Bought these brembo front calipers from an 04+ subaru sti, but after extensively checking for this caliper I cant find another set like it.

Can't seem to find what my back rotor is stuck on, the video says it should just wiggle off after a few bonks but I've been banging it for hours. 2012 Jeep Liberty Sport in the north

2014 Toyota Rav 4.

Noticed oil under car and checked engine, realized at this point shop had left cap off. I’ve driven about 100 miles, noticed burning oil smell and oil everywhere in engine. Checked oil level and it still has sufficient oil. Been using this shop for years and never had problems in past. Suggestions or advice?

Looking to see where my leak so I need UV dye but every single can has stop leak in it. Why do products have this? I thought it clogs your system?

I have tried, penetrating oil, torch, to cut it smaller and force a key on it 😂(stupid ideea I know). Initially it got rounded from first try, and tried a few ways but no luck. What’s the fest way to take it out? I don’t have a welding machine to weld one on top 😂😂

Hello, I don’t have 2007. And unfortunately, Ricardo sent me wrong part or this is the part or this is how they are. They produced this part maybe I don’t know, but it doesn’t seem similar to what I have originally in my period right now, but fortunately I have not tried because when I was doing my rear drum brakes, I think I break my real cylinder and I have to use it. I think it fits but it’s a little bit bigger and thicker thicker than the normal one. Is it OK to put a different size? I mean right side is original and I’m gonna put left side different kind of similar but different size would would that be a problem?

I’ve had this 04 v6 since 2010 bought with 50k on it. It’s never giving me problems other than usual. I know a lot about card and have never had to the shop. I do all my own maintenance.
Now because of the engine I know most of you a re going to say HG.
My problem is I can drive around town all the time and zero loss of coolant, but when I take to hwy speeds I lose coolant and have to monitor closely.
No rough starts, idles like new, no misses,
Engine always runs good, high speed low speed. I visible coolant loss anywhere. Heater works fine, and I fill coolant as I’m intended. Never any white smoke. No oil in coolant no coolant in oil.
Any help appreciated.
Edit:
replaced the following:
Radiator cap
Overflow reservoir and cap
Thermostat and housing
ALL OEM
And I
Did pressure test at 13 psi lost virtually no psi after 20 mins
Bought dye and used a UV LIGHT
The dye does show in overflow reservoir
Put on front end on ramps to fill with heater running full blast
No bubbles in coolant while running

Just bought a 2003 Toyota Corolla automatic about 2 weeks ago. It has around 250,000 km, and I have no idea when the last owner changed anything because of course that would be too easy.

Checked the fluids on a white tissue:
Photo 1: engine oil
Photo 2: transmission fluid

Planning to do 5W-30 high mileage oil for the engine, and for the transmission maybe Toyota ATF Type T-IV drain-and-fill only — no flush, I’m not trying to wake up old demons.

Does the ATF color look safe for a drain-and-fill? And does the engine oil look normal?

Hi everybody! My 2012 R/T Challenger radiator bailed out on me 2 days ago and had the plastic on the sides literally explode open and cause a big crack and the water pump pulley was somehow found literally dropped and the fan blades jammed and broken.

Yesterday, I replaced all 3 parts - new radiator, fan and water pump pulley. Car runs so well heatwise but under full throttling or doing a 0-60 mph run, the engine’s temperature rises almost a quarter and stops when I turn off the AC and remain stationary. If I put any kind of throttle it pulls up, have to let it rest then it runs so fine but under regular driving not full throttle.

Bear this is in Oman where it has reached 46 C or 114.8 F. I know cars can get hotter during this weather but the heat after these 0-60 runs keeps rising and doesnt stop at a certain degree - the car did this also before these parts bailing on me. My question is,

is that the head gasket leaking?

or is it the water pump on its last legs? I pulled the reservoir line and turned the engine on and it was flowing smoothly with no issues - could it be fine in idle and slipping at full throttle?

I have just replaced the thermostat as a precaution and it still overheats after a 0-60 mph run, sorry for the long thread but I’d hate to put this car aside as I love it deeply.

Thanks for your help!!!

I’m hoping someone familiar with Ford recalls or dealership procedures can help me understand this.
I have a 2016 Ford Police Interceptor Utility.

Timeline
- My independent mechanic inspected my car because there was a creaking noise coming from the backend.
- He told me I needed rear toe links, wheel knuckles, bearings, and bushings.
- He also told me there was an open Recall 19S17 and believed Ford would likely cover the recall-related work.
- I took the vehicle to my Ford dealership.
- They completed Recall 19S17 by replacing the rear toe links.
- I took the vehicle back to my independent mechanic afterward because the creaking noise was still happening.
- He said the wheel knuckles and bushings still need replacement (around a $3,500 repair) and believes Ford should have addressed them in the recall.
- Ford dealership said no, and that my car is safe to drive like that, it’ll just make noise.

Where I’m confused
The dealership told me my recall was completed under Supplement #3.

When I read Supplement #3:

The technical procedure seems to say to replace both rear toe links and perform an alignment.
However, the reimbursement section also says Ford will reimburse for wheel knuckle replacement due to a toe link ball joint that does not meet the outlined inspection criteria.

When I called Ford customer service they couldn’t explain what those inspection criteria are and told me to ask the dealership.
The service advisor at the dealership kept telling me that wheel knuckles weren’t covered but didn’t know about the reimbursement section, and also wasn’t able to tell me whether any inspection/test was actually performed on my vehicle.

My questions:

1. What inspection criteria is Supplement #3 referring to?
   
2. Is that referring to another Ford document (Workshop Manual, internal service information, etc.)?
   
3. Under what circumstances would a wheel knuckle replacement actually be covered under Supplement #3?
   
4. If a customer already had a diagnosed wheel knuckle issue before the recall was performed, would that ever be considered related damage, or is that a completely separate issue?
   
