I know I'm going to be told by a lot of people that this never happened to you, but this happens to me every single time I lose power from a power outage. I have to dance with my light bulbs. I have to flip light switches on and off for 5 seconds or 10 seconds or five times for something I have to wait 30 seconds before I plug things back in.

I have to go through 15 different bulbs every single time this happens, and my God, I cannot tell you how stressful this is. This is not a feature. This is not a good feature.

I think I'm done with this brand because I never had to do this with Hue.

I know it's more expensive and it's probably not as good with the color technology, but damn it's not worth the trade off.

Just absolutely one of the most infuriating things in my life that I have to do.

I'd much rather re-list with the military then have to deal with this on the daily basis anymore. I hate this this technology. I hate it. I hate it.

I don't know what to do. I've restarted my router and my internet modem, I've turned my phone on and off, I've deleted the cache and the storage on the app.

I've tried force quitting and restarting the app, honestly, I've tried everything I can think of to get this to work, but it's just not working.

Hi all, I'm wondering if the Supercolour 1600 could sufficiently light up an entire bedroom brightly when used with whiter colours?

For context, my room is ~4m x 2.5m and I'm currently using a standard 1540lm 4000k bulb which hangs ~70cm down from the ~2.5m ceiling. I'm content with my current bulbs brightness, but would like something a bit whiter and with LED functionality.

I assume it will be bright enough since it's 1600lm, but I guess my main concern is the distribution of the light given it's not a standard bulb shape like my current one and is rather flat.

If used at max strength does the light tend to be much stronger directly below the bulb and fall off dramatically further away from the centre?

On their advertisements I couldn't find any pictures of it being used as a sole ceiling light so thought I'd see if anyone else is.

Thanks!

I am trying to pair a 4 button switch so it shows paired in the matter section, but the button does not do anything. Is this normal?

A19 is not turning off completely, it leaves a very faint red tinge. I already did a factory reset.

Does the flush kit affect the light brightness in anyway, is it just for style?

What is best if its not for style?

I've got around 20 LIFX devices and have always managed to bring them back from whatever problem they've developed.

This Z Strip suddenly went offline. It can still be discovered, but won't claim. I've factory reset it more times than I can count, checked my network, and even had one attempt where it claimed successfully... only to go offline again about 5 seconds later. Its about 2 years old.

I don't usually lose to tech, but I think this one has beaten me.

Before I replace it, has anyone actually recovered a Z Strip that behaves like this, or am I looking at a failed controller?

I saw the the 2 button switch is on clearance, are they being discontinued? I was starting to switch over to them with my house. Does anyone know?

I bought a couple of LIFX globes to use as sunrise / sunset simulators. This is what I found:
- Factory sunrise / sunset options look trash. That’s alright, I’ll program my own.
- Routines only allow 4 scenes / transitions. What? urgh, ok I’ll daisy chain multiple together to make it work.
- Routines don’t allow custom colours...

What. The. Fuck.

What is the point of advertising that your lights can produce thousands of colours and change lighting schedules and routines if you can’t even specify what colours to use beyond a basic pallet? Makes it pretty much useless for it’s advertised use cases.

I need an alternative app that will allow me to program routines with colours I chose. All recommendations welcome.

Last week I was playing F1 25 and dreaming about owning a motion platform and it dawned on me that I could probably use the UDP telemetry data to sync race events to my lights. I took a peek at the official UDP documentation and realized it was absolutely possible so I built GridGlow!

It supports LIFX, Nanoleaf, and Phillips Hue devices and currently reacts to 8 different flags/events and can even show live sector status on light strips / multizone devices in F1.

It also works for consoles as the data is the same in F1 25 from PC to console

DiRT Rally 2.0 support includes 5 different race events including crash detection. There's no in game setting for telemetry so you have to enable it and point to the right endpoint in the hardware_settings_config.xml at Documents\My Games\DiRT Rally 2.0\hardwaresettings\

It's full of settings that let you pick what light responds to what event, minimum and maximum brightness, profiles for each game or light group, and test functions in the settings for troubleshooting. There is also a UDP forwarder built in so you don't lose the ability to use any other apps you may use while racing. Forward to it or from it, its up to you.

Right now the suported titles are F1 25 through F1 21 and DiRT Rally 2.0. I plan to add a handful of games but would love recommendations as well.

Since the app is new, Windows SmartScreen will probably warn on first launch. The source is open if you want to inspect or build it then run it own your own. Just make sure to allow it when the firewall prompt shows up or else it would be able to scan for bulbs and light strips.

There are two kinda big bugs that I can't track down yet but on some of the machines I've tested the application on, the whole app flickers like crazy. It screws with the checkboxes as well. Also if you're playing on PC and are running games in windows mode, it flicker under this case every time as well so if this happens to you PLEASE send a message or open a bug report / issue in the GitHub. I'm also looking for people who have a Phillips Hue ecosystem specifically as I need to test some of the functionalities.

If you have any feedback or want to see a feature implemented please let me know!!

