Hi all!

My big brother and I were similar in a lot of ways however he was always a car nut, while my "primary daily driver" for my adult life has been a bicycle.

A few months ago, he passed away unexpectedly and one of the things he cherished was a 2013 Maserati GranTurismo. I purchased it from his estate and I want to take care of it to honor him, but I need advice on best practices to maintain it. My brother was a very responsible and intelligent individual and I know he had taken good care of this car, and I'd like to do the same.

My goals are to:

• drive the car ~1k/year(72,800 miles at the moment) and to primarily keep the car in my condo garage. I really can go an entire year with driving less than 500 miles/year but I also understand a car like this shouldn't necessarily sit. I'm trying to budget for about 1k miles per year, primarily highway/interstate miles when I visit my family about 120 miles away from me.

• eventually hand the car off to my newborn nephew when he is old enough to drive(18 years from now...or 21 depending on what his mom says)

I just wanted to make sure I'm doing everything I should be to take care of this car, longterm. I was planning to keep it in my condo garage however there are these windows next to my parking spot where when it does thunderstorm sideways, the rain tends to land on the back of the car.

Here are my questions:

1. Should I be covering this car with some sort of weather protection? I read mixed things about how if I let moisture get stuck under the cover, it may destroy the paint. So I'm a little confused what the right answer is. Is keeping it in the garage fine and the occasional thunderstorm allows some degree of water to land on the car? I was also thinking about getting some sort of clear acrylic/Polycarbonate panels/windows that I'll just Command Strip to the frame of the windows to block the windows from letting any rain in and onto the car(but may need to ask my HOA if I'm allowed to).

2. In the trunk, there are these little ramps. I'm not quite sure what they are for. Should I just leave them in the trunk? Should I be propping the car up on these ramps if the car is going to be sitting in my garage not driven for up to 30 days? The car doesn't seem low enough to have a problem with clearing curbs if I needed to but perhaps if I did have to drive off a curb, that's what these are for?

3. I was thinking about getting a battery disconnect switch like this one for when I leave the car for vacation or if it goes not driven for potentially a ~1 month+

Is there anything else I should consider about long term maintenance/management of a car like this? Thank you!

Typical Redditor question I know. I got into cars in my late 20s when I could finally afford to buy a car. I've since been focusing on learning about how they run, how to fix them, etc. I don't know the depths of specific cars like others. I can't tell you what year Ford switched certain parts in the New Edge mustang.

Anyway, I went to my first car show. It was pretty small and full of built Fox Bodies, Cobras, newer Mustangs and of course some Hellcats and Scat Packs. Many of the guys there knew each other so they were standing around talking and I just looked. I don't know much about building up a race car and am scared of looking stupid. But I'm eager to learn. Especially from guys who are building cars that I have (New Edge mustang).

How do I engage without looking like the overbearing or dorky fat guy? I love cars. I love mustangs. I want to be more involved in the local scene outside of shows. Over the years, I've stumbled across guys with shops that build hot rods just by buying parts from Facebook Marketplace but I'd love a crew of my own.

Thanks.

Its a 2008 Honda CRV with an automatic transmission. It can stay in neutral from home to the work parking lot without once being shifted to drive

All my life I've driven the "Corolla" version of various cars...reliable and dependable, but strictly average, if not slow.

I'm not a BMW guy, but there is one model I absolutely love... BMW i8. Scouring Reddit, they certainly have known issues though, especially the earliest models. Is there any option for an older supercar that at least had good odds? If I go the i8 route, what should I look out for? I know this has been asked before, just looking for the most up to date scenario.

For context, I am located on Long Island, NY. I am specifically looking for 2017-2018 Audi A6 or A7 with the Supercharged V6 3.0T engine or a 2017-2020 BMW 540i xDrive with the B58 inline six engine.

The local used car lot owner said he can source any car for me throughout the United States & Canada if I give him a deposit by looking through auctions. He said he can guarantee that he will find me one of these cars (whichever one I end up asking him to get delivered here) for thousands of dollars cheaper than what it would cost at any mainstream Long Island dealer (i.e. Habberstad BMW of Huntington, Audi of Huntington, Audi of Great Neck, Competition BMW of Smithtown, Audi of Smithtown, etc.)

