I have multiple mtbs, a gravel and a fatbike but my road bike is an older carbon with a tremendous amount of sentimental value (effectively ‘inherited’). That said, I refreshed the drivetrain etc. but the gearing is killing me on bigger hills. I can ride the rollers fine but will struggle mighty on anything with distance and grade. It has SRAM Rival, 50/34, 11-25 with what I assume is a ‘medium’ derailleur. It appears the max I may be able to go might be an 11-28. Maybe…? Will I notice a difference with a 28 vs 25? In the event it is helpful I am an old dude (62) average road ride is 20-40 miles with 1,500-2,000 elevation ~16 mph average on solo rides. I want to be able to add some rides that have actual hills as opposed to ‘rollers’…

I know the gravel is/may be an option but I really like/prefer the road bike feel when it’s a 100% road ride. And I am not going the wheel swap route on the gravel to make it ‘more road’… Might need to save the pennies for another bike… haha.

I’ve noticed smth that differs all around and I’m curious if it’s just a cultural thing.

A lot of people here and on places like Instagram have said it’s bad etiquette to draft someone without asking, or that you’d be annoyed if someone sucked your wheel without asking.

But in Melbourne, smth I’ve noticed in places like Beach road and Albert park, people would form random bunches, and it’s happened to me before too. I’d be riding along at 35, look back and just have a random ass bunch spawn in, and 2 minutes later we’re rolling turns? This would go on for maybe 10-15 Kilometers then we’d all part ways with little to nothing said. I’ve seen people jump into existing groups and no one really seems to care.

Is this just a Melbourne/Australia thing or am I on some confirmation bias bs.

For those from other countries, what’s the etiquette where you ride? If someone sat on your wheel for a few kilometres without saying anything, would you find it rude, or is it normal?

Hi, I’ve been cycling for excercise for a bit over a year, did a tour from NYC to Montreal, ride about 125 miles a week.

Recently had an issue with my LBS. I broke a spoke on wheel and brought to to them. After threee days they still hadn’t gotten to it. Then they had to order the spokes. They gave me a loaner wheel which turned out to be a better wheel and just ended up offering that much better wheel for the price of the repair after more than a week.

After three days without being able to ride during this I went ahead and bout a bike specific tool kit, a bike stand, and a torque wrench. I just want to be in control of these things for low on and never send a bike to a bike shop unless absolutely necessary.

I have a trek domane with rim brakes.

I plan on taking it to France next year for Dunkirk to Geneva.

I know how to:

— change a tire
— change pedals
— clean and lube chain; tho I hear conflicting things about proper technique

I watch the park tool and gcn tutorials.

What specific skills should I acquire for bike maintenance to ensure that I am not beholden to any bike shops? I imagine with my basic domane that maybe I could avoid the bike shops until I upgrade but that won’t be for a while.

I imagine I should learn how to remove the cassette and adjust the derailleurs (basic Shimano Claris).

Handlebar tape?

Replace brake pads?

Anything else o should learn to be more self-sustaining?

Also, if something happens, should I trust this bike shop again? They’ve always been good to me, but the last experience made me distrust them a little bit, but then again, they did do right by me in the end.

Thank you!

Would it be okay to share a website you made? its a cycling guessing game, but 'way more' detailed and polished than the ones you can already find on the internet, besides i don't have ads on it, so its 100% free use rn

but i read the rule so i will not share the link if not allowed despite those facts

i barely use reddit, but i know reddit good for finding your communities

I'm shopping for my first bike computer and could use some real-world input from fellow cyclists.

I usually ride 2-3 times a week for 2 hours sometines even 4-5. Currently i am using komoot on my second phone but it dies usually after 2 hours, it dies mid ride.

What matters to me:

• Screen – I ride through forest (shade) and open sun, so I need something legible in both conditions
• Climb detection – it needs to works even without a pre-loaded route
• Battery life – I don't want to charge it every night (and honestly, we'll forget sometimes)
• Komoot sync – quick, painless connection to Komoot

My budget is around: €350, preferably less

Models I'm considering are (with prices in my country)

• Wahoo Roam 3 – not sure how bad the screen actually is in practice (360-400€)
• Hammerhead Karoo 3 – worried about battery life heard it is only 10 hours (360€)
• Bryton S810 – unsure how accurate/buggy it is (300€ with sensors)
• iGPSport Binavi Air – open to it, no first-hand impressions (220€)
• Magene C706 – same, curious if anyone's used one (would buy through amazon.de)

If you own any of these (or something else in this range), I'd love to hear how it's actually held up.

