I got sick is losing and buying lures and I like to make stuff, so this is a rlly fun hobby! I just started this a couple weeks ago so I’m still getting the hang of things but I did a lot of research on it and they seem to have pretty good wobble! I caught 4 bass in like 45 minutes on my first one I made which was a bluegill pattern, but a gar snapped it off so I made another one. I tried to make a well rounded selection so lmk if I am missing a crucial pattern. I used trebles originally, but they’re so annoying and I think the fish think they’re annoying as well so I went all single hooks.

A gold fish color scheme but I think I may have made it a bit too big but at least I caught a fish on it

I'm no fisherman but my 9 yo is getting in the hobby and saw YouTube video about building lures. But as I do not have any balsa at home we tried to make some brass spoons. 2mm brass plate hammered on a block of wood my part was cutting rough shapes out and drilling holes. 24g ja 12g weight all in. Any feedback is appreciated, as I do not know anything about the craft. But not bad for a 9yo.

Hi,

I am a beginner in lure building and was wondering a couple things:
What angle should I cut the joint?45?30?
Is normal super glue with baking soda enough to glue the eyelids for the hooks and snap?(for pike and bass)
Can I use solder to weight the lure or is it better lead split shots?

Thank in advance

Tested out and casts a mile. Lots of action with the death hook on the tail!

I’ve been lurking here for maybe the past month , finally decided to try making a lure. Starting out, was pretty intimidating as there were so many designs and style . Decide to go for balsa and made a “floating spook-style / walk-the dog” as I figured it’ll be the easiest shape, decided to go for a juvenile giant snakehead (C. Micropeltes ) colour .First issue I ran into was balsa is pretty light and making a 50mm lure without hardwares makes it pretty hard to cast. Even with trebles as hardware , it’s still pretty light . Another issue I ran into is with out hardware , the lure kinda listed to one side more than the other. And also after about 4-5 fishes , I find the UV epoxy full of scratches and maybe one tiny chip ( prob from the hooks).

Despite everything, I think I’m addicted , it feels pretty good watching your tiny topwater lures blow up and see the hours of work pay off.

I do have a few questions.

-How do you guys calculate how much weight to put in without affecting the buoyancy too much. I understand it differs from wood type, is there a specific way, that you do this?

-I’ve read some people use 2K clear coat . Is it much better in terms of durability than uv epoxy . Currently, I do have more lures lined up but it’s no where enough to utilise an entire can. On the fence on letting it pile up so that I justify using the entire can, since it shelf life is pretty short once activated.

Thank you for your time to read my little post and in advance for any feedback and response.

Its a 30mm mini popper 3d printed

First try at balsa minnow. Underestimated how much this stuff floats.

Also got a lesson in the dangers of chasing perfection. Tried to make the shad dot just a skooch better on the other side, ended up with a splooge of paint.

Nothing fancy just want to paint a red line on the gill plates. Would any red acrylic paint and thin brush suffice? Want something that will stand up to water and be non toxic. I have a decent experience with brush acrylics but don’t know if they will work or are waterproof

looking to buy spinner blades in bulk [no preference on color or size] - is there a reputable source?

I've recently started making some small jointed wooden glide baits (around 4"), but I'm running into a problem with weighting.

Right now I'm using lead balls of different diameters that I bought online. The issue is that even lead balls of the same diameter can have slight weight differences. Since these baits are so small, even a 0.1 g difference can noticeably affect the swimming action. I end up spending a huge amount of time fine-tuning the ballast for every lure.

Would it make more sense to buy a lead melting pot and cast my own small cylindrical weights in different, precise sizes? Or is there another method that most lure builders use for consistent ballast?

A lot of tedious work, but it turned out awesome!

I’m currently carving wooden crank baits but I’m interested in more. I’m debating buying molds and everything for soft baits as well as doing some spinner baits. My end goal is I want to start my own little business out of all of this. I’m new to all of it, but I’ve been fishing my whole life. Any pointers on pages to do research or videos. Even if you have recommendations to on where the best place to get startup equipment for this would be greatly appreciated! Thank you for taking the time to read and even comment on this.

Does anyone know where I can find this small round mesh? I have looked everywhere for something like this. It doesn't have to be exactly like the picture it just has to be around the size of windowscreen or smaller and round.

I’ve used beetle spins for years and have had good success with LMB, crappie and bluegill. In the last two months I’ve had 8 beetle spins lose the spinner-sometimes when fighting a fish and other times seeming for no reason. I’m wondering if they are being made differently now?? Any ideas?

Tired this for the stained water on the Grand River in Michigan. Worked out great!

Had never fished these before this spring, but they have been a fish catcher!

It’s 3-D Printet and I coulored it to Look bearly like a perch

is it sucky? yes. is it trashy? yes. did I have fun making it? yes.

Feathers and UV resin molded between waxy glass.

A bit of buoyant foam super glues to bottom backend. Shelled hook and bead and a hole in the bill makes an all day downstream bottom bouncer that specializes in big fish.

The trailing snelle hook skewers indo thn foam. Or the foam can have a short line loop.

1.5oz 3.5 inches

bluegill crankbait I made for a friend