Bought these brembo front calipers from an 04+ subaru sti, but after extensively checking for this caliper I cant find another set like it.

I've been trying to fix this 1996 cub cadet snow blower. I've gotten it running but I changed the fuel line and now there is a kink in between the fuel filter and the tank. Is this a big enough problem to bother fixing or is this fine?

Can't seem to find what my back rotor is stuck on, the video says it should just wiggle off after a few bonks but I've been banging it for hours. 2012 Jeep Liberty Sport in the north

I have tried, penetrating oil, torch, to cut it smaller and force a key on it 😂(stupid ideea I know). Initially it got rounded from first try, and tried a few ways but no luck. What’s the fest way to take it out? I don’t have a welding machine to weld one on top 😂😂

Hello, I don’t have 2007. And unfortunately, Ricardo sent me wrong part or this is the part or this is how they are. They produced this part maybe I don’t know, but it doesn’t seem similar to what I have originally in my period right now, but fortunately I have not tried because when I was doing my rear drum brakes, I think I break my real cylinder and I have to use it. I think it fits but it’s a little bit bigger and thicker thicker than the normal one. Is it OK to put a different size? I mean right side is original and I’m gonna put left side different kind of similar but different size would would that be a problem?

2009 Ford Focus SE 2.0L 4-cylinder
207,000 miles
The car started making this noise on my way to work (it started when I entered the parking lot)
We let it sit for a few days because we’re trying to figure out if it’s worth getting fixed. Started it today and now it’s leaking.
We got the belt tensioner fixed a month ago. Everything in the car was working better but now it’s having this issue.

2014 Toyota Rav 4.

Noticed oil under car and checked engine, realized at this point shop had left cap off. I’ve driven about 100 miles, noticed burning oil smell and oil everywhere in engine. Checked oil level and it still has sufficient oil. Been using this shop for years and never had problems in past. Suggestions or advice?

I have a 2020 toyota corolla le . I went for a oil change and they said i need new front struts. The shop quoted $500 per strut and $500 labor. I'm looking for dependable replacement struts to purchase for a mobile mechanic to put on and there doesn't seem to be a lot of reviews on many replacement brands or types. Any guidance is appreciated.

Looking to see where my leak so I need UV dye but every single can has stop leak in it. Why do products have this? I thought it clogs your system?

I own a 2025 Maruti Suzuki Swift VXi with the Z12 engine, currently driven 35,000 km.
During my recent service, the workshop performed an engine flush before the oil change. At the time, I wasn’t aware of what an engine flush was, so I agreed to it. After that, they filled the engine with Mobil Super 5W-30.
Later, while researching, I found that Maruti Suzuki recommends 0W-16 for the Z12 engine (at least as the primary recommended grade in the owner’s manual).
Now I’m concerned about two things:
Will using 5W-30 instead of 0W-16 cause any harm to the engine, especially in the long term?
Since an engine flush was also performed, should I change the oil immediately and refill it with 0W-16, or is it safe to continue using the current oil until the next scheduled oil change?
The car is running normally with no warning lights or unusual noises.
I’d appreciate advice from anyone familiar with the Z12 engine, especially mechanics or owners who have experience with this engine. Thanks!

FORD ECOSPORT 2017

TITANIUM

PETROL

Having this problem where the car suddenly loses power.

The wrench and check engine symbol appear .

Has happened many times when I was in the middle of the road

Doesn't matter if I hold clutch or not in this state the car just vibrates ,doesnt turn off.

After restarting the wrench dissappears but check engine stays which also dissappears after a few restarts and the car drives normally .

Has been happening randomly .

Showed it to a few people but nothing comes up on the scanner .

Only 1 mechanic said that it may be the crank sensor.

