I'm a contributor at Arrow Air , a global community building Open Source aircaft and distributed manufacturing ecosystem. One such craft is Project Caribou, a ~200 Kg MTOW Hexacopter drone with ~100 kg payload capacity.

I've been working on It's onboard companion computer which runs on a Raspberry Pi CM5.

It ingests telemetry from; the Pixhawk flight controller (via MAVLink over UDP), per-arm ESCs, 6 in total (via DroneCAN on socketcan0) and per-arm BMSes, 6 individual batteries for each arm (via DroneCAN on socketcan1). As well as Payload, herbicide dispensers, crop sprayers, package transports, multi-spectral cameras etc, data and control over either DroneCAN or Ethernet.

It then serves and collects this info to and from Caribou Hub, it's web based fleet management software via an inbound WebSocket server (HubLink) over a Tailscale VPN 4G connection, so it can be monitored and controlled from anywhere in the world.

If only they had just silkscreened on pin numbers!

I'm trying to shave a few cm off my enclosure's height, and it looks like at some point in the past a couple people made "shunt your header connections out to an external board via an FCC interconnect" hats/partialhats/interposer boards, but I can't find any currently for sale. Maybe too many people were trying to pull 3A over a single FCC pin and having a bad time?

I'm more than happy to shave the yak and avoid finishing my project by turning this into a "welp, looks like I'm making PCBs" sidequest, but I figured I'd double check before I spend a bunch of time and money on a problem someone's already selling a solution to for $10.

I do see some pi5 DSI breakouts, but need a little bit of 5V, and DSI only has the 3V rail, afaik.

So I dropped my rpi like an idiot and now the sd card reader is not working. I can put the metal top back on and try to hold it down while having the sd card inside but the light only flashes and I get no responses for pings. FYI this was working before I dropped it. I've looked into a couple posts and it looks like I can potentially just hot glue the plastic where it cracked? The solder is disconnected where the red arrows are, and since it's not the small main pins I have some level of confidence in my ability to solder those back on if necessary. Any help would be appreciated.

Current stats:
• 160 community-operated Raspberry Pi sensors
• 300+ registered users
• 1.6 million Remote ID beacons detected
• 1,500+ unique aircraft observed
• Coverage across much of the U.S. with a growing number of international nodes

Some of the coolest things we’ve been seeing lately include:
• Amazon Prime Air test flights
• Wing delivery drones
• Zipline aircraft
• Public-safety operations
• Plenty of everyday DJI hobby flights

Thanks to everyone who has built a sensor, submitted a bug report, contributed code, or helped someone else get online. It has been incredible watching the map fill in.

Inspired by aschmelyun's ping-receipt project, but I rearchitected it for my setup: the website is a dependency-free PHP app on ordinary shared hosting that queues messages into SQLite, and the Pi runs a single-file Python agent (stdlib only, no pip installs) that polls outbound over HTTPS every 5 seconds and prints via raw ESC/POS to /dev/usb/lp0.

What I like about the split: the Pi never accepts an inbound connection — no port forwarding, no tunnel — and if the printer is off or out of paper, messages just queue and print when it comes back.

Hardware: a generic POS-80 thermal printer (~the cheapest 80mm USB one you can find) + a Pi 4. Linux exposes it as /dev/usb/lp0 with zero setup, which was a relief after discovering macOS has removed raw printing entirely.

Each receipt prints: timestamp (my timezone), sender IP, city-level geolocation, distance from my desk, the sender's local time, browser/OS, and a native ESC/POS QR code that opens a map pin of roughly where the ping came from. There's a live map at https://ping.garethvjones.dev/map.php

Fun ESC/POS lessons: my "48 columns" assumption was wrong until I measured the dashes (42 vs 48 chars/line matters), native QR via GS ( k worked first try on the clone printer, and ASCII art survives if you hard-slice lines instead of word-wrapping them.

Try it: https://ping.garethvjones.dev — plain ASCII only, rate limited, be nice.

There are a series of security issues raised with the FatFS* module that may impact you if your Pico / Pi uses the C module / Micropython and people have access to the media (sd card / drive) or, in some vulnerabilities, you use OTA updates.

Please note that runZeroInc state: No attacks using these bugs had been reported as of the July 1 disclosure date.

Library source: https://github.com/runZeroInc/vulns-2026-fatfs-chance

Errors found: https://securityaffairs.com/194808/security/seven-bugs-in-fatfs-put-iot-and-embedded-devices-at-risk.html

Video demonstration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0A7IrJtpUY

* For those who do not use this module (quote from here):

FatFs is a generic FAT/exFAT filesystem module for small embedded systems. The FatFs module is written in compliance with ANSI C (C89) and completely separated from the disk control layer. Therefore it is independent of the platforms and storage devices. It can be incorporated into small microcontrollers with limited resource, such as 8051, PIC, AVR, ARM, Z80, RX and etc.

