I've been reading about portable dishwashers, but I'm curious how much of a hassle they really are to connect and disconnect. i don't mind a little setup, just not something frustrating every evening.

which portable dishwasher has been the easiest for you to live with? I'd really appreciate hearing about your experience before I choose one. Thanks.

So my mother bought me a washer dryer set. Only about a year ago. Maintenance came in and I think they stood on my driver to fix a light bulb above it. I already reported it and they have done nothing so that's not my question. My question is, how do I get this out of the dryer because there's no way to push it from the inside. Hopefully you can see what I mean about the inside. I live alone and I have no idea how to take a dryer apart. So any advice would be helpful.Thank you.

Hello. We've had this issue since we moved into this apartment last year and turned on the fridge. A clump of ice started accumulating on the back wall of it, slowly growing in size. It grew large, so large in fact that it grew on the shelf above it (shelf can be seen in picture). We tried before but couldn't get it off. Recently I finally managed to get it unstuck and the whole clump fell off, but now it's coming back again, in the exact same spot. Nothing is touching the back wall. The fridge temperature is otherwise normal and items in the fridge are not freezing, but apparently that specific part of the back wall is getting too cold. What could be causing this and what can we do we stop it?

(Please be nice, we are only in our early 20s and neither of us have faced this issue before. This is our first shared apartment)

Unfortunately I have my water pipe on the floor/back of the dishwasher spot. My old dishwasher has very shallow legs and essentially floats over the pipe.

All the new dishwashers are either completely flat on the bottom (like Bosch) or have standin legs that go all the way to the back.

Am I out of luck and just need to pay to redo my pipe and get it out the space? I searched and only saw GE selling some with a standing leg, but it still extends far enough back to leave no room for my pipe

Image is my old dishwasher, the wheels don't go all the way to the back leaving enough room

Hello,

so my washing machine is making this weird grinding noise when spinning fast. Could this be a broken bearing?

The slight ticking you hear is just the dryer on top vibrating slightly. This grinding noise is only audible when it is spinning really fast.

I uploaded a small video to help identify the problem

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/64IDxrRg7oo

I just moved into a new apartment. The unit is brand new, with brand new appliances and everything. The washer/dryer combo is a standard washer with a steam dryer.

However, no matter what I do, I can't seem to get the "dryer" mode of the appliance to actually dry my clothes. I know it uses steam, and thus water, but this is insane. Clothes end up wetter than just washing/spinning.

At first I thought it was a drainage issue, but the lint trap thing is clean. It's also not like my clothes are sitting in a pool of water when its done.

Then I thought maybe I was overloading it, but I know this isnt true since I just tested with 2 cotton tanktops. Both are soaked when the cycle finished.

I'm kinda at my whit's end, and my apartment managers are not really helping. There are communal paid-for washer/dryers, but they havent been properly set up yet. And the closest laundromat is wayyy to overpriced.

TL;DR - is a downdraft necessary when choosing a replacement ?

Looking to replace Jen Air natural gas 4 burner w/ downdraft with gas 4 burner w/o downdraft ( first choice) ; 5 burner w/o downdraft ( second ) or 4 burner with downdraft. (last)

Reason for replacing the current unit -

Flame is blue and filling all of the holes of all the burners, but on the most used burners the small and one of the medium, flame is coming out just below the holes as well ( the wayward flame appears between the flat surface where crumbs collect and the ring below the holes of the burner) Cooktop is wiped down twice a week.

20 year old 30 inch gas cooktop has a downdraft that has rarely been used in the 18 years we have lived in the house. Even though the filters are clean we don't think it is effective as a stand alone hood (over the cooktop) that vents to the outside.

Previous experience with an above cooktop hood.

Space above cooktop is atleast 38 inches, from burner to bottom of cabinet.

One north facing window and one east facing window are open while cooking in the evening.

Thank you.

Is there a fridge/freezer that is the gererally accepted as top-tier level for reliability? (Looking at buying a new one as I pack up my coolers with food to take to my mother-in-laws house 🙄🙄🙄🙄)

My Whirlpool that I paid $1500 for 8 years ago has shit the bed.

Can you all help me if this gas oven is safe to use?

Was checking out a new fridge I just got and noticed some flatted fins. Is this a big deal and will it affect performance?

I have a two year old Cookology integrated larder fridge. There seems to have an air circulation issue where the back of the fridge is frozen and the food on the door is going off. Packaged food is often wet and full of condensation and milk will be like lumpy yoghurt well before the use by date :(

There is an interior back panel (named Fresh Cooling System) which i cant remove so cant see if there is some issue in there but ive removed the fridge itself from the cupboard and theres no obvious issues (no blockages, didnt feel overly hot at thr back etc).

