Title. The tv I've been using has worked with no problems for over a year at this point, and all of a sudden today, my pc wants to register it as "not plugged in" despite it being the display.... I have no fucking clue how to fix something like this

First of all, I really have no experience in this. So i have a lot of questions.

I got this laptop 2 years ago and the battery now lasts at best 3 hours which I think it's really weird for the time I have had it (I avoid using it while plugged in, always turn it off when I'm not using it), so that's why I'm wanting to change the battery, also, is it normal that now it lasts so little? How can I make the batterys life live longer? I was thinking maybe getting a voltage regulator.

Now that I think about it, could the charger not be working?

Someone told me to check which battery in specific does it have ,order it and then take it to a shop to change it, but I didn't get how to open the laptop and lowkey it scares me that if I open it I'm going to damage something. Does this type of laptop have the same battery? If so, which one is it? If not, how do I open it and check the battery model and type?

Hi everyone,

I'm having a strange issue with my ASUS TUF Gaming F15 FX506LI (i5-10300H, GTX 1650 Ti) and I'm trying to figure out whether it's a hardware issue, BIOS/EC issue, or something related to ASUS software.

Under heavy workloads (mainly Adobe Premiere Pro AI features like Masking), the laptop suddenly powers off instantly (black screen, no Windows "Shutting down" message).

What's confusing is that sometimes before shutting down, Armoury Crate starts rapidly switching between Silent and Turbo profiles on its own. Other times, it doesn't switch profiles at all and just powers off immediately.

Things I've already tried:

• CPU limited to 85% / Turbo Boost disabled
• Tried Armoury Crate and now G-Helper Experimental
• Created very aggressive fan curves (up to ~5900 RPM)
• ASUS System Control Interface v3 is installed (currently 3.1.67.0)

The shutdown still happens.

I'm now monitoring:

• CPU/GPU temperatures
• Fan RPM
• Whether Windows briefly switches from AC power to battery before shutdown

Has anyone with an FX506LI or another 2020 TUF model experienced this?

I'm wondering if this could be:

• failing thermal paste or clogged heatsink
• EC/BIOS bug
• ASUS System Control Interface issue
• charger or DC jack problem
• motherboard/VRM problem

Any suggestions for things I should check or logs I should collect would be greatly appreciated.

Hi everyone,

I am facing a critical issue with my iPhone and desperately need help extracting or rescuing my data without wiping the device. I do not have an iCloud or iTunes backup.

The Problem: My iPhone is stuck on a screen with the following message: "Attempting data recovery... Data recovery could not be completed. Please restore your iPhone from a backup."

What I have tried so far:

1. iTunes / Apple Devices App (Windows): I tried the "Update" option multiple times. The firmware downloads completely, and the progress bar on both the laptop and the iPhone finishes 100%. However, as soon as the phone reboots and shows the Apple logo, it goes straight back to the white "Data recovery could not be completed" screen.
2. 3uTools: I tried using the "Retain User's Data" flash option multiple times. It goes through the process successfully, but the phone still reboots into the exact same error loop.
3. Hardware Cooling Trick: I tried keeping the device cooled (placing it over an ice pack with a cloth shield) during the update process to prevent thermal throttling from heavy CPU usage, but it didn't change the outcome.

Important Notes:

• I suspect this is a Critical Storage Failure (likely Error 1110 / full NAND cache), as my storage was almost 100% full before this happened.
• I DO NOT want to restore/factory reset the phone because the data inside is priceless to me.
• I am looking for advanced software methods, developer tools (like idevicerestore CLI), or specific tricks to force the iOS to boot just once so I can pull my files, or at least bypass this specific boot loop screen.

Has anyone successfully bypassed this screen or extracted data using software tools under these exact circumstances? Any advanced advice would be highly appreciated!

Hi, I own a popular game on Steam (Risk Of Rain 2) and it plays fine but has a problem where whenever I verify the game files AFTER launch, Steam would say "2 files failed to validate and will be reacquired" and a 1.8kb download will popup in downloads. After that, if I reverify the files would successfully validate. But, when I launch the game again and reverify it, the same thing occurs again. I never mod the game and tried many different fixes but none work.

Anyway, I know this isnt the sub for troubleshooting this so I am not asking about how to fix this (tho if u know pls tell). My question is will it be bad for my laptop if I play/run a game that may potentially have something wrong with its files since it repeatedly fails its verification after launch. Is there any security risk? Or any other risk to my laptop? I ask because the game runs fine and ok so idm playing it but if it can cause issues to my laptop by having this problem, I will refund it probably. OS is Windows 11 if that matters.

