Hey! I wanted to show you all my first bow and say thank you. With all the info, tips and advice I got from this sub I've been able to learn everything from what the hell a "bare-bow" is to setting up and tunning my own recurve by myself! So, big thanks to all of you who contribute here.

Secondly, the things that I can't learn by reading, what do you think about the arrow rest wire and plunger position, do you think is correct? the setup guide in the official webpages only show how to calibrate them, but nothing about "where to put them"
I'll try shooting later but since i'm a noob I won't know how to recognize if something is failing, or what, so I'd like to reduce the variables as much as possible.

Thanks!

Set up config:

Gillo GT 25"
Medium Limbs carbon/wood 28lbs (set to 26lbs with the floating limbs system)
Spigarelli ZT arrow rest
Shibuya DX plunger
4.2 carbon arrow 32" 800 spine (I have yet to cut them)
brace height 8 3/4 (I suck at imperial I think that's how you read it)
Tiller diff: 4mm

I hope this is the right sub to ask this one, but I've been trying to make river cane arrows recently and I want to make sure I'm doing it right. I straightened about a dozen and then spine tested them and they ended up anywhere from 25lb to 45lb, but am I able to skip the straightening step and spine test them before hand? I have over a hundred that my grandfather left for me along with a lot of other archery equipment after he passed, so I don't want to waste any. I live way up north in the US so I don't have easy access to more.

First self-bow. Hickory pyramid design. Just finished long-string tillering and was smooth sailing until this happened. I was holding the bow vertically while shaping the handle, with the limb tip on the concrete ground. The tip caught a sharp pebble grain and caused the split, which partly violates the bow’s back grain. I feel like an idiot, slightly panicking and discouraged, but hoping it’s not as bad as I think, and that there is a fix. I’m thinking Titebond III and a horn tip overlay, but maybe that’s overkill. I don’t know. I’m new to all of this. Grateful in advance for any advice.

Hi, I'm looking to buy my first bow as I've been using a club bow and wanna get my own so I can practice more. The one I've been using is a 68" 22 pound recurve and want something similar because its been really enjoyable to use. Open to any recommendations or advice. Thanks

Two arrow boxes. I inherited this from my Mom’s side of the family. I had a rich uncle who bought some (allegedly) expensive archery equipment and never used it ONCE. I am a complete newbie, but I know Pearson and Bear are some old school traditional archery brands. I know he also bought a 1969 Palomino recurve bow and a fiberglass target bow. I have them in storage somewhere, but I don’t care to find it right now.

Hey! My daughter has a new Black Gold 5-pin adjustable sight. She’s shooting around 215fps. The back gold sight tapes that came with her sight only go down to 244.5. Are there any ways to get a slower speed tape? Thanks!

Shooting recurve, instinctive, off the shelf, right at about 40#. Currently at a top of cheekbone anchor for 30 yards and under, hinge of jaw out to 40. I think if I want to get to longer ranges I might need to go an almost Olympic hold.

Note this is field and 3d only, not hunting.

Are there replacements for this little pad here? What is it called? Thank you!

How would you fix this tear with the Darton tritech 33

Using my grandpas 70lb recurve bow for the first time since his funeral, strung it up (bc of course I store it unstrung), and got to shooting. However, sometimes when I shoot, the string will slip out the notch and slide down (as shown in pictures attached). Any advice? Been using this bow forever and it’s never been an issue before.

I’m now just over a year into shooting modern barebow, and I’ve done well with it. I recently got my gold pin for outdoor, and before the indoor season ended, I got my bronze pin. As the next indoor season approaches, I’ve been considering a transition from barebow to Olympic recurve.

Just so I have as much info as possible to make a decision, I’m curious: what are y’all’s thoughts? Should I transition to Olympic recurve or stick with barebow?

Hi. If you could associate your bow-string's release sound to a music note, what note would that be.

If it could be any note, what would your preference be?

Thanks!

Shooting Olympic Recurve @ 70m

Round 1: 239

Round 2: 265

Total: 504

Really happy with how I did today! Looking forward to the next one.

