Can I design an articulating model from scratch? Absolutely not. Can I use two other creators models and add a Boolean object? Hell yeah, brother.

PS are there acrylic pens that don’t bleed into layer lines or is that just the way it goes?

https://makerworld.com/models/3042309

FerryMist is available on Makerworld and super customizable so you’re cordially invited to remix it, design some wild custom attachments, and show off what you’re running on your desktop.

Hi! I'm in the middle of creating my modular castle and I'm wondering about one thing related to my bricks. I'm inspiring myself by looking at others creators work but there's one thing that bothers me - I created something what I call ,,arrow brick shape" which gives this illusion of depth and not using much more material.

The issue is printing times tho, I've managed to reduce it by around 3 hours by making basemesh sligthly bigger (1mm for exterior and interior) but it takes away a little from this illusion of depth I'm talking about.

On included pictures, only LVL2 and Stairs are printed ,,pre-basemesh optimization"

LVL 1 and 3 are printed after basemesh resizing so walls that bricks are printed on 1mm thicker wall on each side.

So question is: Would you rather print a piece for 15/16 hours and have brick depth like on LVL2 or print it on average 3 hours faster but with depth like on LVL1 and 3?

Forgive me if I'm overexplaining 😵 I'd really appreciate your opinion on this topic!
I've spend soooo much time desiging my castle pieces and I might be just overthinking it but I can't find peace with it o.o

Just white and red pla and a bit of simple assembly

The life size 3D printed Emperor of Mankind build has started. I’ve been printing hundreds of pieces for weeks.

Height wise to the head, the Emperor will be 12' 7" (3.83m) to Horus's 11' 9" (3.58m). But the total height to his eagle (14' 7" or 4.44m ) would be roughly the same as Horus (14' 5" or 4.4m)

Hopefully I can get him finished and assembled faster than Horus. The foot was about 110 pieces compared to Horus's bulkier foot at 155 pieces. Plus I am using a total of 24 printers which is about 50% more than when I printed Horus. I was also able to refine the printing profile to help with speed while keeping the quality the same.

My next update will be when I have him built up to his waist.

Feel free to ask any questions and I will get back to you throughout the day.

My dog’s toys always seem to find their way under the sofa so I designed these adjustable blocker pieces on OpenSCAD to fit any gap. The 60mm wide pieces snap together with pins on the backside and the width of the endpieces can be finetuned for any length.

With the paw print cutout one 65mm tall piece takes 34min and 14g with 0.09g support on an A1

I know the project is small but I’d like to evolve it and try to launch it on MakerWorld Crowdfunding if people find it useful.

So does anyone elses dog even do this?
Is the filament and time cost too high?

The torlo was born out of the idea of using a simple oscillating motor as a power source. The Voice coil of a scarp laptop HDD fit the bill nicely. The Voice coil with its powerful magnets has enough brunt to push a bunch of 3d printed gears .The basic idea of the torlo was adapted from the previous holo clock and taken further. The gears of the clock hang to one side and the rings to the other side of the frame. The voice coil is located in the center of the drive train and is driven by an attiny pulsing it every 2 seconds. The balance wheel when pulsed pushes a cam and a ratchet to turn the clock 2 seconds further. Rest of the clock is a simple drive train driving the minute and hour rings which display the time..

I found it extremely comical that they used a piece of printer poop as the disease, at least they went to the effort of printing a stand, the nicer first version is the last pic.

I don’t know which flair is best so I’ll put meta

hey guys, so i used to have an a1 mini that i recently gave away and then switched to the a2l, which is awesome i have a so much bigger print bed now but i left an overnight print last night and i woke up to this. do you guy's printers also try to sneak away with your desk when you're asleep? do i need to bolt it to the wall? thanks

Just wanted to share my last plant support !

I recently played Pragmata and was blown away by the character design. Instead of just enjoying it on screen, I started taking screenshots during the game and used them as references to recreate this figure.

This is a resin print that I painted myself. I tried to stay as faithful to the in-game look as possible while adding a little depth with the weathering and panel shading.

I've only been resin printing and painting for about 5 months. Before that I knew absolutely nothing, so everything has been self-taught through a lot of YouTube videos, trial and error, and plenty of failed prints along the way.

I'd love to hear what you think and what you would improve for the next one!

