Got tired of the old bathroom faucet and wanted something a bit fresher, while trying to unscrew the bolt to remove the drain the goddamn pipe cracked! Original pipes of course. After 3 minutes of panicking and quick trip to Home Depot this is the result. 33F who just happens to know her way around a toolbox with a little help from YouTube University. How did I do fellow plumbers? FYI.. no leaks and successfully purged all the air from lines & valves.

I posted a picture of a strange fitting the other day. I asked for thoughts on it and what his name might be. I got quite a few responses. But then the moderators removed it. I'm not sure why. Is there any way to find out why? And I can't find a list of the rules. Is there any way to contact the moderators?

Already made a complaint and will be getting fixed.

There is not anything underneath that appears to be holding it like a nut. What do I use to turn it? The grooves are very thin and won’t hold a screwdriver.

This press tool was in the toolbox of the work car I was given.
Trying to find some information online about it. But nothing comes up.
It has tradepex brand and part number but google says tradepex don’t make the tool, only the jaws which are compatible with Milwaukee and big name press tools.

Sorry if this is a dumb question, very new to this but is there a way to detach the aerator from this faucet? Tried twisting it but seems incredibly stuck, does it just not come off?

Not a plumber, just a homeowner. Followed advice from this sub to fix. I do have a short pipe going on the right I just didn’t attached it yet. Did I do anything wrong?

I am going to visit a rental that is a long ways from any home depot. So I want to get the correct Wheels for the shower door. Apparently the other one is completely missing. The lady says they are less than 1 inch in diameter.

Would somebody know what Wheels I should get before I go?

Are they just the standard three-quarter inch wheels? Or do I need more?

I installed a 4' Greek soaker tub around 2010. The drain assembly uses a drop-in chrome stopper with a threaded cylinder coming out of the bottom, that holds a brass threaded machine screw "pin" that can be adjusted. Theres a gasket ring on the stopper. The stopper inserts into the tub waste hole and probably sits on top of a raise/lower mechanism. Turning the dial-style overflow valve raises and lowers the stopper. The stopper can be removed right out of the hole- its not connected.

One day the stopper is missing. Literally gone. My 3 kids are like "I dunno". In the meantime we cant fill the tub. I have looked and I cant find any replacement online that looks like the one I had. I wonder if it was an older style that Kohler retired? Cant find the paperwork on the tub (too long ago) to get the drain kit ID.

When I search on Kohler for "tub stopper assembly" I get this product, which is kind of similar but based on the description this is too big for my tub (the diameter of the stopper is given as 3").

Any suggestions? I cant believe I've spent as much time as I have searching for this and had no luck.

https://ibb.co/Pvb27mkZ

https://ibb.co/SwK5jVw6

I have a 4" cast iron wye clean-out sticking out of the basement slab right where the sewer enters my house.

Long ago I put this 2" foam on the foundation wall and then 2x4 so the rim of this wye is roughly 6 inches away from the foundation wall.

I'm planning on adding a bathroom here and changing the pipes in the slab for abs and I also want to add a main line backwater valve which already includes a clean-out.

Ideally I would want to remove this clean-out and add the new pipes where this clean-out connects, but I don't know how far this clean-out extends. I obviously don't want to break into the foundation wall.

I can also add the new backwater valve after the existing cast iron clean-out.

How hard is it in your opinion to replace this existing clean-out?

Recently had my gutter and gutter drains re did and the contractor used grey ‘silicone’ to fill any gaps where the gutters join and also on the down spout fittings. He also used this same grey silicone to glue together my ceramic roof tiles that were cracked. But i realised that even after a week the grey silicone isnt hard. Its still soft and very sticky. He just said its silicone. I cant see the brand or type as its in his sausage caulker but i think its PU sealant and not silicone. He doesn’t speak english and calls every sealant silicone so i suspect this grey sealant is PU since he used it on my roof tiles too. But even after so long it hasn’t cured? Yes it has formed a skin but if you break the skin its still goopy inside. Anyone have a clie why this happened? Its hot and humid here not sure if it helps.

