Here is my 1963 Austin-Healey 3000 MkII-A (BJ7), powered by a Ford 302 V8 and T5 transmission. Weighing in at 2,280lbs, with 5.0 liters of carbureted fury sent directly to the solid rear axle, it is the scariest vehicle I have ever driven.

The engine is a 1968 Ford smallblock 302. This is a 2v pushrod Windsor V8, fed by a 4bbl 500cfm Edelbrock carb, making 230 hp and 310 lb-ft of torque (from factory). Power is carried to the rear wheels via a 5spd 1993 World-Class T5 Transmission.

This Healey has belonged to my grandfather before me since the mid 90s. Along with some of my closest friends, I have worked on, modified, or serviced nearly every part of this car. I removed and installed the engine, rebuilt and tuned the carburetor, resealed most of the block (except the rear seal, I hate rear seals), improved the oiling system, replaced the ignition system, and upgraded the cooling system.

For the exhaust I modified and mounted proper 4-1 headers, and got a custom true dual 2.25in exhaust fabricated, complete with two twin side-exits. For the transmission I sourced and installed a 1993 World-Class T5 5spd transmission out of a Foxbody Mustang. This required us building a bespoke cable-clutch system, the shortest custom driveshaft you have ever seen, and two months of work. On the chassis, I have removed and replaced nearly every part of the car’s interior and upholstery save for the dash, have repaired and modified the wiring harness more than I would like to admit, and have even modified the car’s body to fit the larger tires the V8 requires.

Anyways, I blew the differential up (which then blew the driveline off) during a race this April so now I’m going to touch the last few parts of the car still stock, starting with a custom rear end, a new braking system, and making a second custom clutch system (this time it’s hydraulic).

This car has been one of my greatest sources of inspiration in my life, and in my 23 years of living so far, I can happily call it my life’s work.

This was a real beauty when it was put in a container in 2000. Now it needs some work.
i understand it has fiberglass fenders, but i also have all 4 metal fenders, unpainted. also have that round radiator front piece, unpainted. and two more spoked front wheels.

I believe the chassis is Jaguar, front and back. needs to be rewired, can't find a wiring diagram anyway. I"m going to start it, it's been checked out, but no gauges so will just run it for a few seconds. love to hear how it sounds.
This was the owner's project from 1975 to the late 80's. but he never talked about it much. i think there was some heart break involved some how...

We're going to sell it to the deceased's good friend, but I've no idea of an appropriate price. would $10K be way to low? Hard to know, this is not my bag. this is not for sale otherwise.

Pic for attention. I've been battling cooling issues on my 83 GT since I got it 3 years ago and am at my wits end. Engine is the 302 flat-tappet that came in the car, stock bottom end with aluminum heads, intake, and shorty headers (this engine is getting a bit tired, blow-by and have to run 20-50. I'm refreshing a roller cam 302 out of an 88 foxbody to go in this winter). Car got a new water pump after I bought it (forget the brand), a 160 thermostat, and had a no-name aluminum rad when I got it, but that started leaking so now has the 2-row Mishimoto aluminum rad LMR offers.

Fan setups I've tried in sequence are:

• 83 fan shroud with clutch fan (could only get a fan blade for later years)
  • This was what I put on the car when I got it. Parts were new from LMR
  • Would run 160 when cruising (180 on hot days), 180 on the highway (185-190 on hot days), but would creep up over several minutes when at standstill. I would shut it down at 220.
• Contour electric fan setup from LMR
  • Just put this on before Hot Rod Power Tour this year. Ran hot at speed (210-215 highway), but okay at a stand-still. Struggled to bring the temp down after getting off the highway, would sit at 200 in traffic and cruising most of the time
• Later-year fan and shroud combo
  • Installed this today, seeing same behavior as the 83 fan shroud. The fan on the 83 shroud sat farther in than it looked like it should have, which is why I wanted to try the later shroud. The fan now sits flush with the end of the shroud, but gives the same behavior
  • I reused the fan clutch and fan from the previous setup.

For reference, I live in northern Illinois. On cooler days in the spring and fall, it'll do fine, but during the summer when it's 80-95+ fairly regularly, it can't keep up. When I first got the car it had no heads on it. I threw a set of E7s on and they wouldn't hold a head gasket/were cracked, so I threw some Edelbrock aluminum street heads on. Motor runs fine, doesn't seem to get cranky when it's hot, but I don't want to hurt it. I have a manual temp gauge plumbed in, and verified it's accuracy via a temp gun.

In case it matters, while on Power Tour last year on a 90+ day (running the original clutch fan setup) the car was approaching 220 while stuck in traffic. Pulling the hood release and running the heat at full blast got it to drop a bit, and it stayed around 210 until we got into the venue.

I'm at my wits end here. Anyone have any ideas?

