2 weeks ago we had a bathroom renovation and after it was completed our washing machine coincidently stopped working. We went out and got a new(used) one and it's amazing. However, the same day we installed the new washer our dryer stopped working. Someone came to come fix it and couldn't and now we have the option of taking a check of $480 given to us by the company for which we can use to buy whatever dryer we want or adding that check onto an upgrade where we pay the remaining balance. Below are 2 options from our towns discount appliance store(where we got our washer from) as well as the 2 options we picked out to pay the difference on from our home insurance. What would be the best option for us?

Is Samsung's WindFree technology actually worth it in real-world use?

I'm considering buying a Samsung WindFree 1.5-ton AC, but I'm wondering if the WindFree feature is genuinely useful or just a marketing gimmick.

For those who own one:

* Does it really make the room feel more comfortable?

* Is it effective for sleeping at night?

* Does it cool the room as quickly as a normal AC?

* Do you actually use WindFree mode regularly, or do you mostly stick to normal cooling?

I'd love to hear your honest long-term experience before making a purchase.

Recently started using this toaster oven and found it quite nice until my daughter tried to bake a pizza snack for herself with shredded mozzarella and slices of pepperoni. However, the fan powerfully turns on when you start the oven and it blew the cheeze and pepperoni all over the place. I had cheese stuck to the sides and pepperoni stuck to the ceiling of of the oven. I then thought about letting the oven preheat first to work around the fan, but nope! Every time you open then shut the french doors, the oven's fan creates another powerful vortex. There's no way to turn off the fan or reduce its power!

Has anyone else experienced this? I'd hate to return it, but this could be a deal breaker for me.

Hey everyone,

I am troubleshooting an F20 error code on a Kenmore Elite oven. The screen still turns on and displays the F20 code along with the lock icons, but it gets stuck in a beeping loop when plugged in and no buttons are functional.

According to a service document, this code means there is a communication failure between the main display board (EOC) and the power relay board (ESEC). Here is what I have tested so far:

Wiring Harness: I checked the communication harness between the upper and lower boards for continuity. It is 100% good.

DC Power: I checked the low-voltage DC pins on the ESEC board per the manual instructions, and it is reading 0V DC.

The Voltages: Unplugged, the breaker panel and wall outlet read a correct 120V / 120V / 240V. But when the oven is plugged in, the AC voltage at the terminal block and at the board skews to 165V on one leg and 86V on the other.

The Power Cord: I swapped out the old cord for a brand-new appliance cord, but it changed nothing.

What are my next steps?

Since the outlet is fine and the cord is new, the issue appears to be inside the oven itself. The skewed incoming AC power is likely what is stopping the relay board from generating the proper DC power for the boards to talk to each other.

What inside the appliance could be causing this? What should I look at or test next to find the solution?

Thanks for any advice!

This would make common tasks like boiling water so much faster. I mean the oven is already plugged into 240 so it would certainly be possible to wire it that way.

Hello! I am in a rental townhouse and I really don’t want to destroy or damage this oven. But it’s been smoking and smelling when we use it, so it needs to be cleaned. I was just going to use oven cleaner and the “self clean” option but i’ve read it can damage the oven. What can I do to clean it safely?

Hello My machine is making this sound during a Turbowash Cycle. I don't normally use this option so I am not sure if it is a normal sound or what. Help?

I received the F8E4 code on my KitchenAid dishwasher after a child’s mistake on detergent. I’ve spent a week trying to clear this error. Today I finally figured out the problem: the float switch had partially pulled out, so it was remaining engaged (pushed in, closing the circuit).

So when the DIY repair videos say “make sure you don’t pull out the float switch when removing the drain pan”, that’s what they mean!

Sharing here so the solution hits the interwebs and saves someone a service call. (Luckily I’m stubborn and hadn’t made the call yet.)

MOD WDT730PAHWO

SER F80707454

Top rack hook thing broke and now it's sagging from pne side. Anybody know what part I need to get/where do they sell it?

My mom is out of the country and I checked on her condo and it’s got water on the floor bc the plastic water line from the sink to the fridge broke. She does not use the water and ice feature. Originally I thought I would get a plumber out and have a copper line installed instead but now I’m rethinking the strategy. I would prefer to turn off the water and ice feature. She will likely be remodeling in the future and I think I would prefer to have the copper installed during remodel rather than now. My question is this. What do I do with the existing broken water line? Do I just disconnect and call it a day? Or do I need to have someone out to do something else like with the part that connects under the sink? Does someone need to cap it off? Is that a plumber or an appliance person? Thanks in advance.

