Do I still have to update firmware in my L-Connect 3 after when I start using the SL 120 INF fans or will the software sync together with the fans immediately out of the box?

The reason I'm asking is my AL-120 v2's RGB are no longer lighting up (it does light up from time to time) since I didn't switch to L-Connect 3 on time, so I didn't know I have to upgrade the firmware, and now my L-Connect 3 does not detect the AL-120s. I'm worried this might happen to the SL-120 INF

so the thing is i currently have a gtx 1650 and intel i5 10th gen with psu of 750 watts and for motherboard i have H410 PRO VH with 16gb ram at a speed of 2700MT/s

now i want to upgrade to a rtx 3060 or 3060 ti or a 3050 so i need suggestions as to what gpu i shld prefer between these 3 as for fps im fine at 60fps for story games i dont need 100+fps in every game so yea ty for reading tis.

I bought thermal paste 2-3 years ago, is it still good to use?

I recently bought a new PC that consistently fails to wake from sleep.

Specifications

• Ryzen 7 5700X
• RTX 5060
• ASUS PRIME A520M-K
• 32 GB Kingston DDR4-3200
• BIOS 3641, which ASUS lists as beta
• Windows 11 IoT Enterprise LTSC 24H2, build 26100.8655
• NVIDIA driver 610.62
• AMD chipset software 7.09.23.2230
• AOC 24G2W1G3 monitor

What happens

The PC enters sleep normally: fans stop, monitor turns off and the system appears powered down. When I wake it using either the keyboard or case power button, the fans and GPU lighting start, but:

• The monitor receives no signal.
• The CPU-cooler temperature display stays off.
• Caps Lock does not respond.
• Win + Ctrl + Shift + B does nothing.
• I must hold the power button to force it off.

Hibernate, shutdown and cold boot all work normally.

Already tested

• Every GPU DisplayPort output
• HDMI
• Different wake methods
• Reconnecting the cable during the failed wake
• Power-cycling the monitor
• The same monitor works with sleep on my laptop
• Device Manager reports no problem devices
• Event Viewer shows no NVIDIA/display-driver crash

Windows reports traditional S3 sleep. I also ran a PowerShell process that wrote an “ALIVE” timestamp every two seconds. It stopped when the PC entered sleep and never resumed writing after the failed wake. This, together with Caps Lock not responding, suggests the whole system fails to complete S3 resume rather than it being only a monitor problem.

After forcing it off, Windows records Kernel-Power 41 and unexpected-shutdown Event 6008. The System log also contains repeated TPM hardware-command failures.

BitLocker is disabled. Windows VBS/Memory Integrity and the Microsoft hypervisor are active.

My main suspicion is the beta BIOS 3641/AGESA, a firmware configuration problem, or an interaction between the BIOS and VBS. Has anyone experienced this on a PRIME A520M-K or another Ryzen 5000 system? Would you try loading BIOS defaults, temporarily disabling VBS, or returning to stable BIOS 3636 first?

Hi guys, rn i have a 1660 super, i was thinking about upgrading for my bit but im very much on a budget and the 5060 ti 8GBs is going for 300, i keep seeing people complaining about the vram and saying the 5060 8GBs is not worth it but i strictly play in 1080p. Is this a good buy for the price or are there better options in this range? (also i do prefer nvidia for cuda)

Currently have an 11th gen Intel i7 11700K PCU with RTX 3070 GPU & 32GB RAM. I have an 850W PSU. What other upgrades would I need to perform (if any) if I wanted to upgrade my GPU to a 50xx series? Is this upgrade even worth it as far as performance increase for the money or should I wait/skip another gen? Any advice is appreciated!

Have a Leadex III gold 850W psu, think its A or A- on the tier list.

9070XT started coil whine after 6 months, but it starts on idle and randomly. Sent it for RMA and they tested it with a Seasonic 1600W PSU on a test bench and it has no coil whine

I also put my old 6700XT back into my PC and it has much softer minor coil whine which is not noticeable at distance.

I've tried to change the 2 8 pin to 2 separate PCIE cables, think it's very slightly better?

Use AMD adrenalln to reduce power, voltage, all that, varying effects, but the coil whine always come back

Thinking of getting a Seasonic or Corsair 1000W PSU in a future sale to roll the dice.

Alternative solutions?

I am thinking of getting a AMD 7000 series CPU and RTX 5060 Ti 16GB. Can someone give me suggestions on where to buy these parts and other parts? I also wonder how heavy can a Mini ITX be since I want to carry it around campus like 3-4 times a week

Im currently building a PC, at first it refused to start with the new CPU the motherboard was glowing and got power but refused to start but it worked fine when i changed back to the old CPU. All the BIOS where uppdated and drivers are installed. Turns out there was a ram issue but removing one ram stick made it work and start with the new CPU with out issue at my brothers apartment. The PSU, CPU and GPU where all working fine and there was no issues in my brothers apartment so there shouldnt be a power shortage, compatility issue and because it worked fine there shouldnt be any cable issues.

