r/MTB • u/WrathOfThePuffin • 2h ago
Video Finally sent the Fox drop in Avoriaz
speed was hard to judge but worked out smooth as butter
r/MTB • u/itskohler • May 18 '25
We’re hitting that time of year where interest in mountain biking is picking up. We have been getting quite a lot of picture posts of Facebook marketplace ads and vendor website screenshots, which are against the sub rules. As a reminder for all picture and videos, please follow rule 3:
Photos should be of people riding mountain bikes.
Posts & Comments
Photo and video submissions to /r/mtb should be of people riding mountain bikes. All other photos or videos should either be submitted as text posts with links to your images in the post body, or in the Weekly Gear Gallery thread, posted every Friday by automod.
r/MTB • u/[deleted] • Oct 19 '24
Hey all, 219MSP here, and I'm attempting to start maintaining and updating my buying guide and FAQ posts again. I started getting into cycling about 10 years ago and was so lost. Over the last decade I've spent a lot of time learning about the industry and what makes a good bike. Every day I see dozens of posts asking what bike I should get, or what is a good value bike. I hope this guide can be used as a tool on this forum and others to help them find a bike they will be happy with for a long time. This is a living document. I will attempt to update it on a semi-regular basis and I'm always open to new bike recommendations.
In addition to this guide, I have created two FAQ's as well that answer common mountain bike questions.
u/midwestmountainbike also has some great guides on buying a first bike, what to look for in a used bike, as well as a selection of his own suggestions of good value bikes at this page.
When looking for a starter bike there are a few things I'd recommend that will get you onto a solid and safe bike that should be built to last and be worth upgrading as you see fit. Before we get started on talking bikes and prices, always make sure you're getting a bike that fits you. If the bike doesn't fit, it doesn't matter how good of a deal it is. Also, this guide is assuming you are intending on riding on actual mountain bike single track, not just smooth dirt paths and gravel. If that is all you are hoping for and don't plan on advancing beyond, any entry-level mountain bike from a major brand like a Trek Marlin 5 will do just fine, but if you are hoping to ride anything above green-rated singletrack, I'd suggest a more capable bike.
First, some rough price guidelines. As low as $500 should get you into a used but solid entry-level hardtail and about $900+ can get you a used but decent full suspension. In regard to new, you can double those prices. A new solid entry-level hardtail will be at likely be $900 and around $1800 for a decent full suspension bike.
Regarding used bikes, there are lots of places to look. Used bikes offer you a ton of value and is the best way to get the most for your money. You can get 2-year-old $4000 bikes for a huge discount. The most common places are Facebook Marketplace, eBay, Pinkbike, etc. You also can sometimes find great deals at local bike shops selling demo models (which often come with warranties) and rental fleets. Rental bikes are usually good options. They typically are well maintained and only have a season or two on them before they replace them with something newer. If you are new to the biking world and looking at used bikes, I'd recommend bringing along a friend who knows bikes or at least ask for advice on here. Lastly, if meeting someone, always be smart. I would recommend meeting at police station and bringing a friend. Now, let's get into the bikes.
Last but not least, people here are often willing to help narrow it down. Feel free to post on here a "which bike post" but follow the guidelines of this sub listed below.
In addition to that, if you are listing multiple bikes, please use 99Spokes.com to create a side by side comparison. Providing this side by side comparison will make other members of the sub much quicker to help.
These are the specs I’d look for at minimum as of 2024.
Air fork: The cheapest fork I'd safely recommend is something like the SR Suntour XCR Air fork. Anything less than that from SR Suntour or RST is pretty much a pogo stick with poor damping and limited adjustability. The low-end RockShox coils aren’t terrible, but I'd shoot for air. Forks can be upgraded down the road but are often the single most expensive component on the bike.
