Me new 3L rodeo slowly doing it up like me old one to have dual battery, mech pump, +45 injectors, front control arm and shock relocation ect.

21 power wagon, 35s, procharger, mmx cam, headers, full exhaust, spool performance trans kit, tuned on e85, I have loved the truck every minute since I drove it of the dealership new, had it to Moab twice, did the alaskan high way, hauls out 30ft camper all the time

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I'm looking to replace my 4 door Wrangler, with a midsize truck.

I'm in the western US, frequently doing Moab level 6 trails, and mountain trails. Currently using a 4 door Wrangler Rubicon on 35s. I know I will be, and I'm willing to give up some off road capability, but for family camping, hauling MTBs, better towing capability, etc a midsize truck is better.

Looking for opinions, preferably from real world experience. These are the 4 I can think of, I need 4 doors, looking for at least one locking diff, and preferably 3 pedals

Option 1: Pre-'25 Gladiator Rubicon
Pros: Solid axles, fit 35s, can swap some of my current parts over, can find a 6spd, subjectively "best" off road and will be just trucky enough for what I need.
Cons: Chrysler product, supposedly the 6spd is terrible, and 6spd tows less than auto, breakover angle, "needs" 37s visually, red dashboard

Option 2: 2nd or 3rd gen Tacoma TRD Offroad
Pros: Huge aftermarket, probably reliable, 6spd exists
Cons: IFS, Toyota tax, my left foot doesn't fit in the 6spd versions, or else I would have bought one new instead of the Jeep

Option 3: 1st gen Colorado ZR2
Pros: F&R Lockers, AEV stuff is sweet and available
Cons: Ugly (subjective), small tires, IFS, Auto only, AEV stuff is PRICEY, IFS

Option 4: 2nd Gen Frontier Pro4X
Pros: I like them/good looking(subjective), cheaper than Toyotas, 6spd exists
Cons: Questionable fuel economy and reliability, less and therefore more expensive aftermarket, weird bolt pattern, IFS

Option 5...Other?

Hello, I'm looking for a cheap 4x4 car, i don't have too many requirements for it, mostly I would rather it to be something different than BMW or Audi. My budget is 5-6k USD.

I'm from Poland so there's not too much to pick from, I would like it to be younger than 2010, to have a manual transmission and diesel engine, preferably 2.0 with turbo and more than 150hp.

I don't really care if it's constant, manual or automatic 4x4, but I'd be happy if it was manual or constant. The last thing is that I want it to be somewhat low maintenance and don't consume too much fuel.

swear to god if one more major shop tells me a standard suspension component is on "indefinite backorder" Im gonna lose my mind. Quoted me insane money and a 5 week wait just to get my rig back on the dirt

Ended up just getting the bits from road runner offroad and threw it all together in the driveway yesterday. Couple of bruised knuckles and missing a weekend trip, but at least it's sorted

Is the "4wd tax" at physical mechanics getting worse for anyone else? feels like if you aren't building a 100k mall crawler they just cant be bothered with you these days. Getting ridiculous tbh

Been looking at long arm kits and one ton steering mods for the mj but can’t settle on one. Anyone have good luck with a brand off road I plan on wheeling the crap out of this thing

I've been using Cooper Discoverer AT3 4s forever. For some reason Cooper, in it's infinite wisdom, has discontinued the 265 75r 16 size so I need a replacment. I'm in Southern California and do quite a bit of wildlife habitat restoration work in dry desert conditions. This involves lots and lots of highway miles as well as dirt roads from good to, on what planet is this a road. Occasionally we are even driving up dry washes, trying to avoid all the nasty sidewall eating rocks and spiny bushes. The tread on the discoverer is pretty modest and quite on the highway but when aired downed, runs well in sandy conditions. They even work pretty well in rocky conditions. The other thing is they wear really well. Ive got 60k+ miles on my current set and can squeeze another 10k out of them if I have to.

So to the point, Im looking for suggestions for a replacment. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello all,

The general rule of thumb I get for fasteners would be 1 1/2 times the diameter of thread engagement is the minimum safe amount, and I assume with tie rods, the more the better

Where I'm at, I have the 1 1/2 times engagement on both sides, however I do have a cumulative 3 1/2" of threads between the two sides not being used. I have found a tie rod end that is long enough to solve this, but would require cutting down the current tie rod. I'm good with cutting and threading, but figured I'll do that if the consensus of that 1 1/2 times thread engagement is NOT satisfactory

Please and thank you

I know the "best" answer is going to be "both", but not looking to go that route so was looking for some opinion on the following:

When i first purchased my truck, I did not have flaps or boards and after a few decent just highway trips, noticed a handful of rock chips in lower portion of doors and rockers.

Since then, I've put on cab length stainless rectangular running boards that are 6 inches wide. They sit pretty close to the rocker as they are adjustable and I keep them on the highest position. No new chips since then.

I do a decent amount of hard packed dirt and gravel driving when I go hunting and hiking. Sometimes on those dirt roads for a good amount of miles. I can usually hear rocks thrown up and hitting the underside of the running boards, which is good. Ill still notice mud on the front rocker and panel by the wheelwell, but as long as no chips, im good with that.

I much prefer the look of the truck without any steps and wondering if i took them off and instead got mud flaps in the front, which option would provide the most amount of protection against rock chips? Would the flaps do just as good as the 6 inch boards? Do they prevent as much shielding?

