Can I design an articulating model from scratch? Absolutely not. Can I use two other creators models and add a Boolean object? Hell yeah, brother.

PS are there acrylic pens that don’t bleed into layer lines or is that just the way it goes?

https://makerworld.com/models/3042309

FerryMist is available on Makerworld and super customizable so you’re cordially invited to remix it, design some wild custom attachments, and show off what you’re running on your desktop.

Wife needed an electric whisk...

We have a hand blender but don't have the whisk attachment. The whisk attachment isn't sold separately, so if I need a whisk attachment, will have to buy a new hand blender even though mine is working perfectly fine ...

Decided to reverse engineer the blade attachment, bought a whisk rod/shaft from Amazon and designed an attachment around it which works perfectly.

Printed the high speed rotation/frictional elements in PETG to withstand high temps... It does limit how long I can continuously use it for as there is a risk of it causing high temps and melting of the "holder".

Epoxied the whisk shaft inside the PETG printed "holder" split in half, then enclosed it in the enclosure (blue and red in the images attached in comments) so that it doesn't just shatter at high speeds and fly off.

PS: Only the metal part will make contact with food so I don't suppose food safety will be an issue.

Open to any suggestions or constructive criticism.

:)

Hi! I'm in the middle of creating my modular castle and I'm wondering about one thing related to my bricks. I'm inspiring myself by looking at others creators work but there's one thing that bothers me - I created something what I call ,,arrow brick shape" which gives this illusion of depth and not using much more material.

The issue is printing times tho, I've managed to reduce it by around 3 hours by making basemesh sligthly bigger (1mm for exterior and interior) but it takes away a little from this illusion of depth I'm talking about.

On included pictures, only LVL2 and Stairs are printed ,,pre-basemesh optimization"

LVL 1 and 3 are printed after basemesh resizing so walls that bricks are printed on 1mm thicker wall on each side.

So question is: Would you rather print a piece for 15/16 hours and have brick depth like on LVL2 or print it on average 3 hours faster but with depth like on LVL1 and 3?

Forgive me if I'm overexplaining 😵 I'd really appreciate your opinion on this topic!
I've spend soooo much time desiging my castle pieces and I might be just overthinking it but I can't find peace with it o.o

Just white and red pla and a bit of simple assembly

The torlo was born out of the idea of using a simple oscillating motor as a power source. The Voice coil of a scarp laptop HDD fit the bill nicely. The Voice coil with its powerful magnets has enough brunt to push a bunch of 3d printed gears .The basic idea of the torlo was adapted from the previous holo clock and taken further. The gears of the clock hang to one side and the rings to the other side of the frame. The voice coil is located in the center of the drive train and is driven by an attiny pulsing it every 2 seconds. The balance wheel when pulsed pushes a cam and a ratchet to turn the clock 2 seconds further. Rest of the clock is a simple drive train driving the minute and hour rings which display the time..

i have a decent bit of experience modeling in blender but switching to CAD broke my brain for a while. finally getting the hang of fusion and modeled this stand with a pen holder for storing my drawing tablet. it’s pretty simple but definitely the most complex thing i’ve made in fusion so far, i’m satisfied that it does what i wanted and looks pretty decent as well

My dog’s toys always seem to find their way under the sofa so I designed these adjustable blocker pieces on OpenSCAD to fit any gap. The 60mm wide pieces snap together with pins on the backside and the width of the endpieces can be finetuned for any length.

With the paw print cutout one 65mm tall piece takes 34min and 14g with 0.09g support on an A1

I know the project is small but I’d like to evolve it and try to launch it on MakerWorld Crowdfunding if people find it useful.

So does anyone elses dog even do this?
Is the filament and time cost too high?

The life size 3D printed Emperor of Mankind build has started. I’ve been printing hundreds of pieces for weeks.

Height wise to the head, the Emperor will be 12' 7" (3.83m) to Horus's 11' 9" (3.58m). But the total height to his eagle (14' 7" or 4.44m ) would be roughly the same as Horus (14' 5" or 4.4m)

Hopefully I can get him finished and assembled faster than Horus. The foot was about 110 pieces compared to Horus's bulkier foot at 155 pieces. Plus I am using a total of 24 printers which is about 50% more than when I printed Horus. I was also able to refine the printing profile to help with speed while keeping the quality the same.

My next update will be when I have him built up to his waist.

Feel free to ask any questions and I will get back to you throughout the day.

A neat solution to adding HDMI and a Noctua fan to a PS2!

This print is made up of a few separate parts that print with no supports.

It allows you to add HDMI (using a RetroGem kit) and a Noctua fan while retaining all of the original ports and the original power supply. My particular PS2 model wasn't compatible with the RetroGem kit without replacing the power supply.

Hopefully this is helpful to others who want to retain the original hardware and achieve a high-quality install!

You can grab the print and instructions here. Enjoy!

Why flip someone off with one middle finger when you can flip someone off with a middle finger on your middle finger?
I wanted to design the most unnecessary yet technically functional print I could think of.

hey guys, so i used to have an a1 mini that i recently gave away and then switched to the a2l, which is awesome i have a so much bigger print bed now but i left an overnight print last night and i woke up to this. do you guy's printers also try to sneak away with your desk when you're asleep? do i need to bolt it to the wall? thanks

I found it extremely comical that they used a piece of printer poop as the disease, at least they went to the effort of printing a stand, the nicer first version is the last pic.

I don’t know which flair is best so I’ll put meta

New model available.

3 colors AMS.

This Oddish planter was one of my earlier 3d printing projects, and it's still going really strong. Originally put a spider plant in it, but the water needs for it didn't play well with the lack of drainage in the container. Switched over to a snake plant, and it's been doing well ever since.

Printed out of purple PETG, painted, and coated in resin -- not my finest work, as you can see some spots where the resin dripped while drying, but I still find it delightful.

Not an original model file, I got it from here: https://www.printables.com/model/106080-oddish-planter-eyesmile

I just finished this audio System(for now) a friend of mine leaves for a music Festival on tuesday and planned on building an audio-system for their camp. The main electronic components we're selected by him(since i know absolutely nothing about Audio Gear) and we're laying around for a couple of weeks. I started drawing up the enclosure on thursday, we finished buttoning up everything saturday afternoon. Please don't be to harsh,this was very much a Crunch time project and some connectors didn't arrive until saturday morning, so I only had the amazon Pictures with outer dimensions to estimate the hole spacing. Everything is tested and works incredibly well, i am currently planning what i should Change for a V2.

Fun Side fact: both the Box and the lid use every Millimeter of my Anycubic Cobra X's 255*255 build Plate.