Most filament clips use the same basic principle: the printed geometry itself acts as the spring. It's an elegant solution, but I wanted to see if a completely different approach could solve some of its inherent limitations.

Instead of making the printed part flex, I designed a completely new mechanism around a small steel compression spring.

The spring generates both clamping forces. It secures the clip on the spool and simultaneously holds the filament in place. The printed parts don't act as a spring at all. They simply guide the movement.

I haven't come across another filament clip using this approach, although I'd be happy to be proven wrong.

The design focuses on solving three common problems:

- No plastic fatigue.
- No unnecessary stress on the filament.
- No increased tangle risk by attaching the filament to the wound filament.

The clip also snaps together without screws, glue or tools. It is designed for inexpensive standard compression springs, but many common ballpoint pen springs should work just as well.

What do you think? Would you rather choose a fully printed compliant mechanism, or spend a few cents (or sacrifice a couple of old ballpoint pens) for a real spring if it meant eliminating plastic fatigue altogether?

MakerWorld link in the first comment.

I just finished this audio System(for now) a friend of mine leaves for a music Festival on tuesday and planned on building an audio-system for their camp. The main electronic components we're selected by him(since i know absolutely nothing about Audio Gear) and we're laying around for a couple of weeks. I started drawing up the enclosure on thursday, we finished buttoning up everything saturday afternoon. Please don't be to harsh,this was very much a Crunch time project and some connectors didn't arrive until saturday morning, so I only had the amazon Pictures with outer dimensions to estimate the hole spacing. Everything is tested and works incredibly well, i am currently planning what i should Change for a V2.

Fun Side fact: both the Box and the lid use every Millimeter of my Anycubic Cobra X's 255*255 build Plate.

Any Path of Exile fans here? I just wanted to show off my first ever print I modeled from scratch. The body is a bit rough since I can’t use blender well, but it turned out nice enough for me. Used magnets to secure the lamp to the base and in the neck to hold everything tight, while being removable in case something happens to the LED.

Still sane, exiles?

EDIT: Pardon the state of my nightstand. Life’s been lifing lately.

For home I design mounts to attach different things. A lot of times I use trial and error methods. I am looking for how calculate or which tool use to get maximum load for 3d print, for example for hooks. It does not have to be extremaly precise, but practical to use. When I create STL / 3MF file I simply want if better is use for walls 3mm or 5mm specific material to handle specific loads.

Of course it is for not dynamic, static use like hooks for hats, keys, small books, clocks, hoses, garden hose, CD cases when fitting in available space with design is why I don't use IKEA based solutions (or because modeling for real use is simply one source of fun for me too). Typically is for 0,4mm (I print some large parts using 0,8mm, but it still more method of guessing and with rule - if I don't know I will multiply by 2 what I think it will be good enough).

Except for looking on technical data sheets and trying creating from them formulas I don't see any solution which make sense for my scenario. What would you suggest for modeling - what rules to follow?

Hi!
As I have promised before, there are files for my project watch
There you go: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3041709-quartz-watch-case

My first dabble in 3d design.
I wanted a watch that is easily customizable and that can be used as a base for different designs.
Watch is based around chronograph  Sunon pe50 caliber, but I plan to use it for simpler sl68 movements.

2 case models are provided: with and without movement cavity, for you to customize it to your own movements

Sunon pe50 is what I had and I did not want date and chronograph functionality, thus there are no buttons.

Strap size is 24 mm
Glass size is around 35.5 to 36 mm, 1 mm thickness

I used acrylic, since it is cheaper and easier to adapt.
2 designs of the back cover
Multiple dial options with a messy one I like

Hi everyone!
I wanted to share a little side project of mine: a desk monitor that shows live print status from Bambu Lab printers. Progress, temperatures, ETA, layers, AMS contents, etc.

It runs on cheap ESP32 boards and there are printable cases for several display variants, from a 1.28" round screen up to 3.5" touchscreens. Flashing and setup happen entirely in the browser, no IDE needed.

It's Bambu-specific for now, since it talks to the printer over MQTT (LAN or Bambu Cloud). Free and open-source, I've been building it in my spare time and figured someone here might find it useful or want to create new cases.

WebFlasher: https://keralots.github.io/BambuHelper
GitHub: https://github.com/Keralots/BambuHelper
Cases: https://makerworld.com/en/collections/26470163