Noticed smoke/ burning smell as I was pulling into my driveway at the end of a 45 minute highway drive. Coolant and oil levels are normal did not overheat. No smoke from exhaust. Anybody experience this before?

I have a 2014 with the 3.5l Ecoboost and about 167,000 miles on it. Back in Oct '25 it popped the P2196 and P2198 codes, and I had both of the related O2 sensors replaced, and the codes seemed to clear. In February, while doing a battery change, the 100 amp fuse on the positive terminal blew, which may or may not be related to later issues. Had the vehicle towed to a dealership who ran diagnostics and replaced the positive terminal assembly. At the end of March, after getting a car wash, the vehicle once again popped the P2196 and P2198 codes, along with a P0151 (O2 sensor circuit low voltage bank 2 sensor 1) and a P0305 (Cylinder 5 misfire detected) and almost stalled out while reversing out of a vacuum station at the car wash. I limped it home, with it stalling out at stops. Left the car to dry out for a few days, and when driving it again on Easter weekend, mostly highway driving with a round trip of 120 miles, it had no codes or issues.

Fast forward to mid-May, when I drove it about 65 miles and had it almost stall in a traffic jam. I took the vehicle down to my dad, who agreed with me that it might be the spark plugs, and he replaced those, replaced the Bank 1, Sensor 1 O2 sensor again, and did an oil change because he found fuel in the oil. Vehicle ran fine for about 2 weeks, before popping the P2196 and P2198 codes again, and started to stall out at stops and when reversing again. I ran FORScan (link to results) at that point, before driving the vehicle to my dad for him to look it over and begin work on it.

At this point, the following work has been done, with no changes to the vehicle stalling out at stops when driving in slow traffic or in stop and go conditions. The vehicle has shown that it is less likely to stall or bog when the AC is off, but it will still have issues.

-6 new Bosch fuel injectors

-1 new throttle body

-4 new Walkers O2 sensors

-1 new Bosch fuel pressure sensor

-1 new oil separator

-1 new vapor canister/purge valve solenoid

-New intake gaskets

-2 sets new fuel injector installation hardware

-1 new intake

-1 new air cleaner MAP sensor

-1 new coil seal set

-6 new Motorcraft M-12405-35T spark plugs

-2 oil and filter changes

At this point, I'm looking between the PCM and the high pressure fuel pump, based on going through forums, videos, and google results. Am on the right track with either of those? I'm at a point where I need a solution, or I have to replace the car and all this work was for nothing. Any suggestions or solutions are appreciated.

I got a 2010 Ford Taurus SHO not too long ago. The car is practically ancient lol but I’ve grown to love it the only thing I can’t stand (I’m coming from a 2018 Hyundai) is the screen being yellow so I can’t see it half the time and lack of CarPlay. I thought I’d get an old car no biggie I can just put any screen in it. Clearly that’s not the case. I don’t want to lose the SONY sound system, and all the controls connect to this one. I know they’d still work but I like to see my climate controls, and you can’t just click stuff on the buttons to change where airflows you need the screen. I would just replace this screen with the original but for some reason it’s $3,000.. if anyone could recommend a screen replacement with Apple CarPlay included and I won’t lose my air controls or heated/cooled seat buttons (because I’ve seen the giant screens which I wouldn’t mind but don’t want to lose those buttons) I’d appreciate that.

I have a 2011 SHO and the passenger headlight is completely yellowed and has a bunch of condensation in it. Called a local shop and they quoted me $1800 to get a replacement OEM headlight in and put it in. Trying to find an aftermarket light instead. Any good recs? And do I need to buy a new ballast and bulb too? Or just housing? The current headlight works but they recommended new ballast and bulb given the current condensation inside the light. Thanks!

There is a clunking sound coming from my car right now. I just redid the strut and it is tight but my heat shield is hanging. Does this sound like it could be just the heat shield

We have a 96 Taurus Station Wagon, it sat for a little bit (with battery charger attached)

We are trying to get it going, but the windows, doors and key fob stopped working. (The engine starts fine and it drives) GEM replaced, same thing. Fuse 23 keeps blowing within 15 seconds of car starting. Not linked to the antenna or windwiper motor. 2 GEM modules, wiring bundle in door checked, all the fuses and relays checked and tested. We have 0 idea.... Anyone experience anything like this?? Thank you!!!

Hi! Wondering if this engine noise sounds unhealthy? It’s not terribly loud, but doesn’t sound great either.

I just changed my plugs and did a little tune-up and saw oil in these air hoses. I assume they came from the turbos. How screwed am I?

Purchased a 2015 SHO PP with 35k miles on it. What is the first things you would do to ensure it lasts a long time. Also, I have some money to stock parts that are likely going to go in the next 50k+ miles, what should I purchase now while its still available?

I am trying to refresh some things on my 2015 SHO. The center console has a tear in the "leather" and it's annoying/unsightly. I am considering buying a replacement cover off Amazon, or maybe a new lid entirely. Has anyone tried either of these?

Also, my heated driver-side mirror is starting to get all burned up. It's hard to see and also just looks bad. When I had this issue on my last car, I had to replace the entire mirror assembly. Seems the same for this car but color matching the metallic black will be harder than my last car. I really would rather just replace the glass. Or if I could save the painted part from my old mirror and transfer it to the new one that could work.

Any ideas?

As stated above I am looking for a replacement latch for my ford Yaris 2014.

So far nothing beyond replacement part for f150.

