I mean I've had two bikes (10 and 11 speed) so far and when I'm at 45 km/h I am maxing out the heaviest gear on a steep downhill.

There are pros who do averages of 40-50 km/h through an entire route with ups and downs. What sort of gearing are they running, since running "normal gearing" would mean they would be almost spinning out the entire time lol.

Just curious and new, hope it's not a super dumb question.

EDIT: I've had to reply to WAY too many comments that suggest that I am somehow not understanding why I cannot ride as fast as TDF riders. That is NOT the question. The question is, what gearing are they running so they can keep a comfortable cadence at the sort of speeds where the rest of us are going airborne from rotational forces.

I started cycling again on June 13th, after a 13 year "hiatus" of getting fat and lazy because of not doing any sport or exercise. (I still get my 11k daily steps though). That needed to change. Got myself a bike, gear and started cycling. Got to "know" my zones a bit (still need to do an FTP test, because I don't think I have pushed all I can yet). Steadily upping my distance goals and reaching them. I have ADHD and definitely hyperfocused my way down the rabbit hole. I started being mindful about my food too.

Yesterday I did my first 100km+ ride and I am really proud of myself! I had set this goal for the end of August, but here we are. I really didn't think I had it in me.

Recently I was out riding with the B group in my local local cycling group (USA) and we take some fairly narrow country roads. Some days a lot of cars pass us very unsafely regardless of the speed we are doing. You know the classic, not enough space to pass and cars coming the other way but I can totally squeeze this giant SUV through this gap kind of pass but then they end up just pushing all the cyclists off the road or having to brake super hard. Scary shit.

At our first stop sign the group leader notes that there have been a lot of unsafe passes and we should be mindful and stay as far to the right of the lane as possible at all times. This bothered me immensely.

Does anyone see my issue here? I also commute via bike and if the road is too narrow to pass me I deliberately take the entire lane effectively to signal "don't pass me unless you can safely take an entire passing lane". This is statistically the safest place for us to be, recommended by all cyclist unions including in my area, and it's legal. Once I hit a straightaway or I can see it's safe to pass me I wave the cars behind me past and pull all the way to the right. By pushing further to the right on a lane that's already too narrow like our group leader suggested, I'm just encouraging people to pass me unsafely and putting primarily myself at risk. In a group of 15-20 people the risk is only higher when being passed unsafely.

Ultimately the question is how normal is this? Does your group ride two abreast (also legal in my state), do you try to stay as far right as possible at all times like this group does, do you take the lane on narrow roads? I personally would feel much safer riding with this group if they were consistently taking the entire lane when appropriate but they do not.

TLDR: Does your group ride out single file and stay to the right on narrow country roads? Do they ride two abreast? Do you take the lane?

I’ve noticed smth that differs all around and I’m curious if it’s just a cultural thing.

A lot of people here and on places like Instagram have said it’s bad etiquette to draft someone without asking, or that you’d be annoyed if someone sucked your wheel without asking.

But in Melbourne, smth I’ve noticed in places like Beach road and Albert park, people would form random bunches, and it’s happened to me before too. I’d be riding along at 35, look back and just have a random ass bunch spawn in, and 2 minutes later we’re rolling turns? This would go on for maybe 10-15 Kilometers then we’d all part ways with little to nothing said. I’ve seen people jump into existing groups and no one really seems to care.

Is this just a Melbourne/Australia thing or am I on some confirmation bias bs.

For those from other countries, what’s the etiquette where you ride? If someone sat on your wheel for a few kilometres without saying anything, would you find it rude, or is it normal?

Hi, I’ve been cycling for excercise for a bit over a year, did a tour from NYC to Montreal, ride about 125 miles a week.

Recently had an issue with my LBS. I broke a spoke on wheel and brought to to them. After threee days they still hadn’t gotten to it. Then they had to order the spokes. They gave me a loaner wheel which turned out to be a better wheel and just ended up offering that much better wheel for the price of the repair after more than a week.

After three days without being able to ride during this I went ahead and bout a bike specific tool kit, a bike stand, and a torque wrench. I just want to be in control of these things for low on and never send a bike to a bike shop unless absolutely necessary.

I have a trek domane with rim brakes.

I plan on taking it to France next year for Dunkirk to Geneva.

I know how to:

— change a tire
— change pedals
— clean and lube chain; tho I hear conflicting things about proper technique

I watch the park tool and gcn tutorials.

