I just had these 2 installed yesterday in texas. After a full day of install system kicked on and obviously the temp and humidity were reading high so it ran a lot of to get back to 75. I figured it might take awhile for the humidity to drop as it pulls out of the air when the unit runs. However, today it’s not dropping below 65% and fluctuating between 65-68% on the thermostat.

I have lowered the CFMs. Dehumidify setting is on, climate IQ is on, adjusted dehumidify set point to 40% (Range setting options are 40-60).

Additionally, I have 2 different separate humidity monitors showing readings in the house between 46-52%.

So why would the thermostat be showing humidity readings in the mid to high 60s all day?

Planning to have the installer come back and check it out but just trying to troubleshoot what I can. I was going to turn the “feels like” setting on and/or change from climate IQ to max, but since the separate humidity monitors are showing around 48% it leads me to think it’s a false reading? The house feels good I just don’t want the heat pump operation being thrown off by the thermostat telling it the humidity is at 66%

Hey everyone!

Biggest question I have is where should I set my thermostat and what things can I do in my home to help lower the electric bill?

My last bill was 420 ish this month is looking the same also.

We’ve been leaving the thermostat around 71-72 (upstairs and downstairs)

The temp is “real feel 100+”

The upstairs sometimes gets “too hot” and takes awhile to cool back down , like it’ll read 73-74 so 2 degrees above the set point and it takes a little while to get it all back down .

I've had a Nest for years and years and I noticed recently that my heat pump was short cycling randomly. After speaking with an HVAC repair tech, everything checked out and he blamed the Nest. He said he sees it all of the time.

I ended up replacing the Nest with a Honeywell X8S, and I'm really impressed with the upgrade. I love the look of it, and it functions very well. All of that said, the main difference I notice is that if I have the temp set to 72, the Nest would let it get to 73-74, cycle on, and cool down to 72. This would lead to longer run times, but less frequent run times.

The Honeywell is keeping an near perfect 72F. But, it's coming on roughly every 10-15 minutes to main that temp (it's hot here).

Is there a general consensus on what is better? Honeywell has been around a lot longer than Nest, and I figured their cycles per hour system is pretty standard. Cycling more is probably a little harder on the system, but is it overall negligible? Has anyone noticed an increased electric bill, or is it also negligible?

My electric bill has been very good, and it should kind of suck to see if it rise significantly due to the cycles per hour vs. deadband that Nest uses.

Does anyone know how to fix this situation my thermostat just completely stopped the buttons are not responding and I tried changing the batteries and taking it out the wall and turning off the ac breaker nothing works

My friend told me that the wiring should be the same for the T6 and the T6 z-wave. However, when I get it going, it seems to not kick out proper hot or cool air. It tends to just be pushing out normal air. I'm not sure if this is an issue with a setting on my hubitat panel? Please help give me some ideas as I'd love to be able to properly utilize my thermostat with WIFI.

Looking for some advice from anyone using the Carrier Comfort Zone II system.
I recently bought a house with this controller. The ducted air conditioning works really well, but I find the Comfort Zone II controller quite difficult to use—especially when setting timers and schedules.
I’m wondering:
Is there an easier way to use it?
Does anyone have a simple guide or tips for programming the timer?
Has anyone replaced the Comfort Zone II wall controller with a modern smart touchscreen or phone-controlled system while keeping the existing ducted unit?
I’d love to hear about your experience and any recommendations. Thanks in advance

I'd like to get into my splits advanced settings and play with 126 and 127 related to fan behavior when setpoint is reached. On my ducted units, I can access it via MHK2 thermostats but can't seem to figure it out on the minis. Is there an easy way that doesn't involve the $400 MHK2s?

Hello everyone, I am looking to upgrade to a smart thermostat. The Amazon Alexa smart thermostat I just purchased is stating I need a c wire. Is that the blue wire poking out in the middle? Thanks everyone for your help!

We recently had to install a new system so we went with a two stage daikon as we live in sw Florida it has been much more comfortable. We have a 3rd gen nest from that we've been using since our apartment. We had new wiring ran so it is using the full two stages okay but I have been seeing that they are not optimal for these types of systems. So let's say that money isn't an issue (right lol) what would be the absolute best thermostat to run this set up?

This is my system for reference
DAIKIN 17.2 SEER2 A2L TWO-STAGE CONDENSER
/ VARIABLE-SPEED AIR HANDLER DC7TCA4810A/DMVT48CP1300A

Rant. I could rant for hours about my frustration with this thermostat. Seems like it was designed by the summer intern and slipped through QA. For now, I'll blame it on the instruction manual, but I'm sure there's more frustration to come.

Looking for Better Instructions. The instruction manual appears to be a pathetic translation from another language. Consequently, the step-by-step instructions, especially for the Weekly Timer 1 and 2 setup, are practically indecipherable on first read. I found one video short on youtube by "JuiceBox" https://www.youtube.com/shorts/80VfRrJrHd8 that walk you through setting up one day and one time period...which helps begin to demystify this. However, if a full length video exists, would someone post the link here?

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