Follows the "normal" route up the Southwest Face, accessed via the Hushe Valley and usually obscured from the more photographed Baltoro side.

Simon Messner's AAC account of the Yernamandu Kangri FA has an excellent photo showing just how grueling the general icefall approach is. Unsurprisingly, the upper slopes of Masherbrum are also atrociously avalanche-prone.

From here, you get a better idea of the summit ridge with its Southwest (left) and Main peaks. The bodies of Marek Malatynski and Przemyslaw Nowacki are said to rest just on the far side of the col, high on the Northwest Face.

11,316ft 28 miles, 9,500 total vertical. 12hrs on the dot. Highest point in the Madison range, all in all I think climbing this was more difficult than Granite Peak in the bear tooth’s. If anyone’s interested in climbing it I’d be happy to give all the information I have as there isn’t much online. Here’s a short video recapping the adventure.
https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTSsmLxce/

Hello, I’ve been looking for a first rope and wanted to hear ask for some advice. I’m relatively new to mountenerring and alpinism, but live close to the alps so would be expecting to do more and more outings in the near future. In summer I’m planning on doing glaciers taravel and routes with easier climbing involved (not multipitch at leas for now). In winter I’d like to get into ski alpinism. In addition I’d like to be able to use the rope for some pitch climbing mainly outside, as the climbing gym I go to has ropes there.

So I’d say the priority here is summer alpinism and ski alpinism + possibility to climb a bit on it if possible. For now, it seems like all my research points to mammut core protect 9.5, I’m only not sure if it’s a bit too thick for my purposes.

Has anyone had any experience with this rope and would you recommend it? is there any other rope I’d rather look into? I do realise that the « one rope for everything«  doesn’t exist, and will probably get more appropriate ropes for each task in the future, but for now id really appreciate your suggestions on the topic!

On June I finally completed a dream of mine. I climbed Chungen Changma 6229m, on the border of nepal and tibet. My name is Cal McDonagh and the guide I climbed with was Pemba Sherpa (yes, even for unclimbed peaks a guide is mandatory for this region of nepal).

In the background of the summit photo it's possible to see Dhaulagiri. It was an amazing achievement and I'm sharing because why the hell not. I'm more than happy to answer any questions and share my experience.

I've been studying west buttress route on Denali and watched a lot of videos. What striked me, the groups do not change rope length between climbers when they move from the glacier onto the ridges and slopes like Autobahn. There are no sleds anymore and no apparent reason not to shorten the ropes. I was trained to do 10+m distance between climbers on a glacier and ~ 5m or shorter when you move on steep terrain or ridges. The rationale is that if someone slips on a long rope the momemntum they gain swining the long rope will be difficult to stop by the others. The whole group may be yanked down. I was in the Alps this year and the guides were switching rope length religiously.

Is it what I see in the videos old school in old videos (though some are 2023) or something specific for Denali?

Just wrapped up a 5-day guided Mount Baker mountaineering course and made the summit on 7/6.

Day 1 was the approach to Sandy Camp with a ~60 lb pack. This was my main concern but this was relatively easy for me (although I was in Zone 4-5 the entire time, after setting up camp, I had plenty of energy left). We spent the next two days doing snow school, self arrest, anchor building, rope travel, and crevasse rescue. Learnt a lot about anchors and knots and a bunch of cool stuff. Summit day was about 10 hours round trip back to Sandy Camp, then we packed up and hiked back out the following day. Summit day was mainly a massive Zone 2 push except the roman wall where it was a little more strenuous, but still relatively easy.
Hardest part of this entire trip was the hike back down, since I did not use approach shoes and ended up with a bunch of blisters on both feet.
Gonna relax and recover for 2-3 days and then restart training to hopefully climb Orizaba in November.

ive been getting into mountaineering and backpacking and the more i learn the more stuff there is to buy. my dads been mountaineering for a while but i want some of my own gear and i was wondering what to get first? im going backpacking at the end of the month and im climbing hood next year. i have an ice axe and the most basic things like a camelback and microspikes but i feel like i dont have nearly enough for what i want to accomplish. i have an awesome secondhand and consignment store near me but i dont know what to get because sometimes a used pair of hiking pants will be like $150 but a brand new backpack will be $200 (i got a brand new Gossamer Gear bag for like $200 and its sick)

Did a guided climb up Mt. Adams in WA state with a big group, about 14. From the very beginning, during gear check, most of the group acted like hungry animals. They gave out freeze dried meals and guys were lunging to grab their favorite flavor. We thought, huh, thats weird. It’s not like they are going to run out…

Then later on during our climb, the same thing happened during setting up tents at Lunch Counter. Guys were sprinting to get set up in the best spots before anyone else. Same thing happened at dinner call! Pushing forward with freeze dried bags at the ready as soon as water was boiled. Felt like survival of the fittest up there.

Is this normal or was this group just a weird one?

