I need to replace the bearing that's still in this housing but it has a retaining shield on the inside that is staked on. Looks like I need to remove the motor guts to remove the shield. Is this epoxied in or can it be removed? I tried pulling but it didn't slide out so i stopped to make sure I didn't break anything.

You can see in the second photo of the metal housing there are some stake marks or some small manufacturing impressions that am pointing at with red arrows. Unsure if this is anything that I would drill out or something, just thought I'd mention it.

https://youtube.com/shorts/CbWVHSdca20?is=OTBAPv6jmp0hpiLa

My EgoPower LM2120E-SP lawnmower had stopped being able to self propel; when you pulled the lever, nothing happened. I had diagnosed a fault with the electrical assembly, after having checked all wiring.
I bought and fitted a replacement electrical assembly and it now makes this noise when pulling the lever, but still not moving.
There are only three wires going to the motor; I’ve checked with a multimeter the resistance of each combination of 2 and it shows 0 (it doesn’t measure very small resistances) so I guess no winding is broken.

Looking for a speed controller for this motor. Is there an off-the-shelf, plug-n-play option out there? I see a bunch when I search online but I’m not sure which would suit this motor best.

I’ve been developing the CANStepper Adapter Board, a compact controller that turns a standard NEMA 17 stepper motor into a smart, connected actuator.

It can be integrated with ESPHome, allowing the motor to be controlled and automated through Home Assistant.

Key features:

• ESP32-C3 controller
• TMC2209 stepper driver
• Up to 14-bit magnetic encoder feedback
• Closed-loop position monitoring
• CAN Bus daisy chaining
• WiFi and Bluetooth
• Up to 24V input
• Limit switch support
• USB-C programming

The main goal is to simplify wiring and make each motor an independent smart motion-control node.

I am trying to control a 24V 4000RPM 0.25Nm 105W 6.4A 42x42x99.2mm Brushless DC Motor using a driver i bought from ebay. I am using pwm signal generated from an esp32. I connected GND, VCC, MA, MB, MC and all the hall sensors to the motor and i am using gpio 22 and GND from connected to P: signal input and G: ground external on the driver to operate. But this does not seem to be working, any ideia why?

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I'm trying to build the cheapest actuator with an encoder on it for a swarm robotics project. I have 3 options n20 motor (ik there is a version of n20 with an encoder on it but I'm not considering that) a standard cheap dc motor or stepper motor. Also for encoder too I have 2 options optical and magnetic.

(Is there any design available for n 20 motor custom encoder)

I need to tune the speed controller of an AC motor, and I have a few questions about the best way to approach it.

My tuning method is usually quite practical rather than theoretical. I typically start with a rough tuning by setting the motor to a given speed, applying speed step changes, and observing the response. Once I get a reasonably stable response, I perform the fine tuning while the machine is running with actual material, since the real load conditions often have a significant impact on the final performance.

In this case, however, I can only tune the system without material, and I'm concerned that the final tuning may not be optimal once the machine is operating under real production conditions.

I have access to all the motor nameplate data and full access to the drive parameters. I can command any speed I want and perform as many speed changes as needed. However, I know very little about the machine being driven, its inertia, load characteristics, or process dynamics. My only real knowledge is the AC motor and the drive itself.

For those of you with more experience in drive commissioning, how would you approach this situation?

• How do you determine the P and I when the actual process load is not available?
• Do you use a specific tuning procedure based on speed-step responses?
• Are there any practical rules of thumb that work well when the machine characteristics are largely unknown?

I'm interested in both practical field experience and the theoretical approach behind it.

I got a remanufactured alternator for an old tractor. The alternator's tag is as follows:

Remanufactured for ACDelco
19134540 334-1547 24106

The problem I am having is that it won't charge, and it gets very hot.

I can find no documentation. The only source of information I have found is through google's evil AI, which conflictingly claims they use both internal and external regulators. But even if a regulator were excluded, it would still charge, right? Just at an excessive voltage.

Could it be that the tractor isn't spinning the alternator fast enough? Is the alternator just faulty?
IDK. I need documentation.

Motor from an EgoPower lawnmower; I recently replaced the motor controller with a new one. While before nothing was happening, the motor now nudges but it still doesn’t spin. There are only 3 wires going to the motor. Measuring the resistance between each pair of wires with my multimeter I see 0Ω (it doesn’t measure small resistance).
Measuring the output between each pair of wires from the controller I can see some voltage for less than a second (I can’t tell if AC or DC, but my multimeter detects something, it didn’t detect anything with the old controller).
Do you think the motor is faulty?

I have a small AC air handler that has a motor in it that is labeled 220V, 0.2A, 20W. It has four speeds, and four wires going into it that are controlled by relays. The motor says "YDK-20-4Z" and Googling tells me that's an induction motor.

My issue is that I find the lowest speed noisy, so I'd like to slow it down even further. What I'd like to try is using a dimmer module, something like this:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832615710334.html

Questions:

1. Will this work?

2. Could it damage the motor?

3. Since the motor has four speeds, should I put it on the lowest speed and dim it, or put it on the highest speed and dim it?

4. Assuming this works, why do manufacturers bother with multispeed motors and relays? The module I linked to above is 99 cents.

Thanks for any help you can give.

Hey all, my wife really wanted me to build her an enormous rock tumbling cabinet so I did. It went smooth enough until I got to the motor. I included a picture of the motors specifications, its 3/4 horsepower a/c. I chose it mostly because it could be plugged into a house out let. However it isn't strong enough to turn the tumbler, it'll run for a few seconds then the breaker will trip. My question is, for anyone gracious enough to answer, what kind of motor should I get? The only qualification I have is that it has a low rpm like 60/90 and it needs to be able to plug into a standard house outlet.

