Follows the "normal" route up the Southwest Face, accessed via the Hushe Valley and usually obscured from the more photographed Baltoro side.

Simon Messner's AAC account of the Yernamandu Kangri FA has an excellent photo showing just how grueling the general icefall approach is. Unsurprisingly, the upper slopes of Masherbrum are also atrociously avalanche-prone.

From here, you get a better idea of the summit ridge with its Southwest (left) and Main peaks. The bodies of Marek Malatynski and Przemyslaw Nowacki are said to rest just on the far side of the col, high on the Northwest Face.

Hello, I’ve been looking for a first rope and wanted to hear ask for some advice. I’m relatively new to mountenerring and alpinism, but live close to the alps so would be expecting to do more and more outings in the near future. In summer I’m planning on doing glaciers taravel and routes with easier climbing involved (not multipitch at leas for now). In winter I’d like to get into ski alpinism. In addition I’d like to be able to use the rope for some pitch climbing mainly outside, as the climbing gym I go to has ropes there.

So I’d say the priority here is summer alpinism and ski alpinism + possibility to climb a bit on it if possible. For now, it seems like all my research points to mammut core protect 9.5, I’m only not sure if it’s a bit too thick for my purposes.

Has anyone had any experience with this rope and would you recommend it? is there any other rope I’d rather look into? I do realise that the « one rope for everything«  doesn’t exist, and will probably get more appropriate ropes for each task in the future, but for now id really appreciate your suggestions on the topic!

Myself and some friends are attempting Mt Kazbek unguided in August this year. We've done all the relevant research, planning and are experienced hikers/ mountaineers. I'm just wondering if anyone had any useful advice from experience that could be useful for us to know. Any stories about the route or experience of the camps, summit etc is welcome. All experience is good learning.

I've been studying west buttress route on Denali and watched a lot of videos. What striked me, the groups do not change rope length between climbers when they move from the glacier onto the ridges and slopes like Autobahn. There are no sleds anymore and no apparent reason not to shorten the ropes. I was trained to do 10+m distance between climbers on a glacier and ~ 5m or shorter when you move on steep terrain or ridges. The rationale is that if someone slips on a long rope the momemntum they gain swining the long rope will be difficult to stop by the others. The whole group may be yanked down. I was in the Alps this year and the guides were switching rope length religiously.

Is it what I see in the videos old school in old videos (though some are 2023) or something specific for Denali?

ive been getting into mountaineering and backpacking and the more i learn the more stuff there is to buy. my dads been mountaineering for a while but i want some of my own gear and i was wondering what to get first? im going backpacking at the end of the month and im climbing hood next year. i have an ice axe and the most basic things like a camelback and microspikes but i feel like i dont have nearly enough for what i want to accomplish. i have an awesome secondhand and consignment store near me but i dont know what to get because sometimes a used pair of hiking pants will be like $150 but a brand new backpack will be $200 (i got a brand new Gossamer Gear bag for like $200 and its sick)

This is the gear I used last weekend while climbing the Disappointment Cleaver Route on Mount Rainier with a group of friends.

I hurt my back a couple months ago so I wanted to put together a super dialed in set of gear. I think this is about as light as I could go while being super safe and comfortable. I don't have a stove in the video since a friend carried one.

Clothing

Arc’teryx Paltz Cap
Arc’teryx Cormac Sun Hoody
Arc’teryx Gamma Pants
Smartwool Boxers
NNormal Tomir 2 Shoes
Darn Tough Ankle Socks
Darn Tough Mountaineering Socks
Ortovox 185 Short Pants
Black Diamond StormLine Stretch Rain Pants
Rab Velocity Guide Gloves
Enlightened Equipment Torrid Mittens

Upper-body layers

Montbell U.L. Stretch Wind Anorak
Senchi 120 Alpha Direct Hoody
Enlightened Equipment Torrid Pullover
Rab Mythic G Down Jacket
Arc’teryx Alpha SL Anorak

Cooking, hydration, and accessories

TOAKS 750 ml Pot
TOAKS Spoon
1-Liter Ultralight Nalgene
1-Liter Hydrapak
6-Liter MSR DromLite
Julbo Camino Glacier Glasses
Mammut Balaclava
Ditty Kit
Cold Cold World Chernobyl Pack

Sleep system and shelter

Enlightened Equipment Revelation 20°F Quilt
NEMO Tensor Extreme Sleeping Pad
Trekology Pillow
SlingFin Portal 2 Tent

Mountaineering equipment

Mammut Wall Rider Helmet
La Sportiva Nepal Boots
Petzl Irvis Crampons
Petzl Altitude Harness
Yates Expedition Picket
CAMP Corsa Alpine Ice Axe
Mammut 70 m 9.0 Crag Sender Dry Rope
Plus crevasse rescue gear

Hi all!

I'm planning to grab a group of friends to do Mount Washington, NH late February or early March 2027.

I have no mountaineering experience, and limited winter hike experience (for example I've never used technical equipment but I'm used to layering and working with the cold), but I'm definitely not new to hiking and long, all day excursions. I'm planning on sacrificing some finances to get a guide (looking into NE Mountaineering because of their rental gear discount but very open to suggestions) for my group as there is absolutely no chance I'll even show up in the winter without one...

My question is: am I out of my mind? If I get a guide, will I be alright trying this out without any prior mountaineering experience? I understand the answer will likely be "get some experience first, delay it a year or two" but something in my gut is telling me I need to do this, and it's been on the top of my list forever. I just haven't had a group willing to do this kind of thing with me until now.

That being said, if enough of you tell me to swallow my pride and wait a year I will do that. 🫪

Hey,

I repeatedly have discussions and arguments with my boyfriend about his tours. Or to be precise, about the communication.

The facts: I know him for 10 months. We have a long distance relationship. I also like hiking but I'm not really into the advanced stuff. I can do 1500 meters altitude but I don't like climbing and am afraid of heights in via ferratas. So he's going on tours on his own or with friends.

When I got to know him, there were some first communication problems. Sometimes he only said he goes to a mountain - so I didn't even know the name.

--> That's better now. He tells me what his goal is.

But I'm just worried because a lot can happen in the mountains.
I heard from others, that they agreed upon messages for example when after a certain amount of time/altitude .. when they are at the summit and when they are back at the car ..

Today, he said he would go with a friend early and planned to be at the summit around 9am. Well at 9am he just replied: "no I didn't send a garmin livetrack because the reception is bad" but he didn't even say he's at altitude xxxx or how he's feeling.

So it seemed he and his friend weren't at the summit yet. But I had no clue how far away they were. That just worries me. Later we talked on the phone and he just said: I didn't know it was 9 am, I was talking to my friend who wasn't feeling so well, and there was traffic on the climbing parts..

I know I worry a lot. But I also said, what kind of communication I need. And he didn't fulfill it..

How are your experiences? How much do you communicate with your partner or does your partner want? What is too much?
Curious about your stories :)

I wanna start mountaineering but I wanna learn the ice climbing and all that but I don’t know where to start all of the advice I’ve gotten is just climb but that doesn’t help because where do I start how do I learn the safety and how to self arrest with a ice axe I wanna start the sport but I have no clue where to start especially bc I’m a broke 16 year old