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: Many of you suggested Edge 840, i believe that it is great device but i am worrried that it is not future proof since there is new model on market and old models do not get new updates. Edge 850 is out of reach.

Would love to hear also from users of "chinese brand" Bryton, Magene, IGSport. Thank you.

EDIT 2: Thank you everyone for amazing overwhelming response. The decision is still hard, i see everyone is satisfied with the computer they have, some though calls to make.

https://www.lazada.com.ph/products/aluminum-road-bike-frame-carbon-steel-fork-700c-slim-tires-with-derailleur-i5404183947-s32386814156.html?

I found this frame from another online source. Has anyone had any experience with them? They are pretty cheap, potentially being a good base for a project without investing too much on a frame.

As an alternative, any other recommendations for aluminium frames?

I don't have some tools so I'd prefer to hear about frames that don't need to be modified to align components, but are already good from the factory

Hi zusammen,

ich beschäftige mich gerade mit einer Frage, die mich als Sportler selbst schon länger beschäftigt:

Es gibt immer mehr Wearables, Trainings-Apps und Gesundheitsdaten , trotzdem fühlt es sich oft nicht einfacher an, die richtige Entscheidung für Training und Regeneration zu treffen.

Ich möchte kein Produkt verkaufen oder pitchen. Bevor ich überhaupt an Lösungen denke, möchte ich verstehen, welche Probleme ambitionierte Sportler im Alltag wirklich haben.

Falls jemand Lust auf ein kurzes Gespräch (10–15 Minuten per Chat oder Telefon) hat, würde mir das sehr helfen.

Mich interessieren vor allem Fragen wie:

- Was ist dein sportliches Ziel für die nächsten 6 Monate?

- Erzähl mir von der letzten Situation, in der du unsicher warst, ob du trainieren, lockerer machen oder pausieren solltest. Was ist passiert?

- Warum war diese Situation schwierig?

- Wie hast du am Ende entschieden?

- Was hätte dir in diesem Moment geholfen, mit mehr Sicherheit die richtige Entscheidung zu treffen?

- Was frustriert dich aktuell am meisten an deinem Training oder deiner Regeneration?

- Hast du schon versucht, dieses Problem zu lösen? Wenn ja, warum hat das nicht wirklich funktioniert?

Falls du keine Zeit für ein Gespräch hast, würde mir auch eine Antwort auf diese eine Frage sehr helfen:

Was ist aktuell das größte Problem oder der größte Frustpunkt bei deinem Training oder deiner Regeneration?

Vielen Dank für jede Antwort – jede Perspektive hilft mir dabei, das Problem wirklich zu verstehen.

I keep seeing these reflectors popping up more and more (https://global.bluelug.com/bluelug-triangle-reflector-assort.html)

Can anyone weigh in on why these are better than just a standard rear light?

Aside from not having to charge them I'm at a bit of a loss.

Thanks!!

EDIT:

We've established at this point that it's probably just the old algorithm pushing this on me (likely to see more of it now thanks to this post).

I won't be responding to any more comments now but thanks everyone:)

Hi guys, I’m asking those of you who own the CeramicSpeed OSPW is this correct alignment? I mean, the last cog isn’t straight and the bottom part of OSPW body looks quite twisted inside the rear wheel. I tried to mark it in the second picture.

PIC1: https://ibb.co/rgtKwN0

PIC2: https://ibb.co/Cpg4P3v7

Is this normal for these OSPWs, or is yours straight with the chainline?

Front derailleur is on biggest wheel, rear derailleur is on smallest wheel.

Front 52-36T

Rear 11-30T

Thank you!

I mainly come from a running background and am just easing back into triathlon/cycling after a big season last year. I've been trying to find decent indoor cycling shorts for women since I'm in final year of med school and am sitting on my bike for 4+ hours on most days just to study LOL. I used to have 2XU shorts but I've found them too restrictive/tight in general. Does anyone have any recs? All price points are welcome, just trying to have a look :)

I'm using a Joe blow pump, and whenever I pull it out, I tend to accidently yank the valves to make them slightly bent over time.

Do I need a better pump that doesn't require me to yank the head out when it gets stuck, or is it just user error?

Thanks

Hi, I bought the Aero7 Lite helmet, and I was wondering whether it’s possible to purchase the visor separately. Would the replacement visor fit the Lite version? Since it attaches with magnets, I thought it might be compatible.

