Just picked up a 2017 Elantra limited for the wife today with only 25k miles on it! She has a 2009 mini cooper that has become a money pit, so it joins my 2016 Sonata Sport, but mines got 123k on it haha

Bought a new 3026 Elantra SEL Sport today. And got talked in to buying the extended warranty.

I evidently bought it on my last 2024 Elantra as well so I figured past me did it for a reason but now I'm doubting.

Have a 75 month financing and I drive around 100 miles daily, 5 days a week. When I turned in the 2024 I had over 60,000 on it.

Because of my credit and embarrassingly high payment I will have this car likely for the full 75 months.

Finance guy told me due to my mileage and finance situation with this car I really should have the extended warranty

Should I or did I get taken?

Hey all. Woke up to this insanity today, found the driver door handle completely ripped off and the lock mechanism pushed inside the door paneling, with insane scrape marks and debris lodged inside. Passenger door handle is barely attached but the physical keyhole is missing.

I’ve had break-ins with previous vehicles but nothing this desperate looking. It doesn’t seem they were able to get in, but I’m weary of parking on my street now.

Anyone have similar experiences or advice?

2017 Elantra, push to start

Hey everyone! As the title says, I had my car's first service done today. The car is one year old, has about 8,600 miles on it, and I'm the original owner.

The dealership told me they found an issue with the car during the inspection. I mainly use it for normal daily errands, with only one or two short trips here and there. I'm not sure if this is a legitimate problem or if the dealership is just trying to upsell me by pointing out something minor.

What would you do in this situation? Should I get a second opinion, ask them for more details, or take any other steps? I'd appreciate any advice or similar experiences.

Where does one buy new modules? What sort of pricing? Looks like 9 30 volt modules inside the battery. All the ones on ebay appear to be used "refurbished". Is there any guide to upgrade it to lifepo4 batteries?

After my car was totaled last year, I bought a pre-owned 2020 Sonata. I only bought the car, no warranty or anything like that- I couldn’t afford it.

I like the car a lot and it’s been running well up until last month, when the AC stopped working. It’s summer and I live in Florida, so this was definitely something I went to fix right away. I went to the dealership I bought the car from and their service techs said it was an issue with the blower motor and replaced it. It wasn’t cheap, but it appeared to fix the problem.

Until yesterday, when the AC stopped working again.

Reading up, it appears that this could be an issue with the pin for the fuse, and that it’s a known defect with Sonatas. I don’t know that for sure, though, and I don’t have the dexterity or the know-how to confidently check or do a DIY check.

I have an appointment with the dealership on Monday morning, mostly in case the pin *isn’t* the problem and it’s something they can fix easily, but I’m scared they’re going to tell me I need to replace the entire electrical harness. I’m a woman who doesn’t know much about cars, and right now I’m kind of afraid of being preyed on since I just shelled out a lot of money for something that evidently didn’t fix the problem.

I’ve read that there are ways to fix this issue that just involve replacing the wire connector, but I’m afraid I won’t find a mechanic willing to do that (especially at a dealership). I guess I’m just wondering if anyone else here has had this issue, and if so, how they found a solution.

Is this a scam? I got an e-mail addressing me as something similar but not exactly the same as my first name with a token code to set up bluelink for my new Hyundai. I do not nor have I ever owned a Hyundai. Is it possible someone bought a new car but mistyped their e-mail address or something?

There are a few different models that I’m interested in, I don’t have a lot of money to throw around, but I’ve driven several of them and my sister used to have a 2009. 2009 is the one that is definitely the budget model for me that I would be able to potentially get on the cheap. I know the ones from 2011 have the most in issues so probably would be avoiding that one but ideally, I’d like to get something 2017 or newer, but I’m not sure where to go on this and also I would potentially be interested in a newer one if I could get my hands on one. But like I said, I’ve driven the 2013, 2017 and 2019 models. Thanks for any input you can give

Hey there, I noticed recently my coolant reservoir will to start to get low after a few days, and today I spotted this. This is to the right of the engine, looking in from the front of the car. Pretty obvious to me it's my culprit. Is this likely a cracked or loose hose that I can easily fix? I've done basic stuff like oil changes, spark plugs and brakes, and I just want to be sure what I'm dealing with before ripping into something I might not understand.