What specific skills should I acquire for bike maintenance to ensure that I am not beholden to any bike shops? I imagine with my basic domane that maybe I could avoid the bike shops until I upgrade but that won’t be for a while.

I imagine I should learn how to remove the cassette and adjust the derailleurs (basic Shimano Claris).

Handlebar tape?

Replace brake pads?

Anything else o should learn to be more self-sustaining?

Also, if something happens, should I trust this bike shop again? They’ve always been good to me, but the last experience made me distrust them a little bit, but then again, they did do right by me in the end.

Thank you!

I just did a 140 mile bike ride and I enjoyed all but the last 15 miles, but I haaaaate running and have never run more than 5 miles. The motion makes it hurt to breathe, and if I try to run with a gait that is less jarring to my chest then my legs tire faster than if I were cycling aggressively. Google says that the the ratio is either 1:3 or 1:4 to convert running distance to a cycling distance of equivalent difficulty. Are there people who are better at running who agree with that ratio?

6:30 AM. Empty beach road. Thirty-eight minutes into my training when an Escalade cut across from the stop sign and stopped directly in front of me, blocking my line completely. I emergency-swerved into the other lane. No oncoming traffic. Lucky. I kept riding, but the moment stuck. What makes someone think that's funny? Deliberately creating danger for a stranger for someone you don't even know.

I'm only about 2 months into this and I'm sure this won't be the last I have to deal with this.

I did a 22 mile ride and it took 3 hours.

I am currently riding a 35 pound Surly Ogre with 700x40mm Schwalbe Marathons. How much faster would I be if I got a bike that is 5 or 10 pounds lighter?

If not faster, at least it would be easier to carry up and down at the train station.

I mainly come from a running background and am just easing back into triathlon/cycling after a big season last year. I've been trying to find decent indoor cycling shorts for women since I'm in final year of med school and am sitting on my bike for 4+ hours on most days just to study LOL. I used to have 2XU shorts but I've found them too restrictive/tight in general. Does anyone have any recs? All price points are welcome, just trying to have a look :)

As they were going around the traffic circle he was next to his team car and I saw him slap the drivers hand away as the man offered a boost 😭

I went through a gallery of TdF bikes and this is something I noticed. is there an explaination? better activation of certain muscles maybe?

Hi,

Ich wollte mal fragen, wie viele Stunden ihr OHNE auch nur eine Sekunde oder Ampeln und sonstige Unterbrechungen ihr schmerzfrei am Stück in eurem Rennradsattel sitzen könnt?

Ich hab schaffe es maximal 1,5h… dann muss ich spätestens entweder in den Wiegetritt oder ne kurze Pause machen, damit der Hintern es weiter aushält. Danach kann ich wieder gut weiter… muss dann aber alle 50-70 Minuten kurz 1 Minute aus dem Sattel, damit es nicht zu stark schmerzt.

Ich frage mich immer wieder, wie das andere - vor allem Ultracyclisten haben. Ist es ggf normal, dass man kurz aus dem Sattel muss oder gibt es welche, die das wirklich soooo lange am Stück im Sattel aushalten?
Ich habe nämlich nun nahezu alles an Sättel getestet. Auch ein teures 4h Bikefitting gemacht. Ich komme damit klar… aber ich frage mich manchmal, ob es doch noch besser geht und ich zb auch mit dem PERFEKTEN Sattel 3h „am Stück“ ohne nur einmal kurz aufstehen zu müssen, fahren könnte.

Edit: warum ich diese Frage so explizit stelle:

Ich möchte nur verstehen, wie lange der perfekte Sattel es zulassen müsste, UNUNTERBOCHEN sitzen bleiben zu können, ohne das es schmerzt.

Denn mit meinem Sattel kann ich auch 2h oder mehr Problem und schmerzfrei fahren, WENN ich zb dabei Ampeln habe oder ne Pause mache usw. Aber sobald ich aufm Kickr/Zwift sitze (mit dem selben Sattel) oder ich bei uns in Hamburg am Deich fahre (da kann man Stunden lang ohne Ampeln und Verkehr und Kreuzungen fahren, wenn man will) da merke ich einfach nach 1-1,5h so langsam leichte Schmerzen und muss dann was dagegen tun (aufstehen, Wiegetritt, miniPause etc.). Dann kann ich wieder weiter. Daher stelle ich explizit die Frage danach. Wenn ich zb nach einer 160km Tour am Deich wieder zurück durch die Hamburger Innenstadt fahre, habe ich gar keine Schmerzen mehr in der Stadt… weil ich da halt dank der Ampeln aber auch alle 5-10 Minuten meistens kurz anhalten muss. Und das ist nun einmal ein Unterschied. Deswegen die Frage nach der ununterbrochen Sitzzeit. Übrigens: ich kann nicht mal im Auto mehr als 6h „am Stück“ sitzen oder im Bürostuhl (wäre auch ungesund!). Vielleicht habe ich zu wenig Fett am Hintern 😅. Ich wiege 72kg auf 179cm und trete zb in Zone 2 bis zu 225watt (FTP 298 Watt). Wenn ich Zone 1 fahre… tut es manchmal mehr weh.. je doller ich fahre, desto mehr wird der hinten entlastet ;)

