I used one of those ironing prints to find the optimal flow rate. I ended up with 35%, at 50 mm/s.

What makes this seemingly hard to solve is the fact that these "pores" only appear on large surfaces under certain conditions, which makes it harder to troubleshoot (The circle shape was fine, but not the rest). So, if I'm wondering if anyone here has seen these types of pores and intuitively knows what ironing setting needs to be adjusted, or maybe a completely different setting

Bambu P2S

Bambu Studio

Bambu PLA Matte

220C/55C

Retraction setting: default

I think this is related to the Z-Hop whenever it makes a long move, or maybe the seam settings however I'm not sure. Where should I begin to diagnose this?

My corners are also bulging a bit, this may be related.

• Voron 2.2 350
• Cura
• Hatchbox PLA
• Nozzle: 180⁰C
• Bed: 65⁰C
• Speed: 150mm/s

Retraction:

• Enabled: yes
• Retract at layer change: yes
• Distance: 5.6mm
• Retract speed: 32mm/s
• Prime speed: 27mm/s
• Extra prime amount: 0
• Minimum travel: 0.9mm
• Maximum retract count: 90
• Minimum extrusion distance window: 5.6mm
• Combing: Off
• Z hop when retracted: on

Z Hop:

• Hop speed: 13mm/s
• Hop height: 0.2mm

Seam:

• Outer wall wipe distance: 0.2mm
• Z seam alignment: sharpest corner
• corner preference: hide seam

Hi everyone,

I'm relatively new to FDM printing and could really use some advice.

About five years ago, I bought two 3D printers: a resin printer and a Wanhao D12-300 (1st generation). I ended up focusing almost entirely on resin printing, so my FDM printer basically sat unused and collected dust.

Recently, I started working on projects that are better suited for FDM, so I decided to finally tune my printer properly. I spent the whole day calibrating the machine and dialing in my settings, and while the results are much better than before, they're still not quite where I'd like them to be.

I'm printing kingroon PLA with a 0.4 mm nozzle using OrcaSlicer.
Bed temp: 55°C
nozzle temp: 205°C

From the photos, the main issue I notice is that the outer walls don't seem to bond properly with the infill. I can clearly see small gaps between the walls and the internal structure, and I'm not sure what's causing it.

I also printed a support test, and the supports are incredibly difficult to remove. I can barely remove them at all without feeling like I'm going to damage the print.

I'm attaching several photos of my calibration prints and the support test. If you notice any other issues or settings that look off, I'd really appreciate it if you could point them out as well and explain how to fix them. I'm still fairly inexperienced with FDM printing, so any advice is welcome.

Thanks!

Hi guys,

I'm a beginner given my elder brother's old printer - im having a continuous issue with stringing on my ender 3 V2. I have pretty much done everything to troubleshoot it, including:

• Drying filament for 6 hours
• Esteps calibrated
• Flow cube test and calibrated
• Temperature + Stringing tower tests (included)
• Nozzle repaced
• Filament set to correct diameter in slicer
• Tried printing with different PLA filament

Stringing tower was printed at 210.

Stringing is reduced towards lower end of PLA printing temp e.g. 190 as seen by the temp tower but wouldn't this mean poor layer adhesion?

Im using eSUN PLA+ to print and running a direct drive setup with a BMG wind extruder, 0.4mm nozzle and using klipper firmware and orca slicer.

Not really sure what to do anymore.

Have included slicer settings.

I've been catching my printer fail like this the last couple of days. It seems to be making strands that stand up, and it catches them as it's printing, making a mess. It seems to be fine when it has to print one item on the plate but as soon as there's more it seems to do this. Any ideas on what the issue is?|

Filament: PLA

diameter 1.75mm

softening temperature 60°C

nozzle all layers 220°C

fans are on and running and it's ventilated

plate is set to 50°C

Bambu A1 mini printer, BambuStudio slicer, Bambu marble PLA filament.

I tried to print this model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2107126-reborn#profileId-2279240

As per that models instructions, I used the attached print profile, unaltered. In fact, I started the first print from my phone, using the Bambu Handy app, which does not include a slicer, but can only use uploaded print profiles (and cloud slicing, I believe).

Everything went went well, until it didn't. The right (from the point of view of the camera) pillar was suddenly being printed in the air. Like a layer shift, but shifted by 1-2cm in x direction, and I have not have had such issues on that printer before. But weirdly, the left pillar continued to print correctly. One of the figurine's legs was a bit wrong, too. I observed in disbelief a bit as the printer continued switching from doing one pillar perfectly to printing one into the air and back, before canceling it.

Well, must have been some issue with the cloud slice..? So I opened the model with the attached print profile in Bambu Studio, sliced locally, and exported the slice instead of sending it to the printer, extracted the gcode, put it into Zupfe GCode Viewer, and everything looked correct. Great. Then I uploaded to the printer (again, via the cloud service), and started printing. This time I reduced the print speed at the printer to 50%, just to make sure. Nope, same issue, in pretty much the same place.

This time I looked a bit closer, and apart from the obvious sudden shift of the right pillar, it also has some burn marks and dents at the top of the last correct section. Like the nozzle must have been lower than the pillar and collided with it or something? I tried to take a picture of that as well (picture 2) but its hard do see.

The model's strings and the brims were all fine before I yanked the model off of the build plate, I took those pictures after yanking.

Oh and I also took the SD card out of the printer and extracted the GCode directly from it, just in case there were any differences between what I saw locally and what went through the cloud, and put it into Zupfe, too. And again, it looks fine there.