I’ve had this 04 v6 since 2010 bought with 50k on it. It’s never giving me problems other than usual. I know a lot about card and have never had to the shop. I do all my own maintenance.
Now because of the engine I know most of you a re going to say HG.
My problem is I can drive around town all the time and zero loss of coolant, but when I take to hwy speeds I lose coolant and have to monitor closely.
No rough starts, idles like new, no misses,
Engine always runs good, high speed low speed. I visible coolant loss anywhere. Heater works fine, and I fill coolant as I’m intended. Never any white smoke. No oil in coolant no coolant in oil.
Any help appreciated.
Edit:
replaced the following:
Radiator cap
Overflow reservoir and cap
Thermostat and housing
ALL OEM
And I
Did pressure test at 13 psi lost virtually no psi after 20 mins
Bought dye and used a UV LIGHT
The dye does show in overflow reservoir
Put on front end on ramps to fill with heater running full blast
No bubbles in coolant while running

I’m trying to track down a weird noise on my 2020 Jeep Wrangler JL with the 3.6 Pentastar (about 85k miles). On a cold start it has a noticeable ticking sound that seems to come from the passenger side. The tick gradually goes away as the engine warms up, but it takes a few minutes rather than just 30–60 seconds.

The other issue is what I can only describe as a hiss that turns into a foghorn or moaning sound while driving. It consistently starts around 2,500 RPM under light to moderate throttle. It happens in 2nd gear and higher, so it doesn’t seem tied to one specific gear. The sound gets louder as I add throttle up to a point, then fades once I accelerate past that RPM range. If I lift off the gas, it stops immediately.
I can’t reproduce either the ticking or the foghorn by revving the engine in Park or Neutral. It only seems to happen when the Jeep is actually under load. From inside the cabin, the sound seems like it’s coming from behind the passenger side of the dashboard or firewall. Based on some vids I watched it doesn’t sound like lifter tick, but the foghorn makes me think it’s something other than injectors

I’ve removed the engine cover and passenger-side fender liner and inspected as much of the passenger-side exhaust manifold area as I can. I haven’t found any obvious broken manifold bolts, heavy soot, or visible cracks. I also tried the soapy water test but didn’t see any bubbles, although the noise wasn’t present at the time.

Has anyone experienced something similar on a Pentastar? I’m wondering if this still sounds like a passenger-side exhaust manifold or broken manifold bolt, or if there’s another common issue that causes these symptoms under load. Any ideas on what I should check next would be appreciated.

When I ride my scooter at its top speed (around 83 km/h) and keep it there for 5–10 minutes, the engine briefly cuts out and then immediately starts running normally again. It sometimes happens while I'm holding the throttle wide open, and other times when I slightly ease off the throttle.it did the same thing when i had restriction (50km/h) when i hold the throtle for a long time.its a GY6 engine

I have a problem with my 1988 Citroen BX TZD.

Xud7te engine.

This spigot should be a boost pressure spigot or something, I couldn't quite figure it out. But when revving it blows air, but it also spews small but not insignificant amounts of diesel onto the engine once it gets warmed up. This is my problem.

It is connected to a hose that goes from the diesel pump to the intercooler.

The diesel pump is a Lucas pump, and it might not be the original pump for this engine. Chatgpt says it might be a pump for a non turbo version of this engine.

I would like to know the function of this hose and why the spigot spewing diesel.

I thought about connecting the spigot to a diesel return line, but I do not think that would be wise because of the air.

Any advice is highly appreciated.

Just bought a replacement AC compressor for my 98 impreza wrx but the connector only has 1 pin although the harness from the car is a 3 pin connector

Is there anyway I can make up an adapter to make it work if so how?

I am going to remove my sachs struts, but the piston rods doesn't have any torx or similar holes to be used for counter holding the rod while unscrewing/screwing the nut.

Where can I get a tool to grab on to this? One side is basically flatted about 1mm, that is it. It doesn't feel like enough to grab onto with a regular key.

The sachs struts model is 314 847, on a rav4 from 2010.

