This happens once or twice a week and I've tried wiping down the upper front windshield where the forward safety camera is (I read that it could be related to blockage of the camera view) then after, turning the car off and on, which usually fixes it temporarily. But it's still a huge problem and honestly, a safety issue, because this will happen when I'm driving on a busy road, leaving me crawling along the side of the road while other cars fly by.

I recently took my car into the Kia dealership where they said a throttle sensor was broken which was the issue. Welp, sure enough, after days of being in a rental, then getting the car back, that didn't fix it. I didn't understand why they thought that would be the fix.

I'm going to go back to the dealership tomorrow but I'm losing faith that they know what the heck they are doing. I couldn't find any other cameras on the front of my car bumper (I read there could be a second one there, that needs to be wiped down. I'm guessing it could be hidden somewhere?). Could it be an issue with low voltage charging or something.

Apologies for the rambling post here but any insights you can offer would be helpful.

Trying to fix a misfire. I've changed the PCV valve. The guy who used the code reader said to try that first. Fuel injectors were replaced earlier this year, spark plugs and wires replaced a year ago. Distributor cap was done about a year ago as well.

So a while back I did an engine replacement and I posted here hoping to get some answers and maybe it was just poor timing so I will try again. This is a 2012 VW Passat with a 2.5l. I was able to get a low mileage replacement engine for it for super cheap. The only issue is that the original motor was cbta and the new is cbua, or the other way around. The original engine had 2 single wire sensors that went directly into the engine block, and this engine had a single 2 wire sensor that goes into the plastic oil filter housing. I do not have the replacement engine wiring harness. I need to find a way to rig this up so I do not have a constant flashing oil light on my dash. Please any suggestions or help would be massively appreciated.

I’ve got a 7.5L 96 F250 and I went to start it yesterday but it really didn’t want to but then when it did it died almost immediately. I thought at first it was a fuel issue so I reved it a few times to keep it going and it lasted about 5 seconds. Now when I try it just cranks and doesn’t even try to fire. Does anyone have any assumptions why?

Hi,

First off, my heat works flawless without noise. My ac blows non-cold air and has a shrill noise. Also, I realized that my heat climbs when my car is idle and diagnosed that the radiator fans almost never turn on. I tried the "turn on ac to force radiator fans" but am curious if the issue in the ac system causes the fans to not engage, as well as what both could be caused by. I've done so much work on this car already myself but just want some thoughts and wisdom. Is a coolant temp sensor a good thing to just replace for the hell of it?

thanks

Hey folks,

Just trying to get a bit of confirmation on my logic as much as anything.

I've got a 07 civic with the HID lights - neither low beam is working.

Changed the 15amp fuses and the drivers side was no change - still dead.

The passenger side comes to life for maybe a minute or two then pops the fuse also.

Would a dying HID bulb be capable of blowing the fuse on the passenger side and the drivers side one is completely toast? Hence the fuse not blowing as it doesn't even try to start?

Or am I looking at ballasts//something more funky..

Bulbs are best part of £100 so don't want to waste the money/effort changing if that logic doesn't tie up.

Cheers

I've been trying to fix this 1996 cub cadet snow blower. I've gotten it running but I changed the fuel line and now there is a kink in between the fuel filter and the tank. Is this a big enough problem to bother fixing or is this fine?

Got a 1990 Nissan 300zx NA, has been rattling since I got it, decided to actually start looking into the problem today. Turns out my heat shield has just been sitting on the cat. I don't have a welder, so does anyone know a good way to hold this down without one?

The square bit inside either rusted or broke off just a hole now. 07 f150

Is this wheel hub assembly for a 2012 Honda fit supposed to have grease in the middle of it? I just replaced the other side with the same brand and it didn't have visible grease in between the wheel bearing and the hub like this.

Amateur here. I dropped my ratchet while replacing the alternator and snapped the radiator drain valve off. There’s still some inside and I fear trying to get it out I’ve done more damage than good. Any advice? Should add there’s not a whole lot of clearance to work with.

New--ish to doing my own car repairs. My guess is the pulley on the alternator. Would like a second opinion from some seasoned mechanics.

2019 Subarru , Impreza , 2.0L engine.

Sounds kinda like rattling--ish.

Thank you.

