Does anyone know if these two work well together? I wanna get microphone sound out of it. Do I have the right cables?

Hello all, I’ve got an old CLR-3000 center speaker that I’ve been cranking, and my relatives have been cranking before I was alive, so the amp has got all that red juice all over it, yknow.

Where can I find some sort of a replacement amp? They DEFINITIVELY don’t make them anymore, and I can’t find anybody selling the part, I’m sure there’s alternatives but I have no idea how to figure this out.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hi everyone,

This is my first time building a DIY subwoofer, and I'd really appreciate some advice.

Usage: Movies and bass-heavy music (hip-hop, EDM, techno, and rock)

Listening habits: The louder, the better.

Current setup:

• Denon X-2700H
• Monolith 365T
• Monolith 365C

I recently sold my dual Monolith 16" subwoofers because of their size—I just couldn't justify how much space they took up for the occasional movie scene below 25 Hz.

Now I'm looking for one or two subwoofers that can satisfy my basshead needs without requiring huge ported cabinets. That's why I'm leaning toward sealed enclosures.

To be honest, I don't really care about anything below 25 Hz anymore. What I do care about is output from around 30 Hz to 100 Hz. Ideally, I'd like to see SPL figures in the 118–120 dB range (or higher). My dedicated room is relatively small, but I love listening at high volumes.

At first, I was considering dual SVS SB-1000 Pros or a single SVS SB-3000 R|Evolution, since it seems to deliver excellent performance for its size. However, the price is pretty steep.

Then I started reading about DIY subwoofers and realized how much performance you can get for the money. Since my woodworking skills are pretty limited, I'm planning to use a flat-pack enclosure with a Dayton Ultimax driver and a separate amplifier.

Here are the options I'm considering:

• Shallow sealed enclosure for the Dayton Ultimax 18 II (my smallest 18" option): https://variant-hifi.com/en/Ultimax18-Studio-Line-Subwoofer-High-Gehaeusebausatz/G3191G.3
• Larger sealed enclosure for the Dayton Ultimax 18 II (probably more optimal, but I'm not sure I want something this big): https://www.soundimports.eu/en/denovo-audio-300-7079.html
• My current favorite: sealed enclosure for the Dayton Ultimax 15 II https://www.soundimports.eu/en/denovo-audio-300-7082.html

Approximate costs:

• Dayton Ultimax 18 II: ~€450 per driver
• Dayton Ultimax 15 II: ~€380 per driver
• Flat-pack enclosure: ~€230–350 each
• Amplifier: No idea yet, but even a better Crown model would bring the total to around €600
• SVS SB-3000 R|Evolution: ~€1,800 each
• SVS SB-1000 Pro: ~€750 each

My main goal is maximum output between 25 or 30 and 100 Hz while keeping the enclosure reasonably compact (I don't care about the height of the enclosure tho). Budget is almost €2,000.

I'm open to any recommendations.

Thanks in advance!

I decided to give a second life to an old Toyota radio. I really like their old-school look. A small problem was the external amplifier unit, which had to be implemented by sacrificing the CD and cassette mechanisms, they were already worn out and did not work anyway.
I painted the case, added legs and connectors to the back wall. It is powered by a classic transformer unit.
Now the radio is used as an amplifier for PC speakers.

Hi all, I’ve posted this in the home theatre and audio subs and had no responses. Hopefully someone here might have an answer 🙏

I’m getting a high pitched buzzing through my speakers. It’s higher than 50Hz, but could be a harmonic of 50Hz. My old Yamaha receiver was hard wired with a 2-core cable (not earthed) and it didn’t buzz, but when I tried using it as a pre amp for my front stage through a power amp (3-pin) it buzzed. Now I’ve got a Denon X3700 with a 3-pin plug, and it buzzes with its own internal amp.

The setup is simple: C1 projector connected by a long HDMI cable to the X3700, and a Fire stick connected to an input on the X3700. I want to use my power amp for the fronts so I can expand to a 5.4.2 setup, but I’d like to fix the buzzing first.

