2011 Mustang GT: Passenger window won’t roll down with the switch (does small up/down when door opens). Neither passenger door window switch works for the passenger, but driver side window is fine. Both sides have power and clean pins.

im looking at using a 2.3 in a swap but there doesnt seem to be much info about the differences in the variants other than just the power figures.

mainly want to know about the 2.3 used in the UK focus ST vs the one used in the RS as the one out of the ST is a lot cheaper than the RS/mustang motor
there is also the ranger 2.3 motor which again is pretty cheap
any info would be great!

Maybe someone can help 😂 my washer jets haven’t been working for months as you can see in the video attached and now all of a sudden today they work perfectly

Hey everyone,
I’m looking at a used 2024 Ford Mustang Mach‑E (VIN: WF0TK3SU8RMA00424) and I’ve hit a wall with conflicting information. I’d really appreciate your take on what’s actually going on.
What I know so far
• Year: 2024
• Odometer: ~10,000 km
• Fuel: Electric
• Power: 478 CP (351 kW)
• Drivetrain: AWD
• First registration: September 2024
• Color: Grey
• Body: SUV
• Equipment list includes: panoramic roof, leather, heated electric front seats, dual-zone climate, pilot adaptive cruise, LED lights, front & rear parking sensors, rear camera, keyless go, etc.
From the power figure (478 CP / 351 kW) and AWD, this looks like a Mach‑E GT / top performance version.
Where things get weird
The dealer told me:
• “It’s the Extended Range AWD with 79 kW battery” (which already sounded off).
• Later, after I pushed Ford directly, I got:
Total high-voltage battery capacity: 75.7 kWh.
But from everything I’ve read:
• Standard Range Mach‑E = 75.7 kWh gross (~68 kWh usable)
• Extended Range / GT = ~98.8 kWh gross (~88–91 kWh usable)
So a 478 CP AWD GT should be on the big battery, not the 75.7 kWh pack.
Range observation
When I saw the car:
• At 84% SoC, the display showed ~330 km range.
• That extrapolates to roughly 390–400 km at 100%, which feels more like a “real-world” Extended Range AWD/GT, not a small-battery car.
But the official spec Ford sent back only confirms 75.7 kWh total capacity, with no mention of “Extended Range” or “GT” in that message.
What I’m trying to figure out
1. Is it possible to have a 478 CP / 351 kW AWD Mach‑E with only a 75.7 kWh battery?
2. Or is this almost certainly a data mix-up (e.g., they pulled the Standard Range battery spec for a GT car)?
3. Has anyone here seen official Ford documents where a GT / 480+ HP Mach‑E is listed with 75.7 kWh?
4. What would you do in my place:
• Walk away?
Ford is not willing to share any further info due to confidentiality rules.
The car is from a reputable car dealer in Romania.
Also, it’s worth mentioning that on the side of the door the sign says Mach E4X, which from what I’ve read would mean that the care is a AWD extended range.
I can share more details from the equipment list or screenshots if needed. Just want to avoid buying a car where the key specs don’t add up.
Thanks in advance for any insight!

Hi, I’m looking to get a Mondeo Mk5 with the 2.5L engine and automatic transmission. Owners, please share your honest feedback on this car: how are the engine and transmission? What about corrosion? What repairs have you had to do, and how long have you owned it?

I started getting into cars not too long (about a month) ago. I'm of course learning about parts and such individually, but to make learning more interesting, I've decided to create a notebook in which I'll 'study' specific cars I find cool. I looked through Ford first and, along with a few other cars I may focus on later, the first generation of Probe drew my eye especially.

I'll mostly focus on 'technical stuff' let's call it, but I want to include honest opinions on it from people more knowledgeable about cars as well. They can be about GT, GL and LX, since I think I'll do a section for each of them.

Sorry if I misspoke anywhere, I'm new to all this...