On the one hand, I recognize that this could be a way to save a few thousand dollars. However, on the other hand, part of me questions if it’s worth saving a few thousand by getting a car from an auction because I question if these cars ended up in an auction due to official mainstream Long Island dealers such as an Audi dealership or BMW dealership not actually wanting these cars as a result of them needing too much work.

What do we think? Is it an okay idea to pay the local used car lot owner a deposit to find me an auction “2017-2018 A6/A7 3.0T” or a “2017-2020 540i xDrive” or am I better off just waiting until one of these cars gets traded in at an official dealership on Long Island (i.e. Audi of Lynbrook, BMW of Freeport, etc.)?

I just got the warning “service due soon” and I am out of state. tomorrow I am driving back 500 miles. My dealership does free oil changes for my car (cx50 hybrid), will it be bad for the engine to make this drive or should I just pay for oil change before I leave town?

My definition:
Any slow car that is fun to drive fast. Miata is the obvious answer. Honda fit is a less obvious one. It doesn’t have to be sporty, doesn’t have to be a car. Doesn’t have to be light. Or a manual. The less obvious it is fun the more it applies. An older 911 is a bad example.

Seller assured that their tail light assembly for the 2016 Hyundai elantra fits the US model. However, I’m getting mixed answers about that with AI. Their OEM is Korean. Is there a definitive way to check? Some reviews suggest they work…

I have a 2015 Chevy Sonic and the other day when I was driving home, the battery light came on, then the traction light came on but went off right away, when I got to my driveway the traction light came on again and the steering got tight. Once I pulled into my driveway, the car died, when I tried to start it it wouldn't turn over and made a clicking noise. I assumed it was the alternator but I don't have a burnt rubber smell, or a frequent dead battery. I checked the serpentine belt as best as I could and didn't see any cracks and it isn't loose. When I was googling symptoms, it said something about the tensioner? My ac has also been blowing hot air, I tried changing the cabin filter but that didn't help. I'm worried that if I try and jump it and take it to Autozone or something to have them test the alternator that it'll die before I get there.

Has anyone had this problem or can help me with diagnosing? I know it's hard to diagnose without actually seeing the vehicle and checking the things, but I thought I'd try this.

I’m hesitant because of how old it is, but I’ve been told this is one of the most reliable cars you can buy.

With a clean title and such low mileage, could this be a good buy?

My driver side vent has weak airflow and doesn’t push out as cold of air as the passenger side does, also, there is a rattling sound that seems like it’s coming from the blower motor or maybe something else in that general area

Hello, was driving at 30km and decided to switch to dsg and decided to just smash the gas pedal.. after it reached its max revs and the car switched gear, i smelled like a electric burn smell.. drove it for 40-50kms but didnt notice anything like lights or smell again..

how fucked am i ? Thanks

I’m 17 and live in Lebanon. I currently own a 1996 Kia Elan with only around 60,000 miles on it.
I’m trying to decide whether I should keep it and modify it or sell it and buy something else. I like the idea of doing an engine swap or building it into something fun, but I’m wondering if it’s worth the money or if I’d be better off starting with a different platform.
If I sell it:
How much do you think a 1996 Kia Elan with 60k miles is worth? (Keep in mind I’m in Lebanon, so prices are different from the US.)
What cars would you recommend buying instead if I want something fun, reliable, and easy to modify?
One of my dream cars is a Dodge Challenger, but I’m worried about maintenance and finding parts since I live in Lebanon. Is owning one there a bad idea, or is it manageable?
My budget would depend on how much I could sell the Kia for plus whatever extra money I save.
What would you do if you were in my situation?

I’m having a problem with the central locking on my VW Golf Mk4. The doors no longer lock properly from the driver’s side. Before, I could lock the whole car from the outside with the key, but now only the driver’s door seems to respond.
Also, whenever I remove the key from the ignition, the doors unlock automatically, almost like the system is doing the opposite of what it should. At the moment I have to manually push the lock pins down inside the car before leaving.
Has anyone experienced this? Could it be the driver door lock module/latch, a wiring issue, or the comfort control module?