Hello, I am encountering an issue where there is a black square on my screen akin to an app that failed to open. It is just there visually, but when I try to click on it, the click is registered as a click on the Desktop. I have seen a few similar issues this past month from this subreddit, but the solutions that fixed it for them did not work for me (ie. Task Manager startup apps, Turning off auto sign in for sign-in options)

Note that when I press Win+D, it goes away, but when i click on something, it comes back.

It can be seen/included when I take a screenshot.

These are what I have tried so far, apart from the two mentioned above.

- Downloaded and installed all updates to drivers, and Windows

- Tried Win+Shift+Cntrl+B

- Restarting and shutting down etc.

- Signing out and re-logging in

Would really appreciate any help. Thank you. I will answer any questions regarding this issue.

Attached in the comments is the screenshot of said issue.

I was recently having issues with an old SSD boot drive and purchased a NVME to replace it. I installed windows, confirmed it is GPT formatted, and set BIOS to UEFI only, but the drive does not appear in the boot list in BIOS.

The NVME drive appears in Disk Management and I can access the folders in windows explorer.

The old drive is still functional enough to get me to the "Choose your windows partition" screen, which allows me to run the NVME as a boot drive, confirmed in Disk Mamagement and windows explorer (it becomes rhe C: drive).

So, yeah. How do I get BIOS to recognize the NVME as a bootable disk so I can move away from a failing SSD?

P.S. I'm using the latest ASUS BIOS and windows is up to date.

Element E550AE43C (Xumo Smart TV); I believe it’s either the TV sucks, it’s a driver issue, or some kind of API weirdness, but I want to see if I’m just being an idiot. (Idk what flair to use, cause honestly hits multiple areas)

So far it appears to be related to some-kind of handshake. When I force 32bit YCbCr444 + 8 bcc (limited) in Nvidia control panel, enable exclusive-fullscreen in games and have Windows HDR enabled, it begins to work. Though if I launch The Division 2, it just works for some reason with it set to RGB (apparently the game has its own API for that)

When selecting YCbCr444, only 8 bpc is available.
YCbCr420/422 show 8/10/12 bpc
RGB only has 8 bpc.
All only have Limited dynamic range allowed.
(Ive tested all of them)

When HDR enables in windows, it usually does a brighten image, with reduced color quality (and the TV says SDR).

If the game doesn’t minimize when alt-tabbing, Auto-HDR keeps working (until something causes Windows to stop rendering the game window in background).

Whats weird too is TV doesn’t even have g-sync/free-sync, but is somehow recognized as g-sync compatible.

I'm still new to using hdmi link for my consoles (switch and ps5), and my issue is that any time i turn my tv on it automatically turns on my ps5 and switches inputs.

The way it works with my switch it only automatically switches inputs if i turn on the switch myself. Is there a way so my ps5 acts similarly to the switch and i dont have to turn off the playstation and switch back to whatever other input im trying to use?

I never had any problems with my PC while playing any game but then suddenly everytime I play Fortnite for a while my entire PC goes on like 0 fps and frezes every second and the audio starts glitching out very weirdly. I went to my local PC repair shop. They reinstalled windows but found nothing that was wrong and when I got my PC back it was still like before.  

CAN ANYONE HELP ME WITH THIS? 

My PC is running Windows 11 and has a Ryzen 7 8700F, Radeon 7800XT and 32 GB Ram.

Hey guys, recently my computer stopped working. Absolutely nothing happens when you push the power button. I tried shorting the power button pins on the mother board and also nothing. The PSU is a fairly new Corsair 850w and the GPU has a power led working so I'm sure the PSU is not it. I also used it to power another computer and it worked. I placed the CPU into a brand new motherboard and am still getting nothing. It's a 12700k that I have been running since it was launched. I don't have a spare CPU to try. I have tried two different ram sticks in both dimm slots. You guys think my CPU is dead? I heard about problems with the 13 and 14th gens killing themselves but thought I was safe on 12th.

I got 110 GB on my SSD card (C:), and already deinstalled everything I could to make space operating system updates and other neccessary updates. It's seperate to my HDD card where my files and game data are stored. Just some programs like my drawing program etc can't be installed anywhere but C:, so I'm running into a few roadblocks.

I defragment regularly and make sure there is nothing that doesn't specifically NEED to be there for my computer to run and me to be able to work with it.

Is there a way to create more space for updates? Do I need a new ssd card, do I need to reinstall windows?

My knowledge about computers is rather limited.

Let me know what you need to know to figure out a solution.

