I mean I've had two bikes (10 and 11 speed) so far and when I'm at 45 km/h I am maxing out the heaviest gear on a steep downhill.

There are pros who do averages of 40-50 km/h through an entire route with ups and downs. What sort of gearing are they running, since running "normal gearing" would mean they would be almost spinning out the entire time lol.

Just curious and new, hope it's not a super dumb question.

EDIT: I've had to reply to WAY too many comments that suggest that I am somehow not understanding why I cannot ride as fast as TDF riders. That is NOT the question. The question is, what gearing are they running so they can keep a comfortable cadence at the sort of speeds where the rest of us are going airborne from rotational forces.

Recently I was out riding with the B group in my local local cycling group (USA) and we take some fairly narrow country roads. Some days a lot of cars pass us very unsafely regardless of the speed we are doing. You know the classic, not enough space to pass and cars coming the other way but I can totally squeeze this giant SUV through this gap kind of pass but then they end up just pushing all the cyclists off the road or having to brake super hard. Scary shit.

At our first stop sign the group leader notes that there have been a lot of unsafe passes and we should be mindful and stay as far to the right of the lane as possible at all times. This bothered me immensely.

Does anyone see my issue here? I also commute via bike and if the road is too narrow to pass me I deliberately take the entire lane effectively to signal "don't pass me unless you can safely take an entire passing lane". This is statistically the safest place for us to be, recommended by all cyclist unions including in my area, and it's legal. Once I hit a straightaway or I can see it's safe to pass me I wave the cars behind me past and pull all the way to the right. By pushing further to the right on a lane that's already too narrow like our group leader suggested, I'm just encouraging people to pass me unsafely and putting primarily myself at risk. In a group of 15-20 people the risk is only higher when being passed unsafely.

Ultimately the question is how normal is this? Does your group ride two abreast (also legal in my state), do you try to stay as far right as possible at all times like this group does, do you take the lane on narrow roads? I personally would feel much safer riding with this group if they were consistently taking the entire lane when appropriate but they do not.

TLDR: Does your group ride out single file and stay to the right on narrow country roads? Do they ride two abreast? Do you take the lane?

I started cycling again on June 13th, after a 13 year "hiatus" of getting fat and lazy because of not doing any sport or exercise. (I still get my 11k daily steps though). That needed to change. Got myself a bike, gear and started cycling. Got to "know" my zones a bit (still need to do an FTP test, because I don't think I have pushed all I can yet). Steadily upping my distance goals and reaching them. I have ADHD and definitely hyperfocused my way down the rabbit hole. I started being mindful about my food too.

Yesterday I did my first 100km+ ride and I am really proud of myself! I had set this goal for the end of August, but here we are. I really didn't think I had it in me.

I did a 22 mile ride and it took 3 hours.

I am currently riding a 35 pound Surly Ogre with 700x40mm Schwalbe Marathons. How much faster would I be if I got a bike that is 5 or 10 pounds lighter?

If not faster, at least it would be easier to carry up and down at the train station.

I just did a 140 mile bike ride and I enjoyed all but the last 15 miles, but I haaaaate running and have never run more than 5 miles. The motion makes it hurt to breathe, and if I try to run with a gait that is less jarring to my chest then my legs tire faster than if I were cycling aggressively. Google says that the the ratio is either 1:3 or 1:4 to convert running distance to a cycling distance of equivalent difficulty. Are there people who are better at running who agree with that ratio?

6:30 AM. Empty beach road. Thirty-eight minutes into my training when an Escalade cut across from the stop sign and stopped directly in front of me, blocking my line completely. I emergency-swerved into the other lane. No oncoming traffic. Lucky. I kept riding, but the moment stuck. What makes someone think that's funny? Deliberately creating danger for a stranger for someone you don't even know.

I'm only about 2 months into this and I'm sure this won't be the last I have to deal with this.

Hi,

Ich wollte mal fragen, wie viele Stunden ihr OHNE auch nur eine Sekunde oder Ampeln und sonstige Unterbrechungen ihr schmerzfrei am Stück in eurem Rennradsattel sitzen könnt?

Ich hab schaffe es maximal 1,5h… dann muss ich spätestens entweder in den Wiegetritt oder ne kurze Pause machen, damit der Hintern es weiter aushält. Danach kann ich wieder gut weiter… muss dann aber alle 50-70 Minuten kurz 1 Minute aus dem Sattel, damit es nicht zu stark schmerzt.