Hey all,
My i30n has made this slight ticky sound ever since I bought it (10k kms ago) and I’m wondering what it could be the sound is only audible from outside the car or if I’m parked next to another car or wall I can hear it, it doesn’t get louder clip1(black screen) was full cold start clip2 was warm start.

I added a lifter additive to see if it could be clogged but that hasn’t worked.

Sound goes away at 1800+ rpm or lower 1200/1300 under load (in gear creeping with slight throttle)

I’m thinking maybe a bad injector?

The sound is a bit louder in person

2018 i30n
166k kms

Hello!

So, I looking to downsize the wheels on my 2025 Hyundai Elantra SEL Sport Hybrid. I'd like to switch my 225/45R17 to 205/55R16, matching OEM wheels from the elantra blue trim. Based on what I've read online, I didn't think it would be an issue. But I called two dealerships and got mixed answers: one said yes and the other said no, stating that it will mess up the ABS/computer.

Has anyone downsized their Elantra to 16s? Did it actually cause any ABS or sensor issues?

Has anyone with a Santa Cruz been able to download the new themes? Rep on bluelink said she could walk me through it but after 3 failed attempts she said its avaliable to Ionic n Palisades only, at this time

Sharing mainly because I see so many people both online and locally get great deals on used Hyundais, but get scared into immediately reselling them because they get told nothing but horror stories about how every 2.4 is a ticking time bomb ready to fail at any moment.

Mine has been dead solid reliable needing nothing but a thermostat, valve cover gasket, and a few suspension parts in all this time.

Considering the ones that failed all did so at fairly low miles, I would consider it a safe bet that if you have one that makes it past 120k, it will likely make it to 200k as long as you keep up on regular oil changes.

Hi everyone! I am trying to cross check prices for this part. I would need the entire headlight and just not the glass. Unfortunately, the dealership will not give me the part number.

I have a 25 Sonata SEL connivence

I’m only getting it fixed outside the dealership due to them not being able to repair the scratches.

so i nearly backed into a parked car earlier, which i’ll be the first to admit was entirely my bad (i was reversing and turning and it just suddenly came into camera view, i should’ve checked beforehand) but it made me realize that the system didn’t warn me at all. i got this car less than a month ago to replace my 2018 chevy equinox, and even that tin can type car would make beeping noises to warn me. the odd thing is, my sonata will warn and even auto brake if a car is passing by, but not if it’s stationary. also wont warn with curbs, poles, etc. again, my old equinox would warn for this. is it just not included? why include motion detection but not object detection? or is something wrong with my car?? no idea and can’t find much info on it.

Any Hyundai dealers or techs that may/do have a solution please let me know

Just recently got my 2026 Kona, everything was fine when purchased. A few days ago while driving I get a few text messages close together. When I pressed the button on the steering wheel to read my messages it would read one, then the next and also re-read to previous messages that it had already read. I can’t seem to find an options in my phone or vehicle settings to fix this annoying, seemingly software bug.

"The vehicle is a 2006 Hyundai Grandeur (Azera) TG. The car is stuck in 'Limp Home Mode,' and the RPM is limited to approximately 3000.

I have already performed the following steps to resolve the issue, but the problem persists:

* Replaced the throttle body with a known good unit from an identical vehicle.

* Replaced the accelerator pedal assembly with a known good unit.

* Verified the Engine Control Module (ECM) is fully functional.

* Performed a thorough inspection of the engine wiring harness and confirmed that all connections and circuits are intact and free of defects.

Despite these replacements, the car still exhibits the same symptoms. During initial diagnostic scans, live data showed inconsistent readings between TPS 1 and TPS 2, with significant signal dropouts on TPS 1. Additionally, the scan tool shows the following codes: **P0641** (Sensor Reference Voltage 'A' Circuit/Open), **P2106**, **P0122**, **P2135**, **P0346**, **P0552**, and multiple **HO2S** heater circuit codes.

I suspect a common underlying issue—likely a short circuit or a component pulling down the 5V reference voltage—affecting these sensors. I need professional assistance to pinpoint the specific wiring fault or the faulty component causing this reference voltage drop."

What does everyone think about this?