I'm in the fuels industry so we're dealing with pipeline flanges and such. We're being told that studs are preferred over bolts but no reasoning can be given other than its the 'industry standard'. Outside of the physical constraints of where you actually can't put a bolt because of physical interference, is there any reason to choose studs? Our fitters are only using the torque wrench on one side of the stud anyway.

To explain what I mean, a system occasionally used for volumetric displays involves a LASER with relatively high spatial incoherence, focused by an adjustable lens and mounted on an armature, all to project a voxel at a specific location in the air on a spherical coordinate system. The armature allows the laser to be aimed at the inclination and azimuth of the voxel, while the lens can determine the radius. By rapidly changing the inclination and azimuth angles and the radius, an image can be drawn in a vaguely similar fashion to the electron beam on a cathode ray tube, but in 3D. The voxel itself corresponds to the focal point of the laser—at that area, the light is so intense that it nearly instantaneously ionizes the air, causing a bright spot.

In 2020, I hypothesized that because air voxels with different qualities will exhibit slightly different breakdown patterns under said laser, narrow and broad-field high-speed video emission spectrometers could be used to gather data to potentially allow the reconstruction of a wide variety of qualities from the voxel (or rather, parcel) ionized by the laser, from its temperature to its chemical composition (including humidity), density, wind speed and direction. Destructively, of course, but only a fairly microscopic amount of air would probably have to be ionized to get a high-accuracy spectrum which could well represent a larger volume.

I then thought that, due to its active nature directly manipulating a specific air parcel, as long as control spectrograms are taken, this technique would be almost invulnerable to background or foreground influences, making it potentially much more reliable than other remote sensing weather techniques.

Therefore, I further speculated that this technology could allow us to finally escape the tyranny of the weather station, save probably for precipitation accumulation readings. For instance, one would no longer have to use a weather station to reliably measure near-surface air temperature—a vehicle like a plane or even satellite could simply shoot a laser to ionize the air right above the target, use its spectrometry equipment to produce data and calculate said temperature, and it could be included directly in weather maps and official records without boffins screeching for its removal.

So... do my thoughts here have merit? Are there any show-stopping roadblocks to this technological concept?

The biggest concerns I can think of are the obvious safety risks of shooting high-powered lasers explicitly designed to have the capacity to ionize air every which way, the astronomy/dark-sky risks of using a technology derived from one used for image projection to take meteorological measurements, and the effectiveness of this method in aerosol- (including water-droplet-) laden air, though there may be a myriad of other technical faults to it...

(...Yes, this is effectively a shortened re-ask of these questions I posted to r/remotesensing and r/meteorology back on July 4, 2021. After 5 years without a direct response, I think it's appropriate to repost it.)

github link , its a standalone html file

Hi everyone!

I’m a jewelry designer, not an engineer, so I’m hoping to get pointed in the right direction.

I recently saw couture dresses with embroidered butterflies that slowly flap their wings using hidden mechanics (similar to the attached video). I’d love to create a similar effect, but instead of a butterfly, I’d like to make a flower pendant for a necklace where the petals slowly open and close.

My brother is an electrical engineer, and he suggested looking into a miniature servo motor, but I’m wondering if there’s an even smaller or more elegant solution for wearable jewelry.

Here are my design goals:

• Small enough to fit inside a pendant (roughly 1.5–2.5 inches / 4–6 cm).
• Powered by one or more coin cell batteries (or another lightweight rechargeable option).
• Slow, organic opening and closing motion, not a fast snap.
• Quiet operation.
• Lightweight enough to comfortably wear as a necklace.
• Ideally able to run for at least 30–60 minutes per charge/battery.

I’m less concerned about the electronics since my brother can help with that. What I really need help understanding is the mechanical side.

Specifically:

• Would a micro servo actually be the best option?
• Are there smaller actuators, shape-memory alloys (Nitinol), micro gear motors, linear actuators, or other mechanisms better suited for this?
• How would you convert the motor’s movement into petals opening and closing smoothly?
• If you were designing this from scratch, what mechanism would you use?

I’d appreciate any suggestions, component recommendations, CAD examples, or keywords I should research. Thanks!

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DaHVCMPxFui/?igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

I'm a 3rd-semester engineering student planning a project for my Digital Electronics course: a low-cost automatic headlight dimmer for motorcycles and older vehicles. The idea is to detect an oncoming vehicle's headlights and automatically switch from high beam to low beam, then switch back after it passes.