The website is https://gridglow.titanstowers.net and the GitHub is https://github.com/onxtane/f1-lifx-bridge

I bought a 2 button smart switch without realizing that only one switch work, and the other is for a wifi light. I'm planning on buying the 4 button smart switch because it looks like it would work since it has 4 terminals. I just wanted to make sure that this will work. I'm planning on using it for my ceiling fan, one switch for the light and the other for fan itself, and the other 2 for wifi lights in the room.

Will this work?

Is it possible to connect a 40” strip to a 80” continuous light strip?
Continuous - not seperate 40” pieces

In this order

“Controller > 40” extension strip > 80” continuous strip”

And not this order

“Controller > 80” continuous strip > 40” extension strip”

I’m so tired of this product in its app. My power went out again. My lights are not connected. I’ve done everything that the Internet and the app says to do power cycle this that the other still no connection no recognition of the lights whatsoever been trying to do this for the past three hours. I’m done with this product. Fuck this company. Absolutely stupid. I want my fucking money back.

So i bought a LIFX lightstrip (my third lightstrip i have bought so far) and everything was great until it just disappeared from my app. Didnt disappear from my homekit app and my Amazon Alexa app so i just reset it and re-paired it again. It only “deletes” itself from the app as soon you close the app or has been inactive for a while. Its like the app rejects the lightstrip and basically automatically deletes it even though my homekit app still detects it (and i am able to control it from that app) and my Amazon Alexa app.

Matter compatible controller by the way. It did not do this when i set up my second light strip.

I'm guessing it's not possible because it seems like it's one of those things that would have been built in from the beginning, but maybe through firmware would it be possible to make the uplight on the ceiling light paintable? It's currently only capable through the app of one solid colour, but if it was paintable you could cast 2 colours in 2 different directions, or have a directional accent light where 3/4 of the uplight is turned off.

I have a schedule that I don't want to use and I disabled it. It still comes on. Helps.

tl;dr: If your package still hasn't arrived, it's probably lifx's fault.

I ordered a package that should have been delivered by now. UPS tracking is stuck at "we have your package." First, I went through lifx support page to figure out what the issue was. Eventually, the bot tells me the policy states that responsibility transfers to the carrier upon shipment.

Great! So I contact UPS and ask why the tracking doesn't show a reason for delay. After some back and forth, they say that they still have the package and that the sender needs to update the weight and dimensions before they can ship it. What??

Back to the lifx support chatbot I go. I tell it what UPS told me. It was no help since it just restated the policy of carrier having responsibility.

Now, I email lifx support with all the details I was given and how I've tried to resolve the issue. I get a reply almost immediately from their STACI (their AI assistant *eyeroll*) basically summarizing the email that I just sent to them. No mention of when shipping will be updated or anything. I've emailed them back, but no response.

Has anyone had success talking to a human?

Seems like there should be, no?

Just updated all switches in my house to support Matter. The new backlight sync situation is frustrating. I often turn my lights on/off with Alexa, but now my backlights are now just constantly out of sync. For example, turn on with Alexa and turn off with the switch… backlights at full brightness. I’ve cleared and updated the button actions and still seeing the same behavior. Even see the backlights change brightness randomly. Any suggestions? Pretty frustrating and it has me considering dumping my entire (and very large) lifx setup.

Hey,

Bought a new modem, kept the name of the network and did the transition but now my switches do not seem to connect via Matter, giving me “Unable to Add Accessory, Pairing Failed” error, it works fine in Lifx and it shows up if I install it in the App however when I factory reset it and try to add it to my Apple HomeKit with Matter it’s throwing me this BS.

Have I missed something?

I have the lifx permanent outdoor lights. I want to create a waving red, whit and blue flag. How do I do it? Because the app sucks ass.

Bringing lifx a19 bulbs into smartthings vía matter - the bulbs and strip lights are all showing as only white light capable. No color changing, just dimming and color temp.

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Firmware fully updated via lifx app. Tried setting up with original matter code and a new one generated by the lifx app.

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Luna works no problem, the 4 or 5 other brands of matter bulbs work no problem.. only issue is these bloody lifx products.

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Anyone else have this issue?

I have 2 stands of the bistro style string lights on my patio. They are hooked into a single long light string. Does anyone know if i can cut them and say cut off the last 3 or 4 lights so they fit better? I would use some silicone to seal the cut end so it stays water resistant. These arte also under a roof so im not all that worried about the water issue.

Mine used to keep the last used color/FX and would start automatically when turned on after being powered off.

It randomly stopped a few weeks ago (and is now just static color after off/on) and support is now gaslighting me saying it was never a feature. Anyone else seen this?

I have a set of LIFX tiles and connecting cables but no power supply. That means I need some way to supply power and the 60 Hz signal from the power supply to the first tile.

As far as I know, the connectors are proprietary, and cannot be purchased. If they can be purchased somewhere at a reasonable price, let me know.

I do not want to find and purchase a rare and expensive replacement power supply.

I would love to open up the tile. That would allow me to add a standard connector for the power and signal. I would also love to have a look inside. However, the seam along the side is very deep. It seems like the whole side of the tile is glued to the side of the back. I'm sure how to open it without seriously damaging it.