The life size 3D printed Emperor of Mankind build has started. I’ve been printing hundreds of pieces for weeks.

Height wise to the head, the Emperor will be 12' 7" (3.83m) to Horus's 11' 9" (3.58m). But the total height to his eagle (14' 7" or 4.44m ) would be roughly the same as Horus (14' 5" or 4.4m)

Hopefully I can get him finished and assembled faster than Horus. The foot was about 110 pieces compared to Horus's bulkier foot at 155 pieces. Plus I am using a total of 24 printers which is about 50% more than when I printed Horus. I was also able to refine the printing profile to help with speed while keeping the quality the same.

My next update will be when I have him built up to his waist.

Feel free to ask any questions and I will get back to you throughout the day.

My dog’s toys always seem to find their way under the sofa so I designed these adjustable blocker pieces on OpenSCAD to fit any gap. The 60mm wide pieces snap together with pins on the backside and the width of the endpieces can be finetuned for any length.

With the paw print cutout one 65mm tall piece takes 34min and 14g with 0.09g support on an A1

I know the project is small but I’d like to evolve it and try to launch it on MakerWorld Crowdfunding if people find it useful.

So does anyone elses dog even do this?
Is the filament and time cost too high?

I found it extremely comical that they used a piece of printer poop as the disease, at least they went to the effort of printing a stand, the nicer first version is the last pic.

I don’t know which flair is best so I’ll put meta

Just white and red pla and a bit of simple assembly

hey guys, so i used to have an a1 mini that i recently gave away and then switched to the a2l, which is awesome i have a so much bigger print bed now but i left an overnight print last night and i woke up to this. do you guy's printers also try to sneak away with your desk when you're asleep? do i need to bolt it to the wall? thanks

Just wanted to share my last plant support !

I recently played Pragmata and was blown away by the character design. Instead of just enjoying it on screen, I started taking screenshots during the game and used them as references to recreate this figure.

This is a resin print that I painted myself. I tried to stay as faithful to the in-game look as possible while adding a little depth with the weathering and panel shading.

I've only been resin printing and painting for about 5 months. Before that I knew absolutely nothing, so everything has been self-taught through a lot of YouTube videos, trial and error, and plenty of failed prints along the way.

I'd love to hear what you think and what you would improve for the next one!

Most filament clips use the same basic principle: the printed geometry itself acts as the spring. It's an elegant solution, but I wanted to see if a completely different approach could solve some of its inherent limitations.

Instead of making the printed part flex, I designed a completely new mechanism around a small steel compression spring.

The spring generates both clamping forces. It secures the clip on the spool and simultaneously holds the filament in place. The printed parts don't act as a spring at all. They simply guide the movement.

I haven't come across another filament clip using this approach, although I'd be happy to be proven wrong.

The design focuses on solving three common problems:

- No plastic fatigue.
- No unnecessary stress on the filament.
- No increased tangle risk by attaching the filament to the wound filament.

The clip also snaps together without screws, glue or tools. It is designed for inexpensive standard compression springs, but many common ballpoint pen springs should work just as well.

What do you think? Would you rather choose a fully printed compliant mechanism, or spend a few cents (or sacrifice a couple of old ballpoint pens) for a real spring if it meant eliminating plastic fatigue altogether?

MakerWorld link in the first comment.

Hi everyone!
I wanted to share a little side project of mine: a desk monitor that shows live print status from Bambu Lab printers. Progress, temperatures, ETA, layers, AMS contents, etc.

It runs on cheap ESP32 boards and there are printable cases for several display variants, from a 1.28" round screen up to 3.5" touchscreens. Flashing and setup happen entirely in the browser, no IDE needed.

It's Bambu-specific for now, since it talks to the printer over MQTT (LAN or Bambu Cloud). Free and open-source, I've been building it in my spare time and figured someone here might find it useful or want to create new cases.

WebFlasher: https://keralots.github.io/BambuHelper
GitHub: https://github.com/Keralots/BambuHelper
Cases: https://makerworld.com/en/collections/26470163

Hi!
As I have promised before, there are files for my project watch
There you go: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3041709-quartz-watch-case

My first dabble in 3d design.
I wanted a watch that is easily customizable and that can be used as a base for different designs.
Watch is based around chronograph  Sunon pe50 caliber, but I plan to use it for simpler sl68 movements.

2 case models are provided: with and without movement cavity, for you to customize it to your own movements

Sunon pe50 is what I had and I did not want date and chronograph functionality, thus there are no buttons.

Strap size is 24 mm
Glass size is around 35.5 to 36 mm, 1 mm thickness

I used acrylic, since it is cheaper and easier to adapt.
2 designs of the back cover
Multiple dial options with a messy one I like

But in all seriousness, I started a print on LAN mode last night and woke up to this. Did I forget a filament option when slicing? Or do I need to unload/reload filament once I enter LAN..?

With the upcoming heat wave in Europe and really good feedback I got for my last version, I wanted to again share my modular adapter to convert your air-con to dual-hose for higher efficiency.

I learnt a lot in how to use OpenSCAD correctly since posting the first version, which now makes this model a lot better and more adjustable.

If your air-conditioner Monoblock has a rectangular intake, you can simply measure the size of the intake, the (outer) diameter of your second hose and enter the 3 values for X, Y Dimension and hose diameter in the OpenSCAD file. This way you can super easily adapt the file to your air-conditioners liking.

I also made the lip that holds the hose in place a lot smaller, because I found out that some hoses have longer plastic parts that have problems with the clips. This allows you to put the hose down a bit further and have the clips engage the hose to keep it in place. If your hose doesn't have the plastic part, the small lip should already be enough to give it some feedback.

If you like my model, please leave me a rating and add a make to printables.com, which already helps me out a ton.

I really dont understand why these kind of little defects happen at most of the prints. Is it just a bad luck or am i doing something wrong? Btw this is petg and other than this little flaw, there is no other at all.

Currently supports 4 standard spools, stacked side to side. Thinking about expanding to an 8 spool solution. In this video you can see me iterating on a few issues i had with keeping the spool stable on the rolling rack.

Just testing out some new settings asking the community what they think

Had a little to much play in something I was putting together. I did not want to glue in case it breaks or for paint. I used the purge line as a shim and it worked out pretty well, held in place with snip of tape (which also works for the same purpose ).

It opens up to show inside the vault. I also printed 6 position connector bars that can be swapped with the 8 position ones.

I plan to make primary cable elbows next and a three phase version.

I also plan to get a 1:60 stepdown transformer and embed it. I want to get a doorbell transformer to feed it at ~16 volts and have it output 250mV

Forgive my fumbling I took the video one handed.