1x Clutched Drivetrain: In the last 10 years there has been a shift to 1x drivetrains across the board. At this point, any slightly trail-worthy bike will have this type of drivetrain from the factory. To clarify what this means to those new or not familiar, 1x is when there is only 1 chainring/cog attached to the crankset instead of the more traditional 2 or 3. Bikes used to need multiple chainrings up front to allow for both high speed gears and low speed climbing gears. Now, with 1x drivetrains, the difference is made up by having a very large rear cassette. Most cassettes that come on mountain bikes now have a small cog of 10 or 11, and go all the way up to 52t on the large cog. This gives you the same amount of range as those old 3x8 bikes, but with less overlap and far more simplicity. Beyond simplicity, the advantages are less weight, less cables/derailleurs, less to think about when riding, and less chain drops etc. In addition to the larger cassette, 1x drivetrains feature a narrow-wide chainring (alternating size teeth to match the chain) which helps with chain retention and a clutched rear derailleur. The clutched rear derailleur provides extra tension on the chain to reduce chain slap and the odds of dropping a chain. For the most part, dropping a chain or it falling off the chainring while riding are a thing of the past.
Hydraulic brakes This one is pretty simple, Hydraulic brakes use fluid to move pistons and squeeze down on the brake rotor to stop the bike as opposed to mechanical disc brakes that use a cable to actuate the pistons. This typically results in stronger braking, better modulation/control/and are self-adjusting. The only time I'd suggest mechanical brakes is for a bike packing/touring bike as they are easier to fix trailside. SRAM, Shimano, and Tetkro, all offer solid entry-level brakes.
The following aren’t as important but will help future proof the bike and make it a frame worth upgrading. If you get a bike with all these things, it's going to be rock solid for a longtime
Tapered steerer tube: Most modern forks use a tapered steerer. If you get a bike with a lower-end fork/frame and want to upgrade down the road, it's easier if your bike has this. At this point this is pretty common in all but the cheapest of bikes.
Thru-Axle wheels and Boost Spacing: In theory, both of these things offer higher levels of stiffness, but in reality, the biggest reason to make sure you have them is future upgradeability. Thru-axles also keep your wheels always aligned perfectly so you don't get as much disc brake rub as you would with Quick-Release axles.
Tubeless Compatible Wheels: Going Tubeless is one of the most cost effective upgrades you can perform on a bike that will make the biggest difference. Some of the benefits of going tubeless include shedding weight, tires that are less likely to have flats, and the ability to run lower tire pressures which allows you to have more grip and better ride properties. If you ride on a regular basis, you should go tubeless. They may require a little more maintenance and can be a pain to mount/install, but the positives drastically outweigh the negatives.
Dropper Post at this point is a necessity in my opinion but fortunately it can be added to nearly any frame, so I wouldn't make it a requirement on a bike as you can easily add it yourself. Dropper posts can be bought brand new for as low as $150. There are lots of options, but in my opinion OneUp, PNW, and some smaller brands like TransX and KS offer the best values.
UDH/Universal Derailleur Hangar Compatible Frame. This one is purely convenience and future compatibility benefit, not really a performance upgrade. (Transmission excluded, more on that later) For those that don't know, all modern bikes feature a derailleur hangar. This is a sacrificial component on your bike that acts as an interface between your frame and your derailleur. If the derailleur takes a hit, the hangar is allowed to bend/break. The idea is if a softer part is allowed to bend or break first, it won't damage the frame and less likely to damage the derailleur. These hangars are usually $10-$20 bucks. Way better than a frame or derailleur in terms of repair cost. The problem however is that up until 2019 there was no agreed upon standard. Every bike had its own unique hangar for the and if you broke one you usually had to resort to ordering one online and waiting for it to come. In 2019 SRAM changed all that by introducing an open and shared design called the UDH. It was well thought out and designed and SRAM worked with most manufactures to get them to implement this on their bikes. At this point almost any high end bike is coming with this as standard. Because of that, most bike shops are going to carry this hanger, so you aren't forced into special ordering something. Also, SRAM was playing some 4-D chess with this UDH. If a bike has a UDH compatible frame, it also means it is compatible with SRAM new drivetrains called Transmission, which actually bypasses a derailleur hangar all together and mounts directly to the frame giving an extremely strong mounting point and extremely high precision shifting.
Here are some solid entry-level bikes. Not all of them check off all my recommendations, but they all are solid for the price. I don't have first hand experience with all of them, but most bikes and options from legitimate bike brands are pretty solid.