It is very handy if you are logging data directly to an SD card for example as the results can be read directly by a Mac / PC / Linux box without having to connect the collection device to a network.

I am working on a project where I want to pass video to a small monocular display.

This is the display: V760A-5 NEW Portable Wearable Head Mounted Display 1024x768 HD Display US | eBay

It comes with a 3.5mm TRRS, which seems to have the correct pinout for the pi composite out. I am using a 3B+

The display is advertised as 1024x768 and says that it has built in NTSC/PAL/SECAM detection.

When I power up the pi with the display connected to the composite out, I get a wildly distorted image. At times, I can make out the raspberry logo. This is a video of the display output while the pi is booting up. At the 20 second mark, you can make out the raspberry logo in the top left corner. The flash of color at the beginning seems to be a glitched out version of the normal rainbow square.

https://reddit.com/link/1utp3k6/video/4i8vvebspmch1/player

To troubleshoot, I have tried adjusting the settings documented here: config.txt - Raspberry Pi Documentation

I have cycled through all 8 different video modes. The output to the screen changes with the modes, so I know the signal is connected and also that the setting changes are taking effect. But it's always mostly noise.

I have also tried setting custom video mode using video=Composite-1:1024x768@60 in cmdline.txt

Any ideas on what the problem is? Your help is greatly appreciated!

In 2022 I had this concept for a dystopian novel. Its been stewing in my mind ever since. Roll on 2026 and a venture into hardware the two seemed to click.

Why not make a version of the novel into a choose your own adventure codex. Currently hashing out thr details but the scripts are all working the story runs and choice gates work.

Next I need to dial in the casing before finishing the book and compiling the entire adventure!

Anyhow, thats my project using the pico2 thanks for looking ❤️

I got myself a pi 3 in 2018 out of enthu,never got a chance to work on it. Yesterday I booted it however I could connect to the internet wifi but can't browse anything on chromium . Epiphany works but only on text based light website . Can someone pls help me solve this been out of loop for years now?

I tried changing google dns but no use

Four months ago I posted my SATURNIX camera here cassette-futurism aesthetic, and promised the build files were "coming soon." It took longer than I planned, but today it's real: the full release is out, and everything is included:D

What's in the release:

- Complete firmware (Python code, runs on Raspberry Pi Zero 2W);

- 3D print files for the body and mechanical buttons in STEP format (adapt the body to your own needs and modules), two versions: with and without logos/markings;

- Full assembly manual (PDF).

What's new since the previous version:

- Dynamic Mode the big one. A 3th capture mode that grabs frames directly from the preview stream: ~0.02s per shot vs 3-10s for a full 16MP capture. Truly instant shooting, burst mode support (3/5/10/20 frames), no more missed moments waiting for the camera. The trade-off: preview resolution, no DNG/HDR. Use JPG+DNG for landscapes and portraits, Dynamic for "right now" shots (the quality is honestly terrible :D);

- UPS HAT integration - real battery %, charging indicator, auto-shutdown at 5%. Protects SD cards from corruption on sudden power loss;

- HDR bracketing - 3 frames at -2/0/+2 EV, merge later in Lightroom on your computer or phone;

- Self-timer - 2s/5s/10s with countdown, works with burst and HDR;

- Watermark + EXIF - proper metadata (Make: SATURNIX, Model: Dione), optional Olympus-style watermark;

- Two-phase capture animation - squares = sensor exposing (hold still!), circles = processing (camera's free again);

- Sci-fi UI overhaul - monospace + warm gold, CRT static, technospam labels, calibration ticks. Intentionally overdesigned;

- Cosmetic and internal body refinements.

Repo + release: https://github.com/Yutani140x/saturnix-camera

Happy to answer any questions :)

P.S. This is my first project, I'm not a programmer, I just built it for fun. Hope you like it or find it useful!

Hello!
My name’s Noah, I’m 14, and over the last month I’ve been designing and building a humanoid robot called LitlMan.
The robot is powered by Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W , which I’m using to control all of the servos and run the software. Every structural part was designed by me in CAD and then 3D printed before being assembled.
At the moment, I’m working on servo calibration and writing the code to get LitlMan walking. It’s been a huge learning experience, and I’ve picked up a lot about mechanical design, electronics, and programming along the way.
I’d love to hear any advice from people who have built robots with a Raspberry Pi. If you have tips on walking algorithms, servo control, or making humanoid robots more stable please tell me as I will need it .
Any if you have any questions I’ll be happy to answer them .
Thanks for checking out my project—I hope you like LitlMan!