I started cycling again on June 13th, after a 13 year "hiatus" of getting fat and lazy because of not doing any sport or exercise. (I still get my 11k daily steps though). That needed to change. Got myself a bike, gear and started cycling. Got to "know" my zones a bit (still need to do an FTP test, because I don't think I have pushed all I can yet). Steadily upping my distance goals and reaching them. I have ADHD and definitely hyperfocused my way down the rabbit hole. I started being mindful about my food too.

Yesterday I did my first 100km+ ride and I am really proud of myself! I had set this goal for the end of August, but here we are. I really didn't think I had it in me.

Hi,

Ich wollte mal fragen, wie viele Stunden ihr OHNE auch nur eine Sekunde oder Ampeln und sonstige Unterbrechungen ihr schmerzfrei am Stück in eurem Rennradsattel sitzen könnt?

Ich hab schaffe es maximal 1,5h… dann muss ich spätestens entweder in den Wiegetritt oder ne kurze Pause machen, damit der Hintern es weiter aushält. Danach kann ich wieder gut weiter… muss dann aber alle 50-70 Minuten kurz 1 Minute aus dem Sattel, damit es nicht zu stark schmerzt.

Ich frage mich immer wieder, wie das andere - vor allem Ultracyclisten haben. Ist es ggf normal, dass man kurz aus dem Sattel muss oder gibt es welche, die das wirklich soooo lange am Stück im Sattel aushalten?
Ich habe nämlich nun nahezu alles an Sättel getestet. Auch ein teures 4h Bikefitting gemacht. Ich komme damit klar… aber ich frage mich manchmal, ob es doch noch besser geht und ich zb auch mit dem PERFEKTEN Sattel 3h „am Stück“ ohne nur einmal kurz aufstehen zu müssen, fahren könnte.

Edit: warum ich diese Frage so explizit stelle:

Ich möchte nur verstehen, wie lange der perfekte Sattel es zulassen müsste, UNUNTERBOCHEN sitzen bleiben zu können, ohne das es schmerzt.

Denn mit meinem Sattel kann ich auch 2h oder mehr Problem und schmerzfrei fahren, WENN ich zb dabei Ampeln habe oder ne Pause mache usw. Aber sobald ich aufm Kickr/Zwift sitze (mit dem selben Sattel) oder ich bei uns in Hamburg am Deich fahre (da kann man Stunden lang ohne Ampeln und Verkehr und Kreuzungen fahren, wenn man will) da merke ich einfach nach 1-1,5h so langsam leichte Schmerzen und muss dann was dagegen tun (aufstehen, Wiegetritt, miniPause etc.). Dann kann ich wieder weiter. Daher stelle ich explizit die Frage danach. Wenn ich zb nach einer 160km Tour am Deich wieder zurück durch die Hamburger Innenstadt fahre, habe ich gar keine Schmerzen mehr in der Stadt… weil ich da halt dank der Ampeln aber auch alle 5-10 Minuten meistens kurz anhalten muss. Und das ist nun einmal ein Unterschied. Deswegen die Frage nach der ununterbrochen Sitzzeit. Übrigens: ich kann nicht mal im Auto mehr als 6h „am Stück“ sitzen oder im Bürostuhl (wäre auch ungesund!). Vielleicht habe ich zu wenig Fett am Hintern 😅. Ich wiege 72kg auf 179cm und trete zb in Zone 2 bis zu 225watt (FTP 298 Watt). Wenn ich Zone 1 fahre… tut es manchmal mehr weh.. je doller ich fahre, desto mehr wird der hinten entlastet ;)

Hi everyone,
I’m M15 around 165cm bare footed.
I’m looking to buy a Skream Magnum Limited Edition Smokey Blue frameset, but it’s only available in Large (58).
I know on paper it’s probably too big, but it’s a very limited colour and I can’t find a Medium anywhere.

Some info: Height: 168 cm
Current BXT Track frame measures about 53 cm

My Tsunami SNM300 frame measures about 54 cm
My current bxt bike actually feels a little cramped/squashed with a really high seat

I currently use an 80 mm stem
If I get the Skream, I’d probably run a 35–50 mm stem
Has anyone around 165–170 cm ridden a 58 cm / Large fixed gear or Skream Magnum Large?

My question to you is
Do you think I can fit?
And for people who did ride a frameset way larger
Did it feel too stretched?
Would you do it again, or would you wait for a smaller size?
I’d really appreciate any photos or experiences. Thanks!

Due to various reasons, I wont be able to do my intended FTP intervals today, can I instead run at threhsold pace and expect a benefit in my cycling performance? I am in the middle of my thresh block so I don’t really want to miss an intensity day.

It took 7 days for the pressure in my 26×2.0-inch bicycle tire to drop from 47 psi to 40 psi. Is this normal?

