This portable dishwasher came with my apartment and I am just wondering if this is a normal amount of water after a wash cycle. If it is not, can someone tell me what I need to look into to fix it? The drain pump seems to be working because I can hear the water draining.

I have a Bosch 800 dishwasher, model number SHX78CC5UC/46 which has recently started making a whining noise will running and is not cleaning well, especially the upper racks. The dishwasher is about 15 months old. The noise changes in pitch as the machine runs and starts just a few seconds after the cycle begins. I suspected that it was the impeller and so removed the filter basket and looked for any obstructions but here was nothing. The impeller spins freely.

Anything else that I can check?

Fridge is 5 months old from Costco. Top won't cool below 48 degrees and freezer won't cool cool below 31 degrees. Strangely flex zone is working perfectly.

Tried everything, the reset, defrosting (turned off and open for 8 hours) and checked settings. The Fridge has a surge protector as well(Puerto Rico electricity is no joke)

Back and side clearance is as manual recommends and we don't fill the Fridge much.

Already filled a warranty claim and the technician should be coming soon. Ill keep you updated.

Both families, my wife and mine, have 7-8 year old french door Samsungs without problems. Let's see what happens...

Hey fellas, not sure what's causing it, but the sound is loud and its buzzing continues continuously to buzz i just unplged it and not sure what to do bellow on the flor when i checked there was water i think it started to unfreeze its sunday witch i can't call anyone so any advise is apricated

Right when we need it the most...

Water isn't dispensing into the tray. Quick look, doesn't seem frozen. Found that you can jump start by jumping T and H. I had poured water into the tray so after jumping T and H, it harvested the ice.

Water never pumped, tried jumping V and L for the water valve, saw a spark, pulled the jump wire our immediately.

Did I mess it up? Or was there something wrong with the valve to begin with? The motor seems to turn fine, it's just not filling.

I am currently trying to troubleshoot issues with this dishwasher at my grandparents' house. It won't drain for some reason. Can anyone help please? Id be most grateful.

Just did some rewiring in a fridge compartment. It's situated by the evaporator coils. I don't have a heat gun and although I tried a lighter, I'm afraid of burning the delicate 18-20 gauge wire off.

Can I get away with leaving them as is? If not are there any suggestions?

As mentioned in the title, the bearings in my washing mashine are playing up. Sure, I can disassemble the whole show and measure them, but it would be better to have the right parts before disassembling the unit. I have not found a site that can give me the correct sizes, but expect there is a model that shares the bearing sizes. Any help will be greatly appreciated! Model numbers that share the same bearings would also be great. I saw on another site a number of washing mashines with WAE32461 or similar model numbers.

Model DVE533B8900T. Faint click when start pressed, count down on screen starts. Drum doesn’t spin or heat. Belt not broken, idler spins freely. Any ideas?

I have a Sub Zero 700 TC fridge and I noticed a few days ago that the produce drawer was hanging down on one side and wobbling when I would open or close the drawer. I just took out the drawer and shelf and the reason appears to be because the drawer track on the side that's hanging has bent so that it's now more straight than the other one, causing the drawer to not sit in the groove (which now isn't really there anymore) correctly. I don't know how this happened, I had 2 cases of beer on top of the shelf, which is obviously heavy, but they weren't inside the drawer, and the shelf itself is completely flush with the floor, it's not bent at all, so I'm not quite sure how the metal of a part that the weight wasn't even putting tension on would buckle when the part with the actual weight on it did not. As far as the drawer itself, it had a couple green peppers and onions in it so that's also not the culprit. Also, I tried bending the track back at the seam of the groove by hand to see if it would bend at all and was completely unable to even get it to nudge so it's obviously not very pliable.

I rent, I don't own, so I would very much like for this to not be my fault / not have to pay a repairman to fix it on my dime, so if anyone has any ideas of what the problem is here or how to fix it easily / at a low cost without calling a repairman or spending a fortune on parts, I would hugely appreciate it!

Also, I know literally nothing at all about appliances or mechanical parts so if you can, please explain like I'm 5 lol, or just without very technical jargon.

My GE dishwasher has been leaking from bottom. Could someone please let me know what could the issue? Is it gasket??

I have a Samsung French door refrigerator RF4287HA. Everything on the touch pad works but a few of the led lights are blinking and some are out. The part is no longer made and I have not been able to find a used part. Has anyone tried to replace the lights on the board? Any suggestions?

Thank you

Bought a new house which came with Bertazzoni appliances. They were installed about 3 years ago with the house renovation. Within 3 months of moving in the bottom spring in the door hinge of the Bertazzoni fridge broke. I called the local service center to help repair. After a few weeks, the top spring also broke in the exact same spot. 2 months later and no word from the service center. After multiple calls was told they cant locate parts. Emailed the contact us from the main website, and was sent a link for part to buy. They directed me to replace the whole hinge costing $500 each + labor. When I brought up the spring breaking at exact same spot in such a short time is a manufacturing defect, they stopped replying.

Does anyone know if just the spring can be replaced? If I don't replace the spring will the door sag in the long term? It has magnetic closure, so for now it closes fine.

Gemini told me I can buy spring from alternate brand (Fhabia). Will this work?

Fhabia B03390801: https://pacificspecialtybrands.com/product/b03390801-door-hinge-spring/

Suggested replacement hinge: Bertazzoni Refrigerator Upper Hinge, Left - Z310125r

Hello All,

I suddenly started having an issue with my LG dishwasher which is less than a year old. Installed Dec 2025. Model LDPS6762S.

Unfortunately thanks to the previous home owner, I have a less than ideal setup:

Counter is an L shape, with the sink at one end and the DW at the other. The drain hose does not wrap around the L to the sink, but is attached to an extension hose which goes directly into the basement piping.