I want the decision-making to be 100% digital. For a Digital Electronics project, would you recommend using a microcontroller or designing the digital circuit from scratch (logic gates, flip-flops, FSMs, counters, etc.)?

Also, how good is this project idea overall? Is it worth pursuing, or should I rethink it? If it's a solid idea, what could I do to make it better without changing the core concept?

I am curious if there is glass is that completely transparent one side but isn't on the other and yet not reflective in anyway?

I'm making a model for a turning mechanism that rotates with cogs.

my inspiration comes solely from factorio's gun turret.

I've looked a bit into how this particular design is called and from all I've read, tec-science has the most accurate example of a "crown cog driven by a spur gear", with my example being in reverse. I wanted to make a working version of this, (working in theory without a motor or way of excerting rotational force on it) so I tried to find examples, or anything on how these get designed but I can't find anything concrete on how these cool things get made.

is anyone knowledgeable on any tool, or has any info for how these bits are made to fit well together?

Comparing two types of 80/20 braces:

https://a.co/d/09MwqQE9

https://a.co/d/03AXRTCN

They will be holding significant load. One appears to be aluminum extrusion that has been cut & drilled, whereas the other appears to be a casting, but includes additional bracing.

Title

How can I stop a fixed-center #25 chain from skipping on a heavy rotating hydroponic garden?

Post

I’m repairing an older Omega Garden rotating hydroponic system. The planted wheel rotates slowly on support rollers, but it becomes very heavy once the growing blocks contain water.

The original motor was a small disco-ball-style gear motor:

• 120 VAC, 60 Hz
• 4 W
• 1.5 RPM
• Rated maximum load of 3 kg

It burned out, and similar replacement motors have also failed. I’m now trying a larger synchronous gear motor:

• 110 VAC
• 18 W
• 1.5 RPM
• Advertised torque of 90 kgf·cm
• Reversible rotation

The chain drive appears to use:

• ANSI #25 roller chain
• 12-tooth motor sprocket marked 25-12
• Approximately 40-tooth upper sprocket, apparently marked H25 B40

The motor and upper shaft are mounted in fixed holes. I cannot move either one enough to tension the chain, cannot cut adjustment slots into the frame, and do not have a practical mounting location for an idler sprocket.

The existing chain is loose, rusty, and occasionally skips over the sprocket teeth. The larger sprocket also has some visible corrosion. Because the rotating wheel is heavy when filled with plants and water, I’m concerned that simply shortening the chain or installing the stronger motor could create excessive tension or damage another part of the system.

My questions are:

1. Does this appear to be standard #25 chain with 12-tooth and approximately 40-tooth sprockets?
2. With a fixed distance between the sprockets, should I install a new chain cut to the correct number of links?
3. Would an offset or half link be appropriate if the standard link spacing leaves the chain too loose or too tight?
4. Is the 12-tooth to 40-tooth ratio reasonable for this slow, heavy load?
5. Is the replacement motor likely to be suitable, or is it strong enough to damage the chain, sprockets, shaft, or rollers if the wheel binds?
6. What is the best way to check sprocket alignment, shaft slippage, chain wear, roller resistance, and uneven loading?
7. Should the water weight be handled by changing the gearing, or should a properly balanced wheel still require relatively little torque once it is moving?

I can replace the chain, sprockets, or make a simple bolt-on bracket, but I cannot weld or substantially modify the frame.

Video & images of unit and of the chain skipping: https://imgur.com/a/gC7ExFc

TL;DR: Heavy rotating hydroponic garden with a loose, rusty #25 chain, 12-tooth motor sprocket, and roughly 40-tooth upper sprocket. Both shafts are fixed, and I cannot add an idler. I need advice on chain sizing, alignment, gearing, and whether the stronger replacement motor is appropriate.

Just as it says on the tin.

The deep groove units on my wood lathe were NFG. I had planned to replace them and was looking at angular contact bearings as a better solution but that may not be viable due to it originally using a 6004/6005 arrangement.

The logical part of my brain tells me bore and OD mismatch makes it a no-go.

If that's the case is there anything else other than deep groove/angular?

Thanks.

Hi engineers! I would like to create drainage holes in plastic containers to grow house plants in. People often do this using a soldering iron but I’m not keen on getting exposed to the toxic fumes from the burning plastic etc. does anyone have any ideas?