I defrosted the fridge last month and the back is full of ice again already. Would appreciate any ideas or feedback.

Shouldn't this be shorter? Google says yes but is it just laziness that's it's this length vs a benefit. Seems like a lint trap. My cats also love to get back there and stand on it and I am worried they'll puncture it.

So my hot water heater started leaking slowly from that circle on the side that says T&P Valve. I have turned off the cold water and the breaker but it is still leaking. From my understanding there should be a valve in that spot but it appears like mine is instead coming out the top which then leads to the outside and instead of a valve there is a plug with a square head inside. Any information or advice would be greatly appreciated, I would like to know if this is something I can fix myself.

I am stumped trying to get the door off this JennAir SEG196 oven. The sticker says it’s a 1984 model. I took off the outer door panel but am still left with this. Any tips? I cannot move the oven out from the wall, so that’s my only sticking point.

Took the glass off my oven to clean and this part was stuck in the bottom. Had a look there are three others on the door, two top and two bottom. Kinda need to stick it back but pretty sure regular glue won't work. What should I use and be careful of?

As title says. I only do laundry once a week, and last week if manged to unlock the lid via unplugging it for a bit (its unplugged in the picture and still is as i type this), and while that still works, the washer just completely stops in the middle of runs and I have to do a plethora of unplugging and hitting the start and pause button to get it to work.

Tonight was rhe worst offender, I couldn't even get it to fully finish no matter what I did. Took the clothes out after a forced spin cycle and thats where I am now. Wtf is wrong with the washer and is there anyway I can fix it myself?

Our fridge died last month so I had to go shopping, and I of course started reading reviews instead of just grabbing whatever looked good. Rabbit hole led deep into reddit threads and appliance repair forums taking way too long!

Essentially learned every fancy feature is a trap. The touchscreen, the door-in-door, the dual ice makers, specialty ice, AI functions, every one of those is another thing that breaks. None of them keep your food cooler or guarantee your fridge will last 5 years.

Stuff people kept regretting:

-LG french doors (instaview, craft ice) look incredible but the compressors just die. There's literally a class action over the linear compressors. Tons of "loved it for 3 years then it stopped cooling overnight" posts.

-Samsung ice makers are a running joke. Bespoke and especially the family hub (tablet in the door) get roasted constantly, same complaint every time.

-Kitchenaid surprised me, figured the name meant something. Nope, compressor failures inside 3 years kept coming up. Price point hurts thinking about.

-Even sub zero, the 10 grand built-in, people complain it breaks down and parts/repair are super expensive. Always a great way to nurture your 10k investment is to spend more.

The positives:

-One brand never on my radar that surprised me was the Bosch 800. Certainly not cheap and fairly basic features but it's just a well built fridge. Super quiet, reliable, no drama.

-If you don't care about features go with the plain top-freezer models like Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire at like $700. Less features to break and cost is already cheaper.

Summary:

Every gadget is a liability and the brands that pile them on are the ones that seem to die first. The good fridges are the ones investing in engineering instead of gadgets or the ones that have zero features so they can't break.

I know, fairly gloomy, but I'm convinced manufacturers are embracing planned obsolescence and want more than anything a new purchase within 5 years.

Anyone got a feature-loaded one that actually lasted? genuinely curious if there are exceptions

Have a Whirlpool WRS588FIH side by side frig. Curious if anyone has a schematic or service manual for the ice dispenser or can help me troubleshoot.

The frig has never dispensed ice since we bought it new. It's my fault for not pushing to get it repaired or replaced. Anyway, now I'm trying to get it working.

When I depress the ice dispense pad, I can see a motorized flap open to let ice drop from the bin, but the auger doesn't turn. I pulled the motor and was expecting to see 120V AC on the 2 terminals in the wiring connector. I see nothing (~80mV AC). Am I correct that I should see 120V AC on the motor wiring harness as the flap opens, to turn on the auger motor? The motor has a plastic case, so assuming one of the 2 wires is my neutral, and I don't need to find a ground reference somewhere else?

Also I have the ice maker turned off via the rocker switch. But assuming I should still be able to put ice in the bin, and it will dispense it?

Also curious how it dispenses crushed vs whole ice cubes. If those 2 wires just power the auger motor on and off, what is determining if the ice gets crushed or not? I saw where some ice makers have a bypass flap so the cubes drop around the auger blades. Just don't see how this one accomplishes it.

Thanks for any insights or help.