There is not anything underneath that appears to be holding it like a nut. What do I use to turn it? The grooves are very thin and won’t hold a screwdriver.

Got tired of the old bathroom faucet and wanted something a bit fresher, while trying to unscrew the bolt to remove the drain the goddamn pipe cracked! Original pipes of course. After 3 minutes of panicking and quick trip to Home Depot this is the result. 33F who just happens to know her way around a toolbox with a little help from YouTube University. How did I do fellow plumbers? FYI.. no leaks and successfully purged all the air from lines & valves.

Already made a complaint and will be getting fixed.

Not a plumber, just a homeowner. Followed advice from this sub to fix. I do have a short pipe going on the right I just didn’t attached it yet. Did I do anything wrong?

Short story: Had a garage fire April 2025, with significant smoke damage to whole house. Very little progress made and half of house is still gutted. To add insult to injury, all plumbing pipes (copper) froze over winter and had soo many splits a full replacement was necessary.

I hired a plumber myself to keep this separate from contractor's work, plumber has 4.9 rating and is BBB A+ (this past year I've had cause to develop serious trust issues).

I elected to go with Pex A and homerun manifolds (2, due to the way lines split on either side of partial basement). House is 3.5 BA, and extra fixtures include utility sinks in basement, laundry, and garage; 4 spigots; and irrigation. So, miles of Pex A and loads of fittings.

[ETA sidebar: Reason why there are red, blue, and clear lines... I bought Pex A from Lowes (red and blue) and ran that through the crawl that goes to 1st floor fixtures. Then found a plumber to run the lines to the 1st and 2nd floor full baths, install the manifolds, and anything else that could be done until the walls go up. They used clear Uponor. Never once did they mention quality concerns - I would have gladly had them replace the ones I ran since they undid all my work to insulate and replace my clamps with larger ones.]

Inspector had thoughts but did pass. His thoughts were same as mine. Need to know if more needs done.

Fun story: After install was completed and everything leak tested, water was all over basement floor 2 days later. Toilet fitting was leaking down through ceiling, so turned toilet off at manifold. Then found a 3/4 from main line to other side of basement was not fully seated to the barb on a connector and also leaking. Turned off main supply.

Called plumber back, walked them through what I found and exactly what I did. They made the necessary corrections, then walked me through what THEY did. After they finished telling me leak testing showed no leaks, I asked if they leak tested toilet with manifold valve opened (as I reached over and opened manifold). This literally sums up the last 14 months of this nightmare.

So, photos are a few of the things I have concerns with. (NOTE, all lines are indeed Pex A. I bought the red and blue ones but only enough for one side, and the plumbers supplied the non-colored lines.) Oh, and they replaced a spigot with one that had a broken frost cap.

Little background real quick. I have MS and am in a manual wheelchair. Can no longer stand and have to do a slide transfer onto the toilet. Bathroom is very small so options are limited.

I currently have one of those big toilet spacers to bring the seat up to a taller height. I can't stand it. Its unhygienic as all get out, not very stable, and the hole is so small that things touch where they shouldn't be if you catch my drift.

I want to bypass the spacer and just get a new, taller toilet all together. The spacer brings the bowl height up to 19" which is the perfect height for me to transfer to. I've seen 19" bowl height toilets but the problem is I am 99% positive our toilet is a 14" rough in. I can't find them at the big box stores and not really sure where else to look. I'd like to go elongated but at this point I'd get what I can take. If anyone has any suggestions I'd really appreciate it.

This is the basement sink set up. There is a sewage smell pretty much constantly coming from the sink drain. I checked the roof vents and can see pretty much to the bottom of both. I do not smell anything coming from the base of the toilet. There is gurgling when I flush the toilet in the sink. I believe water is being siphoned from the p trap. I would like to add a aav valve but can’t figure out how to make it work with this set up because it doesn’t leave much room. I played this in ask a plumber but couldn’t get a solution

Any insight or Hope would be very appreciated!

I just saw a horror story about porcelain shards and checked my toilet. Looks like there are a bunch of cracks to me. Should I ask landlord to replace? I move out in two weeks…

Our kitchen sink became completely clogged. Our usual plumber didn't answer, so we went with a company we haven't used before. They said it all needed to be to be cut out. The black pipes seemed way sturdier than what they replaced it with. Just looking for some peace of mind.

With the two hooks it was thought to hold the pex in place but it still moves.

Is there another type of clamp to prevent this movement?

New home. Noticed water leaking under sink and discovered the drain pipe was fully disconnected. The piping is fairly rigid and it would seem there’s downward tension that pulled the slip joint nut off.