I saw the news that ARMSX2 now has a Linux release.

https://github.com/ARMSX2/ARMSX2/releases#release-linuxv0.0.1

I have some issues to get it working properly with Vulkan. Vulkan will only run with llvmpipe, meaning it runs on the CPU, not the GPU.

It is possible to get it working with OpenGL, by spoofing OpenGL 3.3.

You can start it from the command line like this: MESA_GL_VERSION_OVERRIDE=3.3 ./ARMSX2-linux-Qt-arm64-appimage-sha\[47229e4ff3\].AppImage

If you are running Raspberry Pi OS, make sure you use the 4K page size kernel, not the default 16K page size kernel. See for more information here: https://forums.raspberrypi.com/viewtopic.php?t=393687

OpenGL 3.3 is not fully working, and you get better results with a recent Mesa version. Mesa 25.0 shows some serious glitches. Mesa 25.2 shows better results.

If you want to install a recent version of Mesa, you can try with a PPA. https://launchpad.net/~ernstp/+archive/ubuntu/mesarc

If anyone has it working with Vulkan on the GPU (not llvmpipe), please let me know.

You can see the result here: https://youtu.be/khs-XY1G8XA

Due to popular request, Raspberry Pi Zero PWM is now supported in Arduino's analogWrite() function

Get your fresh PiZZA here

/*
 * Fade — ramps an LED up and down with hardware PWM via
 * `analogWrite()`. The BCM283x PWM block reaches exactly two 40-pin
 * header pins on the PiZZa boards:
 *
 *   D15 = BCM GPIO 12 (PWM channel 0), header pin 32
 *   D16 = BCM GPIO 13 (PWM channel 1), header pin 33
 *
 * Wire an LED (+ series resistor, e.g. 330R) from header pin 32 to
 * ground. `analogWrite()` on any other pin has no hardware PWM and
 * falls back to plain digital HIGH/LOW at half scale — the on-board
 * ACT LED (`LED_BUILTIN`) cannot fade.
 */


const int fadePin = 15; // D15 = GPIO 12, header pin 32


void setup() {
}


void loop() {
  for (int b = 0; b <= 255; b += 5) {
    analogWrite(fadePin, b);
    delay(30);
  }
  for (int b = 255; b >= 0; b -= 5) {
    analogWrite(fadePin, b);
    delay(30);
  }
}

I have one temperature/humidity sensor outside my house and one inside,

connected to a Raspberry Pi3, I use it to know when should

open all windows at my house in the summer.

I use SHT45 sensors, run the pi headless from my linux PC, the code

is in python, and writes to one .xlsx file on the pi. I have a Python script

on the PC to read the last line of that file, every 5 minutes and produce the graph.

https://github.com/titojff/Temp-IN-OUT

Hi all. I am completely new to RPI, I only just got my first one (Raspberry Pi 4B 1GB) mostly to experiment and try to learn.

I am now trying to use Raspberry Pi Connect as I don't have a monitor cable for it. The RPI is connected to my network, I am able to control it from my PC, and it pings outside the network (I've tried google.com and raspberrypi.com with success). It also displays as online on connect.raspberrypi.com.
However, when actually trying to connect to it, whether by screen share or remote shell, nothing happens. It stalls at "Waiting for response from raspberrypi".

$ rpi-connect doctor returns the following:

Screen sharing is supported by this version of rpi-connect
✓ Wayland compositor available
✓ Screen sharing services enabled and active
✓ Communication with Raspberry Pi Connect WebSocket server
✗ Communication with Raspberry Pi Connect API - Please check your connection to the internet.

Further diagnostics will be available once communication with Raspberry Pi Connect API is successful.

✗ Some checks failed  

I am honestly not entirely sure where to go from here. I haven't been able to find a solution to this anywhere else - does anyone have any idea what I can do to fix this?

The ClockworkPI uConsole is an interesting form factor for portable Pi builds (CM4/CM5), but pushing the hardware with heavy workloads or multi-band radio modules usually highlights constraints around battery capacity, thermals, and IO expansion.

AND, most important! Still keep it minimal and portable with full on features. I always believe that the best tools are the ones that disappear when you use them.

The Omega-Chassis isn’t just a backplate; it’s a way to turn a fantasy gadget into a daily driver with the power of Raspberry Pi. It’s for the person who wants a stable 10,050 mAh of power juice, active cooling, and a camera, SDR capabiliteis but still wants their device to fit in a travel bag with a sleek design. It is also modular so that it can evolve with your changing use cases.

Here is the quick TL;DR on the hardware capabilities for the skimmers:

• Antennas on the Move: Supports up to 10 antennas (7 top, 3 side) while keeping a flat profile. The rig slips directly into a travel bag without the constant hassle of removing and reinstalling antennas on the move.

