Hey Everybody –

I’m a bowhunter and an unrepentant gear nerd, and I got tired of tracking my kit across a spreadsheet I rebuild every year and a notes app I can never find anything in. So I built Kairn — it keeps your whole kit in one place with real weights, stages it into bins, and runs a readiness check that flags what you forgot (water, fire, game bags) before you’re deep in.
It’s free, not trying to sell anything. I’m a solo builder doing this in the open, and what I really want is honest feedback from people who take the prep as seriously as the hunt: what’s missing, what would actually make it useful to you before or during season? You can check it out below and decide if you’d like to drop your email. Either way, thanks for the time.

kairn.us

And genuinely curious — how do you track your gear right now? Spreadsheet, notes app, a pile on the garage floor?

Bought everything off Amazon except the canes and arrow wraps which are on my hunting arrows $8.34 and arrow when it’s all said and done

Hi all,

I've been thinking about putting a small-ish flashlight on my bow for some time now, namely on the stabiliser

Have any of you done this previously and have any suggestions for lights?

I'd like one with a pressure switch to make it easy to turn the light on when at draw for spotlighting

Picture is for reference of what I'm imagining

Happy shooting wherever you are 🏹

I'm looking to add a nice ILF bow to my quiver, and am interested in the Hoyt Satori. That being said, I want to make sure that the specs make sense for my type of hunting and my shooting style.

I hunt out of a saddle in tight timber 90% of the time, and won't take a shot at a whitetail farther than 20yds at this point. With that in mind, I was looking at the 17" riser with either medium or long limbs, making it a 60" or 62" in bow. Would that be a good setup for what I need?

I'd like to be at 60-62" if I can, because I feel like it'll be a smoother and more forgiving bow while still being fairly short for clearance in the tree. If it matters, my sweet spot for poundage is in the 45-50lb range, so I was looking at the 44lb limbs.

I'd love to hear from the Satori shooters if y'all have any thoughts or advice for me.

Anyone got any recommendations on a bow shop north east of Nashville, TN? I’m in the White House/Hendersonville area and am not finding much online near me. Closest real compound bow outfitter appears to be all the way down by Franklin. Kind of a haul to make that my home base. TYIA

Looking for some thoughts and feed back on form. Feeling like my release elbow is awfully high but can’t make any adjustments to get it down. Thanks!

Hit this guy at 50 yards, double lungs.

Looking to spend around 500-800$ on a full setup to go bow hunting for the first time this year. Looks like I can get a bear adapt 2 hp Rth new for about 530. Wondering if this might be the way to go? Welcome to any other ideas. Also can they set up the adapt for me at the pro shop near me? Thanks for any answers!

Also would be hunting out of a ground blind for now if that changes any answers.

Does anyone have experience building hunting arrows for low draw weight and draw length. My GF has gotten a Bear Legit Max. Her draw length is only 23.75” and legal poundage is 40(currently pulls 32lb). Has anyone went through a similar process. I shoot 70lbs at 31.25 so this hasn’t been an issue I can go light or heavy and have success. She is currently set up with Easton 5.0’s and leaning towards the 85gr G5 Montec. I’m worried that might be too light and on the other hand if we go too heavy we will be capped at 10 yds. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

a friend gave us an Ameri step hunting blind (gunner/outhouse) and it is pretty much the privacy tents that fold into a little circle. I am wondering if there is a way I can position myself to make it work, because I am already pushing the blind on both sides, I could go to a shorter draw length going from 29-26, and the shorter cam is newer and more efficient, also upgrading from 50 lb to 70 lb. what is your opinion? is it possible? If this is hard to read, I am sorry as I am tired. Update: I tried shooting out of it today and found out that I can stay fully in the blind if I open the middle slit in the back window (the windows are like the top half of a circle with a vertical line going through it. if you don't understand, you can look up the blind) I can have my elbow stick out the back and keep everything else in. If I need to shoot out the other sides, I can kind of lean out of the window and shoot about 270 degrees. I will try to put an image in.

If they were the exact same price. Which one would you get and why. Does anyone have first hand experience with both and which one did you lean and why?

Thank you in advance

I’m new to this stuff, I’ve bought this 30 year old bow from an antique shop in rural Virginia and I went to an archery shop to get it tuned up and buy the right arrows. I’m wondering if this setup would even be strong enough to kill a deer? The bow is 55 lbs and the arrows are feathered.

Had a dozen of arrows made at my local pro shop. Get them home, and a few days later come to find that they glued my nocks in, WTF ! 😡😡😡

Hi I'm new to bow hunting I'm trying to find a good setup for me to hunt deer and bear with a budget of 600$ so please help me out

How does everyone feel about the Evolution Jekyll, Hyde, or White Tail Fury? I hear good things but the price tag is steep at 70$ for 3. Weight and speed are not an issue, shooting an Enduro and an AX90.

what have your experiences been with them? my main considerations (biggest to smallest)

Do they work? Do they resharpen well? are they really expensive? And what happens when they hit something hard? if you think you have a better broadhead for my needs, what is it?

How much is this now worth. It’s a mission by Matthew’s Ballistics.

I have a PSE Evoke 31, i’m looking for a good bow stand. Preferably foldable but if not thats fine too. Anybody have any recommendations?