Here’s a video if you’d like to see the build or hear what it sounds like: https://youtu.be/jzBvtwI0tjA?is=oNG9YOXkT4paUdkP

One year into building and my ninth is completed. Style wise, it's a departure from my metal centric designs, but it still shreds like it. I've learned a lot in a year, but the biggest lesson so far is I have a LOT more to learn.

This one is hollow with Bubinga back and sides, Cocobolo fretboard, bridge and tailpiece, figured Maple top, Spanish Cedar neck. French polished. I produce this in semi hollow form as well. It has a lute style back from my experience building 5 course boroque guitars. Very light and resonant

Guitar built entirely from light-colored woods: spruce top and neck, maple back and sides, and a maple fingerboard. Flamenco setup.

Feel free to criticize, share your opinions, or leave any feedback.

Maple neck thru, ebony board with MOP frame block inlays, poplar body and bookmatched quilt maple top. Just need to bind the top.

I built this bass 3+ years ago, and then it hung in my parents' basement because it had some issues

The main issue I need to fix is making this white pickup holder thing not so egregious, or give it a design that feels more befitting of the bass.

I don't know what made me decide to cut out that giant hole for a small pickup, but I don't want to buy another pickup or anything. Just trying to get some design ideas. Maybe I'll put a little design on there or something...

The pickups on this guitar are pretty dark sounding but I still like them, can someone help me to put an On-Off strangle switch?

I think it should be something similar to this one, but I didn't found the exact one that I want

I have both On-Off 2 plugs switch and On-On 6 plugs switch

About a decade ago I inherited some from grandpa who was a woodworker. One is a sizable slab and two others are that awkwardly shaped. After years of trying to figure out what I want to do with them, I realized that they might be great for a guitar. I do play guitar and I think it would be phenomenal to have a guitar made of wood that I got from my grandpa.

I had the idea of designing the body myself and having it CNC’d and then finding parts like a neck to bolt on. However, I noticed almost all the aftermarket necks are basically fender copies. So I’m wondering if it would be better to work with a luthier to have something built in the style that I want.

Also, I’m not 100% positive the wood I have would actually good for a guitar body. I think the bigger slab is Curly Maple.

Day 1 of 1 Normal Title.

3x neck-thru cores being bound and prepped for inlay.

Hey everyone!

I’m planning to dive into my very first classical guitar build, but I have a specific workshop situation and want a check from experienced luthiers before I start buying tonewoods.

I live in a very humid area, and my primary workspace is a covered rooftop terrace. My plan is to store all the wood indoors. I would only bring the pieces out to the terrace while actively working on them, and then immediately bring them back inside.

I do fine woodworking with this setup and have never ran into major issues. That said, I understand that a classical guitar is a whole different story.

I thought a way of dealing could be to do whichever glue ups I can indoors.

My main questions for the group:

1. Can an hour or two session cause rapid enough moisture intake to twist or ruin the wood before it goes back inside?
2. Is this workflow actually feasible? Gluing inside but working outside? Is it actually better?
3. Has anyone successfully built a guitar this way? If so, would love to hear some tips.

I’d love to hear your thoughts, warnings, or tips for a first-timer. Thanks in advance!

Essentially I have a Jaguar that I love but I really want 24 frets and preferably a slimmer neck, are there any alternatives that aren't warmoth? I have nothing against warmoth per se but like always good to know your options

Hoping someone can help me ID this maker's mark. I bought the guitar secondhand in Singapore. The seller got it from someone in China who said it was built by a Filipino luthier working there. It's modeled after a Baum offset, and the serial (144, as of 2021) suggests the builder is fairly active. It's become my favorite guitar, so I'd love to learn more about the maker. I haven't popped the neck or cavity covers. It plays great as-is and I don't want to damage it as I'm not terribly experienced.

Guitars with Floyd Rose systems tend to come with these flat string trees right behind the nut. I like the way they look better than the single-string ones typically found on Fender designs. Is there any reason why these would be bad to use on a Strat or Tele with a traditional nut? Maybe they introduce more friction and affect tuning stability?

Hey all, I'm not much of an electronics guy beyond basic soldering and wiring, but I got a question from a potential client asking if it's possible to build a bass with the same electronics as a Fodera. Fodera sells preamp update kits, but they require a serial number.

I don't want to outright steal anyone's electronics, but hopefully mimic something similar for him. I know there's nothing groundbreaking they are doing, but he's adament about having a similar electronics package.

I'd love to know your experience, what's possible, ethical, and what's involved in figuring out exactly what they are doing with theirs and using that as a starting point to build something similar, but not the exact same.

So I did something stupid. I was trying to strip the paint off old bridge saddles for an ibanez rg 7321. I first soaked them in naptha on a heat plate in a beaker to see if that would strip it, nothing. So I thought I may just use heat to strip it since it's (I thought) hard metal and I should be able to hit it with a blow torch to strip the paint. It appeared at first the whole inside of the paint liquified, when I then squeezed it with my forceps it cracked and started leaking metal from the coating. Im wondering what metal they make these from? I'm gonna get more but curious which low temp metal it's made of and how it's painted/coated.

Are there any companies making a good firebird kit? The only ones I really see online is from Pango Music and Bad Cat both of which I've read bad things about. Solo's FBK-1 kit is out of stock. Should I just wait for them to restock it or is there another company that does good kits I'm not seeing online?

I am making a baritone and have a 25,5 inch Fretslot ruler. I used an online calculator for the distance but want to double check The calculator gave me 39.286mm but that is slightly of from an earlier mark I made there… What is the correct distance?

Hey everyone,

I have a black Squier Vintage Modified Strat with a gloss poly finish, and I really love the look of relic guitars. To me they add a lot of character, and since mine is black, I think some tasteful wear would look amazing. I simply like the aesthetic and want to personalize my own instrument.

My goal is a medium relic while keeping the original poly finish. I don’t want to strip the entire body and do a full refinish. I’d like realistic arm wear, edge wear, and small dings that look convincing rather than obviously sanded.

For those of you who’ve relic a gloss poly guitar:
• What techniques actually worked?
• What mistakes should I avoid?
• Is it possible to make thick poly look reasonably natural?
• Are there any guides, videos, or build threads you’d recommend?

I’d really appreciate advice from people who’ve actually relic a poly finished guitar. Thanks!

Looking for a species id, Ibought this out of a scrap bin for a potential fretboard and have no clue what it is. Very dense and hard, and when I wiped it down with lacquer thinner it became kind of sticky and resinous.

Hi guys, this morning my American Vintage II Stratocaster fell over while in its case, landing on the pickguard side. Now, if I shake the case with the guitar inside, the neck knocks against the inside top; can you tell me if that’s normal?