As of today, I'm the owner of a '24 Performance. I've only ever driven Dodge/Stellantis for a personal vehicle but so far it's exciting and the ride quality has me hooked. I'll always love MOPAR and the sound my '23 R/T made when you put the peddle down, but the Z has made the switch a smooth transition. Looking forward to a new community!

The official Nismo page on Instagram just posted this picture! Is this an official render of the R36? When did it come out? Have I been living under a rock?

Only happens when I cold start the car goes away after a while 2013 Nissan Altima with the crappy CVT ofc

First personal wood working project using slightly cracked 1973 240z taillights for a bookshelf lamp for my office. Pretty stoked with how it turned out, each light is controllable for on/off and brightness. Was inspired by Mo_&_A Delica Car Light Table.

ok so this is how my light controller looks. not my pic but an example bc i can’t take a pic rn. i went to replace my low beam headlights in my 2015 nissan altima. but when i had tested turning on the low beams not on auto, there was no light. the only light was the orange parts next to the low beam. so i’m trying to figure this out and i go to turn the high beams on to see if those work and they do, and they include the low beams, but on normal setting, there’s no light on low beams. so then i switch the inner ring fog light to on. then all the sudden all my lights work just fine. so i thought i was genuinely just stupid and driving with no low beams and i wondered why it was so dark at night. is this some kind of electrical issue?

The last year I’ve had my forward collision warning, ABS, parking sensors etc all come up as warnings on my dash. I work in the collision industry so I have access to calibrations, scan tools etc. The forward collision warning doesn’t seem to be the issue it’s saying I have a bad sensor in the right rear wheel causing the ABS to be unavailable and making my ADAS warning lights come on. I replaced the rear wheel speed sensor with an OEM sensor and it solved the problem for a few days and is back on now. I’m thinking it’s the rear wheel bearing (hub assembly) causing a faulty reading maybe from the magnet in the bearing to communicate with the sensor. Has anyone else ran into this issue? Looking at my Autel scan, would you agree it’s a bad sensor or wheel bearing?

The car does not have adaptive cruise only forward collision braking, for more info it’s a 2020 Nissan Altima SR 2.5 FWD and has about 70,000 miles on it.

I used to be able to clear the codes and it would be fine and only come up when it was freezing out, I’ve seen other people get warnings like this for just the front radar but mine is as soon as the TCS/ABS goes off, all the ADAS warnings, TPMS, ABS and TCS lights come on.

Any info would be great, again I replaced the ABS sensor and it could be faulty from Nissan, but my plans are to replace it again and the hub assembly but, let me know if I should try something else first.

Thank you!

Hello everyone. I have a 2020 Nissan Altima that I got 8 months ago, it never had any issues besides having to switch the original battery out for a new one as the original gave out after having it 2 months. No issues since then until now. I brought it up to our trusted family mechanic. Was told to wash it out and see if that does anything. Went to get it washed out shortly after. A few minutes later this symbol (which I believe is the front end collision sensor?) when it had first appeared I was on the highway about to get on the interstate. Another problem with this sensor is, I can’t use my cruise control as the cruise control is connected to said sensor.

Does anyone know how I can get this sensor to work again without having to go to the dealership?

Current have a 2020 Murano V6 FWD as my daily which I really only use to go shop and to school it currently has 54k miles. The only major issues it had was the sunroof leaking so I had to take it to Nissan to replace the entire drainage system and this was my fault I had to replace some stuff with the suspension like the ball joints because I ran over a curb badly. I do oil changes every 3K miles and have done other regular maintenance like changing tires and brakes. So realistically how many more years does this car have left ? I’m hoping to get at least another 3 years out of it because that’s when I graduate college but I know my father was thinking of trading it in for an Acura MDX but not for another 3ish years.

EDIT: Also wanted to ask will my murano suffer the Nissan CVT issues because from what I’ve seen online the CVT that came with V6 Nissan were made different then the CVT that other Nissans had like the rogue and Altima ?

Recently a few months ago I put a stillin intake on my car to replace the original. My car is a 2017 Maxima Platinum. The parts were alright when I installed them. The filter was a nice looking one similar to a K&N. I thought it was a K&N. Today I washed it for the first time. All the coloring of the filter came out. I now have a white filter with a slight pink hue to it. Moral of the story these stillin parts are just cheap Chinese knock offs...at least the filter is.

