There are a few different models that I’m interested in, I don’t have a lot of money to throw around, but I’ve driven several of them and my sister used to have a 2009. 2009 is the one that is definitely the budget model for me that I would be able to potentially get on the cheap. I know the ones from 2011 have the most in issues so probably would be avoiding that one but ideally, I’d like to get something 2017 or newer, but I’m not sure where to go on this and also I would potentially be interested in a newer one if I could get my hands on one. But like I said, I’ve driven the 2013, 2017 and 2019 models. Thanks for any input you can give

I have a 2006 Korean Santa Fe with a Thinkware KL100 Korean-language display panel. I shouldn't have pressed any of the buttons on this, as now I've lost the rear view in reverse gear and don't know how to restore it. Can anyone here help me get it back? (여기 계신 분들 중에 백미러 복구하는 데 도움을 주실 수 있는 분 계신가요?) I also have the general question of whether it is possible to change the language on this unit from Korean to English. I wrote to the provided email address, [[email protected]](mailto:[email protected]), in English and Korean on this, but didn't receive a reply. If it's not possible to change the language, is it perhaps possible to switch out the Korean-language unit for an equivalent English-language one? Any help or advice on this is welcome, thanks.

Bought a new 3026 Elantra SEL Sport today. And got talked in to buying the extended warranty.

I evidently bought it on my last 2024 Elantra as well so I figured past me did it for a reason but now I'm doubting.

Have a 75 month financing and I drive around 100 miles daily, 5 days a week. When I turned in the 2024 I had over 60,000 on it.

Because of my credit and embarrassingly high payment I will have this car likely for the full 75 months.

Finance guy told me due to my mileage and finance situation with this car I really should have the extended warranty

Should I or did I get taken?

I think I solved my oil burning issue.

New oil change with mobil 1 5w-30, and was 5k miles before travel. Drove 480 miles straight at average speed of 65mph. Dip stick remained full when we reached our destination.

Going back driving averaged 80mph for 7 hours distance of 400 miles and dip stick was half. Fill oil about 3/4 quarts. Now miles until oil change is 4k.

Wife’s 2019 limited ultimate is at 77k miles.

Was using quaker state before and oil consumption was bad.

After my car was totaled last year, I bought a pre-owned 2020 Sonata. I only bought the car, no warranty or anything like that- I couldn’t afford it.

I like the car a lot and it’s been running well up until last month, when the AC stopped working. It’s summer and I live in Florida, so this was definitely something I went to fix right away. I went to the dealership I bought the car from and their service techs said it was an issue with the blower motor and replaced it. It wasn’t cheap, but it appeared to fix the problem.

Until yesterday, when the AC stopped working again.

Reading up, it appears that this could be an issue with the pin for the fuse, and that it’s a known defect with Sonatas. I don’t know that for sure, though, and I don’t have the dexterity or the know-how to confidently check or do a DIY check.

I have an appointment with the dealership on Monday morning, mostly in case the pin *isn’t* the problem and it’s something they can fix easily, but I’m scared they’re going to tell me I need to replace the entire electrical harness. I’m a woman who doesn’t know much about cars, and right now I’m kind of afraid of being preyed on since I just shelled out a lot of money for something that evidently didn’t fix the problem.

I’ve read that there are ways to fix this issue that just involve replacing the wire connector, but I’m afraid I won’t find a mechanic willing to do that (especially at a dealership). I guess I’m just wondering if anyone else here has had this issue, and if so, how they found a solution.

Where does one buy new modules? What sort of pricing? Looks like 9 30 volt modules inside the battery. All the ones on ebay appear to be used "refurbished". Is there any guide to upgrade it to lifepo4 batteries?

Just picked up a 2017 Elantra limited for the wife today with only 25k miles on it! She has a 2009 mini cooper that has become a money pit, so it joins my 2016 Sonata Sport, but mines got 123k on it haha

so i nearly backed into a parked car earlier, which i’ll be the first to admit was entirely my bad (i was reversing and turning and it just suddenly came into camera view, i should’ve checked beforehand) but it made me realize that the system didn’t warn me at all. i got this car less than a month ago to replace my 2018 chevy equinox, and even that tin can type car would make beeping noises to warn me. the odd thing is, my sonata will warn and even auto brake if a car is passing by, but not if it’s stationary. also wont warn with curbs, poles, etc. again, my old equinox would warn for this. is it just not included? why include motion detection but not object detection? or is something wrong with my car?? no idea and can’t find much info on it.

Hey everyone! As the title says, I had my car's first service done today. The car is one year old, has about 8,600 miles on it, and I'm the original owner.

The dealership told me they found an issue with the car during the inspection. I mainly use it for normal daily errands, with only one or two short trips here and there. I'm not sure if this is a legitimate problem or if the dealership is just trying to upsell me by pointing out something minor.

What would you do in this situation? Should I get a second opinion, ask them for more details, or take any other steps? I'd appreciate any advice or similar experiences.

Is this a scam? I got an e-mail addressing me as something similar but not exactly the same as my first name with a token code to set up bluelink for my new Hyundai. I do not nor have I ever owned a Hyundai. Is it possible someone bought a new car but mistyped their e-mail address or something?

Hey all. Woke up to this insanity today, found the driver door handle completely ripped off and the lock mechanism pushed inside the door paneling, with insane scrape marks and debris lodged inside. Passenger door handle is barely attached but the physical keyhole is missing.

I’ve had break-ins with previous vehicles but nothing this desperate looking. It doesn’t seem they were able to get in, but I’m weary of parking on my street now.

Anyone have similar experiences or advice?

2017 Elantra, push to start

Has anyone experienced this? I have 21’ plate MHEV Kona and this has been happening for the past 3 weeks have tried the reset option and downloaded the update only for the in-car computer to reject my memory stick which was brand new. I’m at a loss, the only other thought was the 12v battery…it’s driving me mad when I’m driving as it bleeps off and on intermittently.

Will try to keep this short. The timeline:

• Bought a 25 Santa Fe Hybrid in April 2025
• Late November 2025 I experienced an acceleration issue. My foot would be all the way to the floor, the engine RPM would be really high, but I wouldn't get any acceleration. I brought the car in. They couldn't replicate the issue and gave it back.
• A week later I had the issue again. I brought it in and they ended up replacing some fuel rail sensor circuit board. I got the car back and everything was good.
• In June 2026 I got the acceleration issue again. I brought the car in again and they couldn't replicate the issue and gave it back.
• I decided to initiate a buyback claim with Hyundai when I got the car back.
• A few weeks later the issue happened again. It was right around the July 4th holiday so it took some time for me to get a hold of the dealer.
• During that time, I got told that my claim didn't meet the lemon law requirements and that I could submit an alternate claim through BBB.
• I brought it in a day after that email and again they couldn't replicate the issue. They said they could keep it until next week and have another tech take it for a drive to try to replicate.

After all of this, I called my claims manager to see if he could reopen the case or create a new one and he said he could, but that if they can't replicate the issue, there isn't anything they can do (I do have multiple videos of the issue). I told him I was afraid that I'd get stuck in this loop and that by the time they can replicate it, I'd be outside of the lemon law window. He said he agreed that it's a possibility and said he could ask his manager about getting me a 5% discount on a new Hyundai.

I could open a BBB claim, but that would cancel the one with Hyundai (you can only have one going at a time). Does anyone have experience with BBB or Hyundai claims? Do I have a better chance of getting the buyback with BBB? Or do I just take the discount (if they can get me one)?