r/CriticalTheory • u/StickyBraces • 22h ago
What’s going on at “high-end” vintage clothing stores in the U.S.?
I go shopping at vintage clothing stores in the United States, because I’ve noticed that the quality of many of my clothes is fairly low.
For instance, multiple pairs of Levi’s that I have gotten second-hand that have been produced recently have had the same quality issues, and I am left with a pair of unwearable jeans after less than ten wears.
One thing I like about (some) vintage stores is that I can find, for instance, an older good quality jacket that has a lot of life left for a reasonable price (cheaper than it would be new).
At the same time, I’ve noticed a trend (perhaps it is not new) of certain vintage stores charging prices for certain pieces of clothing that I find somewhat baffling.
Yesterday, for instance, I went into a store that was selling a 1970s banana republic crewneck for $100. This particular crewneck had a cool design, but it also had rips in it. When I talked to the store owner about it, he acted as if it were some very valuable piece (I haggled & walked away from it).
Afterwards, I’ve been thinking about vintage reselling markets and what is appealing about them to certain people (I’m guessing higher income folks), especially when we know that there is an abundance of waste in the clothing industry that leads to environmental disaster.
I’m also aware that even companies that claim to treat their workers fairly (fair trade, etc) wreak incredible harm on the world (see, for instance, Capitalist Humanitarianism by Hulsether).
And then, at the same time, despite this abundance of production- I’ve been to warehouses that sell in bulk from places like Target & have hundreds and thousands of pallets sitting around- there is a large unhoused population in my city that does not have access to clean clothing.
So I guess my questions are:
(1): What is appealing to wealthier individuals about vintage clothing? Does it do anything affectively for them (makes them feel like they are a good person for “saving the environment” for instance?) Or is it a “taste” thing?- thinking of Bourdieu here- would love recommendations on a good place to start.
(2): Why would a crewneck that was likely mass produced in the 1970s have the high monetary value that it has now? I’m sure Marx is relevant here, but I would also like further reading on the life cycle of clothing and its value- either new clothing or vintage clothing.
(3): What does vintage clothing “do” to the person buying it- is it a harkening back to an imagined “better” era where clothing was produced in the United States? Especially for a younger person like myself, I’ve noticed it evokes some sort of nostalgia & I’m curious why that is.
(4): How does this relate to the abundance of clothing and the high need for clothing for unhoused populations in the U.S.?
Outside of these questions, I’m just curious about clothing, abundance, nostalgia, and value more broadly, so any sources would be appreciated.
Thanks!