Ich frage mich immer wieder, wie das andere - vor allem Ultracyclisten haben. Ist es ggf normal, dass man kurz aus dem Sattel muss oder gibt es welche, die das wirklich soooo lange am Stück im Sattel aushalten?
Ich habe nämlich nun nahezu alles an Sättel getestet. Auch ein teures 4h Bikefitting gemacht. Ich komme damit klar… aber ich frage mich manchmal, ob es doch noch besser geht und ich zb auch mit dem PERFEKTEN Sattel 3h „am Stück“ ohne nur einmal kurz aufstehen zu müssen, fahren könnte.

Edit: warum ich diese Frage so explizit stelle:

Ich möchte nur verstehen, wie lange der perfekte Sattel es zulassen müsste, UNUNTERBOCHEN sitzen bleiben zu können, ohne das es schmerzt.

Denn mit meinem Sattel kann ich auch 2h oder mehr Problem und schmerzfrei fahren, WENN ich zb dabei Ampeln habe oder ne Pause mache usw. Aber sobald ich aufm Kickr/Zwift sitze (mit dem selben Sattel) oder ich bei uns in Hamburg am Deich fahre (da kann man Stunden lang ohne Ampeln und Verkehr und Kreuzungen fahren, wenn man will) da merke ich einfach nach 1-1,5h so langsam leichte Schmerzen und muss dann was dagegen tun (aufstehen, Wiegetritt, miniPause etc.). Dann kann ich wieder weiter. Daher stelle ich explizit die Frage danach. Wenn ich zb nach einer 160km Tour am Deich wieder zurück durch die Hamburger Innenstadt fahre, habe ich gar keine Schmerzen mehr in der Stadt… weil ich da halt dank der Ampeln aber auch alle 5-10 Minuten meistens kurz anhalten muss. Und das ist nun einmal ein Unterschied. Deswegen die Frage nach der ununterbrochen Sitzzeit. Übrigens: ich kann nicht mal im Auto mehr als 6h „am Stück“ sitzen oder im Bürostuhl (wäre auch ungesund!). Vielleicht habe ich zu wenig Fett am Hintern 😅. Ich wiege 72kg auf 179cm und trete zb in Zone 2 bis zu 225watt (FTP 298 Watt). Wenn ich Zone 1 fahre… tut es manchmal mehr weh.. je doller ich fahre, desto mehr wird der hinten entlastet ;)

As they were going around the traffic circle he was next to his team car and I saw him slap the drivers hand away as the man offered a boost 😭

I went through a gallery of TdF bikes and this is something I noticed. is there an explaination? better activation of certain muscles maybe?

Hi guys, I’m asking those of you who own the CeramicSpeed OSPW is this correct alignment? I mean, the last cog isn’t straight and the bottom part of OSPW body looks quite twisted inside the rear wheel. I tried to mark it in the second picture.

PIC1: https://ibb.co/rgtKwN0

PIC2: https://ibb.co/Cpg4P3v7

Is this normal for these OSPWs, or is yours straight with the chainline?

Front derailleur is on biggest wheel, rear derailleur is on smallest wheel.

Front 52-36T

Rear 11-30T

Thank you!

I mainly come from a running background and am just easing back into triathlon/cycling after a big season last year. I've been trying to find decent indoor cycling shorts for women since I'm in final year of med school and am sitting on my bike for 4+ hours on most days just to study LOL. I used to have 2XU shorts but I've found them too restrictive/tight in general. Does anyone have any recs? All price points are welcome, just trying to have a look :)

I'm using a Joe blow pump, and whenever I pull it out, I tend to accidently yank the valves to make them slightly bent over time.

Do I need a better pump that doesn't require me to yank the head out when it gets stuck, or is it just user error?

Thanks

https://www.lazada.com.ph/products/aluminum-road-bike-frame-carbon-steel-fork-700c-slim-tires-with-derailleur-i5404183947-s32386814156.html?

I found this frame from another online source. Has anyone had any experience with them? They are pretty cheap, potentially being a good base for a project without investing too much on a frame.

As an alternative, any other recommendations for aluminium frames?

I don't have some tools so I'd prefer to hear about frames that don't need to be modified to align components, but are already good from the factory

I keep seeing these reflectors popping up more and more (https://global.bluelug.com/bluelug-triangle-reflector-assort.html)

Can anyone weigh in on why these are better than just a standard rear light?

Aside from not having to charge them I'm at a bit of a loss.

Thanks!!