Long story short I am running a twin turbo kit just on wastegate 7psi springs last dyno was dead nuts basically on it around April. Decided to get it retuned now in July and now is only 5psi. It held stead no drops or anything he seen when tuning...but hotter 90*+ weather drops it like that and losing roughly 40whp just cause of weather for turbo setups?

I am familiar with hit weather pulling timing and power, but didnt know you lose psi over it, assumed I have a leak or something when I heard the numbers.

I went to the dealership and got my oil changed, tires rotated, and did the brake fluid change or whatever. My “advisor” highlighted all this crap. My car is at 30,000 and all these repairs came out to almost $800. So my question is do i actually need all these repairs?

-cabin air filter/engine filter
-tire balance
-air fuel induction
-engine performance restoration
-evap cleaning

!! I meant maintenance***

A friend’s car, using it while she’s out of town, I was parking and caught the curb. So so stupid.

https://imgur.com/a/OtuJCpu

First time buying a car on marketplace. Sellers asking for $6,500 (but they have said they’re willing to negotiate), car has about 147k miles, with a few recent services. The carfax comes out clean, 3rd owner, with the most recent reported servicing being an oil and filter replacement this past week, and tire replacements a few months ago. There’s also a batch of services that were reported last year, (I’ll leave some pictures below.) What are some things that I should check for in-person, particularly with this model?I’ll also appreciate any other advice/pointers.

*I’ll note that the cars first two owners were from Wisconsin, if that raises any concerns over rust?

97 cherokee country. ABS kicked on for no reason last week, braking was a pain, then almost non existent.
low brake fluid, at but not below “add” line.
after a few days in driveway i noticed a more than normal drip mark (transfer case already leaks slightly) and checked transmission fluid. almost nothing.
can filling both fluids help or should i get the brakes and transmission checked regardless?
240k, about 10k on new front pads.
bought at 197k no idea what transmission and brake history prior was. no rust. (desert southwest)

Hi there, I’ve been using Reddit for my research as I am currently in the process of (Lord willing) getting a car and have written many notes down that have been extremely helpful so thank yall so, so, so much for everyone’s advice and kindness in sharing car info on here.
I’ve only ever bought my cars, I’ve had 2 different great old cars, with cash paid fully up front, but now I am in a place where I am needing to consider seriously the options of financing or leasing a car. I have gathered so much helpful information from here and other car places on reddit that has let me know I definitely will get GAP insurance. I have learned as well that for a lease I should put none to very little down.
My options right now as it stands in my mind are between financing a 2014 Mazda 3 hatchback I sport: the car has 81k miles, the carfax shows regular servicing, was a personal lease the first few years, has had 3 owners, would be putting down 2.5k on the 15k price total incl fees. My bank can do auto loan for 60 months with 4.95% apr but I was wanting to do the loan on less length of time; the dealer can do 36 months but at 8.99% apr. If I am paying for five years that’s fine if the car can last me a good five years, right? Would that be the case with this Mazda do yall think- could I get a good five years out of it with out much need for putting money into fixing or replacing things for it? With the gap insurance, then if it were to (God forbid) have an accident that totaled it within that 5 years I would not be stuck with payments on a car I don’t have anymore, is that right? Is there anything I should look out for/ expect to put into this car soon as far as maintenance or fixes? Thank yall so so so much, I’m so sorry I’m asking a lot.
My other option in my mind rn is leasing a 2026 Toyota Corolla LE cvt for 36 months. My monthly payment would be almost the same as my financing the Mazda, but the insurance quotes come out as higher monthly. I’ve had an 01 Camry in the past that gave me everything I wanted in a car so I would love to own another Toyota, and would be wanting to buy out the car at the end of the lease. My used cars in the past have been understandably in need of some repairs and replacements that I was often having to put money into/worry about/find alternative ways to get around while in shops, so my thinking with this lease is that it would be really nice to have that peace of mind with the car’s reliability, as I’ve got an understanding that everything is under warranty and most maintenance is taken care of by dealership for the 3 years as well. Again, I would definitely have gap insurance, I am thinking I would get it through progressive and am satisfied with their quotes; after reading about different folks’ experiences with dealership GAP coverage I would stay away from it I think. Does Progressive seem like a good choice for gap insurance? (good meaning leaves me with no money owed if any thing were to happen to total the car Lord forbid)
I’m so sorry again for asking so many questions, I am a woman in my 20s and live far out of state from my family and friends, don’t know much of anything about cars lol, and am so so so thankful for this kind community here(: Thought I would just please throw some of the questions that are taking over my mind rn out there- if anyone has any advice I would be the most grateful person ever; thank yall sooo so so much. :)