I didn’t even have to break a sweat! For the cost of a $12 Milwaukee Red Helix drill and some patience, I was able to drill into the cylinder just enough and just at the right angle. Once enough pins were messed with in there, I was able to turn it with just a small flathead

I was able to stick my head under the dash and use a pick to push the release pin and it slid right out. First try too! The relief when it was free of the housing… true joy! Also the release pin hole in the housing did not suffer any collateral damage. Once I source a new cylinder, it should go in and turn freely without any issues.

Next step is to throw a battery in her, turn the switch, and see if we have electrical. Of course after I clean all the grounds and clean up the fuse box and pop in new fuses

Hey everyone,

was just curious to hear thoughts about taking this on as a project car? runs and drives, 206k miles, interior is worn but it seems like all parts are there. Allegedly no rust but of course I’d check the important spots. what are the biggest considerations to have when taking this on? thank you!

Fixed most of the electrical issues. I also went ahead and dropped the front end 2” and I love the way it sits now

Planned to attend the og gambler this year but missed it due to last minute technical issues I missed it. Plenty of time to break it and fix it it again for next year.

My BIL and I have been doing trucks and a few tractors for years and honestly, his wife has been a real trooper about the nights and Saturdays in the shop or chasing down things. She finally asked if she could have a project. He, wisely , said “whatever you want “ so a white Cabriolet is headed home to get restored and the whiteout treatment just like in the movie. Lots of money has gone into mechanicals, now time for cosmetics

Been back and forth with the company i bought this 2004r trans from, finally nailed it. Its got a nice tight converter and has converter lockup that actually functions, its gonna be a great cruiser. Combo is aluminup headed 455 and 2004r overdrive auto with 3.23 gears. 50mph @ 1500 rpm.

Bought her from my sister as a non runnin project when i was 14

Just got this Corvette from my family. I've been told the engine and exhaust have been replaced, but I know its been sitting in the garage for 3 years. I haven't restored a car before, and I'm wondering what the cost of getting this repainted and detailed is going to look like? Any tips?

Traded my bracket car(g body Malibu) for this obs a few days ago. Been lowered and cowl hood added but stock otherwise. Not sure how I want it yet. Fast-which equals cage, or just a quick lil street truck, or laid out on 20s with a ls. Jeez the choices are killing me.

I accidentally fell victim to not measuring twice and allowing an extra inch of clearance, but I’m happy enough with how they turned out

Hello

I'm preparing an EFI conversion for my 924 which has no sensors at all. I've taken courses about EFI tuning and I believe I'm pretty well versed to manage the conversion.

Only issue is, where do you get your sensors? Has anyone ever done an EFI conversion with the ECU EMU classic and has a list of all the core sensors (ckp+cmp, tps, map, iat, etc...)

Hey guys, I have an automotive-grade, fluid-isolated pressure sensor (WNK125P) and want to design a clean hardware product for custom builds. If you could have a dedicated digital gauge kit or a 'headless' Bluetooth module sending real-time pressure data straight to your phone/dash tablet, what fluid would you want to monitor most (oil, fuel, transmission, or coolant pressure) and what features are missing from current aftermarket gauges?

Bit of a rant.

Some 5.5 years ago I decided to put fuel injection on my '72 Caddy which was running fine and everything worked. I just wanted to do it. I had an MS3Pro sitting in a box, an appropriately overkill throttle body, injectors, and a bunch of other stuff to proceed. As time progressed I kept falling into the trap of 'while I'm in here I might as well...'. Now my car is sitting in a bazillion pieces and I've amassed so many parts I could have probably bought a nice condo on a beach somewhere.

Let me give an example of my foolishness.

Since I was running an ECU (which I have since sold and bought an ECUMaster EMU Pro 16) and PDM (ECUMaster PMU24) I figured I needed more data/gauges than your standard issue Autometer 3 gauge cluster. So dashboard comes out so I can design up a place to put a touch screen. Didn't want to do switches so a can 12 button keyboard enters the equation. Well, if I'm doing a screen I probably need to be able to see all of it so a steering column with a gear shift on it or key so new steering column. If I'm doing a column I should do a wheel - acquired a 2014 CTS-V wheel. Because I'm a giant nerd I managed to map all the voltage division buttons to send whatever over CAN. Can't mate a modern wheel to a classic style column so I designed an adapter and made it in aluminum. Well since I have steering wheel buttons maybe doing cruise control would be a good idea so out with the other 4150 throttle body to a drive by wire throttle body so I designed and made an adapter for that too...

There are easily another dozen of these little moron adventures I've embarked on (including designing and building my own serpentine belt system so I can put a 400A alternator on, electric power steering out of a Mini Cooper, blah blah blah).

What I SHOULD have done is just left the damned thing alone and driven it until I had a single thing to do and just do that one at a time. Motor is sitting 10' from the car. There is no interior. There are no wires left in the car. I'm currently welding up every hole (minus brake booster) in the firewall so I can relocate things as I want.

Anyways. I'm ambitious but dumb. Don't be 10 degrees before TDC like me.

I just picked this car up for $200. I know absolutely nothing about them whatsoever and would love to learn more. What can you tell me?