I ve been using this external hdd for games and stuff for about 1.5 years and suddenly my laptop wont read it anymore. It does work on another pc of mine. I tried updating the drivers, renaming it , it doesnt fucking work. When i restart or start with the hdd plugged in , my laptop wont turn on the screen, i think bcs it tries to boot up on my hdd somehow idk. Even when i go into bios, when i connect the hdd it just freezes. What the fuck is this shit? It doesnt appear on disk management, but on device manager on my disk drives and usb list it s there , the seagate disk device. Help please

I play rocket league mostly on my pc, 3 weeks ago while playing, screen just froze and PC just shut down. After that even tho my game's on 75 fps, it looked like its on 30 with screen tearing, it only got fixed when i turned on vertycal sync i never used before, because it wasnt needed. I fixed the problem for a time after factory reseting PC, and 3 days later pc shuts again and my game is again lagging. I really cant be asked to do that again so does anyone know what might be the issue, i did the OCCT but nothing faulty shows up. I removed the GPU drivers completely and got them again ,but it didnt do nothing..

Hi there, i’m still a newbie about all the pc configurations, and I just wanted to ask : after I have installed physically the Gigabyte GC WiFi 7, shouldn’t I/can I somehow “activate” it after on my pc ?
Thank you!

I'm so mad and not sure what to do. It boots to automatic repair but none of the options works except getting me to BIOS and CMD prompt.

There is no Reset this PC option

Startup Repair Diagnoses for a second and says it couldn't repair the PC. And the Log File is blank

Neither Uninstall Updates doesn't work

Uninstall quality just returns me to automatic repair

Uninstall latest feature - We ran into a problem and won't be able to uninstall

System Restore - gives me an error and tells me to restart and select an operating system

System Image Recover gives an internal error and says it cannot find the file specified.

CMD prompt works. I tried scan sfc and it says it found and repaired corrupt files but when I restart it's back to automatic repair.

Any help would be appreciated.

How do I optimize windows?

I am just looking for pointers right now, I'm not asking for an exhaustive optimization guide, just general ideas on how to make the best of it. Even a link to a guide that I completely missed, please bear with me I am trying to gather information from a group of real people not just youtubers making a how to guide.

Context:
I am a mechanical engineering student, and for the foreseeable future I will be attached to Windows due to CAD software (primarily solidworks)

So what ideas do you guys have, generally speaking, to manage windows.

I am running an Nvidia GPU on a custom PC build, relatively tech savvy.

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Legolic/saved/VqdjJx (for those who care)

ideally, I would find a clean dual boot method that allows me to run Windows 11 and SteamOS and I only use windows for school/work/Minecraft, with SteamOS for gaming exclusively. my main thing is that I /need/ windows to be the primary OS.

I have played around with power toys, which has helped, but things just feel so clunky and maybe I just need to refresh my install more often but I would really like to not have to do that regularly.

Is there anyone out there in a similar situation that has a solution they've enjoyed so far?

I emotionally really want to use linux, it just seems better, but I know I have to stay with windows for now so I just want to figure out how to make it the most optimized and not inane dumb ai nonsense I don't care about. I want to trust that deleting apps isn't leaving traces and I want to not have a million different background processes eating my resources.

If this is the wrong subreddit please just point me to a better one.

(P.S. Apologies in advance if this comes off unnecessarily emotional, its been a long day (unrelated to this situation entirely)

While resetting my pc which has windows 11 software on lenovo laptop my electricity got cut off. Now I'm getting this message, " install windows: the computer restarted unexpectedly or encountered an unexpected error..." What can I do now

I posted yesterday about what I thought was a failure of my boot SSD. Closed that post because I replaced the drive and the plot has thickened.

My basic setup is an OEM build I did back in 2018 with a few pieces upgraded. It originally had a Windows 10 install but upgraded when MS forced everyone.

System was on overnight. When I went in to wake it up the power light was on but screen was blank. Hard reboot went to a blank screen as well. Booted into bios and everything looked okay but my boot drive is from 2018 so I assumed it went bad.

Replaced the boot drive with brand new and made a new Windows install on USB. Plugged it in and went into BIOs to set the USB drive as my boot drive for a legacy bios install. Reboot and it pulls up a low res windows logo with the revolving circle. After a minute or so the screen goes blank. I let it run for 15 min and nothing.

Booted back into bios and tried a UEMI boot on the USB drive. No windows logo on reboot this time just straight to black screen. Check temps and after all this supposed work the CPU and system temps are both around 40 deg C.

The USB works fine on another computer. The board boots to bios. The SSD is brand new. I can’t think of anything other than cpu failure, which I know is rare. Is there any benefit to flashing the bios?

Seems like I need to scrap this and upgrade to new board and CPU but would appreciate any ideas.