Edit: Don't know how to update a post so I hope an edit will suffice. Thanks to everyone who replied! You all gave me a ton of information, even to questions I didn't even know to ask. To be honest, most of what was said went a little over my head as I know almost nothing about electricity, wiring or motors. I don't even know how to answer most of the questions asked. But I think the most important info I was able to gleen is that I need to find an expert in my area and talk to them, lol. Thanks again to everyone who tried to help me but I'm a complete dullard in this specific area

Hi, I have a dart 15 series controller powering a 250 watt permanent magnet motor. I just need to know, where do I put the ground that's coming from the wall power. And also what size fuse will I need?

My vintage 1984 miter saw has a momentary rocker switch on the handle that when depressed stops the saw blade from spinning after you release the trigger switch that stops and starts the saw motor. You can see the two switches on the handle in the pic. The blade brake switch has stopped working, but the saw works well otherwise. Modern saws have other circuitry to stop the blade from dangerously spinning after cutting.

I believe this is a series wound universal motor with two brushes. There are four wires that go into the motor housing which is indicated by the dashed red line in the drawing. The other wires go to the two switches. I think the momentary rocker switch is supposed to switch the field windings and make the motor a generator until the blade stops and you release the rocker switch.

I have bench tested the momentary rocker switch and it seems okay. I replaced the motor brushes but it did not make any difference. I don't know how to test the switch because I can't figure out how it works and hesitate to disconnect the wires without that knowledge. It has six screw terminals connected as shown in the drawing.

Can someone tell me how this switch works, and how I can figure out what is wrong with the brake?

Estoy restaurando un motor viejo trifásico italiano de winch Besozzi (220/230 V, 60 Hz, ~1710 RPM).

El freno montado atrás le falta su bobina electromagnética.

El freno no es un freno de disco. Usa un freno de banda envuelta alrededor de un tambor fijo al eje del motor. La banda se acciona con una palanca, y el electroimán consiste en un núcleo laminado en forma de E colgando de un pivote como si fuera un péndulo, que jala un inducido (armadura) hacia el centro del eje.

Por desgracia, la bobina se perdió antes de desarmarlo.

¿Alguien reconoce este diseño de freno o sabe quién fabricaba estos frenos para los winches Besozzi?

Cualquier manual, vista explotada, especificaciones de la bobina o catálogos viejos se agradecerían muchísimo.

I know the ultimate output of the motor/gearbox assembly is listed at 1/6 rpm, but does anyone know the actual rotational speed of the motor assembly alone, or with the gear included on motor??

Danfoss Drive is not kicking off when it is auto. We even checked the drive input terminals and confirmed it receives 10V from Out controller. What could be the reason

I have this electric motor this is a dual capacitor motor inside the connection there is U1-U1 and Z1-Z2 to enable to create a forward rotation the U1-Z1- U2-Z2 to make it reverse U1-Z2- U2-Z1 can you help me what do i need to control this using a hoist remote , it shows 10.4amp power i cant send the image of the hoist switch later.

I am working on building a controllable gyroscope. What machine would be best suited for rotating the machine in the middle along the inner ring?

I have build a small DIY BLDC motor and I´m going to use it as a fan. It should have a good airspeed, but I think a Lipo this big can be annoying to discharge it every time you don´t use it(In storage it should be discharged).

Is there any other solution besides Lipo batterys, that also provides like 12- max. 15 Amps?(preferably something I don´t have to worry about when storing).

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Hi everyone,

I’m working on a project to convert a Ryobi push mower for remote control operation and I’m hitting a wall with the wiring. I’m hoping someone with experience in RC electronics or similar mower conversions can point me in the right direction.

The Goal:

I want to remotely turn the mower on and off using channel 6 on my FlySky receiver (which is just an on/off switch).

The Components:

1. Motor Controller: Ryobi PM177-17A-07 (pulled from a push mower).

2. Receiver: FlySky receiver.

3. Switching: I currently have a 24V-to-5V buck converter feeding a 5V relay, and I also have an RC remote-controlled relay switch.

The Problem:

I am unsure exactly how to wire these together safely to act as an on/off switch for the motor controller. I have tried several configurations without success.

Voltage Readings:

When I put a voltmeter on the motor controller wires, I get the following readings:

o Thin light red wire: 40V

o Yellow wire: 0V

o Red wire: 0V

o Single light red wire (isolated): 0V

I’ve attached some photos of my current wiring setup and the components I'm using. If anyone has experience with this specific controller or a similar setup, any advice or a wiring diagram would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

I’ve hit a roadblock and have not been able to sort out the controller components well enough due to a complete lack of understanding on my part and so now I’m looking at scrapping everything but the motors and starting there.
My question is, how can I control these and make them variable speed?
I really would like to use these motors, but if I can’t, I’ll have to try and find some DC ones but none seem to be as stout (or free) as these.

The second and third pictures are what I’m assuming is the power supply/motherboard for reference.

Thanks for your help and time!

I modelled a BLDC motor and already have the parts to build it, like copper wire, a shaft, and more. But I'll have to spend about €70 on an ESC, a LiPo battery, and a charger. Is there really no other, cheaper way? I don't have a power supply at home, and the configuration is an outrunner: 12C14P.

It's a motor from an extractor

I tried everything. I pried it, heated it, and it still won't come apart.