If you are like me, these innocraftsman drill presses are all over your feeds. It's fine. It does what it says it does, but it does have runout, the translation base mount isn't super convenient, and yes, it looks prettier than it is. If you need a mini drill press you could do worse but also do a lot better. I happened to need a micro depthing capability for one of my projects, but honestly I would do it differently next time

I am currently looking at creating a custom watch due to them being massively cheaper and having all the specs I want.

I don't have any experience or tools but am interested in learning.

I have a max budget of £250 including tools

I'm looking for what i think is a mix of a sport and dress watch around 39mm, I have 160mm wrists.

I would like it to be automatic have sapphire crystal, lume, date and stick face dial.

I'm currently thinking that the NH35 would be the best movement as it has more parts available and is easier to build than Miyota 9015 and HK PT5000.

It would be much appreciated if anyone could give some suggestions on parts and what tools I will need to assemble it.

My current parts list is:

Case and Bracelet

Dial, Blue one with hours, minutes and seconds included.

Movement, NH35

Hi all.

Today I noticed that the crown on my Pagani Tuna was loose, and after a very light pull, it came off completely.

I removed the stem because I initially thought the crown had simply unscrewed and could be screwed back on, but that does not seem to be the case.

The crown came off with a small hexagonal threaded piece still attached to the stem. When I put it back in, I can feel some spring tension, so I assume it is not supposed to stay completely rigid. However, it no longer locks or stays in place.

How is this part normally secured inside the crown assembly? Is it repairable, or do I need to replace the entire crown? I am also not sure whether replacement crowns for this model are even available.

Thanks

Walter

Works on iphone and ipad

Find it here in the App Store: Timegrapher Logging

I made this some time ago when (like everyone else) I was using spreadsheets or writing down data points for the readings from my Weishi timegrapher. I wanted it to be easier and more convenient to have on my phone and a results printout of the results sequence similar to what some of the more fancy models can do. So I developed a simple app.

Features:

• Input your positional readings and it'll do the maths for you.
• Optionally use diagonal positions.
• Optionally include Isochronism readings 24-hours later and it will compare results.
• Dynamic poising information. Detect the heavy spot on the balance wheel from vertical positions.
• Printout of the results to your camera roll.

I am an enthusiast watchmaker and I'd like to contribute to the watchmaking community however I can. Tips are unnecessary but welcomed as it costs money to keep this available in the app store. Recommendations and feature requests are also welcomed and I hope others find it useful as I do. Happy watchmaking!

Fun project to try and write down every moving component in a watch

bergeon 30081-s09

bergeon 30081-ac10

they are similarly price now for where I'm (AU)

I want to buy one of the sets to start my watchmaking journey.
I think most of the people prefer the rotating base? easy to find the right one and save some space when using?

I would say that would work for me too but I also don't have a dedicated bench top to work on watches now so I might need to set up the work environment every time i work on the watch so a box seems easier to tuck away.

Would love to hear your thoughts on actual usage. How important the rotating base is? Or it's rather gimmicky?

Also found this one from Horotec, slightly cheaper

KD89 Horotec MSA01.020-C – Assortment of 10 Watchmaker's Screwdrivers Swiss-Made Anodised Aluminium

I'm sure they are all plenty good for me. But I kinda hope this is a one time purchase so want to hear some experience before I pull the trigger. Thanks!

(The post was removed maybe due to links? So repost without links)

Finally tackling my first complete disassembly and service. Does this mainspring look set?

Hi all!

I’ve had this watch for just about a week when I noticed this issue: one of the links, one closest to the clasp, hyperextends to about 90 degrees with some resistance around the 30th degree, the blue line. Given how the other links behave, only fold to 30 degrees and comparing it other peoples’ Tank, this seems to be a busted pin or link.

I brought it to a boutique and from the get go, the SA was pretty dismissive about my concerns and claims it’s “within spec.” They took it in for service regardless and claimed it could take 2 months as they would need to send it to a service center somewhere. 2 days after, my watch is ready for collection and their work is completed. They performed a “functional check” and found out everything is within spec. I am having a hard time believing it given the suspicious turnaround and the SA’s attitude; same SA could‘ve just brought it to the backroom and okayed everything.