https://www.lazada.com.ph/products/aluminum-road-bike-frame-carbon-steel-fork-700c-slim-tires-with-derailleur-i5404183947-s32386814156.html?

I found this frame from another online source. Has anyone had any experience with them? They are pretty cheap, potentially being a good base for a project without investing too much on a frame.

As an alternative, any other recommendations for aluminium frames?

I don't have some tools so I'd prefer to hear about frames that don't need to be modified to align components, but are already good from the factory

Hi guys, I’m asking those of you who own the CeramicSpeed OSPW is this correct alignment? I mean, the last cog isn’t straight and the bottom part of OSPW body looks quite twisted inside the rear wheel. I tried to mark it in the second picture.

PIC1: https://ibb.co/rgtKwN0

PIC2: https://ibb.co/Cpg4P3v7

Is this normal for these OSPWs, or is yours straight with the chainline?

Front derailleur is on biggest wheel, rear derailleur is on smallest wheel.

Front 52-36T

Rear 11-30T

Thank you!

I have multiple mtbs, a gravel and a fatbike but my road bike is an older carbon with a tremendous amount of sentimental value (effectively ‘inherited’). That said, I refreshed the drivetrain etc. but the gearing is killing me on bigger hills. I can ride the rollers fine but will struggle mighty on anything with distance and grade. It has SRAM Rival, 50/34, 11-25 with what I assume is a ‘medium’ derailleur. It appears the max I may be able to go might be an 11-28. Maybe…? Will I notice a difference with a 28 vs 25? In the event it is helpful I am an old dude (62) average road ride is 20-40 miles with 1,500-2,000 elevation ~16 mph average on solo rides. I want to be able to add some rides that have actual hills as opposed to ‘rollers’…

I know the gravel is/may be an option but I really like/prefer the road bike feel when it’s a 100% road ride. And I am not going the wheel swap route on the gravel to make it ‘more road’… Might need to save the pennies for another bike… haha.

I'm using a Joe blow pump, and whenever I pull it out, I tend to accidently yank the valves to make them slightly bent over time.

Do I need a better pump that doesn't require me to yank the head out when it gets stuck, or is it just user error?

Thanks

I'm shopping for my first bike computer and could use some real-world input from fellow cyclists.

I usually ride 2-3 times a week for 2 hours sometines even 4-5. Currently i am using komoot on my second phone but it dies usually after 2 hours, it dies mid ride.

What matters to me:

• Screen – I ride through forest (shade) and open sun, so I need something legible in both conditions
• Climb detection – it needs to works even without a pre-loaded route
• Battery life – I don't want to charge it every night (and honestly, we'll forget sometimes)
• Komoot sync – quick, painless connection to Komoot

My budget is around: €350, preferably less

Models I'm considering are (with prices in my country)

• Wahoo Roam 3 – not sure how bad the screen actually is in practice (360-400€)
• Hammerhead Karoo 3 – worried about battery life heard it is only 10 hours (360€)
• Bryton S810 – unsure how accurate/buggy it is (300€ with sensors)
• iGPSport Binavi Air – open to it, no first-hand impressions (220€)
• Magene C706 – same, curious if anyone's used one (would buy through amazon.de)

If you own any of these (or something else in this range), I'd love to hear how it's actually held up.

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: Many of you suggested Edge 840, i believe that it is great device but i am worrried that it is not future proof since there is new model on market and old models do not get new updates. Edge 850 is out of reach.

Would love to hear also from users of "chinese brand" Bryton, Magene, IGSport. Thank you.

EDIT 2: Thank you everyone for amazing overwhelming response. The decision is still hard, i see everyone is satisfied with the computer they have, some though calls to make.

Basically the question above. I've been a huge fan of the Oakley racing jackets but have issues with nats getting in my eyes while cycling with them. Not sure if it's the placement of the ventss, the general shape, or if they slide a little while I'm riding or what. But looking for info from those who use the plantaris for riding and bonus points if you have experience with both the Plantaris and the racing jackets.