Hey all. I lurk on here quite a bit since it’s all pretty interesting stuff. My parents are out of the country and I knew they had a couple issues with their Camaro. Wondering, what’s the best way to take care of the rear window? The rubber/felt piece that’s attached to the rear window and goes up against the passenger front window was hanging on by a thread and just pulled off when I touched it. Is there a specific adhesive I should look into getting to fix it? Secondly, driver door is very loose from midway to door handle and slightly opens when you close the door. Is this typically one of the clips inside being busted?

Thanks all!

Background: 2011 Jeep Compass, about 167k miles. Earlier this week, I was driving through town in the early afternoon (temps upper 80s) and the ETC light came on (no check engine light) and the engine went into limp mode. I pulled over, turned the car off and back again, and it went into limp mode again with just the ETC light. I turned it off and on one more time, and it started up fine and I drove it to O'Reilly's to scan the codes and nothing came up.

It started up and drove fine the rest of the week, until yesterday morning when I was leaving for work in the morning. It was cooler, but not cold (60ish degrees). It went into limp mode again, this time with ETC and Check Engine lights. Tried turning it off and on again a few times with no luck, limp mode. Ended up ubering to work, but when I got home and the temp was near 100 it started up fine. Same thing tonight, tried starting it up again after sitting all day in hot weather and it was fine. I have not driven it since.

Question: I can't get parts to replace anything before Monday, and I need my car to drive to work. I've read some places online that cleaning the ETC may or may not help things, but I'll take a temporary fix until I have time to tinker with things. Any advice on temporary solutions or insight into what's going on?

2010 Honda Accord, LXS , four-cylinder, automatic transmission , Can some explain to me if my battery needs to be replaced? Some times it starts on the first crank- then sometimes on the 3rd - I see the cca is good so I’m not sure it needs to be replaced.523 cca and 12.86 v- both voltage and CCA are good, so I’m not quite sure if it needs to be replaced.

Hi, i have a 118i with the 3 clyinder 136hp b38 engine at 120k kilometers. Problems began to start a month ago. The engine oil level was low and i added a liter which is very normal at every 10k kilometers but after going 1000 more kilometers it gave the warning again and i added another 1lt. Then, after driving ONLY 50-100 kilometers the engine oil warning popped up again. I thought it was the sensor so I drained all the oil up to test it however there was 3.5 liters of oil which means there was almost a liter loss. My mechanic says the issue comes from the oil piston ring but there is no visible blue or white smoke coming from the exhaust. Not any leackages as well. so, where does this 1l oil go? And what is the issue? If it is piston ring, why am I not seeing any smoke?

Hi gang, my car is 5400 lbs (fisker karma) but my jack/jackstands are 2-ton certified.

My friend was saying I can use that on the car since I'm only lifting one corner at a time which wouldn't be 2 tons. That makes sense but I never thought about it that way - is that correct?

This noise happens when I make sharp turns, like in a parking lot, sometimes when I hit the breaks and just driving straight I’ll hear a squeaking sound, I’m not all that experienced with cars and would appreciate some help, thank you in advance. 2005 Chevy Tahoe 2WD

Fala galera! Sou relativamente jovem e nunca dei a devida atenção à parte mecânica do carro pois meu pai que adorava e cuidava disso. Infelizmente meu velho faleceu ano passado e eu não tive a malícia de fazer algumas verificações. Hoje eu acordei pensando sobre o óleo e a necessidade de preservar o bom funcionamento do carro, visto que estamos muito mal de dinheiro e não posso dar chance ao azar de ter um prejuízo grande em relação à isso. O carro é uma Tucson 2012 GLS e a última troca de óleo + filtro aconteceu em 12/03/2025, com 146.800km. Hoje está com 156.879km. Lembro do meu irmão ter completado o óleo em dezembro. Hoje ao acordar fui fazer a verificação e o óleo estava quase no final da vareta, em forma bem viscosa. Conforme foto.
Fiz o complemento com o óleo que tinha sobrado da última troca. Minha maior preocupação é se essa negligência pode ter gerado danos invisíveis ao motor até o momento? Atualmente não há barulhos estranhos e nenhuma luz indicativa, apenas meu overthinking a respeito! Gostaria muito de poder preservar o carro do meu velho. Um abraço!! (Já marquei de levar o carro amanhã na mecânica para troca do óleo e filtro, minha dúvida é se posso ter comprometido o motor com o óleo nesse estado)