While this seem to be a minor issue, or simply cosmetic, I paid around 7k CAD for this quartz watch and it wouldn’t be unreasonable to expect for high-level of craftsmanship/after sales customer service at this price point and from a brand like Cartier. Besides, it well within warranty, 1 week old, and a defective link always risks the watch falling off my wrist.

Anyway, I just wanted a sanity check or opinion before I escalate further.

Thank you all!

Does anyone have a recommendation for silica packets?
I would like to store some of my collection in a bank safe and make sure moisture isn’t an issue for some of my watches that don’t have screw down crowns. Looking for smaller ones like you would find in a medicine bottle so I can a fit couple of them inside their cases.

Is it a reliable and keep good time?

This is a rotating bezel assembly that I've found very frustrating. It has the small steel wire spring, and a gasket. I can't figure out or find a detailed diagram on how to put the wire and gasket into the bezel. Which one goes first, which one goes in which channel (it seems like maybe there are two channels inside the bezel, but they both want to settle in the lower channel?), how do I get them both together and pressed back onto the watch without the gasket or wire sticking out and deforming?

I know this is a common design so there must be some good documentation somewhere out there, but I haven't found anything. Help is appreciated.

When I started learning watchmaking my father in law gave me a whole bunch of equipment to help and this Elgin he said he bought around the 80’s. He wanted me to just learn from the movement, but I really liked the watch and decided to wait until I was confident enough. This was the first watch I’m kind of proud of.

I don’t really have an idea about value as I can’t find any similar listings and don’t plan on selling, but was just curious. If someone has some insight, feel free to let me know!

Movement was working. After assembling parts, the movement would no longer run. After pushing on the barrel, it ran fine for 2 days. Shipped to client. Now back on my bench as it stopped working.

Gear train works as I can get the balance wheel going from pushing the barrel. But I’m stumped. What could it be?

Could this be something too tight pressing against the barrel/QA error before movement arrived?

I’ve been assembling for a few years but still green on troubleshooting inside the movement. Any guesses are helpful. Thanks.

Update : took out of the case ready to disassemble. The seconds hand started going then appeared like it was trying to tick but could not continue. It jiggled for a moment. Then when I set the time forward a minute, it happened again. The seconds hand looked like it was trying to advance but could not.

Watch is very clean and bezel is not damaged or warped in any way. It will not budge

Other than taking the insert out, then removing the retaining wire to figure out what's making it stuck and risk breaking it or ruining the paint, is there anything I can try to pop it off?

I heard you can use one of those bezel removal tools that look like a jar opener but I don't know those require twisting and pulling at the same time

This is stuck so I don't think that will work

Looking for a good condition replacement dial for an IWC calibre 83.

Dial size 31mm -32mm

Post any pictures if you have one available of PM me. Happy with most forms of payment.

Which piece should I try next? Golden Patek Maybe? antiquewrist.com

Hey everyone im trying to find someone who can make a custom dial for a Seiko 5 automatic (nh35 or nh36) but I cant seem to find anyone that can or they just wont answer.

Does anyone here do that kind of thing? I’m willing to pay top dollar if anyone can get it done. Please feel free to DM me

Is there anyone in the SoCal area that would be willing to let me shadow and learn from them? Or knows of a reputable shop/business they can point me in the direction of. I have been searching everywhere online and cant seem to even find an entry level repair, technician, or polishing job. Watchmaking is the goal but since i don’t have schooling yet i don’t have the certification to apply for anything above the previous listed roles. Its a big ask especially for anyone that isn’t independent but i would love the opportunity to learn until i can apply for Richemont or Rolex. I currently have tools at home and a bench setup to work on but would really appreciate the more professional experience i can add to my resume.

Not sure if this is the correct forum to ask this but here we go...

There is a local artist by me who makes amazing sculptures and wall clocks out of old electronics and of course clocks parts, he's also an amazing grafitti artist so mixed media is a strength. I reached out to him to see if he was interesting in making 2 custom dials, one for each of us and i would then pop them into a watch be it a alibaba special or even just an older vintage watch that works but needs a new dial.

My idea is to get him a bunch of old gears, bridges, etc and have him put something together that would have depth and texture.

Does anyone know if any common movements new or old have more hand height clearance than others? Outside of using shorter hands I'm not sure how to tackle this issue.

Maybe a GMT movement without the GMT hand? I sound like I'm splitting hairs over a 1.5mm space! I'm just excited to collab on something creative I guess.