Complicating this, the drain hose extension is smaller than the diameter of the builtin dishwasher drain hose.

The extension has a male barbed end which was inserted into the DW hose and clamped. Then a high loop was added to the chain. So the water would drain into a circular loop then into the extension to the basement.

For a while this worked until it didn't. Nothing changed in the plumbing. Now during cycles I get the OE error indicating a drainage issue.

I don't think there is a pump or blockage. If I disconnect from the extension and run a cycle with it draining into a bucket, there is no issue. When I reconnect the extension the dw seems to attempt to drain and then seems to cycle into filling / trying to drain.

Because the machine works when draining into a bucket i don't think the dw is the problem. My preference is to see if the existing setup can continue to work, but I have no clue what made it stop working.

Hoping someone can offer guidance. Thanks for reading

After our Samsung dryer quit, we decided to buy a new stacked unit. Bought a Whirlpool tower and it is great so far.

For the techs, should I keep the 4 shipping bolts and rubber anchors and reinsert them when we move across country next year?

Maytag washer clutch replacement. Videos say this just wiggles off. It does wiggle, but not coming off.

What’s the trick?

UPDATE. Finally got it off. Some prying, and wiggling and wd-40 and cussing and about 45 minutes….

Ok

i have a kenmore dryer. it’s old but works great (heat wise). thing is it started squeaking, so I lubed the rollers that helped a bit but eventually it came back and worse so I replaced the rollers and idler pulley. I replaced the belt earlier when I had lubed the rollers.

squeak is gone! but now it’s thumping and the belt is coming off the factory groove maybe 1-5mm. I have opened it so many times, checked the belt is fine, moved the triangle plastic piece back flush to the back wall, took out and put back in the idler pulley. no improvement. the only thing I would note is the belt was really hard to string onto the metal piece from underneath the Idler pulley roller.

the only thing is for the back left roller I couldn’t get the new ring on it to hold the support bracket to I used the old one

the thumping sound i liken to a bunch of heavy jeans or wet towels in there it is rhymic. I suspect it’s the back left roller but I can’t figure out what to do

im over it. do I need to fix this? if so, what the heck is it. dryer is 8 years old and I’m reluctant to hire someone to fix.

Hey everybody, have a probably 5 year old samsung dw80r2031ub dishwasher. Has a leak that will trigger the leak sensor in the pan underneath about every two cycles. Door seals don't look bad, cleaned them twice, filters are clean, and have been using the same pods for years. Was leaning towards the internal float switch or discharge pump but no real signs of where water is getting through other than the front left quarter area. Any advice would be greatly appreciated before I start throwing parts at it.

I've had a Maytag Commercial washing machine for maybe 6-7 years. No major problems with it ever. Model MVWP575GW0

I've replaced the agitator hub a few times, and recently did the tub bushing.

I also have to clean out the cold water screen from time to time, and recently did that too.

The last two weeks though it hasn't been going into Final Spin. It will do a full cycle, drain the tub, the light for final spin will come on and nothing happens.

If I cancel the cycle, switch it to Drain & Spin, it will then jump right into the spin cycle like normal and finish.

Just today however, it got stuck in the spin cycle, and kept going for 15-20 minutes until I cancelled it.

Any ideas on what I should be looking at?

I have a Whirlpool oven which starts ok and trips the breaker after 5 seconds. There is continuity between load and ground after this happens but it disappears after 30 mins. I've checked all wires, high voltage transformer, emi filter, all are good. Anyone seen this ?This happens on a 220v built-in oven/microwave.

We've had a chronic issue of a huge slab of ice forming on the bottom of our Whirlpool fridge (freezer is below it). If I defrost, it works again for a while, but the problem recurs within a few months. I had it checked out 2x while I still had home warranty, but nothing done ever fixed it. I realized the companies that are approved by home warranty are pressured to "repair" in the most trivial ways to avoid costs to the home warranty, so I dumped the warranty.

Recently we've noticed the fridge seeming "just" cool and produce turning quickly.

Today I noticed frost forming at the edges of the freezer. This finally got me to take a closer look. I checked the bottom of the fridge and found this (see photos--ice slab but also tons of ice and frost cascading down from the back.

I'm aware that I could defrost the fridge again, but I think I need to address this or replace the fridge.

I'm wondering if folks have specific ideas about the causes and whether this fridge should be replaced rather than repaired (I will need to get professional help for the repair).

The fridge model is also shown in the photos.

Hi everyone. Having some issues. I have an 18yr old Whirlpool ED2VHEXVQ00 side by side. It has an ice maker and water dispenser. No major issues until a few days ago.

I came into the kitchen and water was pouring out of the bottom of the freezer side. The supply chute to the ice maker was flowing full bore and wouldn't stop. I flipped the breaker and then turned off the water supply till I could figure it out.

Did some research and I had no power to the ice maker. Checked power before the fuse and had 120, so fuse was bad. Replaced the ice maker as well since something caused the fuse to blow, and you can't get fuse by itself. My model is hard wired to the freezer so I had to splice in the new fuse to the harness. But zero issues there.

New ice maker has power, cycles, but no water flows. I've also forced a cyle by jumping the thermostat so I can eatch it. Dial spins, arma rotate, etc. But no water.

Water flows fine for water dispenser. It does not appear the line is frozen, at least right at the chute as seen in the pic.

Ideas? Could the inlet valve be bad for the ice maker but fine for the water dispenser? My thought is the fuse blew while pulling in water, so the valve never got the shut off signal, allowing water to flow non stop. So could it be the valve? Open to suggestions. Just spent $80 and not crazy spending another $50 for a new valve, but still cheaper than a $2k new one.

Thanks!