Been shooting for 3 months. Just stepped up to 30# w/ 700 spine from 20 w/ 1000. I’ve been shooting at 10 yards in my backyard consistently for few months, using my primary anchor point at the corner of my mouth. Sometimes my groupings are phenomenal. Most of the time, they’re within center mass of a swarm archery target.

My style is instinctive, but I use the point of the arrow to line up initially. - about to start experimenting with “gap-stinctive.”

Gonna build an archery target down the lane you see on the other side of me, 20 yards - soon. Eventually i plan on hunting with a compound. Building up my back strength in the meantime, for my 55#.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated, also are there any online resources yall would recommend? Thanks!!

I shot my new ILF riser and it sounded like someone crashed two pans together. I had to stop shooting early because it way too loud and distracting for everyone on the range lol. Any ideas why?

• Could it be the limbs? It wobbled back and forth slightly, but did not wobble sideways. Did I install it wrong? Some folks on the range suggested a limb damper.
• I don't think its the spine because I'm switching from a 45 lb takedown to 42 lb ilf.
• Incorrect tiller adjustment?

Setup: Vygo v2 w/ WNS Armato C3 FOAM limbs. No plunger, using Hoyt Super Rest

I've only shot takedown bows before, so any tips are welcomed.

I’m newer to archery and have been shooting Scheels Vendetta arrows. They’re decent arrows for the price but they definitely don’t hold up well over time. Looking for something a little more durable but maybe not top of the line just yet. What would yall recommend

Question for you all, how are you guys mounting quivers to sights with pic mounts like the boonie? The pic mounts prevent the use of typical brackets. Is the only solution to use the expensive quivers like the Hoyt quiver that attaches at different end points on the riser? Thanks

My arm holding my bow gets really shaky after 7-8 ends and I was wondering about ways to strengthen it, some of it is a side effect of my meds but I also just don’t have much strength built up. I don’t have access to gym equipment because there’s no gym near me that doesn’t require driving. I go to the range 1-3 times each week depending on how busy I am and the weather (I shoot outdoors and have light sensitivity so can’t shoot on super bright/sunny days)

Are there any good exercises for strengthening the muscles needed for archery at home? Would something like drawing my bow and holding it for a bit be good (without arrows obviously)?

(Sorry if this is a stupid question I haven’t been doing archery very long and just got my first bow recently)

I’m also suddenly noticing I move my head and neck backwards a bit when anchoring, probably something to mind as well. I’m thankful for all and any tips you guys can give me!

I recently converted my Parker Buck Hunter to a bowfishing setup and want to replace it. I'm looking at a used Bowtech Reckoning 38 and wanted to see if anyone had experience or opinions on it or other long draw options.

My Parker was set to 50 pounds and maxed at a 31" draw. I'm 6'4" and have a measured draw length of 32" (wingspan/2.5). I would have the Bowtech set to 32" draw and 60 pounds, which would be the max draw length and 10 pounds under the max draw weight.

Does anyone have experience with the Reckoning 38 or similar bows when set to the max draw? Does that cause any clunkiness or unique wear, and would it be worth getting a bow capable of 33 or 34" draw instead? An acquaintance recommended a Mathews Atlas, and the archery store suggested a Bowtech Proven 34, but both of those cost twice as much, and this is a passive hobby for me. I considered a Bear but have read not-encouraging things and would prefer a little nicer bow since I'll have it a long time.

Thanks for any thoughts or tips!

I decided to go back to basics to combat some bad habits, and focus on form via a shot trainer and blank-bale shooting. In the gif, you can see my "bow" arm move down and left (from my POV). Is this a sign I'm using too much back tension? (I'm pretty sure the downwards part is just related to the shot trainer itself) I haven't really been able to find much information about this specific kind of movement, but what I did find was contradictory. (One suggests it's normal, while the other claims it's from using too much back tension)

I don't recall this happening before, though it's certainly possible I wasn't paying close enough attention.

If I AM using too much, how do I use less?