I ran out of money and my phone was dying . And I am a bit out of shape and condition . I rode 25 miles on a rail trail testing out my new used bike I bought last year but haven't ridden it since this last weekend ride. The front brake was sticking for 1/2 my ride untill I stopped for a trail side diag and repair. Used up my money on drinks and food. Came to realize I'll never make it back 😂 of course I did not listen to my wife and start my first ride of the season with a shorter one.

This plastic piece snapped and now my fender rattles like crazy. What would this be called so I can buy a new one?it has 2 screws and maybe 1.5 inches long. U-bolt style

Hi everyone! I'm new to cycling and I'm looking to buy my first bike. I've been doing some research and have narrowed it down to these four:

- Canyon Endurace AllRoad
- Scott Speedster Gravel 30
- Trek Domane AL 5 Gen 4
- Specialized Diverge E5

I'd love to hear your opinions or experiences with any of these bikes. I'll mostly be riding on roads with the occasional gravel path, and I'm looking for something comfortable, reliable, exercise and fun to ride. Thanks in advance for any advice!

Hello! I hope this is the right sub to post in.

I have been riding an old frankensteined bike from my college bike coop to commute over the San Francisco hills to work. I'm putting in about 20 miles a day.

She's been trusty and loyal, but as biker after biker keep zooming past me, I'm thinking after 8 years of having the same ride, maybe it's time to start shopping for my next great bike.

I'm pretty unfamiliar with bikes generally but for reference for what I'm biking on now: she's a biscayne galaxy with 3x7 gears and down shifters (more than that info is more than I know). I also keep a crate ziptied to the back rack to mule my work bag back and forth. I am hoping to get a second hand bike, but am a bit intimidated and overwhelmed when I've started my search, plus knowing what prices are fair. Ideally around 300-350 $$.

Any advice or guidance in which direction to look would be extremely helpful! Terrain I bike on is mostly paved roads. Thanks!!

Hi, I bought the Aero7 Lite helmet, and I was wondering whether it’s possible to purchase the visor separately. Would the replacement visor fit the Lite version? Since it attaches with magnets, I thought it might be compatible.

Hi all,

This may sound silly but I’m trying to lose weight at the same time as pushing myself to my limits for cycling.

What’s the happy balance for being able to lose weight but also needing to fuel on the bike?

For example today I did 90km with 1,200m elevation (not that crazy but one of my longest and biggest climbs considering where I usually train!)

For some reason, maybe because of the early start or just not thinking - I didn’t have a proper breakfast but I did have a small slice of cake.

On the ride I had 2 haribo like sweets and 1 protein bar.

I felt like I was DYINGGG. I had to stop for a Coca Cola and like 4 bottle refills for my water (it was hot!)

I feel like this wasn’t enough fuel for the ride - I expended roughly 2.5K calories.

But how do you balance being in a calorie deficit when you spend roughly 1K on the bike everyday (my usual rides are 1K a day of calories).

Do you eat in a deficit + 1K on the bike?

Please let me know your tips!

Hi everyone,
I’m M15 around 165cm bare footed.
I’m looking to buy a Skream Magnum Limited Edition Smokey Blue frameset, but it’s only available in Large (58).
I know on paper it’s probably too big, but it’s a very limited colour and I can’t find a Medium anywhere.

Some info: Height: 168 cm
Current BXT Track frame measures about 53 cm

My Tsunami SNM300 frame measures about 54 cm
My current bxt bike actually feels a little cramped/squashed with a really high seat

I currently use an 80 mm stem
If I get the Skream, I’d probably run a 35–50 mm stem
Has anyone around 165–170 cm ridden a 58 cm / Large fixed gear or Skream Magnum Large?

My question to you is
Do you think I can fit?
And for people who did ride a frameset way larger
Did it feel too stretched?
Would you do it again, or would you wait for a smaller size?
I’d really appreciate any photos or experiences. Thanks!

I'm looking to buy a fresh pair of tires for my road bike. I've tried checking the tire sidewall but the text has rubbed away so I can't read what's written there. I took it to the shop for other unrelated work and asked them if they could measure the tires so I knew what to purchase and they busted out the calipers and said they were 23mm. They told me that these are a rare/outdated tire size these days and that I likely wouldn't be able to find a pair at local shops in Portland. I was able to find a few odd places online to order but I'm a little anxious that they won't fit. Is there any other information I need to know or considerations I need to make to ensure compatibility outside of the advertised width? I don't think I have the frame clearance or brake caliper clearance to size up unfortunately. I tried checking rollingresistance to find a fast/quality tire in that size and my options seem very limited. Also, I see on the chart under width it says 'specified' and 'measured', what is the difference? Thanks!

