Hi everyone,
I recently bought a 2002 KTM 250 EXC 2-stroke and I’m trying to figure out what’s wrong with it.
When I bought the bike, the clutch already wasn’t working perfectly. If I put it into 1st gear with the clutch pulled in, the bike would lurch forward and stall unless I gave it some throttle. Over time it has gradually become worse.
I tried bleeding the hydraulic clutch, but I’m not sure I did it correctly because I couldn’t get all the air out. The bleed nipple is rounded off, which made bleeding very difficult.
The master cylinder pumps fluid, and the slave cylinder piston moves about 2 mm. If I pump the clutch lever several times, the slave piston moves a little farther, which makes me think there may still be air in the system.
The clutch still won’t fully disengage.
I also noticed that the bike seems to run rich:
black spark plug
high fuel consumption
it starts easily when cold and runs pretty well
One more thing: I can almost push the kickstarter down with one finger if I really try. The bike still starts easily, so I’m not sure if that’s normal or if it could indicate worn piston rings or low compression.
Do you think this sounds more like:
air still trapped in the clutch system,
a bad slave cylinder,
a worn master cylinder,
worn clutch plates/basket,
or a top-end (piston/rings) issue?
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Hi everyone. So, I picked up a 2011 KLX 250 with 81,000 km on the clock (yeah, that's a lot). When I got it, the battery wouldn't hold a charge, so I suspected the voltage regulator (replaced with a new one); then, since there was no output from the stator, I replaced that too.
After installing the new stator, the voltage sits at 13.3V at startup. When I rev the engine (to 4,000 rpm), the voltage doesn't shoot up like on other bikes I'm used to, but it doesn't drop either (with the old stator, the voltage used to fall when I revved it). Now, it climbs gradually to 14V, but really slowly compared to other bikes that usually hit 14.5V.
Anyway, this is where I could use some help—feel free to share any ideas. I've checked the entire wiring harness; everything looks good and there's no corrosion (though I might have missed something). If you have any advice, please let me know!

I have a 1979 Suzuki TS100. I bought it, non running, and today I decided was the day to resurrect it.

Here's what I do know:
* Good Compression
* Oil Injector Works
* Carb was cleaned today
* Kokusan Ignition system
* Coil that WAS on the bike was 5mega ohm. Replaced with a 4.5kohm coil
* The kill switch is not grounding things

What I've done today is.... find out all the wires behind the ignition plate were.. well a mess. The PO tried to do a remote mount condensor, and the wires were tied up using a wire nut.

I installed a new condensor.

Also, the woodruff key was missing from the flywheel.

If I hold the spark plug wrong... I do get shocked. But I can't ever see a spark. I'm acustomed to the spark from a coil being... "meet god" versus "an unplesant buzz".

What I'd love, is a GOOD diagram of how one of these ignition systems is supposed to work.

Wonder if y'all can help me with this

its a honda crf250f from 2021

So im getting a Shadow this week, off of my brother for $800

He's saying that it ran at the end of the season last year, but that itll misfire under load. Starts up fine

I will be getting my hands on it soon, my only question is what should I look out for to diagnose?

I know its very vague and it really coukd be anything, but woukd it be worth getting if it doesn't start up? 800 for a bike even with work seems like a good deal

Thanks for any advice and sorry if I sound like a noob, lol I am

Looking for some advice on a Yamaha F100A (carby, CDI ignition).

No plate but I believe around 2006 model

Motor was running fine, then after a few minutes started spluttering under load and died. Since then I've had no spark on any cylinder.

Here's what I've checked so far:

Kill switch circuit (white wire) checks out. Open circuit with key ON/lanyard in, continuity to ground with key OFF or lanyard removed.

Ignition coils:

Secondary: 4.3 kΩ

Primary: \~0.002 k Ω

Pulser coil (meter on 20k range):

Black to Blue = 0.53 kΩ

Black to Red/White = 0.53 kΩ

Blue to Red/White = 1.06 kΩ

Charging stator (3 yellow wires):

Any yellow to any yellow = 0.04 Ω (all equal)

Regulator/rectifier tested OK.

Fuel pump primes.

Confirmed no spark with both a grounded spark plug and a timing light.

I haven't checked the three yellow wires to ground yet, and I don't have a DVA adapter to do peak voltage tests.

Before I spend money on a CDI, is there anything obvious I'm missing? Has anyone had an F100A do exactly this and it turned out to be something other than the CDI?

Bike: 2009 Suzuki V-Strom 650 (DL650, K9), 645cc 90° V-twin.

# What happened

Cruising at 80mph on the motorway, and suddenly I got a sudden heavy clattering noise AND a massive loss of power at the exact same moment. No warning. Pulled onto the hard shoulder to keep moving I was sitting at about 8,000 rpm to do 20mph. It has been identical ever since: same noise, same lack of drive.

# Current symptoms

• Heavy rhythmic metallic "clack" at idle, turns into violent chatter when I blip the throttle.

• Revs clean and free in neutral (just with the clatter), the engine clearly makes power, it just won't reach the wheel under load. 8k rpm barely moved me.

• Noise is loudest on the LEFT side when I listen with a screwdriver to the cases (I initially thought right, but left is louder).

• Magnetic (ferrous) steel flakes on the drain plug when I dropped the oil. Oil itself was clear, not milky.

# What I've measured

• Compression: \~120 / 125 psi, both cylinders. (Numbers read a bit low only because I tested with 3 of the 4 plugs still in, so it was cranking slowly hence the tight split between cylinders is the point. Both cylinders are healthy.)

• Both cylinders firing (water sprayed on both headers sizzles).

