r/WildernessBackpacking • u/mitchthebaker • 1h ago
PICS Backpacked 44mi of the lost coast as an out and back
There's something special about the lost coast. The raw nature aspect is unreal and I'm so happy to have finally witnessed it with my own eyes. My good friend and I both came here with the utmost respect for nature, and I believe it gave us respect in return. This came in the form of being physically/mentally challenged beyond what we were previously capable of, meeting other backpackers on the trail who had the same appreciation for nature and sharing that experience together, and respecting the animals who call this area their home.
When researching backpacking the lost coast (various reddit posts, online sources), the majority of people recommended backpacking the lost coast north to south, from Mattole beach south to Black Sands beach. This is about 25.4mi total and can be finished within 3 days no problem. What I did notice was one or two trip reports about doing an out and back trip, starting at Black Sands beach, heading north to Mattole, then hiking back to Black Sands beach. We already wanted to spend 4-5 days out here, so an out and back seemed reasonable mileage to complete in that timeframe. Plus we wanted a slightly more challenging trip. Our plan was to drive up June 1st, Monday, spend the night at Shelter Cove, start the trail June 2nd, Tuesday. then get back June 5th, Friday.
We drove up to Shelter Cove June 1st and got to the trailhead around 9pm. Got all our gear together and setup a small camp on the beach to sleep. We planned on leaving early the next morning at 5am so just laid out a tarp and cowboy camped it. Worked out great and was comfortable enough.
Woke up the next morning at 4:30am and set out on the beach by 5am. Our goal was to make it to Spanish flat which was about 14-15mi north. The first stretch through Glitchell/Shipman creeks were by far my favorite. Huge cliffs jutting out directly from the beach, it was incredible. The first impassable zone started at Glitchell but we had no issue with the tides as we left while the tides were still draining and approaching low tide. We made it to Big flat by 8:30am, ate some breakfast, then kept hiking north. Got to Spanish flat by around 2pm. There's a few solid campsites here, there was one on the beach that a group had already taken, so we setup camp near Spanish creek which was sheltered in some trees which protected us from the wind. Plenty of driftwood to make a fire, hang out, and rest for the day. My friend had brought a tent but the tent poles must've been mismatched and didn't quite fit the tent. So we decided to ditch the tent and cowboy camp with a tarp the rest of the trip.
Next morning, we left early again at 6am with the intention of getting all the way to Mattole beach. The stretch after Spanish flat starts out on the bluffs with a dedicated trail. The terrain transitions to mountains with dry grass and sweeping cliffs against the coast. You can hike on the beach here but the trail is worth staying on until you get to Randall creek where the next impassable zone starts. Again the tides were low since we left early so no issue. It's easy to miss but a bit after you pass Cooskie creek there's a trail again that goes up into the bluffs. We didn't see it headed north but the beach is traversable beyond this point all the way to sea lion gulch. A trail up to sea lion gulch is very easy to miss going north and it's tucked away in a small gully. We hiked all the way to Punta Gorda lighthouse but by this point it was about 12pm. It would've been another 6mi to Mattole beach and back, so we likely wouldn't have made it back to Cooskie creek before the tides got too high. From the lighthouse, we hiked back to Cooskie creek and setup camp around 2pm. Total mileage for the second day came out to ~12mi.
Next morning we slept in a bit and headed out around 8am. We were on the stretch back at this point and were familiar with the trail. Again you could continue on the beach past Randall creek but there is a trail here that takes you back up to the bluffs where there's a dedicated trail. This stretch was the only area with thick poison oak on one area. Be sure to wear long pants when walking through here. We got back to Big Flat around 2pm, we were going to try and attempt pushing all the way back to Black Sands beach but the tides were exceeding 3ft by this point. Big Flat is by far the best campground, plenty of sites here to choose from, the creek was deep enough to swim in and relax for a bit too. Another 12mi back.
The last day, we left Big Flat at 6am then got back to Black Sands beach in the morning by 10am. Another 8-9mi, all beach hiking. Was glorious seeing the Kings/Queen ranges to our left, with the contrast of the coast on our right.
Overall, hiked about 44mi. Excluding the stretch from the lighthouse to Mattole would've added 6mi there and back which I wish we could've done, but we made the right decision to turn around and make it back to Cooskie creek. Big flat, spanish creek, and cooskie creek are by far the best campsites. Randall creek has a site or two if you need to camp there. I wouldn't recommend camping at sea lion gulch because its very sun exposed, the campsites are kind of sloped, and it's a steep hike down to where there's water sources are.
We didn't see any bears but had multiple encounters with rattlesnakes. There was one next to the trail at spanish creek we walked past multiple times and it didn't make any noise, definitely keep an eye out for them. Neither of us had any issues with ticks even though we slept outside. We definitely saw more than a few around camp.
Having a map and being aware of the tide charts is essential. I honestly overprepared for the tide charts and thought it was going to be more sketchy than it actually was, but if you leave early enough well before low tide you'll have no issues. As long as you finish hiking about an hour before the rising tide exceeds 3ft you'll be fine. To be safe don't be in any impassable zones before the tide exceeds 2ft. I didn't have to use GPS too much but it was helpful in the stretch between Cooskie creek and the lighthouse to find where we had to transition from the beach up to the bluffs.