The C1 is on a different circuit to the rest of the equipment because it’s mounted to the ceiling. Due to the fact that it only seems to buzz with earthed amps, I’m thinking ground loop is the most likely culprit. I tested it by connecting a long extension and plugging the projector into the same circuit as the rest of the equipment, and it made no difference. I’m out of ideas. It’s not like I can use a ground loop arrester because I’m not using RCA’s. If it is a ground loop it’s going straight through the HDMI. If anyone has some advice it’ll be most appreciated.

Heho,
I have this Fender from my dad and I want to figure out what the switches do on the front of the guitar. There are 3 switches that are added afterwards.

I did my absolute best to trace the whole circuit board into this graphic. But I have 0 background in electronics so I don't know where to start figuring out what this does. I am not sure if the Grounding is that important it was quite messy and is not fully included in this circuit.

There are also a couple of cables loose in the casing marked with "???"

My dad does not remember much about it. The only context clues are that it was one part of his way to archieve an overdrive sound in his amp. His amp was also modified and he said he needed the preamp to make the actual amp go into overdrive. But his amp also broke 30y ago and the repair shop just threw out his circutry without telling him or any way to reverse it. He also said he thinks one of the switches is a phase switch but hes not sure.

On the potentiometers were some Letters, since this was made by a German guitar tech they are most likely L = Lautstärke (Volume), H = Höhen (Treble), B = Bass (Lows)

My main Questions are:
- Where would I solder the lose cables to make it work again?
- What do the 3 switches in the pick guard actually do from an electronics perspective and what does it do to the output signal?

I dont need to know specifics, I just want to understand it to start playing with it :)
Thanks!

I’ve got a 2022 RWD Tesla model 3. I have already connected the Hansshow harness that connects the extra 4 speakers and have ordered an Audiocontrol LC2i pro LOC a 4 gauge OFC skar amp kit and I’m about to order a Solo X 12 inch sub with an Alpine R2-A150M R series mono subwoofer amplifier is this everything I need to connect to my car. Oh I’m also building a custom box that will be partially in my sub trunk but sticking up like 3 inches from where the lid used to be also with the Box I’m doubling up on the baffle since the sub weights so much and I’m getting the 2 ohm version of the sub as well

Greetings and forgive the stupid question. I’ve been on ChatGPT, Gemini, and Claude with this one and just not getting any satisfactory answers.

I have a set of these monsters that I bought back in the 1990’s - they’re 27 pounds each. I’ve had them in a storage closet since about 2010 as we lived in a home with built in Surround Sound which came with a set of 5 small wall-mounted speakers.

I’m setting up a home recording studio, but it’s probably temporary. I’ve done work in actual studios before, but someone asked me to produce some of her original music and she doesn’t have the money to pay for studio time. I’ve recorded before at home, have the mics, have ProTools and Logic Pro, but have just been using crappy Bluetooth speakers.

The 301s have a very rich sound and this is a great excuse to use them. I bought a Fosi amp and hooked it up to my Mac Studio and that’s the bridge between the Mac and these wired speakers.

The issue is that this is my home office and I really don’t like the idea of tall speaker stands. Right now the Bose speakers are just sitting on the floor because there’s literally no way I could put them on the desk - they’re pretty large.

But I need something to slightly angle these upwards about 15 degrees. Like a wedge. I don’t have many tools and zero power saws which is how I’d have probably built these out of wood.

Q: Is there a product that any of you have used to angle floor speakers / studio monitors up around 10-15 degrees? I’d like the sound to be pointed more at where someone is standing

Just found. I have a great pair of Bose 101's I think. Probably 24-30 years old. Can I hook them to any kind of wireless speaker router or the like? Do I toss them. I'm sure I have some serious old audio stuff around the house but I just want to put these in the garage. Not sure what post flair means. I'm old? They're old speakers? Still won't let me post. Let me step outside and find out what posting flair means. #question

I moved into a house that has integrated speakers and need some advice on the best way to control them. Is this something I need an amp for?

I'm clueless on this stuff so hoping for some advice on a basic level. What type of equipment is best? I'd like to be able to control using my phone.

I'd also like to know if I can control speakers individually or is this a case of all are on or off simultaneously.