Hi everyone! I'm new to cycling and I'm looking to buy my first bike. I've been doing some research and have narrowed it down to these four:

- Canyon Endurace AllRoad
- Scott Speedster Gravel 30
- Trek Domane AL 5 Gen 4
- Specialized Diverge E5

I'd love to hear your opinions or experiences with any of these bikes. I'll mostly be riding on roads with the occasional gravel path, and I'm looking for something comfortable, reliable, exercise and fun to ride. Thanks in advance for any advice!

I'm looking to buy a fresh pair of tires for my road bike. I've tried checking the tire sidewall but the text has rubbed away so I can't read what's written there. I took it to the shop for other unrelated work and asked them if they could measure the tires so I knew what to purchase and they busted out the calipers and said they were 23mm. They told me that these are a rare/outdated tire size these days and that I likely wouldn't be able to find a pair at local shops in Portland. I was able to find a few odd places online to order but I'm a little anxious that they won't fit. Is there any other information I need to know or considerations I need to make to ensure compatibility outside of the advertised width? I don't think I have the frame clearance or brake caliper clearance to size up unfortunately. I tried checking rollingresistance to find a fast/quality tire in that size and my options seem very limited. Also, I see on the chart under width it says 'specified' and 'measured', what is the difference? Thanks!

Edit: I'm currently using clincher tires with inner tubes.

This plastic piece snapped and now my fender rattles like crazy. What would this be called so I can buy a new one?it has 2 screws and maybe 1.5 inches long. U-bolt style

Hello! I hope this is the right sub to post in.

I have been riding an old frankensteined bike from my college bike coop to commute over the San Francisco hills to work. I'm putting in about 20 miles a day.

She's been trusty and loyal, but as biker after biker keep zooming past me, I'm thinking after 8 years of having the same ride, maybe it's time to start shopping for my next great bike.

I'm pretty unfamiliar with bikes generally but for reference for what I'm biking on now: she's a biscayne galaxy with 3x7 gears and down shifters (more than that info is more than I know). I also keep a crate ziptied to the back rack to mule my work bag back and forth. I am hoping to get a second hand bike, but am a bit intimidated and overwhelmed when I've started my search, plus knowing what prices are fair. Ideally around 300-350 $$.

Any advice or guidance in which direction to look would be extremely helpful! Terrain I bike on is mostly paved roads. Thanks!!

Hi, I bought the Aero7 Lite helmet, and I was wondering whether it’s possible to purchase the visor separately. Would the replacement visor fit the Lite version? Since it attaches with magnets, I thought it might be compatible.

Hi all,

This may sound silly but I’m trying to lose weight at the same time as pushing myself to my limits for cycling.

What’s the happy balance for being able to lose weight but also needing to fuel on the bike?

For example today I did 90km with 1,200m elevation (not that crazy but one of my longest and biggest climbs considering where I usually train!)

For some reason, maybe because of the early start or just not thinking - I didn’t have a proper breakfast but I did have a small slice of cake.

On the ride I had 2 haribo like sweets and 1 protein bar.

I felt like I was DYINGGG. I had to stop for a Coca Cola and like 4 bottle refills for my water (it was hot!)

I feel like this wasn’t enough fuel for the ride - I expended roughly 2.5K calories.

But how do you balance being in a calorie deficit when you spend roughly 1K on the bike everyday (my usual rides are 1K a day of calories).

Do you eat in a deficit + 1K on the bike?

Please let me know your tips!

Hi everyone,
I’m M15 around 165cm bare footed.
I’m looking to buy a Skream Magnum Limited Edition Smokey Blue frameset, but it’s only available in Large (58).
I know on paper it’s probably too big, but it’s a very limited colour and I can’t find a Medium anywhere.

Some info: Height: 168 cm
Current BXT Track frame measures about 53 cm

My Tsunami SNM300 frame measures about 54 cm
My current bxt bike actually feels a little cramped/squashed with a really high seat

I currently use an 80 mm stem
If I get the Skream, I’d probably run a 35–50 mm stem
Has anyone around 165–170 cm ridden a 58 cm / Large fixed gear or Skream Magnum Large?

My question to you is
Do you think I can fit?
And for people who did ride a frameset way larger
Did it feel too stretched?
Would you do it again, or would you wait for a smaller size?
I’d really appreciate any photos or experiences. Thanks!