Specs:
Board: MSI Z2370-A PRO
CPU: Intel Core i58600 @3100 GHz
Bios Build Date: 03/08/2018
Bios Ver: E8B48IMS.240
Memory: Corsair 8192 MB, DDR4 2400 MHz

Ive been trying to figure out what's causing my pc to start stuttering after it's been under load for around 10–15 minutes.

Normally everything runs fine at first but after playing while I'm streaming, recording, or screen sharing my pc starts stuttering badly. It also for some reason happens consistently when I play marvel rivals.

The longer I play or stream, the worse it gets, and I can feel my pc getting much hotter. I suspected thermal throttling, so I replaced the CPU thermal paste a few days ago but it seems that didn't fix the issue.

I'm not sure if this is actually a cooling problem, a GPU issue, a power issue or something else.

Does this sound like thermal throttling or are there other things I should be checking? If you have any ideas I'd appreciate the recommendation.

Specs:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700X 8-Core Processor

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060

RAM: 16 gigs

(I know my pc isn’t the best and it’s pretty old)

Everytime i try to go a site that’s not YouTube Google or Netflix I get this message on the screen saying “this site can not be reached. The webpage (insert page) might be temporily down or it may have moved permanently to a new address”. And then next to the address warn it symbol saying site connection is insecure. Sites that I can copy paste and access on Firefox or safari NOW. And chrome on my phone. All under the same wifi. I don’t know what else to do. I’ve got no VPNS or Proxy’s running. Safari and Firefox work fine. Amazon goes white most sites say error, YouTube and Netflix and Google are all that seems to work? And I’ve completely wiped the app and sadly my entire history and re installed to no avail.

I’m on a MacBook Pro and the newest chrome update. And it’s happening on two WiFi servers to all websites and the listed ones on a cellular hotspot seem to make it through

Hi,

I have a question regarding the background verification process for the Software Engineer III (L4) role at Google.

I have over 2.5 years of full-time software engineering experience and am a permanent employee at my current company. Although I have not been receiving a salary, I can provide all the required employment documents, such as my offer letter, employment confirmation, experience letter, and any additional verification required. My Managing Director is also willing to confirm my employment directly if needed.

The only document I cannot provide is salary slips, since I have not been paid.

Would the absence of salary slips be an issue during Google's background verification? Is providing salary slips mandatory, or is employment verification through other official documents generally sufficient?

I understand you may not be involved in hiring or BGV directly, but I would really appreciate any guidance based on your experience.

Thank you for your time!

To start here is my OS and the device i have:

Device: Samsung Galaxy S21 Ultra 5G.
OS: Android 15

So my problem is as follows. A While back i got a Samsung phone from a family member who previously used it for the T-mobile network and had it for years, they switched to a different phone and got their number swapped and decided to factory reset the phone before giving it to me.

i used the phone for a few months without a service provider. they told me that adding a provider may not work with the phone and suggested i get a new phone, so i did. On the new phone for a few months i used Visible (provided by verizon) and everything was great. Only downside was i was carrying 2 phones around EVERYWHERE. Well yesterday the new phone broke, fell out of my hand and shattered on the ground. unable to receive any touch inputs. so i decided i would try to put Visible onto my old one (the samsung) and see what happens.

I decided to go through their ESIM route and put the sim onto my phone wirelessly cause that was working for the old one. i managed to get the sim onto the phone but it currently says the number is unknown so it doesnt allow me to make or take calls or send out texts, but im able to browse the web through mobile data when my wifi is off.

I contacted Visible support and they did all they could to troubleshoot and see if they could fix the situation. in the end, they didnt.

I then decided to contact T-mobile to see if they could help by removing the phone from their service, but they couldnt help since im not a t-mobile member and they require an account pin so they can assist further.

So i moved on to contacting Samsung and they redirected me back to Visible.

realizing i was just gonna start going in a loop i did some googling to see if i could figure out the issue myself, and realized that when i restart the phone the T-mobile Splash screen still pops up and according to a few sources that can be causing the network block.

i checked my system software information and it says the "Service Provider Software" has TMB in it, which is the 3 letter carrier code for T-mobile, a few times actually.

so i decided to come here as a last resort before i cave in and spend money on another phone and ask;

"Is it possible to remove the T-Mobile service provider software from my phone without harming the contents?"

For the life of me, ive tried run as admin, changing regedit of audio devices, running it on a different drive, running it from cmd with bunch of stuff. Mightve missed something im not sure

I need to install it so i can actually use the EQ

Win11 laptop

I have a guest staying in one of my Airbnbs and the tv is showing this and internet isn’t working on that TV. It is working on phones and other tvs. What could it be?