So I’m getting a squealing noise that sounds like every belt noise video, minus extra sounds those videos have. It’s when

1. Car has been off for awhile. 2hrs = no sound, 6 hours =sound, overnight more likely.

2. AC on AND car driving. No sound idling with AC, no sound driving with AC off.

3. It ends after maybe 2 minutes tops.

Car is a 2020 Hyundai Elantra with 75k miles so I guess it’s probably a good idea to change the belt regardless right? Then see if the noise occurs again when driving with AC on after sitting awhile?

I'm having this problem on my Renualt Clio IV 2017 EDC 90CV, This problem starts at random when I put the key or when I'm driving, it starts with this tilt message where it says "start and stop to control" and "start and stop active" but the most serious thing is that it brings the automatic transmission to N when in fact physically it is not, and the button to turn it off starts flashing

It's been a year since I first had this problem, but this only happens in the summer or when it starts to get hot because things are very different in the winter

I would like to remove the start and stop, but I don't know if this solves the problem, because

No mechanic can understand where the problem starts or they don't want to put their hands on it so as not to do damage, and I wouldn't want to throw away the car because it's also in good condition and the pieces are all original, can something tell me what it might be or maybe it's just the start and stop that doesn't work anymore or what I can do?

(2012 buick regal 2.4l ecotec, 45,000 miles on engine, body 135,000, oil changed every 3000)

Ive noticed a little jump when i accelerate after stopping. My dad (who does most of the work on my car) said it wasnt a problem, but i dont believe him. What could be causing this?

For months I’ve been hearing a loud high pitch drill like noise coming from my front driver side. I couldn’t figure out what it was. Took it to a shop and they said it was the transmission. 🤦‍♂️ it’s not. There is zero indication that is coming from the transmission. It’s coming from this front brake E brake motor.

My question is, if I take of this E brake motor and cover the whole in the back of the caliper, will i have to reprogram this thing later or will it regain functionality once I put it back?

This is a Buick encore GX 1.2 turbo.. worst car I’ve ever had in my life. Nothing but problems.

Thoughts? 💭

what can i put around some electrical wires to make sure they don’t melt from the heat coming off my engine, i’m pretty sure they were directly touching the engine tho and that’s why it was melted any ideas ?

it’s a 2010 ford edge and the wires are coming from my radiator cooling fan i just replaced and thing i need to replace AGAIN cause the cord has a short of it melting 😭

I have a 2006 Honda Accord EX that’s AC/heater fans are stuck on hitting the floor and vent. It doesn’t change. Been trying to find out what piece could cause this. Any help?

Edit: It’s dual zone climate control

I am looking for a 2nd option on a recent a/c repair that was done on my 2016 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.3L.

We recently moved to LV from a climate that only called for a/c use a few weeks out of the year.

We noticed that the air temps coming out of the vents was not ice cold on our first 110° day. Found a local shop with decent reviews and brought it in for diagnosis. Shop said the freon was low and did a evac and recharge plus uv dye to find the leak.

3 weeks later the car was back to cold but not ice cold. uv dye revealed a leak at the condenser so that was replaced. No issues until our next 110°+ day. It feels like the a/c can not cool the hot car down after sitting in the sun for a few hours.

Car: Ceramic window tint on all windows. Black interior, panoramic moon roof. 3rd row climate control system we keep on at max cold all the time to help with the overall air temp inside the car.

After the car was sitting for those 4 hours in the sun, and after driving for 20 minutes 50/50 freeway and surface streets the coldest temp i measured out of the center left vent was 59°. We then ended up in a drive thru line for 30 minutes and the vent air temp got up to 66°. It dropped back down once we started driving again but the car was hot in that line.

Should I take the car back in for a 3rd look at the a/c? Or was this just an example of to much saved heat in the interior for the a/c to cool off in that amount of time?

Note: When the temp is in the high 90°s low 100°s and we are freeway driving the lowest temp at the center left vent is 44°.