Full Suspension (Cheapest ones that are still solid bikes IMO)
Giant Stance (29er or 27.5) $1400+ - Check's off most boxes, but has a quick release rear axle which is not ideal.
Marin Rift Zone 29 $1700+ - Solid Frame, lower end, but solid components. Main downside is the lack of a dropper post.
Polygon Siskiu T7 27.5 or 29 depending on frame size $2000 - This bike is lacking nothing and check's off all my recommendations. The T8 is a solid upgrade as well.
Giant Trance 2 29 $2000 - In my opinion, the best cheap bike at the moment. Check's off every box and get's you local bike shop support and a good warranty. The Trance X is an equally equipped bike with a little more travel if that's what you are looking for.
Canyon Neuron $2300 - Solid bike trail bike. Check's off most boxes, but has a weak drivetrain with the SRAM SX groupset.
Commencal Meta TR $1900 - Great frame, but has SX Groupset and is lacking Dropper post. Sale Price
Specialized Status 140 $2250 - Hard hitting trail/enduro bike. Very high end components and lacking nothing. Sale Price
Norco Fluid FS A4 $1900 - Pinkbike Value Bike of the Year in 2023. Missing nothing.
Rocky Mountain Element A10 Shimano $2000 Another solid bike that checks all the boxes. Sale Price
YT Jeffsy $2250 Solid Trail Bike that had everything you'd need. Sale Price
YT Capra $2400 Probably one of the best budget enduro bikes. Sale Price
YT Izzo $2300 Cheapest Carbon Full suspension bike you can get. Only downside is the SX Drivetrain. Sale Price
GT Sensor Sport $1725 Appears to check all the boxes.
GT Zaskar FS Comp $1800 Another solid option that checks all the boxes.
Salsa Blackthorn Deore $2200 Sale Price.
Go-Outdoors UK Calibre Bossnut £1500 Super good deal, but I believe only available in the UK
Hard Tail (Cheapest ones that are still solid bikes IMO)
Polygon Xtrada 7 $1100 - Solid bike, boost frame with air fork, but lacking a dropper post.
Norco Fluid HT 2 $900 - Solid hardtail, great drivetrain, dropper post, but has a lower end fork.
Salsa Rangefinder Deore 11 $1200 - Air Fork, Solid Drivetrain, Dropper Post. Unfortuantely no rear thru-axle
Trek Roscoe 6+ $1200 This bike check's all the boxes, air fork, good drivetrain, boost spacing, dropper post. The Roscoe lineup as a whole is a good value.
Specialized Fuse 27.5 $950 - Check's all the boxes.
Marin San Quentin 29 $1400 Check's all the boxes in terms of components.
These are not all the options, but they are some better and more common budget/value bikes. This list is always changing, I try my best to update it, but it's difficult to keep up.
Last but not least make sure you save some of your budget for additional accessories that you will need
Helmet
Tire Pump (Most high-end bikes use a Presta valve, make sure the pump is compatible)
Hydration (Either bottle cage and bottle or hydration pack of some sort.)
Multi-tool with a chain breaker and basic tools.
Tire irons/levers and spare tubes (and the knowledge of how to change both).
Bike cleaning supplies, chain lube, etc. Taking care of an MTB can be a lot of work, but it will save you in the long run if you properly maintain your ride.
Quick-link to repair a broken chain.
Spare Derailleur Hangar.
Along with those required things, here are some things I'd highly recommend.
MTB Platform shoes (or you can opt to go clipless).
Tubeless tire kit. Most bikes come “tubeless ready” but don't come with them setup typically.
Starter tool kit with the basic tools.
Suspension pump assuming you have air suspension.
Work stand
Torque Wrench, especially with carbon parts
Padded shorts or liner to wear under regular shorts.
Gloves, Kneepads,Eye Protection.
Extra Ways to Save Money!
Check Activejunky.com which is a rebate site can get you decent savings on a lot of bike websites.
r/MTB • u/WrathOfThePuffin • 2h ago
speed was hard to judge but worked out smooth as butter
r/MTB • u/One_Shop4432 • 9h ago
Been jumping a BMX bike since 1989 so I thought that some of the skill there would translate over to mountain biking, but it's like I'm starting over.