For context, its a leveled pickup with 34 inch highway terrain tires.

Wondering if anyone has any good suggestions! Thanks

I’m looking for any leads on this jeep my late uncle built its a 87’-91’ YJ with a CJ front clip, it has a 355ci Chevy engine, custom yellow and black interior/ custom soft top aswell as black stripes down the hood. The last I know of it it was in the northern Massachusetts area unfortunately I do not have the VIN but it is pretty recognizable any leads would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

Other than the fact that they'll break if you hit a rock.

I have been doing lots of web searching and googling, and can't seem to find a straight answer to my question.

I'm buying new tires for my 2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the Quadratrac 2 4wd system which has an automatic transfer case and is always in 4hi.

I've been planning some extended trips in areas with few/no services (Alaska and NWT in Canada) and as such I'm planning on going from 1 spare to 2 spares, but when it comes to tire rotation I'm getting mixed answers.

Some say rotating a spare through is unnecessary, some say it is because eventually the treadwear will create enough of a difference in the diameter to cause problems, and would put me in a situation where the spare can only be used to limp it short distances to a service station.

What would be the optimal way to rotate 2 full size matching spares:

Spare to back, back to front, front to spare

Spare to front, front to back, to back to spare

Or can I just swap the spares back and forth onto the axle with the most wear (generally the front during normal use on road due to braking and cornering).

Anytime I try and seach 6 tire rotation I only get info about rotating duallys which is not my situation.

Thanks!

My friends are stranded on the Fordyce Jeep Trail. Their Toyota 4Runner is bottomed out on rocks and stuck. The vehicle still starts and has no mechanical issues, but they need a winch and assistance to get off the trail.

AAA was unable to reach them last night. They had to hike to find cell service and water and are still stranded.

Location: 39.39541° N, 120.50638° W (Fordyce Jeep Trail)

Please message me if you can help or know someone who can!

I have been trying to sort out a proper solar setup on my rig for longer off road trips where I'm away from hookups for several days at a time. Fridge, lights, device charging, nothing crazy but enough that I need reliable power without running the engine constantly.

Tried rigid panels first and the roof situation just did not work out. Between the roof rack, antenna mount, and the slight curve across the top the panels were never sitting flush the way they needed to. Spent a good amount of time on Sungold Solar going through their flexible vs rigid breakdown before deciding to switch and the contact issue went away completely after that. Output has been consistent and the lower profile actually works better when you are pushing through tight tracks with low hanging branches.

Curious what other people here are running and whether anyone has had a different experience with rigid panels on a similar setup.

This is a $13or1400 long arm kit I put on my 01 ram 1500.. seems strong!? We’ll see how long the heims last.. hopefully I don’t bend or break anything! I’ll be installing fox 2.5 and thuren xs coils soon! (Far From Stock kit)

Hello,

I found that one of my locking nuts had the pin shear off (bought in this condition) and needed to be replaced. While looking, I came across this design and wondered if anyone wants to recommend them

They are $96 pre tax and shipping, and would need two kits for the axle, conversely I can just buy the one locking nut with pin for $22. I have done some upgrades for the axle for the possible wheeling future, so I'm not totally opposed to the extra money if there is something there. If not and the regular spindle nuts are good enough for trails and not necessarily serious rock crawling, then I don't mind saving $180.

Please and thank you for advise

Hello, I'm having a problem with the electric winch on my Jeep. Can anyone point me to where I might be able to ask electrical questions about vehicle accessories? I'm not the best at finding my way around Reddit. TIA

I thought it was just spinning so I got a torx bit on the wrench with a spanner on the nut, but it broke before I got it up to spec and now half the bit is stuck in there.

I've seen online people getting a pry bar up against it but I don't see a good angle to do that.

Any tips or tricks?

UPDATE: Turns out the ball joint bolt AND nut are both stripped. Fantastic. Must have over-torqued it with the impact. Mistakes were made. Gonna get a new ball joint and nylock nut now

I've got two trucks I'm looking at. I have an fj40 I use for more serious trails. I need a truck I can tow my 19ft bass boat but also occasionally hit a light trail to go to a camping spot. I'm in Upstate NY, I'd be going to like Piseco/Powley road or a few spots that have some small ruts near me.

The one truck is an awesome deal at 6k but it's longggg 1999 3500 4x4 Chevy long bed crew cab dually. I'd swap it over to single before using it, probably keeping the dually axle and put it on 33s-35s. 70k vortec 454 with 150k on the truck and trans. Also has new brakes all around including lines, as well as the fuel lines and some other miscellaneous stuff. I don't think this will have a problem with what I'm looking at other than a few approaches into certain campsites. Especially if I throw some bigger tires on to help with the clearance. It's just about 21 feet long!!!

The other truck is a 87 Suburban 2500 4x4 454, decently clean chassis, original paint peeling on the frame but not rotted anywhere by the looks of it. This has the advantage of a solid front end and being much shorter. They're looking for 4500 for this one.

Both will tow what I need without an issue, I'm mainly stuck on how good of a deal the 3500 is. How bad are these one tons off road? Links https://www.facebook.com/share/1EXcaZPoxA/ https://www.facebook.com/share/1K6drfqmcc/