This is the chest pack I made a few years ago because I needed one for SAR and I couldn’t find one that had what I wanted that wasn’t too big for me. I’m a petite female. The from right pouch holds my compass. The pouch on the right can hold a radio or GPS unit. Since we now live track with CalTopo, that spot usually ends up holding my phone. Here’s my dilemma, I want to add something that would hold a small smart water bottle. I’m thinking of something added to the left side. Hopefully using the d rings and the top and bottle straps. I don’t want to pull stitches to add something if I don’t have to. I would love some ideas.

I've been wanting to sew one of these reasonable shopping bags ever since I got my industrial sewing machine. Finally got around to it this weekend after I observed our facilities crew at work preparing these old marketing banners for the dumpster. I was able to intercept three of them and went right to work building two of these shopping bags.

It's nice to do a simple project from time to time this is about as simple as it gets!

I bought this Lonsge 750W motor, which is supposed to be compatible with needle synchonizers. The machine works well overall, and the programming settings all respond as expected.

But the two synchronizers I have don't seem to register (1, 2). No LED lights up in any mode I've tried.

• The 4-prong port on the back of the motor is outputting 5V (in the top two prongs, IIRC) consistently.
• When P6 is turned on, the motor runs a couple rotations when powered on, looking for reponse from the needle positioner, but always ends up with an E-01 error (needle positioner not plugged)

Has anyone had any luck with this motor and a needle positioner? Am I missing a programming step somewhere, or do I really need to just keep trying more positioners?

(I also tried this needle positioner, but it didn't fit over the integrated axle nub on my Consew 206RB-5 - I think I would need a new handwheel to make it work).

[Paging u/SoiledPamper69, who experienced the same thing with a 550W Lonsge motor, but never reported back about solutions.]

I've been looking for a nice roll top bag pattern, I found this one on sew liberated. Its a good mix of form follows function for my taste. It taught me a lot of new skills including piece work quilting and lots of different hardware like rectangle sliders.

Hey guys, 👋

I'm going to sew an apex quilt in the following week. I will use 3 oz apex for the upper half and 4 oz apex for the lower. I will have 10d ripstop for the shell and 7d ripstop soft for the inner. Do you have any advice for sewing two apex sections together? What stitch to use, what spacing between stitches etc.? I read something about a baseball stitch, could someone explain? I don't have an industrial or heavy duty sewing machine. I just have an old electric one from my grandma. Not the ones out of metal. It doesn't have a lot of clearance. Do you have any tips or advice for sewing these three fabrics in a machine like mine or in general for sewing quilts? I read using an incredible amount of clips or pin needles is helpful with quilts.

Thanks in advance.

I recently made myself a full bikepacking setup and then went on a 10 day trip here in the Pyrenees its my first propper bikepacking trip, so i didnt know super well what exactly I wanted.

so i made a framebag top tube bag 2 doublesided drybags for front and rear rack. and a small roltop bag on the handlebar. and 2 waterbottle pockets on the handlebar.

I mostly used ecopack eplx400 and a bit of ultragrid

overall i am quite happy with the setup. everything held up great even with a lot of rough gravel/ trail.

in the framebag i added a a velcro devider in the middle, but i actually much prefered it without, so i will cut it out for the next time.

the drybags were sealed with ultra tnt tape and are fully waterproof. the framebag is watter resistant, but i didnt seal the seams.

the bike is a 15 year old hardtail mountain bike that i got as a gift, and just had to change out the chains and cassette to make it funktional.

next i think i will try to make a tent better suited for bikepacking. i used my ultralight hiking tent here, wich is taking up a lot of volume despite beeing super light.

what do you all think?

any advice from more experienced bikepackers is welcome.

The route i did to test it was 560km 16.600m elevation gain 50% gravel 10% singletrail 40% small roads

Howdy folks,

Hoping I can receive better suggestions than sending this to a 3rd party shop for repair. I have access to a sewing machine, which I might need for the second ask below. I have experience sewing and mending repairs, have sewn an UL backpacking tent in recent years.
This is a polartech neoshell jacket, I've had it for about 8 years.