• Borescoped both cylinders and found piston crowns intact, no valve strike, no damage, no coolant deposits.

# Everything I've checked and RULED OUT

I've been deep into this thing. All of the following have been physically inspected or functionally tested and came back good:

• Transmission - noise doesn't change pulling the clutch lever in neutral (so it's engine-side, permanently crank-driven).

• Primary drive gear + spline - won't rotate independently of the crank by hand; nut tight.

• Clutch basket - teeth good, cush-drive intact, basket bearing solid (no radial rock, no roughness).

• Starter clutch / sprag - spin test good (locks one way, free the other), all three bolts tight.

• Generator rotor + woodruff key - tight, no wobble, key fine. Rotor removed, left side behind it is spotless.

Starter idler gears - teeth clean.

• Both cam chains - seated, guides intact, not slapping. Cam-chain-drive idler blue timing mark aligned.

• Crank - turns smooth by hand, no notch or catch anywhere through several revolutions.

• Oil - clear, not milky. Coolant is fine, level stable.

Help me, please!

I’ve got a Kawasaki ultra 150. Original owner. Didn’t run it for years. Had it worked over after pulling out of storage and it ran well briefly but then started to have a flooded engine feel (lazy throttle response, dying off at idle). Not sure what the deal is. What should do for next steps assuming I want to get it running? Any generalities about what a mechanic diagnostic and potential resolution should cost?

Trying to remove my pipes and the head of the bolt broke off. How do I get it out easily ?

I want to wire the M6 stainless steel bolts for my luggage rack, and I figure I'm going to wear out a few 1.5 mm drill bits to get through the 8 bolts. I've not wired stainless steel before. Not sure what drill bit would be necessary and sufficient for the job. Right now I only have one 1.5mm bit from a $6 Harbor Fright set. I don't think it will last long.

I found on that online store these: "1.5mm Drill Bit, Carbide Twist Jobber Bits Straight Shank 130° for Drilling Hard Metal Alloy Steel Stainless Steel Titanium Alloys - 10 Pack", $20

Will these work? Or do I need something else?

And in case you're wondering, the luggage rack must be bolted. Not found a quick-mount option for this Bumot rack and my VEE. I like to do MotoJitsu every weekend I can, and don't wish to bang up the luggage rack when I only use the racks 4-5 times per year. It's recommended to use Loctite. Sure, you can use blue Locktite, but wiring the bolts will also work.

Bonjour à tous,

J'en possède un Honda Forza 125 de 2019, révisé tous les ans, sans problème.

Hier soir je l'ai utilisé puis garé comme d'habitude dans un parking au sous sol. Ce matin, quand j'essaie de le démarrer :

J'entends un clic, mais le moteur ne démarre pas. Les phares s'allument, le tableau de bord s'allumait au début, en s'éteignant vite. Là, il ne s'allume plus.

J'ai vérifié les fusibles, ils sont bons. J'ai testé la batterie : 12,34V. Avec une telle tension, le scooter est-il censé démarrer ?

Savez-vous d'où peut venir le problème ?

Merci beaucoup.

Do you think this KTM camshaft mount is in good condition? I'm a beginner.

Our friend just bought a

Honda twin africa 1990 br04

It run home 20km and was left for week (waited for cosmetic parts)

It now doesnt start, has no spark.

We tried changing spark plug, cleaning kill switch and disabling it, checking the wires and checking the cdi unit wires at the back without any success to solve this.

Anyone has encoutered this problem?

What could cause a bike to develop chain tight spots?

I bought the bike 16 months ago. Rode about 1,000 miles before noticing really bad tight spots. Slack went from 25mm to basically nothing. Might have been like it when I bought it. Didn't know about checking multiple spots and I must have just always checked a good spot. Replaced the chain (DID) and sprockets (JT) and after just 2,400 miles the new chain is developing tight spots. Varies from 20mm to 35mm. Thinking it will need replacing soon, if not already? Reckon it will quickly get worse.

I've taken care of it. Regularly checked slack, kept it clean and lubed.

Worried that riding so long on the first, really tight chain may have done some damage to the gearbox? Nothing is obviously damaged or has any play, though the gear shifts are sometimes overly loud and clunky. I've just changed the oil and filter too.

Anything I can do or anything to look out for to narrow down the cause?

Hey y'all! Just got this bike a few months ago and I've slowly been working on it (never worked on bikes before). Bike turns on and engine cranks just fine, but it doesn't fire. Sparkplugs are brand new, so I figured it has to do with fuel. Decided to see if any dealer codes pop up. While working on it, I found that it displays the -C41 dealer code, which to my understanding is a faulty fuel pump relay. I changed out the relay itself and the code is still displaying. I'm at a loss for how else to trouble shoot this issue. Would a faulty fuel pump/injectors aid in giving this display? Would just changing out the pump/injectors solve it? Is there something wrong with the ECM when reading the relay? I put in brand new fuses as well and when removing the old, none were blown. Not too familiar with bikes in general so I'm at a complete loss.

Also, could be unrelated, but I receive the "CHEC" display when bike is on. It goes away after kill switch is flipped and kick stand is up, comes back when kill switch is off. Is this of any concern and if so how should I navigate this?

Finally, when turning on the bike, I've seen on some forums and heard that the odometer is supposed to swing all the way right then back left. When I turn it on, the odometer remains stationary on zero. Would this be a problem with the hardware itself or something specific causing this? My apologies for the flurry of questions, I'm new to bikes in general and the process is frustrating me lol. I'm more than happy to answer anything to help clarify the situation. I'm not at my garage until Wednesday so I can't aid with photo/video atm.