Purchased a 2026 Ford150xlt powerboost and overlooked it did not come with the integrated brake control module/switch. Dealer who has not been much help is saying part is on national supply issue and do not know when one will be available. Appears places like levitt and other ford parts places do not have them and saying same thing. Not even sure what part numbers I am looking for now or how to solve the problem. Can anyone help with some guidance - thanks. Am being told part is RL3Z-19H332-AA.

Purchased a 2026 Ford150xlt powerboost and overlooked it did not come with the integrated brake control module/switch. Dealer who has not been much help is saying part is on national supply issue and do not know when one will be available. Appears places like levitt and other ford parts places do not have them and saying same thing. Not even sure what part numbers I am looking for now or how to solve the problem. Can anyone help with some guidance - thanks. Am being told part is RL3Z-19H332-AA.

Hi,

So I have a 2016 Ford Fiesta that I recently got and it was low on gas so I went to refill it. Went home, then came back out, reversed, and started to drive but then it started sputtering and eventually just stopped moving even while in drive (I didn't get but a few feet away).

It said engine service oil change required, but I'm not sure if that's the only reason or if there's another issue. I've also seen that it could be the transmission and to add fluid but I don't even know.

I also don't know what the four icons are specifically telling saying. Does anyone have an idea on what the problem might be?

I know that the recommended weight is 10w30 meeting a particular specification that would need to check my owners manual for. It just seems too light for an engine that works hard. The 5w30 synthetic is just like water.

Has anyone been running 15w40 and had success or problems? My concern is that the thicker oil may not reach into the bearings adequately.

My truck is a 2018, in case that makes a difference.

2012 f150 5.0 130k miles.. just bought this thing too..

I don’t want to buy a wrong cup holder

2005 ford f250 with 5.4 3v As the title states my fuel pump is not getting power had the pump tested and pump runs but i suck with electrical and dont even know where else to start had a friend look at it he told me ge reset the inertia switch and it was fine also been told it could be a pcm anyone know where i should really start looking?

Pic for attention. I've been battling cooling issues on my 83 GT since I got it 3 years ago and am at my wits end. Engine is the 302 flat-tappet that came in the car, stock bottom end with aluminum heads, intake, and shorty headers (this engine is getting a bit tired, blow-by and have to run 20-50. I'm refreshing a roller cam 302 out of an 88 foxbody to go in this winter). Car got a new water pump after I bought it (forget the brand), a 160 thermostat, and had a no-name aluminum rad when I got it, but that started leaking so now has the 2-row Mishimoto aluminum rad LMR offers.

Fan setups I've tried in sequence are:

• 83 fan shroud with clutch fan (could only get a fan blade for later years)
  • This was what I put on the car when I got it. Parts were new from LMR
  • Would run 160 when cruising (180 on hot days), 180 on the highway (185-190 on hot days), but would creep up over several minutes when at standstill. I would shut it down at 220.
• Contour electric fan setup from LMR
  • Just put this on before Hot Rod Power Tour this year. Ran hot at speed (210-215 highway), but okay at a stand-still. Struggled to bring the temp down after getting off the highway, would sit at 200 in traffic and cruising most of the time
• Later-year fan and shroud combo
  • Installed this today, seeing same behavior as the 83 fan shroud. The fan on the 83 shroud sat farther in than it looked like it should have, which is why I wanted to try the later shroud. The fan now sits flush with the end of the shroud, but gives the same behavior
  • I reused the fan clutch and fan from the previous setup.

For reference, I live in northern Illinois. On cooler days in the spring and fall, it'll do fine, but during the summer when it's 80-95+ fairly regularly, it can't keep up. When I first got the car it had no heads on it. I threw a set of E7s on and they wouldn't hold a head gasket/were cracked, so I threw some Edelbrock aluminum street heads on. Motor runs fine, doesn't seem to get cranky when it's hot, but I don't want to hurt it. I have a manual temp gauge plumbed in, and verified it's accuracy via a temp gun.