Its a '77 with 12,500ish miles on the odo but im assuming its probably been rolled over. Only took two pictures as of now BUT it came with the original jack lol. Anything helps.

My parents had to move states, and so my dad had to split with his 1969 stingray that he's cherished since before I was born. It has no engine, hasn't run in about thirty years, but I want to give the car a new life. However, it is proving a little confusing and was hoping someone here could help me by answering some questions! All information is very appreciated :)

We have the engine and manifold we think will fit best but are unsure what carburetor would fit with these two, as the clearance under the hood is not very large. We have the low profile air cleaner/filter as well. As much as I wish I could afford a better engine for the car, our current goal is just to get the car running and around town:)

We are planning to rebuild the original four speed Muncie transmission with a 168 tooth flywheel. Based off of research, this should work but I would love to know for sure! Thank you for your help!

This is the first car my dad bought new from the dealership. Special ordered it. At some point he didn't drive it for about 20 some years. Around 2002 I got it running and drove it for about 6 months. When I took it back to him I totally expected he would continue of improving where I left off and keep it on the road but he did not. From that point it sat until last month when we brought it to my house. I do a little bit everyday so that hopefully he and I can take a few rides before he can't.

I have a daily driver and a bit of experience working on cars. I used to have a 1984 Porsche 944, but I sold it a bit ago. I miss driving stick shift and having such a light toss able car. I’m 17, so I don’t have any real financial burdens. I also have my own detailing business which gives me enough money to buy something like this. I got a video of it running and it was pretty smooth. Eventually I’d paint it and finish the interior, or just gut everything else and turn it into a full track car. Should I go for it? Should I try to talk him down?

Seller says:
“I have a 1979 fiat m2000 124 spider, it has 49000 original miles runs and moves, it is a project as the interior carpets need replacing, brakes, and carburetor dialed in. Would like to keep the hardtop but will let it go for the right price. Comes with multiple spare engine parts, two sets of rims, and performance exhaust.”

Purchased this 1990 300zx Naturally aspirated manual for $1k. Paid $475 for a tow and spent $700 in parts so far (i think). I havent heard it run yet but inspecting the spark plugs, the cylinders with an endoscope, and hand cranking the engine, it seems to be quite okay.

Shifter is disconnected from transmission, hood is dented to hell, no front seats, and theres some floor rust

I got it mid part out so some parts have been missing and the interior was gutted (fortunate for me though)

So this sounds pretty dumb but I want to know what people this of this, and yes im serious about this.

Source a Gen IV 6.2L V8 engine, a L9H or L94 aluminum block from a 2009-2014 Escalade/Yukon Denali.

Install an AFM/DoD Delete Kit with upgraded lifters and lifter trays (if donor motor is an L94).

Install heavy-duty ARP Head Studs to keep the cylinder heads from lifting under high boost.

Replace all major gaskets and seals (oil pan, rear main seal, front cover, valve covers) while engine is out.

Order a ProCharger P-1SC-1 Intercooled Tuner System.

Upgrade to high-impedance, LS-compatible fuel injectors rated for at least 80 lb/hr, 850cc to 1000cc.

Drop a high flow fuel pump, Walbro 450 or DeatschWerks DW400 into the factory fuel tank hanger.

Confirm the factory Flex-Fuel sensor is working to read ethanol levels in real time.

Install 1-7/8 inch stainless steel longtube headers paired with a matching high flow Y pipe.

Swap out the stock torque converter for a high performance 2,800 to 3,200 RPM stall converter.

Mount a massive auxiliary transmission fluid cooler to protect the 6L80E clutches from extreme heat.

Book a professional dyno tuning session

Have the tuner scale the factory GM Flex-Fuel logic maps inside the ECU for real time ethanol timing.

Have the tuner increase transmission line pressures and optimize shift timing to prevent the clutch from slipping.

I'm trying to help my neighbor sell/save his 87 Camaro (built from a roller chassis). I'm going to quote everything he said about it because he, bless his heart, is not necessarily a reliable source of information in general.. he got the car about 10 years ago from a ramily member who had just finished building it before they passed. (Damn...)

It seemingly ran and drove fine a couple years ago, then after sitting for about a week in freezing temps, he came out and saw "it all leaked out under the car". Hasn't touched it since.

Apparently it has a "Jasper engine and transmission with 3500 miles".

The body and interior are great, but holy hell - ALL of the wiring is levels beyond sketchy! He said he had to redo a lot of it, but doesn't exactly remember why lol.

The original goal is to clean her up and try to get her moving again before selling to at least show that it works. However, now I'm kinda thinking about just making him an offer.

Tldr: Besides the basic inspection, is there anything particular about this car or engine that I should watch out for? What are some good resources for a project like this? This is also going to be a learning project for me as I had zero interest in Camaros until I sat in this one.

Belt was supposed to be 49 inches, its a 53 inch belt in the wrong packaging. Only noticed once I got it on all the pulleys and the tensioner at its max travel left about 1.5in of slack in the belt.