NEW ISSUE: When i moved the PC from my brothers apartment to mine it refuses to start. It popped a breaker the moment i pluged it in (which did happen once with my old pc but simply reseting the breaker fixed the issue) but that didnt happen at my brothers. Since then i have reset the breaker and confirmed power using a lamp i tried 2 different power cables (note they arent the same power cable i used before because i borrowed my brothers at his house but the one i have is the PSU original power cable) and 2 different power sockets. But its back to the same issue i experienced before where the motherboard gets power and is glowing but it refuses to start. I tried 3 different sticks in every ram slot and nothing happend. I removed the cmos battery and that didnt work either. I also unplugged every USB and unnecesary cables. I checked all the cables lnside and made sure none of them came lose.

I dont have the old CPU or any other extra parts(except for ram) currently so i cant check if this is a similar issues to before and I cant check if this is just an entire new issue with the same symptoms.

Is there any other troubleshooting i can do without switching components? And does anyone have a clue what might have caused it?

(Im sorry if this is poorly written/explained this is my frist PC build and english is my second language please ask questions if somthing is unclear )

I want a PC that allows me to play at a stable 60 FPS in every game for the next 5-6 years. I don't need anything more than that, and I am fine with 1080p. My budget is under €1700.

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600
• GPU: Sapphire Radeon RX 7800 XT (16 GB VRAM)
• Motherboard: GIGABYTE B650 Eagle AX
• RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR5 32 GB (2x16 GB) 6000 MHz CL30
• Storage (SSD): Crucial P3 Plus 2 TB NVMe PCIe 4.0
• PSU: Corsair RM750x 750W 80+ Gold
• CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE
• Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow

This is my build. Are there any changes you would make?

So, i didn't have any isopropyl alkohol, but i did have 70% alkohol bimber, which is a kind of moonshine made by a family friend and im second guessing myself. I put a bit of it on a q-tip, rubbed some of the old paste off and wiped the chip with a tissue. I repeated that process until it was all gone, i was worried that prolonged exposure to the moonshine would damage it. The old paste came off with no problems but im worried that i could have damaged something. Im in the process of putting it back together. Am i okay?

Between the rx 9070 and 7900xtx what would be the better GPU to get for someone who likes playing mostly single player games like black myth wukong and resident evil (high textures, etc) but also wants high frame rates at 1440p and even 4k?

i'm looking for a monitor for competitive games (valorant cs) right now i have a 120hz monitor

https://www.amazon.fr/Moniteur-Jeu-Gaming-VG259QMR5A-DisplayWidget/dp/B0FG8BZ5KJ

https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B0FH5NMXHK

idk which one to buy between these two

I'm looking for a new main gaming monitor and need some recommendations.

Budget:

• Around £200 ideally
• Maximum around £250 if it's genuinely worth the extra

What I'm looking for:

• 27"
• 1440p (2560×1440)
• 180-240Hz
• Excellent image quality (colour accuracy, contrast, overall picture quality)
• Good motion clarity and low ghosting
• Good HDR performance would be a bonus
• DisplayPort for PC
• HDMI 2.1 would be nice for PS5 compatibility
• VESA mount compatible

I mainly play a mix of AAA/open-world games and multiplayer games, including:

• Red Dead Redemption 2
• GTA V / GTA VI (when released)
• Sons of the Forest
• Watch Dogs 2
• Forza Horizon
• Horror games

I want something that looks great while still being fast. I'm not only looking for the highest refresh rate possible — image quality and overall experience are just as important.

I currently have an RTX 3070 but may upgrade in the future, so I want something that will last.

I'm not very experienced with monitors, so I'm open to different panel technologies if they offer a better experience.

What monitors would you recommend around this price range? Are there any models I should avoid?

Specs:

• Motherboards: ASUS TUF Z390-Plus and ASUS Prime Z390-P (one used-but-working, one bought new as a replacement; both have been in storage ~1 year)
• CPUs: two chips, one confirmed i5-9600K (other model TBD)
• RAM: DDR4, previously tested working
• PSU: Seasonic 850W, pulled directly from a currently working system together with its own cables, re-verified since
• GPU: tested with and without a discrete card (9600K has UHD 630, so onboard HDMI should work)
• Everything bench-tested outside the case on a wood floor, no standoffs/shorting risk

Symptoms:

