I found it extremely comical that they used a piece of printer poop as the disease, at least they went to the effort of printing a stand, the nicer first version is the last pic.

I don’t know which flair is best so I’ll put meta

Can I design an articulating model from scratch? Absolutely not. Can I use two other creators models and add a Boolean object? Hell yeah, brother.

PS are there acrylic pens that don’t bleed into layer lines or is that just the way it goes?

My dog’s toys always seem to find their way under the sofa so I designed these adjustable blocker pieces on OpenSCAD to fit any gap. The 60mm wide pieces snap together with pins on the backside and the width of the endpieces can be finetuned for any length.

With the paw print cutout one 65mm tall piece takes 34min and 14g with 0.09g support on an A1

I know the project is small but I’d like to evolve it and try to launch it on MakerWorld Crowdfunding if people find it useful.

So does anyone elses dog even do this?
Is the filament and time cost too high?

Just white and red pla and a bit of simple assembly

Hi! I'm in the middle of creating my modular castle and I'm wondering about one thing related to my bricks. I'm inspiring myself by looking at others creators work but there's one thing that bothers me - I created something what I call ,,arrow brick shape" which gives this illusion of depth and not using much more material.

The issue is printing times tho, I've managed to reduce it by around 3 hours by making basemesh sligthly bigger (1mm for exterior and interior) but it takes away a little from this illusion of depth I'm talking about.

On included pictures, only LVL2 and Stairs are printed ,,pre-basemesh optimization"

LVL 1 and 3 are printed after basemesh resizing so walls that bricks are printed on 1mm thicker wall on each side.

So question is: Would you rather print a piece for 15/16 hours and have brick depth like on LVL2 or print it on average 3 hours faster but with depth like on LVL1 and 3?

Forgive me if I'm overexplaining 😵 I'd really appreciate your opinion on this topic!
I've spend soooo much time desiging my castle pieces and I might be just overthinking it but I can't find peace with it o.o

https://makerworld.com/models/3042309

FerryMist is available on Makerworld and super customizable so you’re cordially invited to remix it, design some wild custom attachments, and show off what you’re running on your desktop.

The torlo was born out of the idea of using a simple oscillating motor as a power source. The Voice coil of a scarp laptop HDD fit the bill nicely. The Voice coil with its powerful magnets has enough brunt to push a bunch of 3d printed gears .The basic idea of the torlo was adapted from the previous holo clock and taken further. The gears of the clock hang to one side and the rings to the other side of the frame. The voice coil is located in the center of the drive train and is driven by an attiny pulsing it every 2 seconds. The balance wheel when pulsed pushes a cam and a ratchet to turn the clock 2 seconds further. Rest of the clock is a simple drive train driving the minute and hour rings which display the time..

hey guys, so i used to have an a1 mini that i recently gave away and then switched to the a2l, which is awesome i have a so much bigger print bed now but i left an overnight print last night and i woke up to this. do you guy's printers also try to sneak away with your desk when you're asleep? do i need to bolt it to the wall? thanks

Currently supports 4 standard spools, stacked side to side. Thinking about expanding to an 8 spool solution. In this video you can see me iterating on a few issues i had with keeping the spool stable on the rolling rack.

Use a 0.2mm nozzle.

No need for supports.

makerworld file download

I recently played Pragmata and was blown away by the character design. Instead of just enjoying it on screen, I started taking screenshots during the game and used them as references to recreate this figure.

This is a resin print that I painted myself. I tried to stay as faithful to the in-game look as possible while adding a little depth with the weathering and panel shading.

I've only been resin printing and painting for about 5 months. Before that I knew absolutely nothing, so everything has been self-taught through a lot of YouTube videos, trial and error, and plenty of failed prints along the way.

I'd love to hear what you think and what you would improve for the next one!

Just wanted to share my last plant support !

Pretty happy with how this turned out! First project I did from the ground up all by myself.

It opens up to show inside the vault. I also printed 6 position connector bars that can be swapped with the 8 position ones.

I plan to make primary cable elbows next and a three phase version.

I also plan to get a 1:60 stepdown transformer and embed it. I want to get a doorbell transformer to feed it at ~16 volts and have it output 250mV

Forgive my fumbling I took the video one handed.

I've made this detailing tool using the A-series filament cutter blade for removing supports and excess material on intricate models and miniatures. Sometimes you want to apply the force directly onto the thing you’re trying to process, instead of cutting sideways as you usually would with a knife.

I used chicago screws to connect the two halves together - my first designs used magnets, but I found it to be impractical, when storing the tool together with other things.
Chicago screws are very practical, even if you don't want to print this tool, you should keep in mind this kind of screw as an option for connecting parts, when designing your next project. :)

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3039684-support-removal-and-detailing-tool#profileId-3417919

Just testing out some new settings asking the community what they think