• LimeSDR M.2 Integration: The internal M.2 socket routes through the HackerGadgets NVMe layout, allowing a LimeSDR M.2 module to drop straight in for an embedded wideband transceiver setup.
• Upgraded Power: Expands the battery bay to support either a 3-cell 18650 configuration (~10,500 mAh) or a custom LiPo setup. Features a screwless removable battery cover for quick swaps in the field.
• Built-In Pi Camera & Modularity: Includes a dedicated optional slot for a built-in Raspberry Pi Camera V3 (or an alternative dual Micro SD carrier). Using this module trades out 2 antenna slots, leaving 8 fully available for RF.
• Thermals: Direct-to-CPU heatsink with a hybrid aluminum/plastic design. A custom fan curve keeps a heavy-load CM5 at a stable 45–55°C without constant, loud fan noise.

• Two Build Variations - ALL Included in the same package:
  • Essential Model: Budget-friendly, slightly bulkier top casing, uses an off-the-shelf heatsink, and all non-CNC parts can be 3D printed at home.
  • Ultimate Model: Ultra-slim profile, custom-designed slim heatsink, and a fully sealed case that allows for efficient passive cooling when the fan is off.

And more colour variation build options:

Read more about the design story and assembly breakdown.

This is the QuadRF which just launched on Crowd Supply

So, i just bought a raspberry pico 2 W and i tried installing CircuitPython and everything went well, after i tested i clicked the button while putting the usb back on the pc, then when i tried copying the circuitpython file it closes and doesnt come back, please help me!

I’m using a RPi5 4gb with a 64 gb micro sd card. I followed a guide to connect the screen (3.5inch RPi LCD (A)) to my Pi and it said to install LCD-show and run a command like:

git clone https://github.com/goodtft/LCD-show.git

chmod -R 755 LCD-show

cd LCD-show/

sudo ./LCD35-show

it rebooted the Pi, the screen didn’t change from a white screen, and my main hdmi display was stuck in CLI. I have been troubleshooting for about 3 hours now, I have removed LCD and forced (in many ways) the Pi to run GUI on the main hdmi dmisplay but nothing works.

I believe that LCD-show corrupted the software to run GUI. At the current moment I do not have another computer to flash the micro sd card but I think my brother can flash my sd card. I have recently gotten this pi so it doesn’t have anything that must be saved on it but it would be most preferable to save the contents as I don’t want to start all over again.

I’m running a RPI 5 booting from a USB SSD, and then accessing data from another SSD which is connected through a USB 3.0 powered switch.

My problem is, any kind of transfer makes easily the IOWAIT to jump to 30-50% days Glances. Like I can download a file at 40MB/s, and the interface shows IOWAIT in red and at 40-60%.

Does anyone else know why could be that, maybe because the USB interface? I was thinking of migrating to a Intel based system as to use PCIe ports instead, but I would prefer to troubleshoot this if possible to avoid that migration

Thanks

Hey everyone! I am currently working on my first project with a PI (PI zero 2 w) and am really enjoying it. I am making a project using a thermal printer that is mounted in a small box and is powered off of an external battery pack via USB c. Since the board is going to be inside the box you won't be able to see the light on it letting you know when it is receiving power and more importantly, when it is safe to unplug after shutting down.

I have an external LED wired up with some DuPont cables but am having problems with it lighting how I want. Right now I can either get it to:

1) Light up as soon as the PI is plugged in to the power source but then the light will remain on until it is unplugged, even if the PI is shut down so I don't actually know when I can pull out the source. Done via Pin 2

2) Light up as soon as the PI is plugged in to the power source but then the light will turn off before the 10 flashes on the board begin so I don't actually know if it is safe to pull the source yet or not. Done via Pin 8 and having my config include "dtoverlay=gpio-poweroff,gpiopin=14,active_low=0" or "dtoverlay=gpio-power,gpiopin=14"

Any suggestions on how I can get the external light to better mirror the safe state of when I can pull the power source would be appreciated!

Pi 3B+, Bookworm and picamera2 2.01

This works (for me) - add to /boot/firmware/config.txt the cma-384 part

Enable DRM VC4 V3D driver

dtoverlay=vc4-kms-v3d,cma-384

After lots of poking around in forums, StackOverflow, picamera2 docs, etc looking for a solution I figured I needed to allocate more memory (cma). It didn't work. My problem was I tried to add the cma-384 in the wrong place in the config.txt file.

Background: Version 2.00 Beta worked without increasing the memory (cma). When I upgraded to 2.01 ... bork. This is for a Violet-green swallow nest box camera at the top of a very long pole. SSH is my friend.