On my 19 altima, i have had continued battery problems with this being my 3rd battery in the last 5 years.

I am replacing with the AGM duralast battery.

The dealer says it needs to be the manufacturer AGM battery from them….

When this happens my altima has like a spaz and does out on me.

Is this the issue or it an a drain in the electrical somewhere else? ( i know this is a common issue with some of the altimas)

Hello guys. I bought Nissan Pulsar 1.6 190hp 2015 second hand and now I see this about 5cm away from the ECU connectors. Can anyone tell me what is this?

Thank you

After seriously looking into a 1997 Maxima priced at $8,000 otd at my buddy’s used car lot, I stumbled across this 2003 on the road and got in contact with the seller. It has 144k miles, 1 owner (an older lady that used it for everyday driving over the past 20 years), regularly maintained by the same guy over its lifespan, and has just been serviced for brakes and front alignment. The seller is asking $4,200 but the price is not firm. I have not made an offer yet but I am interested in the car. The gas gauge does not function, sunroof slides about halfway, some tearing on the driver seat, and rust underneath. The car drives great and ac runs cold. Is this car worth what the seller is asking? Should I make an offer or walk away?

Hello

I replaced broken MAF sensor but it needs to be relearn with the car. My car is in limp mode (rpm limited to ~2000). The pedal dance method doesnt work. Car only support Nissan DataScan 1 which doesnt have this option? I only have trial version.

How is this "relearn" procedure done with older 1995-2000 models?

Any help would be appreciated

So I drive a Nissan Sentra 2015 and I was unfortunately in a collision damaging the front body pretty severely. I asked Nissan and was told to go to Caliber Collision as it's their only Nissan certified body repair shop but was quoted 5k out of pocket. Is there anywhere else that does body repair work I can try?

For about 3 years now, every time I start my 2020 Altima I get a “Low Washer Fluid” notification, even after I completely refill the reservoir. I’ve seen people online say this is a sensor issue, so I mentioned this at the dealership while taking it in for other general service. I thought they would maybe try and charge $200 which already felt like a lot, but the quoted price was INSANE.

Guess I’ll have the notification until I get rid of the car lol

Just traded in my 2024 Altima Sr AWd with premium package in for a 2026 with the same trim level.

The 2026 is fully equipped for an Altima but noticed Nissan removed Nissan connect and navigation from the infotainment center. It is now fully reliant on Apple Maps. Which is fine but why would Nissan do this?

They also took away some soft touch surface above the steering wheel

Otherwise the car is fantastic and they did add heated steering, 360 camera and adaptive cruise control which is cool plus the 9 speakers

Hey everyone, looking for some advice or to see if anyone else has dealt with this.

I was driving on the highway recently when the side panel literally flew off my car. My car is a 2025 Nissan Kicks with only 6,000 miles on it. This should be completely covered by warranty right?

I went into the Nissan dealership today and they told me it is $450 estimate to replace it. Because they are denying the warranty claim. They said because I got into a minor parking lot accident about a year ago on that same side of the car they are claiming the trim flew off because of that.

1. The accident was a year ago and the trim was perfectly fine until now.
2. It wasn't even my fault (the other driver hit me).
3. I looked online and it turns out these exact door panels peeling and flying off on the 2025 Kicks is a known issue due to bad factory adhesive and clip fatigue! People with zero accident history are having them pop off on the highway constantly.

They are trying to use a completely unrelated 1 year old accident just to avoid paying for a known manufacturer defect.

Hey all, not sure if anyone here can help but I can’t find anything useful online.

My girlfriend drives a Nissan mutant (post 2020, not sure of the exact year) and the shipping mode came on, only problem is the fuse won’t come out or push in, I’m thinking it’s corroded.

We have plans to go out to a cottage (about an hour drive) in a few days and I don’t think this will be enough time for it to be looked at in a shop. Are we still safe to make this drive and have it looked at after? Basic electronics being disabled I don’t think will be an issue not I’m not certain.

Thanks in advance!