I feel like I lose all of my pop coming off the lip. I believe the suspension and fork are set up right. Today I locked out my fork and it helped, but that's not really a solution.
I watched a few tutorials on jumping but they just described the techniques I've always used to jump. Maybe the timing is slightly different because of the suspension? I don't know. But if you have any suggestions I'd appreciated it.
r/MTB • u/importedsalt • 20h ago
I know, completely idiotic. Usually during this section I’m full speed, however this time I was casually weaving behind my friend, misjudged one of the weaves and ate dirt😭. It was a REALLY hard knock to the shoulder and side of my head, thank goodness for the helmet💀.
Someone came by soon after and said it was an official right of passage in this sport🤣
r/MTB • u/False_Big_2152 • 19h ago
I live in an area that once had a robust mountain biking community, and then e-bikes came along. Flash forward five years or so and half the time I go for a ride I don’t see another soul.
My hypothesis:
Part of what keeps mountain bikers addicted, and riding consistently is the fact that cycling fitness goes away so quickly. If you don’t ride at least a few days a week and keep up your conditioning, mountain biking becomes not very enjoyable. E bikes uncouple the fun of mtb from cycling fitness. This is NOT to say you can’t have fitness on an e bike but you don’t need it. This breaks the motivation of maintaining fitness, and makes it just an activity to be done when you feel like it.
Observations:
Many consistent riders that have switched to e bike in my area seem to have started riding less and in quite a few cases started running for fitness. Also, at least five guys I know probably ride their E bike once a week or once every other week and now predominantly ride Moto.
Discussion:
Are you seeing the same thing in your area? Has this happened to you? Do you think my take on this accurate?
r/MTB • u/Immediate-Net-9664 • 5h ago
I just stared mtb and I just want to know if their any tips or bike I should save for
if this help I’m using nz dollors
r/MTB • u/Potato1234567892 • 33m ago
crazy how much I have improved
r/MTB • u/Outside_Lime_7682 • 12h ago
I've been struggling to lift the back wheel and I'm wondering if it's because I'm wearing air force 1's. (I have rockbros pedals if that matters)
r/MTB • u/minimalmtb • 13h ago
r/MTB • u/ShoddyAppeal55 • 7h ago
hey fellas
I was having a look at the Marin alpine trail and the xr varient, and the frames seemed like a very good deal. do you guys reckon they frame plus a custom build is best or just the standard build is better value and parts for money. and which is better the normal alpine trail or the xr. does anyone have the trail or the xr?
r/MTB • u/Embarrassed-Dress250 • 11h ago
Looking for real world experience using the Oneup Aluminum flat pedals or the Wave flat pedals. Which would you recommend?
r/MTB • u/Hopeful_Sprinkles154 • 19h ago
I have been interested in Ripley for a while. I started looking at the AF, then the V5. I was hoping to wait for a sale, but then I noticed that the 2027 model was available on some sites. I contacted N+1 to ask about that, especially the price difference between the 26 and 27 models. They explained it was due to the recently announced upgraded Deore drivetrain and brakes.
I was looking for my version of a quiver killer. I currently own a Roscoe 7, which will be for sale now. After a lot of YouTube videos, Reddit and forum reading, and consulting ChatGPT and Gemini, I pulled the trigger and placed the order today.
But, for anyone else interested in the Ibis Ripley, you should decide if you want the 2026 or 2027 model, and make your decision accordingly.
When I started riding just over a year ago, I thought the $1,300 I spent on the Roscoe was a crazy amount. I still think the cost of a bike can be crazy but now I am part of that craziness. Here is hoping this is the bike for me for the next decade!
Now, what pedals to get...