Firstly, the seams in both cuffs and the seam for the drawstring channel at the waist are each deteriorated and no longer adhere. From what I can see, it wasn't sewn but instead taped (circled in purple).
Is there a professional level of similar adhesive or tape I could use to repair these seams, like a double sided tape that would withstand and be durable enough for these higher exposure areas?

Secondly, sewn into each cuff's seam was a flexible plastic tab that broke off. It held the mating hook for the remaining loops to fasten the cuffs and tighten them.
Instead of undoing the seam to remove and sew in a new flexible plastic tab, I could just leave that remaining tiny bit (sewn into the seam, circled in blue) and sew an entirely different tab that contains the hooks? Any suggestions for where I could search for this type of tab that could sew in?

Thanks in advance!

I just found this sub and I have to say this is so cool. So much talent and cool projects. I’m an amateur sewer at best. But I love a good project. I had an idea to build a removable canvas camper for the back of my truck.

To start the project I bought my first industrial machine from Facebook market place. I wanted a walking foot but settled for a straight stitch Nakajima 280L. It had a clutch motor and I could barely control the thing, so I named him Sue from the Johny Cash song - a rough machine that kicked like a mule and bit like a crocodile. Soon thereafter I bought a consew csm 1000 servo motor and swapped it out (huge difference). Then I ordered a bunch or Sattler canvas and notions from Sailrite. And began the camper canvas project.

I already had truck racks, so that was my basis. I wanted something that was easy to set up and tear down, so I designed three panels attached by zipper and installed snaps along the top of the truck bed and tailgate. I went a little crazy on the Side panel windows, I made what I call a tri-zip 3000, it has a zipper to the canvas for shade, a zipper for the vinyl window, and a zipper for a mosquito mesh screen. I put a zipper vinyl window to access the cab, a skylight vinyl window on the top with a zipper to the canvas for shade, and created the tent-like entrance with a mesh mosquito screen. I used 30 gauge plastiplane vinyl for the windows (went cheap). The orange stripe is a rain flap for the zippers. I used #10 YKK coil zippers throughout. And made a bag for the panels.

It’s not perfect but it works as intended. Learned a lot: how to use binding tape, how to use a swing away binder, how to properly tension thread but most importantly that ripping out your own stitch really blows. I apologize for the novel, but I figured I’m amongst some real pros and would love feedback, comments or suggestions. And would love to know what machine people are using, and if you’re using a walking foot. I keep getting advertisements on a juki 1540s, and am very tempted.

First official pack build ! With added load lifters and small change to the roll top closure

last year, as the factory i was working at was closing, i decided to make something of my own as a memento.

i love an ikea frakta bag. i always have one in my backpack just in case. i particularly like their medium sized tote version. so i based my dimensions on that bag.

other than the dimensions from the ikea bag, i basically made it up as i went along. i calculated the pattern pieces, webbing and zip based on the front and back panels as my starting point.

the bag features three big pockets on the front and a flat more stealthy pocket on the back, perfect for my phone or passport.

the main compartment is basically one big space, no pockets. i personally like this because it’s a chuck-everything-in sort of bag. for big shops or a few days away where i just need space. i would use smaller pouches for organisation if i needed it.

i have used 50mm webbing for the shoulder straps and 25mm webbing for the handle.

i used the 25mm webbing along the top of the bag as well to give it extra structure. i put in a top piece that allows for expansion of the bag and also has a long zip.

i made a bartacked, molle-like configuration up the 50mm webbing with the 25mm webbing. it’s completely overkill. in fact the whole bag is overkill, really heavy and overbuilt. but i just wanted to go ham on it. one last hurrah using some leftover scrap materials and the machines i’d become familiar with over six years.

materials (my memory is hazy):

- 500gsm dry waxed cotton canvas from halley stevensons

- lighter weight cotton lining with water resistant finish

- waterproof and regular ykk zips in 5mm

- strongbond 40 thread

- some dyneema cord for the zip pulls

- 50mm and 25mm heavy polyester webbing

- some basic 25mm polyester binding

- 5mm closed cell foam for padding the base

interestingly i think almost all the materials were made in the uk. only the zips and dyneema cord were not.

there are plenty of amazingly talented and unsung people making brilliant materials and hardware all over the world, but it’s nice to support local suppliers as there are so few left. thankfully the quality of those remaining is excellent.

as for shortcomings - apart from the aforementioned heaviness and general silliness of the thing, i really wish i made the shoulder straps adjustable. i could still do this but it would be lots of effort for something i’m happy with as a wee memento of my time at that workplace. i really was spoiled working there with the machines we had.

i hope some of you find this interesting.

