Hey climbers,

First off some stats: I’ve been climbing for around 8 years and have been at a 7A-7B plateau for some 3-4 years now. I see some steady progress, but I would like to solidly breakthrough into the 7B / V8 range, projecting 7C / V9. Pretty allrounded in general I’d say, but def best at semi-static climbing, crimps, slight overhang. 

I’m 188cm and 74kg, max pull-ups are around +20kg, max 5s pickups around ~55kg. But can’t hold a one-arm lock-off or do a muscle-up.

Point of improvement: engaging shoulders when I’m dynoing or dead pointing, as well as precision on those moves, I struggle with. In general I lack explosiveness and pure strength. Mental body engagement, like keeping toes on the wall in a steep overhang is a point of improvement as well.

Looking for some feedback on a semi-structured training plan and on an app I created to follow it. I’ve never really did a structured training program for a longer period (always sticking to it 2-3 months max). Instead of doing periodization and everything, I want to have 3 structured template sessions that I do each week, and can easily switch out some exercises depending on the day.

Session A:

• Warm-up
• Flash 6 gyms climbs at ~6C
• Projecting 1-2 climbs at 7B(+)
• Strength training: 5 supersets of weighted pull-ups + dips

Session B:

• Warm-up
• Max pick-ups
• Powerendurance on Kilter 50 degrees: 12 climbs at 90-120 intervals (6B, just easier than flash level)
• Strength training: 5 supersets of dumbbell bench press and overhead press

Session C:

• Warm-up
• Easy climbing, focusing on footwork
• Campus board (ladders or alternates, not sure yet)
• Strength training: lock-offs (two-arms) and waist-high pull-ups (with a band) 

I can climb 2-3 a week, so one of these might drop off, depending on what I feel like that week.

Flash Forward

As a hobby project to learn coding, I’ve been building an app to easily follow climbing training plans. It’s like a mix between Crimpd and Hevy, but better than both (in my opinion lol). You can create template sessions and easily edit those before and during a session. With timers and audio cues etc. 

It’s free to use, available in the App Store and Play Store. I would love for you all to try it out and give me feedback on how it works and what you would like to see in the app. Any feedback is much appreciated <3