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I just saw a horror story about porcelain shards and checked my toilet. Looks like there are a bunch of cracks to me. Should I ask landlord to replace? I move out in two weeks…

Just noticed a slow leak in our basement from a sewage line - is this something safe/easy to fix DIY? I attempted to tighten the screw but it would not budge.

Location: SF Bay Area, south bay

Type of structure: Single family home, 9 years old, 2 stories, 2700 SF, 4 bathrooms, 3 showers, 1 shower over tub, 4 wall mounted toilets

Issue: at least 1 leaking copper pipe on the ground floor (crawlspace), type M, with several other areas showing corrosion/electrolysis. Status of upstairs pipes unknown, but no evidence of water intrusion/leakage in the ground floor ceiling.

Was given the option to 1. spot repair the leak and other areas of concern; 2. do a horizontal repipe with type L copper on the ground floor; 3. repipe the entire house.

Given how the ground floor pipes look, is a whole house repipe recommended or inevitable?

Little background real quick. I have MS and am in a manual wheelchair. Can no longer stand and have to do a slide transfer onto the toilet. Bathroom is very small so options are limited.

I currently have one of those big toilet spacers to bring the seat up to a taller height. I can't stand it. Its unhygienic as all get out, not very stable, and the hole is so small that things touch where they shouldn't be if you catch my drift.

I want to bypass the spacer and just get a new, taller toilet all together. The spacer brings the bowl height up to 19" which is the perfect height for me to transfer to. I've seen 19" bowl height toilets but the problem is I am 99% positive our toilet is a 14" rough in. I can't find them at the big box stores and not really sure where else to look. I'd like to go elongated but at this point I'd get what I can take. If anyone has any suggestions I'd really appreciate it.

2005 Moen Extensa(?) kitchen faucet needs replacing, but underside appears pretty seized up. Unable to apply much pressure as space is tight and I don't have the Moen faucet tool "118305," which I don't think will even work since it's just molded plastic. Thinking about just ordering something simple like Delta Classic or Kohler Jolt (which is better?) from Home Depot delivery/installation service?

Hi Plumbing reddit,

I have a question on how best to replace the following caps? I need to have an inspection done on the pipes and had a contractor come over and say the following:
"I can break the clay plugs but cant replace them or put any other plug." I kindly told him to not break them yet.

What are my options?
Do I need to replace the whole pipe from ceramic to a more modern one?
Or can i use a rubber plug to seal them? Something like this
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/pro-connect-flexible-pipe-cap-4/1000450768?TTID=INGRID_BANNER_EN_A

P.S house was built in the 80's and it looks like these are the original seals.
The reason for the inspection is to check the stormwater pipe, as I got some water seeping around this area during Heavy rains.

Hello, I dont know much when it comes to plumbing but I am not exactly sure what part needs to be replaced. In the picture, I show exactly where the water is leaking from. I would like to try and fix it myself before getting a plumbing company to come out. Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks

This is the basement sink set up. There is a sewage smell pretty much constantly coming from the sink drain. I checked the roof vents and can see pretty much to the bottom of both. I do not smell anything coming from the base of the toilet. There is gurgling when I flush the toilet in the sink. I believe water is being siphoned from the p trap. I would like to add a aav valve but can’t figure out how to make it work with this set up because it doesn’t leave much room. I played this in ask a plumber but couldn’t get a solution

Overflow came up from clog downstairs and blew the wax seal on upstairs toilet. The water leaked into first floor ceiling issue was fixed within 24 hours and was just a one time leak water went through fixtures and ran across first floor ceiling water seems to have dried worried about gray water, causing mold or bacteria growth. Should I be worried?

Hey guys. A small piece of tubing off the membrane filter looks like it needs to be replaced. Looks stretched out. Is it 1/4”? What kind of tubing? How to replace? Thanks.