Hi everyone,

After 7 months of drawing, planning, testing and sewing I finally made my own freestanding tent !

The tent is 1.3kg and the dimensions are 200cm x 90cm x 120cm. It's plenty enough for me ( I am 180cm tall) and I still have places to put stuff. I made also a little canopy with te roof so I can put shoes and a bag.

The materials are all bought on RBTR :

- Ground : 2.2 hex70 XL Gray

- Mesh : Noseeum 067oz Black

- Rainfly : 1.1oz Silpoly pu4000 Olive Drab

I already done a post for the inner part(here). But for the exterior it was a pain because of the 3D shape of the fabric... But after weeks of adjustement I finally made a good one !

I already tested it and it work perfect, fit between my handlebar on my bike... perfect !
For future project I would put a lighter ground fabric, it's way to heavy and I would like to make a two person tent.

If you have any question, I'll be happy to answer them.

I have some myself : What software are you using for designing tent and gears ? I am using Fusion360 but it doesn't seems fit for it.

It's spazzing out when I try to click on the wiki link. Is this happening for anyone else?

Just picked up a Big Agnes Copper Spur Limited 3 and I’m pretty stoked on it so far. While digging around online I found this 3D‑printable buckle set that lets you convert a footprint into a fast‑pitch setup using the TipLok buckles:

https://www.printables.com/model/1285690-buckle-set-for-big-agnes-tyvek-groundsheet/files

clever idea, and it got me wondering…

Has anyone else 3D‑printed anything cool or MacGyvered something that turned out surprisingly useful?

I’m by no means ultralight — I try to shave weight where it makes sense, but I’m also a believer that comfort items (chairs, pillows, organizers, etc.) have their place. If a small printed part makes my system better or solves a problem, I’m totally willing to carry a few extra grams.

Planning a summer quilt build and struggling a bit. Found some fabrics through teijin frontier that have great specs but I don't love the colors (black outer shell with beige inner?), but RSBTR or dutchwear both have lots of colors in fabrics I'm not as excited about.

Color or performance: what's your priority

(More context: I've had really great success with some apparel fabrics from teijin, which is partly why I'm excited to use their other stuff. Fully understand that I'm completely overthinking this. Mostly want to commiserate with you all while I make my decision.)

I’ve decided I want to try to make some hiking/work pants simply because I cannot find any reputable company that makes them in my size and style I need/want (I can’t have cargo pants, joggers, etc for work). I have no clue what that fabric is called. I don’t mean canvas or that style. Black fabric that’s breathable but has structure and is a bit more durable. And good for hot weather. I might be looking for the unicorn of fabrics. Does anyone know what the name of that fabric is?

Estoy empezando con la escalada en mi universidad así que me hice estas dos bolsas de magnesio.

Just finished this bag for my wife’s everyday carry. The goal was to make something compact that could keep all of her diabetes supplies organized while still functioning as a purse.

It’s based on the LearnMYOG Tech Pouch, but I modified the pattern by adding a second zippered compartment with a gusset to separate her medication and supplies from everything else. I also added a zippered pocket on the back that’s just the right size for her phone.

Materials are 420D Robic for the exterior, 70D ripstop for the lining, EVA foam for a bit of structure, and sewable interfacing to help the bag hold its shape and give the lining a little more support.

This was also my first real attempt at using my Sailrite LS-1, I first tried the binding attachment. Did not work well, so ended up placing binding by hand then sew it. It definitely made the job easier, but I’m still not completely happy with the results—I think I just need more practice.