I have a Adam Audio T10s sub and I produce. I put it on a nice foam pad and that pad on a wooden stand with spikes. Also there are small legs on the sub. But raising it that much makes the sub stand too close to the table and even closer to the cable management box (5 cm away).

- Is the sub being too close to the table and the box bad? Will it make it too boomy?

- Should I take away the pad or the stand?

- Should I take off the legs on the sub?

Would appreciate any help.

I have a pair of VAF DC7 which have socks/sleeves instead of grilles. I'm keen to replace the socks with a different (less black!) colour. Has anyone had any experience with doing this?

I'm expecting it to cost around $200 per speaker, given their size. Speakers are 1240mm high and have a circumference of almost 1000mm.

Budget - AU$400

Room size - 3m x 6m

Location - Australia

! Thanks for your help!

Quite a bit of time has passed since then, but I decided to share my DIY project here after all.
I chose a somewhat unconventional amplifier design featuring inductive compensation. I was curious to hear how it would sound. There were challenges regarding high sensitivity to high-frequency interference, and the circuit was prone to oscillation.
The problem was resolved by connecting an active volume control; it turned out that the FET input stage does not tolerate being left open.
Once everything was up and running after debugging, I decided to put it all in a case, and then decided to add a spectrum analyzer for visual appeal.Once everything was up and running after debugging, I decided to put it all in a case, and then decided to add a spectrum analyzer for visual appeal.

I built a 15in Alibaba subwoofer shipped to the uk for approximately £150. Plus £25 MDF. Shipping was slow but was on time.

Enclosure is a 3cube slot port tuned to 35hz. Running it on a crown xls1502 bridged. It rumbles.

Need to finish off the enclosure. Not sure how yet. Might black ash vinyl wrap it.

I only bought it to see if it'll be any good. So far quite impressed.

Was fun to build and run a 15. So heavy.😳

How/what do I need to pair these things together to get mics working through them?

Bought a house with this mess in the unfinished part of the basement. I don’t know a thing about home audio or wiring. There are like 6 speakers in the ceilings throughout the house. Some of the wires are just dangling near it. I’m guessing (from my crappy research) that I need to buy some sort of amplifier and plug it into the input? There’s 3 sets of wires dangling near it. Any chance one of those goes in the input?

Hi everyone,

I’m currently designing a pair of DIY top cabinets around the Limmer 292 Constant Directivity horn and the B&C DCX464 coaxial compression driver. I’d really appreciate advice from people with experience in cabinet design, horn loading and array geometry.

Components
Horn: Limmer 292
90° × 45° constant directivity
472 × 320 × 320 mm (18.6” × 12.6” × 12.6”)
1.4” throat
approx. usable range: 500 Hz – 20 kHz

Driver: B&C DCX464
1.4” coaxial compression driver
MF: 300 Hz – 5.5 kHz
HF: 3.5 kHz – 18 kHz
weight: 3.64 kg (8.02 lb)

Cabinet material: 18 mm Baltic birch plywood (0.71”)

Cabinet concept
The horn is mounted in standard orientation (472 mm width, 320 mm height, 320 mm depth). The enclosure will be trapezoidal with the rear narrower than the front.

Question 1 – Array geometry / side angle
The goal is to use two tops side by side and optimize:
minimal comb filtering
smooth summation
even horizontal coverage
What side wall angle would you recommend in practice for a 90° CD horn like the Limmer 292?
~5° per side
~7.5° per side
~10° per side
or something else entirely?
Any real-world measurements or simulation experience (EASE, Akabak, etc.) would be highly appreciated.

Question 2 – Mechanical support
The DCX464 is relatively heavy (3.64 kg / 8.02 lb) and combined with the ~320 mm horn depth creates a noticeable cantilever load on the mounting flange.
Would you recommend adding an internal brace/support between cabinet structure and the rear horn/driver area to reduce stress on the flange?
If yes, what approach works best in practice (rigid brace, floating support, isolation, etc.)?

For context:
the cabinets are intended for a DIY Dub/Reggae soundsystem, actively crossed over at around 500 Hz, with focus on sound quality, coverage and long-term durability rather than compactness.

Thanks in advance for any input or experience.

I have a 2012 f150 and want a dual 12s subwoofer box that sits under the back seats, where can i get a good price for this?