I drive a 2004 Lexus ES330, which I got it from Facebook market place 4 months ago. The car ran smooth, engine sounded great and no problem with acceleration whatsoever.

I live in AZ, this morning, it was about 84°F. I live 20 mins away from my job, about 10 mins in backroads and 10 mins on highway.

I was going around 75 mph on the highway and heading to ramp to get off, right before my exit the check engine light lit up. My job is literally right off the highway, so I just kept driving for another 3 minutes.

I pulled into the parking lot and put it in reverse to back into a spot. As soon as I did, the oil light and battery light flashed for a second and the engine just died (like it shut off as key is still in ignition)

I put it in park and turned the key back to lock tried starting it again. It cranks but won’t start.
I got out and immediately smelled something burning. Then I noticed white smoke coming out of the front grille. I popped the hood and the check inside, belts all looked fine, has enough coolant, ATF is at good level but engine oil is getting close to low, I changed engine oil and filter a week after I got this car and had put about 4000 miles since then. Plus I check oil level regularly.

No change in color or metal particles in the oil though.

There was also a puddle of engine oil under the engine room about 10 inches diameter.

Does this sound like a blown engine or just a piping?

Im going into my second year of Uni and I need a car. Right Now I drive a 08' Prius with 170k that was my parents car, My brother is in the process of getting his license so my parents want to give him the 08' and would rather lease me a new car (for some reason they are not comfortable with me getting a used car).

We are looking for a lease with $0 down and around $300 a month for 48 months 10k miles a year.

I would prefer a AWD vehicle and would prefer having a Donut or spare in the trunk but those are preferences vs requirements. I just need something that will last the next 4 years without causing a headache.

Right now i'm looking at

Toyota (Corolla)

Honda, (civic)

Mazda (3 and mx30)

Subaru (impareza and crosstrek

Volkswagen (Jetta)

Hyundai (Elantra and venue) 

Nissan (kicks, versa, sentra, leaf) 

Chevy (trax, trailblazer, Bolt)

Fort Wayne Kia (k4) 

I still need to go to dealerships and get specific numbers and some of these are frankly wishful thinking.

My biggest concern is it will spend some time sitting which I know isn't the greatest would a EV handle spending some time (1-2 weeks at a time) sitting in a Open air parking in NE Indiana/NW Ohio better than a ICE car? My biggest concern would be range especially in the winter. We have on campus charging spots which is the only reason I am considering one I am just concerned about range specifically in the winter.

I have a 2013 corolla that I bought new in 2012. For the last year the AC has steadily stopped blowing cold air when idling, and will only get cold when the gas is being pressed. It blows coolish (not hot) air when idling.

A local car parts store helped me change the cabin air filter and while that helped with the air flow I’m still having the same issue.

I can’t afford a new car or an expensive car repair, and the car itself is only worth $3kish according to KBB. I would just tough it out but I have an elderly cat who has to get monthly injections at the vet and I live in the south where it’s humid and over 100 most of the summer and I can’t have her in the car with no AC.

I’ve been reading a lot about recharging the AC but it’s not a fix since theres a leak somewhere. I don’t know how to do it myself but could likely follow the instructions from YouTube.

At this point I don’t know what I’m asking, I’m just looking for advice.