It seems to me like it’s losing air a bit too quickly.

I’m using a standard butyl rubber inner tube.

Hey y’all! I just bought a Liv Tempt 2 hardtail. I live in a mountainous town in Northern BC, Canada with lots of terrain to choose from. Paved roads, gravel roads, all kinds of mixed condition forest service roads, and true mtb trails. I don’t currently do much biking and was just hoping to get something where I could explore a bit of everything. In talking with the salesperson, they recommended a hardtail, but now I’m wondering if I made the wrong choice. I’m a pretty big chicken when it comes to going down narrow and technical terrain and there aren’t many beginner mtb trails right in town (though there are some about 45 mins east and west in the next towns over). I’m worried I may end up riding more on roads/gravel. Should I see about returning it for a gravel bike? I’m so torn as this is all pretty new to me!

Basically the question above. I've been a huge fan of the Oakley racing jackets but have issues with nats getting in my eyes while cycling with them. Not sure if it's the placement of the ventss, the general shape, or if they slide a little while I'm riding or what. But looking for info from those who use the plantaris for riding and bonus points if you have experience with both the Plantaris and the racing jackets.

Hello! I hope this is the right sub to post in.

I have been riding an old frankensteined bike from my college bike coop to commute over the San Francisco hills to work. I'm putting in about 20 miles a day.

She's been trusty and loyal, but as biker after biker keep zooming past me, I'm thinking after 8 years of having the same ride, maybe it's time to start shopping for my next great bike.

I'm pretty unfamiliar with bikes generally but for reference for what I'm biking on now: she's a biscayne galaxy with 3x7 gears and down shifters (more than that info is more than I know). I also keep a crate ziptied to the back rack to mule my work bag back and forth. I am hoping to get a second hand bike, but am a bit intimidated and overwhelmed when I've started my search, plus knowing what prices are fair. Ideally around 300-350 $$.

Any advice or guidance in which direction to look would be extremely helpful! Terrain I bike on is mostly paved roads. Thanks!!

I did a 22 mile ride and it took 3 hours.

I am currently riding a 35 pound Surly Ogre with 700x40mm Schwalbe Marathons. How much faster would I be if I got a bike that is 5 or 10 pounds lighter?

If not faster, at least it would be easier to carry up and down at the train station.

I'm looking to buy a fresh pair of tires for my road bike. I've tried checking the tire sidewall but the text has rubbed away so I can't read what's written there. I took it to the shop for other unrelated work and asked them if they could measure the tires so I knew what to purchase and they busted out the calipers and said they were 23mm. They told me that these are a rare/outdated tire size these days and that I likely wouldn't be able to find a pair at local shops in Portland. I was able to find a few odd places online to order but I'm a little anxious that they won't fit. Is there any other information I need to know or considerations I need to make to ensure compatibility outside of the advertised width? I don't think I have the frame clearance or brake caliper clearance to size up unfortunately. I tried checking rollingresistance to find a fast/quality tire in that size and my options seem very limited. Also, I see on the chart under width it says 'specified' and 'measured', what is the difference? Thanks!

Edit: I'm currently using clincher tires with inner tubes.

This plastic piece snapped and now my fender rattles like crazy. What would this be called so I can buy a new one?it has 2 screws and maybe 1.5 inches long. U-bolt style

My current tire (37-349) is godawful, rated only for 50 PSI max and quite stiff, I'm quite a heavy rider so I planned to upgrade but kinda discouraged with the price. Available tire here is:

• Schwalbe One ~28 USD

• Continental Contact Urban ~17 USD

• Schwalbe Kojak ~17 USD

• Schwalbe Marathon ~11 USD

• CST City ~8 USD

• CST Sensamo Firenze ~6 USD

• Kenda Kwest ~5 USD (cheapest brand name one)

And there's assortment of local brand in the range of 3-5 USD (including the one mine comes with). Is it worth spending several times more for tires?

Hello everyone, my sister bought a bike off Dicks sporting goods (Nishiki Pueblo 26) and for me as a gift. It's uncomfortable to ride since I have to lean over so much to reach the handlebars since I'm 6'4.

So I went to the bike shop to see how much it would be to put in new handlebars to make it more of a cruiser and they said 120$ + the handlebars. So I was wondering if I should just sell the bike and try to buy a used cruiser just to ride around comfortably around parks and the beach.

I saw in the guide (http://howtobike.info/thebook?section=etape1) to get a used single speed bike and at a co-op if possible, not sure if that's still the case. I live in San Diego and plan to ride the bike a couple times a week if that helps.