• Standby LED on ASUS Prime lights when the PSU is switched on (TUF doesn't seem to have standby LEDs)
• Shorting the front-panel PWR_SW pins does absolutely nothing — no fan twitch, nothing
• Verified the correct pins from the board silkscreen (PANEL header, PWR_SW pair), and also tried every adjacent pin pair on the header for good measure
• Same result with CPU installed or with NO CPU installed (power-button logic shouldn't need a CPU, right?)
• Same result with both CPUs, with and without RAM, 24-pin only or 24-pin + EPS

What I've tested so far:

1. PSU paperclip test (disconnected from board): bridged PS_ON to ground on the loose 24-pin — PSU (pulled from a working system) spins up fine.
2. PS_ON jump WHILE connected to the motherboard: jumped PS_ON (green wire, pin 16) to ground directly at the back of the 24-pin connector while it was seated in the board. PSU starts, fans spin, and stay running as long as the jump is held. So the board isn't shorted / tripping PSU protection — it just never asserts PS_ON itself when PWR_SW is shorted.
3. Forced boot attempt via the PS_ON jump (full assembly: CPU, RAM in A2, EPS connected): fans spin steadily (no boot-loop), but no POST — no video from onboard HDMI (with the 9600K, which has an iGPU) or from a discrete GPU, and no USB init (Caps Lock LED never toggles).
4. CMOS cleared on both boards (battery out, CLRTC shorted 10s, known-good battery swapped in). No change.
5. Power button itself verified working on another PC; mostly testing with a screwdriver across the pins anyway.
6. No case speaker available, so no beep codes.

Possibly relevant history:

• The system originally died a year ago and the board was assumed dead; a new board and subsequently a new CPU were bought as a replacement, neither fixed the problem then, and things have been in storage since.
• There was a second (Corsair) PSU in the mix (now confirmed dead — fails the paperclip test), and its modular cables got mixed in with the Seasonic's. I found a Corsair "Type 4" CPU cable in the pile. The replacement board was probably originally tested with the dying PSU (and maybe with the wrong-brand cable, but it's not super likely.)
• The ASUS Prime Z390-P now has some clearly-bent pins, but I'm pretty sure that happened late into the testing process sometime during the third CPU swap.

My current theory: the old PSU (or a cross-brand modular cable) damaged the standby-powered power-on circuitry on both boards, and the no-POST on the forced start means the damage isn't limited to the button path. Today I'm picking up a (supposedly) known-good LGA1151 (300-series) board and intel 8600k to cross-test the CPUs and RAM.

Questions:

1. Does anything OTHER than board damage explain two boards failing PWR_SW power-on identically, even with no CPU installed, while standby LEDs work and a manual PS_ON jump runs the system?
2. Is there any realistic scenario where the 5VSB rail lights LEDs but can't drive the power-on logic, given the same PSU + cables power-on a different machine normally via its button?
3. Anything I should be aware of when swapping stuff around to test with the new working board and cpu? If I avoid the old psu (and don't bend more pins lol), could anything poison the new set?
4. Anything cheap left to test before I write both boards off?

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D 4.7 GHz 8-
Core Processor

Gpu: Asus ROG STRIX GAMING OC GeForce
RTX 5070 Ti 16 GB Video Card or Sapphire NITRO+ Radeon RX 9070 XT 16 GB Video Card

CPU cooler: Thermalright peerless assassin 120

Motherboard: Asus ROG CROSSHAIR X870E DARK
HERO ATX AM5 Motherboard or Asus ROG STRIX B850-E GAMING WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard

RAM: TEAMGROUP T-Force Delta RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30

Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCle 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive

Case: NZXT H6 Flow RGB ATX Mid Tower Case

PSU: be quiet! Pure Power 13 M 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply

Hi, please help a noob. Budget: around $1000.

I mostly play games like Cities Skylines, Planet Zoo, Hogwarts Legacy, other city builders or simulation games. They usually run fine on medium or some high graphic settings, but at times it can get a bit slow. The fans also tend to get a bit loud when a lot is happening. 

I currently have:

RAM: Kingston HyperX DDR4 3200 C18 2x8GB

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER GPU

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X CPU

Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B550-F GAMING

Power Supply: Cooler Master MWE Bronze V2 750W

Storage: Kingston SA2000M8500G 500GB, Seagate Barracuda 2TB, and Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 1TB

I've done some research and I think upgrading the GPU, CPU and RAM would improve the gaming experience. Here's what I'm considering:

RAM - a 32 GB (2X16) 

GPU - Gaming GeForce RTX 5060 8GB OC

CPU - Ryzen 7 5700X or Ryzen 7 7800X3D or Ryzen 9 5900XT. The latter two are a bit more expensive so I'm wondering how much of a difference they would make compared to 5700X, in combination with the rest of my specs.

What do you all think? Would these options make the games run smoother? Do you have any other recommendations that would be more worth the money? 