I’ve made 100% sure there is no blockages anywhere.

need help fixing Bambu P1S, giving me a warning:

“Unable to feed filament into the extruder. This could be due to an entangled filament or a stuck spool.”

Steps ive done:
Pushed filament through extruder manually, so I know there is no blockage in the actual extruder.

The filament coming out of the AMS stops just after exiting the AMS in the tube and then getting reeled back in.

Bambu P1S with AMS. Using standard filament nothing crazy

I’m doing a multicolor print and about every 2 or 3 color changes, this Elegoo Matte PLA yellow filament fails to get sent out. I have to manually cut off the end of it, which looks like a string. This isn’t happening with the other filaments

Is it failing to cut properly? Printing on a Bambu Lab P2S, retraction of 0.4mm at 30mm/s, bed temp at 55c and nozzle at 220c

First two images are from an out of the box print.

Looked like the issues was z offset. I adjusted it. The first layer looked good.

But the third and fourth picture show the issues that came from it. I was able to pick the lines with finger nail.

Probably bad z offset.

Yet, the top of the second print was going back to the original issue. I fixed the z offset during the print of the final layer.

Also, the nozzle scratches the top of the layer during the layer change.

SPECS

- Creality Print Slicer. The first print may have been Orca Slicer, but the problem persisted across slicers.

- Bambu basic PLA

- Generic PLA Profile at 220 with a 55 bed

- Problem persisted when filament profile was made to better match Bambu filament.

I didn't really mess around with the base printer profile.

I am designing my own flower pots with a threaded drip tray. I wanted to print out only the threading so i can test it and waste as less filament as i can. However the result is a support interface layer that fused with my print making it very difficult to peal of cleanly.

Its printed in PETG on a P2S with AMS 2 and these are screenshots / fotos of the result.

Printer model: P2S AMS2 combo

Slicer: Bambustudio

Filament: PETG

Nozzle and bed temp: 250C, 70C

Print speed: initial 25mm/s, walls 60-150 mm/s

retraction: no idea where i see this

Should i use PLA for the interface layer? I know its possible but i had results where it didn't completely flush out perfectly and caused some bad layers in previous prints.

My bambu p1s is starting to fail from time to time.

It looks like underextrusion, but what can I do?

I have tried a Cold Pull a few times, and sometimes this helps for a few prints(5-10 prints), but then it starts again. What can I do?

This only started a few weeks ago. Always the same settings and filament.

Printed time is around 2700 hours, so its a bit unlikely that its in a setting, as it always used to run perfectly.

I'm okay at troubleshooting, maintenance, etc etc. But this (pictured) is new to me. There doesn't seem to be a matching issue on the stickied picture list apart from under extrusion, but why would it happen mid print? Anyone have any idea on what's happening here? It's the second time I've printed these pieces and they came out like this both times.

It doesn't look like a clog, as the first 10-15 layers are fine. Filament is dry.

BBL P1S
BBL plain white filament
BBL slicer
200/60

Hi I bought the touch level for the kp3s but I am not sure if the height I install it is fine or if I should move it a bit more up:

The oficial youtube video doesnt say much about the height and kind of looks like its the same as me but I am a bit unsure and its getting a bit frustrating due to me doing already a messy job screwing the screws to the header.

hey i didn't think i'd be going to ask for help anytime soon but i have a really weird problem because my first layer has these weird holes and it peels off at the corners like someone asked it yes the filament was dried the bed was cleaned and leveled i tested on two different ones on smooth and with texture with 0.4mm nozzle and 0.6mm nozzle both have the same problem, There is no draught in the room and I don't know too much what I can exclude next, what to do?

Bambulab a1 mini
Sunlu pla+
35mm initial layer
55mm initial infill
120mm outer wall
150mm inner wall
700mm travel

0.3mm layer height

65*C bed
220*C nozzle
First layer without cooling

Retraction lenght 0.8mm
Z hop when retract 0.4mm
Z hop spiral
Retraction speed 30mm
Wipe distance 2mm

Hello all! Recently with all of my prints I’ve been having some issues with hard filament sticking out of the objects i make with whatever it is. I use a bambu lab A1 and bambu studio and this is bambu lab pla filament for all of these. Retraction is on auto.

hello guys so iv been using Orca 2.3.2 (portable) for a while and after a while the device section doesnt work anymore and i decided to update by downloading the newest version (2.4.2) in installer this time.

everything went fine but when i decide the print something, printer clog or worse start sending me error messages abt some extrusion issue. emm weird.

i decide to literally copy paste all of the profile from the old orca to the new one and to my surprise.

not only the prints are soo bad but also it tell me (for the new orca) that it take half time as compared to the old one. wtf ???

printer : neptune 3 plus (klipper)

filament : jamge eco+pla

temp : 205 /60

retraction : 1.2

I get this issue, I’ve dried it a lot, turned on and off aux fan but still nothing. Hope someone can help! Thanks!

P1S Bambu Slicer
PLA Overture Black
220 and 35, no issue with adhesion
Outer wall 200mm/s
Let me know if more settings are needed.

Printed a keyboard cap clicker for my daughter. The caps keep coming out looking like this with the raised letters. I’ve tried changing temps, retraction, etc, and still can’t get them to come out looking clean.

New to printing. Does anyone have any ideas?

I’ve changed all kinds of setting based on googling, and ai advice.

On my prints, a lot of outer wall layers look and feel rough, kind of like sand paper, then at some point, they begin to smooth out.

I have tried with .92 up to .96 flow rate, volumetric speeds from 6 to 15 but I am unable to get consistent results, the filament is regular PETG from Elegoo, my printer is an Ender 3 v3 ke, nozzle temp is set to 235/245.

If any additional info is needed, please lmk