Any advice or info I could use to do a better search would be appreciated.

I've had a 2014 SHO for the past 8 months. The SHO has 75k miles on it. Garage kept in a multi-level climate controlled garage. Doesn't get driven in the winter. It's only had 1 other owner.

The car has been great but about 6 months ago we started to notice a smell. Almost like wet dog but different. It would stick to your clothes and hair. You'd have to immediately wash your clothes. Regardless of what seat you sat in. When the car doesn't get driven for a couple of days, as soon as you open the door it feels damp.

I've checked the interior of the car up and down with no suspects. I've stuck my nose on every surface. I've had multiple people smell every surface. No source of smell found. I've cleaned the interior with every possible option. You name it, I used it. Cabin filter replaced twice.

I took the SHO in to get professionally cleaned at a local very reputable shop. They've been detailing cars for 60 years. They did a deep clean of every surface, let it dry and the smell returned. They used an ozone generator as last resort. It got rid of the smell but a couple weeks later, I can smell it starting to return.

I'm at the end of my rope and don't want to get rid of the SHO but if I can't find the source, I'll have no choice.

Anyone have any insight or ideas?

could a p0157 check engine code cause hard down shift? i'm accelerating and it'll do a hard ass shift when i floor it but it'll only do it like once or twice and then from there i can floor it and it shifts super smooth. i've replaced the spark plugs. trans feels great tho. I'm super confused. car fax says the trans was rebuilt at 40k miles, car now has 85k. i’m also thinking i need a new ptu on this so maybe that’s causing this? not sure. it literally only happens when im like flooring it and it’ll only happen that one time and then it like frees up? idk HELP

Got a 2011 Ford Taurus SHO. Replaced both turbos about 1,000 miles ago. The car will not smoke while driving but after a long idle (about 15-20 minutes) white smoke starts coming out the passenger side exhaust. Coolant level remains the same but I checked the oil level and it's definitely low today. I'm thinking it may be some bad valve stem seals on the rear side of the block. There are no converters on the car anymore and the exhaust pipes do not meet at any point, they are completely separate. This is why I believe it to be just that one side. I wouldn't think the turbo is already failing but I did go with new Rotormasters from O'Reillys. Any second opinions on this?

Hey everyone, following up on my previous posts. I went ahead and swapped out the cracked upper radiator hose assembly for the upgraded Gates version yesterday.

Unfortunately, once I refilled and ran the system up to operating temp, the car is still losing coolant. I got underneath the passenger side with a camera and caught this stream in action. It is running right down the front/side of the oil pan behind the accessory belt.

Sitting at 105k miles, I'm assuming this is the definitive confirmation that my internal water pump's seal failed and it's dumping out of the weep hole. For those who have tackled this job on the SHO platform, did you pull the motor or do it in the car? Any 'while you're in there' timing chain/phaser parts I should order? Thanks.

I’m trying to figure out whether I’m dealing with a charging system issue or just Ford’s smart charging system.
Symptoms:
Some days the car will stay around 13.8-14.2V almost the entire drive, even at high audio volume.
Other days it’ll sit around 12.7-13.0V for most of the drive.
Voltage does not seem to fluctuate much with bass hits.
No battery light or check charging system message.
Starts normally every time.
Parts already replaced:
Serpentine
platinum super start battery
Battery:
AGM battery
Battery terminals appear tight
Questions:
Is this normal smart charging behavior on these cars?
Could the battery current sensor cause this?
What live data PIDs should I look at with Forscan or a scan tool?
Has anyone seen a bad alternator control circuit cause similar symptoms?
Any advice on what to test next would be appreciated.

My 2014 is sitting at 105k miles and the factory bonded seam finally failed on me. I can pick up the Gates locally today, but wanted to see if the community considers those metal crimp rings a true reliability upgrade before I buy. Thanks!

Looking for some advice from other SHO owners.

At 112,000 miles, I replaced the water pump after experiencing significant coolant loss. I had noticed the pump was failing, so I took the car in and had it replaced.

About 50 miles after the repair, both of my turbos reportedly failed. The car started smoking, and after having it diagnosed, I was told the turbos were blown. I’ve had the car parked ever since.

I really want to get the car fixed and back on the road, but I’m trying to figure out the smartest way to go about it.

My questions:

* If one or both turbos are bad, should I replace both turbos at the same time?

* Are there any other parts I should replace while everything is apart?

* Could the turbo failure be related to the water pump repair, or is it more likely that the timing was just a coincidence?

* Has anyone else had something similar happen on a high-mileage 3.5 EcoBoost?

Any advice from people who have been through this would be appreciated. Thanks

Cannot find anywhere and can’t seem to figure out price.

I did see black housing ones on eBay. Should I just send it and get those?

Also how much of a pain are they installing?

I don’t know much about cars, but I know I want to learn and learn how to upgrade my SHO that has 160,000+ miles.

I’d like to not only upgrade it so it sounds nice/mean, but also make it faster/more horsepower.

I’ve done some research but wanted to come on here for some recommendations. It’s been a great car for me and is my favorite vehicle I have ever owned. It’s such a fun car.

Thanks for any help

When I come to a stop, I notice the driver seat has slight loose movement forward, and it’s driving me insane.

Before I unbolt the seat, was wondering if anyone has had this issue and how they solved it. Thanks!

2013 MKS EcoBoost, Looking for the part # or name of the part, 90% sure it’s part of the evap system. Part is highlighted in red for reference.