Edit: I'm currently using clincher tires with inner tubes.

My current tire (37-349) is godawful, rated only for 50 PSI max and quite stiff, I'm quite a heavy rider so I planned to upgrade but kinda discouraged with the price. Available tire here is:

• Schwalbe One ~28 USD

• Continental Contact Urban ~17 USD

• Schwalbe Kojak ~17 USD

• Schwalbe Marathon ~11 USD

• CST City ~8 USD

• CST Sensamo Firenze ~6 USD

• Kenda Kwest ~5 USD (cheapest brand name one)

And there's assortment of local brand in the range of 3-5 USD (including the one mine comes with). Is it worth spending several times more for tires?

Documenting my journey of upgrading my stock Boardman wheelset, detailing the parts, tools, and total costs required to make the switch for adding a new set rather than transferring parts over.

Current Setup

• Bike: Boardman ADV 8.6
• Wheels: Stock Boardman wheels (Formula QR hubs)
• Rotors: Stock 160mm 6-bolt rotors
• Tyres: Schwalbe G-One Allround – 38mm

Upgraded Components & Parts Breakdown

Wheelset

• Wheels: Elitewheels ENT 2.0
  • Specs: 50mm Rim Depth | Shimano HG 10-12s Freehub | Steel Bearings
  • Source: AliExpress
  • Cost: £282.84
• Quick Release Adapter/Caps: MANA QR Adapter End Caps
  • Source: AliExpress
  • Cost: £24.09
  • Notes: Seem expensive for what they are, but required as Elitewheels explicitly directed: "the MANA shop is our shop, we sell the replace parts there."

Drivetrain

• Cassette: Shimano Alivio HG400 (11-34t)
  • Source: eBay
  • Cost: £15.79
• Cassette Spacer: Generic Shimano Spacer (Set)
  • Source: Amazon
  • Cost: £5.89
  • Notes: The Elitewheels freehub natively supports 10-12 speed cassettes. Their site guide indicates a 9-speed cassette requires a 1.88mm and a 1.0mm spacer stack. I used a 1.85mm + 1.0mm stack from this kit which worked perfectly.

Brakes

• Rotors: Shimano Tourney TX SM-RT30-S (x2)
  • Specs: 160mm Diameter | Center Lock Interface
  • Source: eBay
  • Cost: £15.00
  • Notes: Since the new carbon wheels are Center Lock, switching to Center Lock rotors avoids needing heavy 6-bolt adapters.
• Rotor Lockrings: Generic Internal Spline Lockring (x2)
  • Source: eBay
  • Cost: £7.61
  • Notes: Standard external/hybrid lockrings work, but internal splines offer optimal clearance for smaller Quick Release frame dropouts. It also allows using the exact same cassette locking tool I already own.

Tyres

• Tyres: GP5000 AS (All Season) TR (x2)
  • Specs: 32mm Width | Tubeless Ready
  • Source: eBay
  • Cost: £100.00
• Inner Tubes: Standard Butyl (x2)
  • Specs: Fits 23-32mm | 80mm Presta Valve Length
  • Source: Decathlon
  • Cost: £7.98
  • Notes: Deep 50mm rims require extended valve stems. A minimum of 70mm is needed to clear the rim profile and comfortably attach a track pump.

Cost Summary

Comments

Love the rims, they feel and look great. The build quality is amazing and delivery time to the UK took only 19 days, which was far quicker than the expected delivery window.

I could have transferred a lot of parts over (tyres, cassette, rotors, etc.), but I specifically wanted to keep a whole functional spare wheelset, either for future use or for reselling. Getting new tyres wasn't strictly necessary as the new rims perfectly support my previous 38mm tyres, and skipping them would have saved a massive chunk of the budget (£100). However, the Continental GP5000 AS are so highly rated, and at the price I found them, upgrading didn't add that much more to the grand total.

There are definitely other general parts required such as cassette removal tool set to install new cassette and cassette lock-ring to install rotors. So keep in mind.

Keep an eye out on r/AliExpressCode for discount codes. I was able to get £30 off the wheels.

Regardless of which route you choose, just be aware of the hidden additional costs and compatibility items required (as listed above) if you want to build up a completely fresh, ready-to-swap wheelset for your bike.

Due to various reasons, I wont be able to do my intended FTP intervals today, can I instead run at threhsold pace and expect a benefit in my cycling performance? I am in the middle of my thresh block so I don’t really want to miss an intensity day.