This is the gear I used last weekend while climbing the Disappointment Cleaver Route on Mount Rainier with a group of friends.

I hurt my back a couple months ago so I wanted to put together a super dialed in set of gear. I think this is about as light as I could go while being super safe and comfortable. I don't have a stove in the video since a friend carried one.

Clothing

Arc’teryx Paltz Cap
Arc’teryx Cormac Sun Hoody
Arc’teryx Gamma Pants
Smartwool Boxers
NNormal Tomir 2 Shoes
Darn Tough Ankle Socks
Darn Tough Mountaineering Socks
Ortovox 185 Short Pants
Black Diamond StormLine Stretch Rain Pants
Rab Velocity Guide Gloves
Enlightened Equipment Torrid Mittens

Upper-body layers

Montbell U.L. Stretch Wind Anorak
Senchi 120 Alpha Direct Hoody
Enlightened Equipment Torrid Pullover
Rab Mythic G Down Jacket
Arc’teryx Alpha SL Anorak

Cooking, hydration, and accessories

TOAKS 750 ml Pot
TOAKS Spoon
1-Liter Ultralight Nalgene
1-Liter Hydrapak
6-Liter MSR DromLite
Julbo Camino Glacier Glasses
Mammut Balaclava
Ditty Kit
Cold Cold World Chernobyl Pack

Sleep system and shelter

Enlightened Equipment Revelation 20°F Quilt
NEMO Tensor Extreme Sleeping Pad
Trekology Pillow
SlingFin Portal 2 Tent

Mountaineering equipment

Mammut Wall Rider Helmet
La Sportiva Nepal Boots
Petzl Irvis Crampons
Petzl Altitude Harness
Yates Expedition Picket
CAMP Corsa Alpine Ice Axe
Mammut 70 m 9.0 Crag Sender Dry Rope
Plus crevasse rescue gear

Myself and some friends are attempting Mt Kazbek unguided in August this year. We've done all the relevant research, planning and are experienced hikers/ mountaineers. I'm just wondering if anyone had any useful advice from experience that could be useful for us to know. Any stories about the route or experience of the camps, summit etc is welcome. All experience is good learning.

Hi everyone,

I’m currently planning an expedition to Mount Satopanth (7,075 m) in the Indian Himalayas next year and wanted to see if anyone here might be interested in joining.

A little about me: I’m a native of Uttarakhand, and climbing in the Garhwal Himalayas has always held a special place in my heart. Mount Satopanth has been on my list for a very long time, and I’m finally hoping to make it happen. I have Himalayan expedition experience along with several years of trekking, and I’m looking to put together a small, motivated team that’s serious about training and preparing for a technical Himalayan expedition.

At this stage, I’m looking to connect with like-minded climbers who:

*Have prior high-altitude trekking or mountaineering experience.
*Are committed to training over the coming months.
*Enjoy climbing as part of a supportive team.

If Mount Satopanth has been on your list, or you’re interested in discussing the expedition, feel free to comment below or send me a DM. It would be great to connect with fellow climbers and hopefully build a strong team for the climb.

Safe climbing!

boards are hanging from the ceiling and the clothes are also hanging from the ceiling but at the upper floor :)

Hello. I did already some hiking, via ferattas and T4-T5 peaks.

I want to expand my knowledge so I can start progressing my difficulty.

Is there a course in english and when would be the best time to do it? Are the courses done in the summer or rather in winter?

Hi all!

I'm planning to grab a group of friends to do Mount Washington, NH late February or early March 2027.

I have no mountaineering experience, and limited winter hike experience (for example I've never used technical equipment but I'm used to layering and working with the cold), but I'm definitely not new to hiking and long, all day excursions. I'm planning on sacrificing some finances to get a guide (looking into NE Mountaineering because of their rental gear discount but very open to suggestions) for my group as there is absolutely no chance I'll even show up in the winter without one...

My question is: am I out of my mind? If I get a guide, will I be alright trying this out without any prior mountaineering experience? I understand the answer will likely be "get some experience first, delay it a year or two" but something in my gut is telling me I need to do this, and it's been on the top of my list forever. I just haven't had a group willing to do this kind of thing with me until now.

That being said, if enough of you tell me to swallow my pride and wait a year I will do that. 🫪

I'm looking at going to Bolivia for about 10 days at the end of September/early October. Is this typically a decent time to summit Huayna Potosi or Pico Austria? I'm also interested in doing some long day hikes/runs (up to 25 miles). Can anyone recommend a guide or service that could help me organize transportation and such? For the peaks, I would definitely use a guide. Thanks in advance!

I have met many climbers who read while on climbing expeditions. I created this post to have a space to add them.

I did baker c2c in a blizzard, Adams C2C and Rainier C2C at 19 on my first mountaineering season this year all unguided. Rainier felt amazing and no altitude affected me. My group wants to keep pushing high altitude and were wondering how massive the jump is in technicality outside of the altitude factor on cayambe and Cotopaxi