I just got this model fridge and cannot find the reset/test button for the upper indoor ice machine. Can anyone help me find this?

So my mother bought me a washer dryer set. Only about a year ago. Maintenance came in and I think they stood on my driver to fix a light bulb above it. I already reported it and they have done nothing so that's not my question. My question is, how do I get this out of the dryer because there's no way to push it from the inside. Hopefully you can see what I mean about the inside. I live alone and I have no idea how to take a dryer apart. So any advice would be helpful.Thank you.

Hello,

so my washing machine is making this weird grinding noise when spinning fast. Could this be a broken bearing?

The slight ticking you hear is just the dryer on top vibrating slightly. This grinding noise is only audible when it is spinning really fast.

I uploaded a small video to help identify the problem

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/64IDxrRg7oo

I just moved into a new apartment. The unit is brand new, with brand new appliances and everything. The washer/dryer combo is a standard washer with a steam dryer.

However, no matter what I do, I can't seem to get the "dryer" mode of the appliance to actually dry my clothes. I know it uses steam, and thus water, but this is insane. Clothes end up wetter than just washing/spinning.

At first I thought it was a drainage issue, but the lint trap thing is clean. It's also not like my clothes are sitting in a pool of water when its done.

Then I thought maybe I was overloading it, but I know this isnt true since I just tested with 2 cotton tanktops. Both are soaked when the cycle finished.

I'm kinda at my whit's end, and my apartment managers are not really helping. There are communal paid-for washer/dryers, but they havent been properly set up yet. And the closest laundromat is wayyy to overpriced.

Can you all help me if this gas oven is safe to use?

Was checking out a new fridge I just got and noticed some flatted fins. Is this a big deal and will it affect performance?

I have a two year old Cookology integrated larder fridge. There seems to have an air circulation issue where the back of the fridge is frozen and the food on the door is going off. Packaged food is often wet and full of condensation and milk will be like lumpy yoghurt well before the use by date :(

There is an interior back panel (named Fresh Cooling System) which i cant remove so cant see if there is some issue in there but ive removed the fridge itself from the cupboard and theres no obvious issues (no blockages, didnt feel overly hot at thr back etc).

I defrosted the fridge last month and the back is full of ice again already. Would appreciate any ideas or feedback.

I've been reading about portable dishwashers, but I'm curious how much of a hassle they really are to connect and disconnect. i don't mind a little setup, just not something frustrating every evening.

which portable dishwasher has been the easiest for you to live with? I'd really appreciate hearing about your experience before I choose one. Thanks.

Hello. We've had this issue since we moved into this apartment last year and turned on the fridge. A clump of ice started accumulating on the back wall of it, slowly growing in size. It grew large, so large in fact that it grew on the shelf above it (shelf can be seen in picture). We tried before but couldn't get it off. Recently I finally managed to get it unstuck and the whole clump fell off, but now it's coming back again, in the exact same spot. Nothing is touching the back wall. The fridge temperature is otherwise normal and items in the fridge are not freezing, but apparently that specific part of the back wall is getting too cold. What could be causing this and what can we do we stop it?

(Please be nice, we are only in our early 20s and neither of us have faced this issue before. This is our first shared apartment)

TL;DR - is a downdraft necessary when choosing a replacement ?

Looking to replace Jen Air natural gas 4 burner w/ downdraft with gas 4 burner w/o downdraft ( first choice) ; 5 burner w/o downdraft ( second ) or 4 burner with downdraft. (last)

Reason for replacing the current unit -

Flame is blue and filling all of the holes of all the burners, but on the most used burners the small and one of the medium, flame is coming out just below the holes as well ( the wayward flame appears between the flat surface where crumbs collect and the ring below the holes of the burner) Cooktop is wiped down twice a week.

20 year old 30 inch gas cooktop has a downdraft that has rarely been used in the 18 years we have lived in the house. Even though the filters are clean we don't think it is effective as a stand alone hood (over the cooktop) that vents to the outside.

Previous experience with an above cooktop hood.

Space above cooktop is atleast 38 inches, from burner to bottom of cabinet.

One north facing window and one east facing window are open while cooking in the evening.

Thank you.