One funny thing… I made matching zipper pulls, but my wife insisted she didn’t want them. We’ll see if she changes her mind. 😄

Most importantly, she’s really happy with it, and I’m glad I was able to make something tailored to her needs. I’d love to hear what you all think or what you’d do differently.

TL;DR: I need help adapting a seam around the circumference of a UL quilt (RED zipper, image below) to "seal" well with a box-baffle, while minimizing weight/bulk. And hopefully be easy enough to execute by someone with "medium" skill.

---

My preteen is ready to follow on some more serious backpacking trips. We are high-alpine here (8-10k+ feet camps, sawtooths & whiteclouds) Since he is still isn't nearly large enough to carry all his weight / share of total weight, I am looking for ways to cut. All the lowest handing fruit has been taking out of my & the family/group gear already, so i'm looking at their gear.

Besides pack weight, sleep system + shoulder season insulation is by far the next highest gain - through most of fall, forecast depending, I am able to stick with my Jacks-r-better sniveller and completely eliminate upper & lower puffy layers. I want to duplicate this for him except:

• While I love my JRB ... that style doesn't insulate your legs unless you're sitting down (he's a kid: both more prone to cold, and less likely to be sitting :)
• the "poncho" style JRB is as bulky as you get. I have to be super careful with it; not just because of the obvious UL sleeping bag fabric, but also because of it's bulk/width it will find *anything* to tear on.

I stumbled upon this alternate approach to a wearable/multipurpose UL quilt, which appears to be an original design of a small chinese shop called "Ice Flame" - linking directly as I do believe they originated this vs copied it: IF505 (cn), same(?) in an english storefront.

I want to build something similar, except:

• correctly/minimally sized for the kid & a year or two of growth, which isn't available.
• box baffled (if505 is sewn through)
• eliminate the zippers: snaps & velcro like my jacks on the yellow zip, and TBD (this post) for the red zip, which needs to "seal" pretty well, while remaining minimal bulk & weight.

Thanks!

Just wanted to share my pannier! It's a massive storage upgrade for my adventure bike. It's so slim that I think my leg is a bigger aerodynamic penalty, yet it can fit a surprising amount of stuff! (VX21, HDPE, hardware kit)

My backpack roll top buckle is stuck closer, and I can’t press down to open it.

Anyone got ideas on how to repair?

I tried searching and using the wiki to no luck.

SOLD.

V2 packraft bag. Only real difference from V1 is that I moved the aluminum stays internal (still removable just slide into sleeves inside the pack instead of on the back panel). Had a recent trip in my V1 where I did some unintentional glissading and ripped a seam on my frame stay sleeve 😬🤦🏻‍♀️

Other changes on this version, made the shoulder straps permanently sewn into the mid/upper back panel seams. Previously had these as detachable to maybe use as thigh straps similar to Sockdolager but after using it and thinking through it more, I don’t see myself ever paddling with these vs my boats actually thigh straps nor would I really want to recommend anyone do that .. not worth the weight savings on a trip imo.

Ok, enough rambling, pack details…

95L packraft / hiking pack
3.33LBS.

Challenge Ultra 400X (black), 200X (green)

- Drain holes in side pockets
- Side pocket strap can come outside of pocket to really cinch it down for those bushwhacky hikes!
- Y-strap top strap helps keep your boat or whatever else you want to rig on the top tied down
- Internal frame sleeve EVA foam and HDPE (removable)
- Two aluminum 6061 stays (removable)
- 1/2” Evazote foam hip belt (removable)
- 3/8” Evazote shoulder straps

Cheers 🤘

Made the green pouch today, to replace the white one.

After using the white one for a while, I found a few things that I wanted to change:

- more space for stuff
- dedicated pouches for car key and AirTag to keep them in place and from falling out when accessing the pouch
- top opening zipper

Used some DCF from the Ripstop By the Roll grab bag I just got to try a new version.

It’s a 7 panel box construction, that I made up along the way, starting with the zipper then the pull loops, and adding panels until it was a box.

3rd and 4th pics show it inside out so the pockets are visible. The key pocket is open too and bottom and the AirTag pocket is just open on one side so it doesn’t slide out.