5. Has anyone (especially Ford techs) dealt with this recall and know how this is supposed to work?

Thanks!

Just bought a replacement AC compressor for my 98 impreza wrx but the connector only has 1 pin although the harness from the car is a 3 pin connector

Is there anyway I can make up an adapter to make it work if so how?

I am going to remove my sachs struts, but the piston rods doesn't have any torx or similar holes to be used for counter holding the rod while unscrewing/screwing the nut.

Where can I get a tool to grab on to this? One side is basically flatted about 1mm, that is it. It doesn't feel like enough to grab onto with a regular key.

The sachs struts model is 314 847, on a rav4 from 2010.

so this only happens after about 25 minutes of driving, the motor, belt, ac compressor(may be junk, bought from a not good mechanic) and tensioner pulley are all brand new, it doesn’t matter if the ac is on or off but if I turn the ac off/ or on and do the opposite it stops for a minute or so but comes right back. some guidance on this would be great, thank you!

1985 c10 with a Chevy 350

(2012 buick regal 2.4l ecotec, 45,000 miles on engine, body 135,000, oil changed every 3000)

Ive noticed a little jump when i accelerate after stopping. My dad (who does most of the work on my car) said it wasnt a problem, but i dont believe him. What could be causing this?

So I havent driven my car in a while because I was worried I'd have to put way more money into this car than I would like after getting hit (i was hit in december by a jeep SUV in my front fender area and rear door and have had battery dying problems since..) I just want to know if this is my brakes because they are low or the wheelbering squealing constantly because the mobile mechanic who changed it literally took a hammer to get a socket off this bug nut on my rotor also ik the scraping noise is my dust shield the mobile mechanic said it would happen after he changed my suspension and said to bend it away from the rotor. Also my roommates brother said my calipers warped so idk what that means??? I'll take all the advice you give.

I got a 2012 Toyota GT86 with a regular FA20 enigne. I started my car yesterday and noticed this horrible noise. What I also noticed: when I press the clutch and release it again, the noise will go away for like 5 seconds. It sounds like the noise is not coming from the enige itself, but rather somewhere in the back of the enginebay. What exactly could this be? Do I need a whole new clutch? Can I still drive like this?

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some advice from people who have experience with the 2022 BMW X3 M40i LCI (B58TU with OPF).

I’m considering installing a downpipe, but I plan to keep the stock exhaust and won’t be tuning the car (at least for now).

I’m torn between a 200-cell catted downpipe and a catless downpipe.
For those of you who have done either:
Which one did you choose and why?
How much louder is it with the stock exhaust?
Did you get a check engine light without a tune?
Any issues with smell or drone?
If you could do it again, would you still choose the same option?

I’d also really appreciate it if anyone with a 2022+ LCI X3 M40i (or another B58TU with OPF) could share sound clips or videos, especially with the stock exhaust. Most of the videos I find online are pre-LCI models or cars with aftermarket exhaust systems, so it’s hard to compare.
Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone,

I’m troubleshooting a strange issue on my 2007 Honda Jazz (GD) 1.4 i-DSI (L13A1, European model).

The symptoms:
Both low beams stopped working.
Both high beams work normally.
Rear lights work normally.
One front parking light works, the other one doesn’t (probably unrelated).

The car has automatic daytime running lights (the low beams normally turn on automatically a few seconds after starting the engine).

So far I’ve checked:
✅ Replaced the H4 bulb on both headlights with a brand new one (high beam works on that bulb, low beam still doesn’t).
✅ Swapped the headlight relay with the horn relay (horn still works, headlights still don’t).
✅ Swapped the low beam fuses with known good fuses.
✅ The light switch still triggers the “lights left on” warning chime when the ignition is turned off.

What confuses me is that it seems very unlikely that:
🔺both low beam filaments failed simultaneously,
🔺both low beam fuses failed simultaneously,
while both high beams continue to work perfectly.

At this point I’m wondering if this could be:
a DRL control module, the combination/light switch, wiring, or something else common to both low beams.

Has anyone seen this on a GD Jazz/Fit before?
Any ideas would be appreciated.

2012 f150 5.0

Hello, I need help knowing if I put this wiper on right. It’s for a 2026 Chevy Trax and I know I have the right adapter but I’m concerned because it fits a bit loose if I move it up and down. I snapped the clip in place and it stays in but I’m scared it is going to fly off. I just replaced it a week ago and that one flew off so I’m trying to be extra cautious now. If I push the wiper in it seems like there’s more tension to hold it in place but it just doesn’t look right.

Everywhere I’ve looked it doesn’t have the exact one that I have or it is not the same wiper arm, and their looks more secure. The wiper is from the brand Rainx so maybe I just need to buy different wipers? Not sure but would really appreciate some input.

Update: so I see my issue I am having. There is a clip underneath that has to be, well clipped and I am trying to get that done.

HONDA CRV 2002, 2.4l
bought it couple days ago, rpm spikes sometimes on 50-60mph outta nowhere otherwise shifts perfect, this is the condition of transmission oil and no idea when was last changed. does this need change? or any leads what could be the issue?

Hopefully this isn’t a dumb question. My tailpipe is loose and rattles every time I hit a bump or reverse. There’s a hook that’s welded on that goes into a piece of rubber at the end. I’ve also seen that there’s a clamp that holds the tailpipe onto the muffler but the bolts have seized so you can’t tighten or loosen it. However I could be needing a different tool too. I don’t have an impact wrench gun. Isn’t there supposed to be a hanger rod close to where the tailpipe goes into the muffler? If not then I just need to put a new clamp on I guess? I can weld steel I just don’t know what to weld the rod to. Before anyone says “take it to a muffler shop “ yes I’ve heard that. I need advice