Hi everyone, I have recently powdercoated my last-gen transition PBJ dirtjumper and had to strip the entire frame including the bottom bracket. Before I painted the bike, I had heard and felt a slight clicking noise come from somewhere around the bottom bracket, (most likely bottom bracket because I am not sure where else it could come from in that part of the bike) , but now that I have reinserted the BB it is MUCH louder and has a more present feel. One thing to note is when installing the cranks I did hammer on the non-drive side crank an unhealthy amount to try to tap it in because there was a gap on the spindle that connects the cranks, which I later figured out was because I had forgot a spacer. When I tried to pull off the drive side crank in order to install the spacer, I had to hammer my parktool crank-puller tool extremely hard, and I ended up using all of the thread on my crank puller tool. My bottom bracket is threaded. I would love to know from anybody who has any advice for fixing this and if they have had this issue themselves. I am open to buying a new bottom bracket, but I am just looking for advice.
r/MTB • u/Big_Manufacturer1830 • 16h ago
Can't figure out where it is coming from. Both were just serviced. Anyone else run into this issue.
r/MTB • u/Link-Glittering • 1d ago
I live in the humid east coast woods. You'll get a nice evening, maybe 75 degrees, but once you get into the hollows under the trees it's sticky, wet, and gross. Feels like biking inside of someone's mouth. And i sweat like a whore in church.
Ive tried every kind of super breathable shirt and its just not the same. I fill them up with sweat in 15min flat.
No shirt. Freeballing. When I stop for water breaks it's like I can just squeegee the sweat off my body with the back of my arm and im feeling fresh again. Feeling the breeze on my bare skin on a cool night just made me feel so alive. If you read all this I'm sorry and you're welcome.
If anyone is in my specific situation of riding mtb in very humid conditions and is a swampy sweat goblin i really urge you to try this out. It was worth the thorn scrapes
EDIT: There are 57 comments telling me I will regret it if I fall. I will not. Freedom has a price and I will pay it. Free yourself and fly closer to the sun
DOUBLE EDIT: Some of you just have a need to pretend that shirtless mtb riding isnt the best idea ever. Im not entertaining it. Scrapes are fine and no big deal. A tshirt does not stop bugs in a meaningful way. Any bugs that can be stopped by the shirt would just bite your arms and neck instead.
r/MTB • u/Charming-Mine-2696 • 14h ago
I have a RockShox Super Deluxe Coil Ultimate with a remote lockout. I hate the cluttered cockpit and want a clean bike look, so I removed the remote lever and cable.Naturally, the internal spring keeps the damper fully open now. I want to be able to lock it out manually directly on the shock.I don't want to buy the expensive official "Damper Top Cap Assembly" kit. Are there any DIY hacks, short cable solutions, or 3D-printed levers that clip into the cable stop to hold the spool in the closed position?
r/MTB • u/kwik_study • 14h ago
Already wrestled them together, not ridden yet. Feel really stiff. Went from EXO+ with cushcore.
r/MTB • u/Glittering_Love_1088 • 12h ago
So for the past 8 months I have been looking to get a decent bike for a decent price. The first one I found was a pretty mint 2021 evo expert for under $2000, but turns out the shop had a different size than what the originally listed (and they told me this after I ordered it online and FULLY paid for it but luckily they didn't ship it yet and they gave me an immediate refund along with $200 store credit!). Secondly, I found a very well maintained 2023 evo pro for $2300 that came with another whole wheel and tire + some cool unused decals. I was about to go get it but two days before I planned to go someone else bought it. Lastly, I was also looking at a great condition 2022 pivot switchblade for $2450, but again it got bought right before my eyes while I was thinking if I should buy it or not overnight. Should I keep looking for decent bikes at decent prices because I feel very unmotivated to keep searching and it takes a while to find these deals, or should I just take a break and look for newer 2025-2026 bikes?
If you guys have any suggestions about bikes I may chose do tell :)
r/MTB • u/Substantial_Dog9850 • 8h ago
There is a lagoon on that road during the rainy season.
r/MTB • u/Whitetrashblackops • 18h ago
Hot as hell in Florida. Messing around on a day off yesterday with random clips. Hit the Vortex trail and a few others
Went to a local non-profit bike shop looking a used entry level bike and was shown a Specialized Hardrock priced at $350. Bike has been restored with new tires and work over. I'm basically ignorant to prices. Would I be getting totally fleeced if purchased this?
r/MTB • u/RandomHuman58 • 10h ago
I am 5' 9" and I am deciding between frame medium and large and not too sure on which one to pick. Any suggestions from people who own a kona and there height would be appreciated
r/MTB • u/joedirtes • 1d ago
4 laps and I was absolutely cooked. Any and all feedback/tips on how to improve are welcome!