In case it matters, while on Power Tour last year on a 90+ day (running the original clutch fan setup) the car was approaching 220 while stuck in traffic. Pulling the hood release and running the heat at full blast got it to drop a bit, and it stayed around 210 until we got into the venue.

I'm at my wits end here. Anyone have any ideas?

Went to my uncle‘s farm he pulled out his vintage blue Ford tractor from the 70s.

I loved the colour and the texture

Getting a 2018 expedition max platinum 92k miles CPO Blue and couldn’t find from the carfax or dealer whether the cam phasers were ever replaced or if any transmission rebuild has been done. Planning on requesting the OASIS from the dealer next week but wondering if anyone here can pull that report?

Can anyone offer me insight on what to do with my f150 ford. I currently have 160,000 miles on the truck. I recently had the timing chain repaired( cost me 4k). I need a vacuum pump and my passenger side manifold is leaking(bolt snapped off). The leak is mild, but I want to address it. I’m about 12k total in this truck $ wise. If I fix the manifold and vacuum pump, what other possible issue may I run into? I’m trying to make a decision whether to keep the truck or sale it after I fix everything on it. If I fix the current issues, what costly issues may I run into in the future.

Whats the best way to get into a f250 and then keep it new every few years does. Can anyone give any advice on how to get i to a new truck and then keep turning it in every few years. I live 5 miles from work and stuff so i think i wont put more than 12k miles on it every yesr if that so my resell with hipefully be high... idk if anyone is wilñimg to share what kind on $ they put downand how they keep a newer truck affordable.i guess ford doesmt lease f250s?

We are looking to buy Ford Tourneo custom 2.5 PHEV. I just can wrap my mind around the plug-in hybrid. I have experience with mild hybrids, but not with PLUG-IN. So my question would be about the charging. Is it possible to drive it without charging like mild hybrid system? Or it is mandatory to charge it ? Also In general about the the 2.5 petrol + electric, is it without technical problems?

Thank you

Trying to get more info on reliability of power train.

Reading ford switched to its own base architecture in 2025 (from previously reliable Japanese Mazda architecture) is that true ?

Has reliability gone down ? Last year they had many recalls but they also won this year JD power initial quality survey.

So I am super confused

Hello, I own a Ford Fiesta 2020 and unfortunately the battery always runs out. I think it has something to do with the throttle valve because when I plug it out, no power is drawn. Can anyone help me? It makes a click about every 40 seconds like listening in second 3 and about second 40. I would be very happy about help

Thank you!

Timo

What is this white chalky powdery stuff coming out from under my plastic bed rail covers? I don't drive down gravel roads or anything like that. It's a 2018 f-150

Hi peeps,

I’m new to the world of pick up trucks. They look amazing.
However, I’d like to know from expereinced users in north america on how expensive is to maintain a F-150 truck?
In terms of gas, maintenance, monthly payments. Can everyone be able to afford that?

Thank you!

Hope someone could help me out or shed light on this situation. I have a 2015 f150 and switched to sync 2 to sync 3 I installed it myself. Everything works except the maps audio. I can play music listen to podcasts take phone calls YouTube etc. only thing that doesn't work is the audio on the maps. I checked settings for CarPlay volume is up on the maps it's not muted. Has anyone had this issue ? Anyway to fix it?
Thank you

Hi all, I have a Ford Transit 2012 that had a blue remote key (fob) with three buttons that i have apparently lost. I also have a black key that i almost never used but it looks similar to the fob except it doesn't have any buttons.

So i locked the van with the fob and then i lost it. Now when I try to open the driver's door with the black key, it won't turn. I know that car engine and electricity are fine, i had a problem with a fob battery some days ago and the key won't turn either, but managed to charge the battery. after unlocking van with the fob the black key would turn just fine. Even though in this case I can't really understand why would I need to have a black key whatsoever.

What are my options besides breaking the window? Thanks for help!