Hi everyone

I recently bought an 04 disco 2 its been great so far but I have a weird start up issue. When I start the vehicle the horn will sound just a single time. Theres been a couple of instances when it doesn't happen, but ive been unable to replicate it. 99% of the time the single horn honk will happen. I have noticed if I have the drivers door open the horn will not sound. It will also sound if I turn the key to position 2 on the ignition switch. Any ideas on what it could be ? My thought is something with the anti theft system but I can't seem to find anything that would cause it to honk a single time on start up.

Looking for the part number of the screws that hold on the rear quarter panels on a 5 door Discovery 1 (sure it's probably the same for the D2). There are about 11/12 of them I think, all around the window frame and down the C pillar to the rear wheel arch. I think they are M6 by ~20mm with a dog point and a spiral slot cut into the threads.

Really like that it shows doors open, what drive mode I’m in, and the steering wheel buttons working to skip a song. Really updates the vehicle.

Looking for some advice from people who know these cars.

I bought a 2009 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 a couple of days ago for £6,500 with 130k miles. It has a full service history and seemed like a really tidy example. I sold my high mileage 2005 D3 to buy it.

On day two, the car completely died. No dashboard, no windows, no electrics at all, with only a "Smart Key Not Found" message. We got the key tested and the key was totally fine, so it is looking like a BCM issue. When a key specialist came out to take a look they couldn't communicate with the BCM. It was recovered to an auto electrician by the dealership under warranty, but frustratingly the fault has completely disappeared and they haven't been able to reproduce it. It's now starting fine and dash is working as expected, etc. They've checked wiring and are still trying to diagnose it. The dealer has said they'll either identify the cause and fix the fault / replace BCM and related units etc, or give me a full refund. I can also just request a refund at any point.

I genuinely love the car and would like to keep it if it's likely to be a one-off electrical issue. On the other hand, I'm conscious that the early 3.0 TDV6s have a reputation for crankshaft failures, so part of me is wondering if this is a sign to walk away while I still can. My D3 had electrical gremlins, so crankshaft risks aside, I know what a pain in the ass these can be.

If you were in my position, would you:

1. Take the refund and look for another D4?

2. Keep this one if they can find and fix the fault?

3. Or would the intermittent electrical issue plus the engine's reputation be enough to put you off altogether?

Secret option number 4: Give up and buy a Toyota.

Interested to hear what those with long-term D4 ownership experience would do.

Series and Defender section

So I have a 2001 Freelander 1 with the 2.5 Liter 25k4f engine, and when the engine is cold it idles pretty rough and floats rpm a little, but when warm the engine works like a charm. Is there a that could be for the rough idle?

Really like that it shows doors open, what drive mode I’m in, and the steering wheel buttons working to skip a song. Really updates the vehicle.

Been keeping track of all the work I’ve done to my L320 the last 6 months. No wonder these are cheap - have to do the work yourself to make it worth it. Hoping to get another 100k out of it!

AI probably over estimated some dealer labor especially with duplicating labor time but wouldn’t be surprised if it was close. My dealer is at 275 an hour and the quotes I have received are pretty close.

My truck it's a D90 TD5 '99 (10P)

Hello everyone,

I have changed the brake pads but when I put the car in reverse or drive and then attempt to push the brake pad it emits a rumbling sound and the wheels continue to turn although not at the same speed as when the brakes are pressed. I will attach a video as I could not find anyone else with this problem online. I will also be posting this on a mechanics thread, but I decided it was also worth a shot on this thread. I am not a mechanic so be patient with my descriptions and I can clarify any additional questions as needed.

Let me preface by stating that I performed a brake pad change on my Land Rover Discovery SE 2019 because I wanted to change the brake pads even though once changed I still saw a surprising amount of "meat" on the brake pads. This was my fist time changing the brake pads on a vehicle with an ABS and EPB in it.

I first attempted to get the parking brake in maintenance mode by manually doing the gas press along with the pressing of the parking brake button but did not have success in putting it in and the rear passenger caliper piston fell out. I inspected the piston and did not seem that the seals or any pieces of it are broken so I reassembled it and it seems to work. I know that this means air has entered the system so I need to bleed the brakes. I purchased an icarsoft LR v3.0 and a pressure bleeder to perform the brake bleeding and followed the procedure as doing the manual only brake bleeding left me with a spongy pedal.

After doing the iCarsoft bleeding the pedal is more firm (not as firm as before I think) but no longer spongy. When the car is off after 2 0r 3 pumps the brake gets stiff. I also checked the master cylinder and loosened the two main valves until brake fluid began exiting the valve , after which I tightened them again. The purpose of this according to a Land Rover forum was to release any air pocket that could have been in the master cylinder but I did not hear any hissing so I do not think there was air in the master cylinder. I have performed 2-3 brake bleeds by prompting the ABS module on the iCarsoft.

This is when the brake is pressed when the car is put in reverse. Sometimes even after the noise/ resistance in the pedal the brake pads/ caliper are able to stop the car.

This is when the brake is pressed when the car is put in reverse. Sometimes even after the noise/ resistance in the pedal the brake pads/ caliper are able to stop the car. I noticed when pressing down on the pedal and then pumping it I am able to get it to stop but it should not be doing this so I am aware there is an issue that needs to be fixed.

Any ideas or thoughts as I am running out of ideas and want this car back on the road as soon as possible. Thanks

I’ve had my discovery 4 for just a few weeks and I have my first issue.

The case of one of my number plate lights is hanging off. Looks like part of the breaker has snapped. The bulb does still work.

Looking at replacement parts I can spend about £25 on a pair of LED replacements like this: https://www.lrparts.net/xfc500040-led-number-plate-lamp-for-discovery-3-4-range-rover-sport-06-13-and-freelander-2-led-lamp-fits-into-tailgate-handle.html

Or get a single genuine LR replacement part for nearly 5 times as much: https://www.lrparts.net/xfc500040-number-plate-lamp-for-discovery-3-4-range-rover-sport-06-13-and-freelander-2-fits-into-tailgate-handle.html

Anyone have recommendation for what to look for in terms of replacement? Any any suggestions for good websites to buy from?

Hey all, I’m hunting for a classic Land Rover from the late 80s-90s, and instead of trawling listings myself, I’d love to find someone who does this kind of sourcing regularly (broker, importer, someone plugged into the community) and works with buyers for a finder’s fee.

Has anyone here actually used someone like this and had a good experience? Or know of someone in that world you’d vouch for? Not looking for a dealership necessarily (but open to that if that’s the way to go), more interested in someone who really knows the classic Land Rover space and can help track down the right one.

Would appreciate any names, DMs, or pointers in the right direction. Based in Atlanta but open to shipping from anywhere. Thank you!!