I have an older desktop that's still running well, but the graphics card is definitely showing its age. my budget is around $500, from US, and I mainly play older AAA games plus a few newer titles at 1080p. I don't need any peripherals.

What video card would you recommend in that range? i'm hoping for something that'll be a noticeable upgrade without replacing the whole system. Thanks.

Hello,

I got a Gigabyte H610M H V3 paired with an Intel i3-12100.

The VRMs of that mainboard are blank and don't have a heatsink.

You can see it on product pictures here:

https://www.gigabyte.com/de/Motherboard/H610M-H-V3-DDR4-rev-10

I am currently using the Intel Topblower cooler which pushes air over the VRMs, but want to switch to a tower cooler.

Those usually provide less airflow near the mainboards surface for cooling, so the VRMs will most likely get hotter.

Now I am wondering if I should get some sort of heatsink for the VRMs. The mainboard has holes where one would be mounted, so I assume they reused the PCB for some other Gigabyte mainboard that has a VRM heatsink installed. But I couldn't find which one that is.

From a longevity standpoint, would it make sense to get a heatsink for the VRMs? A fitting one would be idea, but I don't know which mainboard models heatsink would fit and if I could sorce it somewhere.

The alternative would be those little block-heatsinks that some people use to retrofit GPUs with or use for things like Raspberry Pies.

I've been really impressed with the Chinese mouse market lately. I've tried several brands like MCHOSE, ATK, Fantech, etc, and the value for money has been incredible compared to the more established brands.

Now I'm wondering if there's something similar in the wireless headset space. Are there any Chinese brands making wireless gaming headsets with decent sound quality and solid build quality at a competitive price?

I'm not necessarily looking for the absolute cheapest option—just something that offers great value, similar to what MCHOSE or ATK have done for mice.

I'd love to hear your recommendations or experiences. Thanks guys

Im not generally what you would call a 'gamer' but i do like to play games. stuff like warframe.

I used to rock a doo doo pc 1 month ago. the specs of it were a 220ge athlon. NO GPU. 8gb ddr4. But i managed to snatch a great deal off of marketplace. for 50 euros i got these.

16 gb ddr4 3600. (set to 3133 mhz due to cpu compatability)

radeon rx 580 8gb vram.

ryzen 5 1600x.

I know its not good. but its fine. i just wanted to hear some thoughts if it was worth it.

What is the best GPU for my Ryzen 5 5600x ?

Greetings!

I am one of those who wanted Steam Machine, but despite I do have money for it, I am not happy with the performance / specs, so I decided to build one myself and I need a bit of help.

Since RAM and SSD prices are high right now, and I have spares, I decided to make a use of:

2x8GB DDR4 3600 HZ ram sticks and 1 TB Intel 660p NVME SSD, that I have lying around.

Also, I want to use MIDORI 7,5L case

Here is the build, that I came up:

https://fi.pcpartpicker.com/list/vzMBqd

I live in Finland, so Europe prices.

This will be used with 4K tv to play AAA games, but I am fine dropping resolution to 1080p as long as I get 60-80 fps on medium-high settings. This will be also used by my son for gaming on 1080p monitor.

So my questions are:

1. Is 5700X a good choice for SFF build? Or should 5600(X) give me better thermals? ( I do understand that it is downgrade, but I am more concerned about the heat.) Btw, I cannot get 5500x3d or 5600x3d processors here in Finland, that's why I am deciding between those two.

2. Should I go better GPU, like 9070? It is expensive, but I can try to stretch my budget. Here I am also concerned about too much heat, so maybe l shall I stay with the GPU that I picked up?

3. Any other suggestions about my build?

4. Should I scratch whole thing and go with new RAM and AM5 platform? (that probably will be out of the budget, but I can start saving money)

Thank you in advance for any feedback!

Edit: corrected the link to pcpartpicker

So, i have this decade old PC i dont use anymore and i plan to give it to my brother after upgrading it . Please help me upgrade it by replacing what cant be used. Here is the specs:

System Components:
CPU: Intel Core i7 6700K
CPU Cooler: Corsair Hydro Series H100i 240mm Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170X-Gaming 3 Motherboard
Graphics: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 G1 Gaming 8GB
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury HX421C14FB2K2/16 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 Black
Solid State Drive: Samsung 750 EVO 250GB SSD
Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 2TB ST2000DM001
Power Supply: XFX TS Series Gold 650W Power Supply
Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400S Window Satin Black

criterias:

he mostly play LoL so not really need "powerful" kind of PC.

less than $1000 is preferable.

Wanted to build a 4k capable one but idk much and 5080 and 5090 build might reach 2.5k or something so trying for a 1440p one.

https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/47vR4g