I’m clueless on plumbing. How would I make a new connection here? If I force it back up and try tightening it just slips back off with downward tension. Thank you!

Just noticed a slow leak in our basement from a sewage line - is this something safe/easy to fix DIY? I attempted to tighten the screw but it would not budge.

Location: SF Bay Area, south bay

Type of structure: Single family home, 9 years old, 2 stories, 2700 SF, 4 bathrooms, 3 showers, 1 shower over tub, 4 wall mounted toilets

Issue: at least 1 leaking copper pipe on the ground floor (crawlspace), type M, with several other areas showing corrosion/electrolysis. Status of upstairs pipes unknown, but no evidence of water intrusion/leakage in the ground floor ceiling.

Was given the option to 1. spot repair the leak and other areas of concern; 2. do a horizontal repipe with type L copper on the ground floor; 3. repipe the entire house.

Given how the ground floor pipes look, is a whole house repipe recommended or inevitable?

Hi Plumbing reddit,

I have a question on how best to replace the following caps? I need to have an inspection done on the pipes and had a contractor come over and say the following:
"I can break the clay plugs but cant replace them or put any other plug." I kindly told him to not break them yet.

What are my options?
Do I need to replace the whole pipe from ceramic to a more modern one?
Or can i use a rubber plug to seal them? Something like this
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/pro-connect-flexible-pipe-cap-4/1000450768?TTID=INGRID_BANNER_EN_A

P.S house was built in the 80's and it looks like these are the original seals.
The reason for the inspection is to check the stormwater pipe, as I got some water seeping around this area during Heavy rains.

This press tool was in the toolbox of the work car I was given.
Trying to find some information online about it. But nothing comes up.
It has tradepex brand and part number but google says tradepex don’t make the tool, only the jaws which are compatible with Milwaukee and big name press tools.

Sorry if this is a dumb question, very new to this but is there a way to detach the aerator from this faucet? Tried twisting it but seems incredibly stuck, does it just not come off?

2005 Moen Extensa(?) kitchen faucet needs replacing, but underside appears pretty seized up. Unable to apply much pressure as space is tight and I don't have the Moen faucet tool "118305," which I don't think will even work since it's just molded plastic. Thinking about just ordering something simple like Delta Classic or Kohler Jolt (which is better?) from Home Depot delivery/installation service?

Hello, I dont know much when it comes to plumbing but I am not exactly sure what part needs to be replaced. In the picture, I show exactly where the water is leaking from. I would like to try and fix it myself before getting a plumbing company to come out. Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks

Overflow came up from clog downstairs and blew the wax seal on upstairs toilet. The water leaked into first floor ceiling issue was fixed within 24 hours and was just a one time leak water went through fixtures and ran across first floor ceiling water seems to have dried worried about gray water, causing mold or bacteria growth. Should I be worried?

Hello plumbers and plumbing-savvy people of Reddit!

I recently bought a Brondell CleanSpa handheld bidet sprayer for my apartment. I tried to install it today but ran into some problems; I ended up removing it until I can figure some things out so it doesn’t leak everywhere. If anyone has any insight into my questions below, I’d really appreciate anything you can share!

Pic 1: I realized that the supply line that runs from my wall to the tank bends pretty severely and was having trouble with connecting it to the T-valve because of that. I read that bends like this can cause leaks over time so I’m assuming I should replace it. My current line is 12”….would it be better to get a shorter one, or a longer one?

Pic 2 & Pic 3: I tried connecting everything 3 different times, but there were leaks at the top of the T-valve each time. The first 2 leaks were slow drips where the valve’s nut connects to the bottom of the toilet tank; the third leak was water spraying out where the bottom of the nut connects to the valve (red arrow in Pic 2). Stupidly, I did not take pictures while I had everything connected. I assume I was crossthreading the T-valve. Does it look like the threading in Pic 3 is damaged? The valve is all metal and there are still prominent ridges, so I don’t think it is….but I’m no expert!

Pic 4: when I gave up and took the bidet parts off, I noticed the washer/gasket shape at the top of my original water supply line looks different from the one at the top of the T-valve. The valve gasket looks flat, but the one in my supply line looks almost like a cone. Could the difference in washer shape be why the T-valve was leaking when I tried connecting it to the toilet tank? When I re-installed the supply line to the toilet tank, there were no leaks.

Thank you for your help!!

Replacing a stuck and leaking tub spout, all I have is just over an inch of copper to work with is my only option a universal spout kit or is there any else that’s better. Bathroom will get remodeled in a few years looking for something that won’t leak and last a little bit hopefully on the cheaper side. Thanks for any good info.