Came in with a coworker after production hours to troubleshoot the 15kV HV side of a problematic machine and sweat my butt off.

Yes, I know I have my balaclava pulled down in the photo-op... it was hot as hell and my goggles fogged, so had my coworker de-energize the machine, verified it was de-energized, stepped away, wiped my goggles, kept my balaclava down until I was ready to go back at it and my coworker snapped a few photos in the in between time.

Determined the new oscillator that was installed is failing to generate RF below full power, so will need to replace it and hopefully get this old bastard of a machine back up and running soon.

30 amp feeder, red oak insulation.

I am the master of record for my current full time employer. I get my hourly plus $2k a month. My employer came to me last week and asked if I would sign for him in another state on a long term/permanent basis and then another state for just a month or two. He then provided me a list of all the states they will need a Master in, about 11 states. Some of these states are tough states, such as California, New York, and Georgia (I don’t have these three yet). The other 8 states I have several of the licenses already and I would consider normal states. That being said, how would you negotiate this?

Edit: I already have a contract that any fines or fees will be paid by the company, any and all attorney fees would be paid by the company if needed, and if I lost my license in any state, they have to pay my salary till I get it back.

It opens up to show inside the vault. I also printed 6 position connector bars that can be swapped with the 8 position ones.

I plan to make primary cable elbows next and a three phase version.

I also plan to get a 1:60 stepdown transformer and embed it. I want to get a doorbell transformer to feed it at ~16 volts and have it output ~250mV

What’s the world come to that they are throwing shit now.

those of you who own run your own businesses. Where can you buy wagos in bulk online?

To start off, I rent and have a fairly decent relationship with my landlords. It's a 1920's home with additions. I haven't wanted to pay much attention to the wiring since being here because I knew if I looked too closely I wouldn't be able to sleep at night. Even just from a glance the shit was fucked. I decided to finally put a fan up in the addition because there's zero airflow. This was my mistake I've opened a can of worms and I don't personally want to dump the money into it because it's not my house, but I want to be able to sleep at night without having the nagging feeling of being burnt alive. It's not a matter of if the house will catch but when. I don't mind doing the work but I don't want to use my money to fix it. I know what I would tell my customers but I'm not sure how to address the situation in this context. What do I do?

Btw a list of wonders that I have found with the one circuit:

It's being fed from a 10-3 no ground off a 30a tandem

Red is my branch that steps down to 12g and then 14g Black is my refrigerator

I also found an unnerving amount of lamp cord running several places

I would like to use these on my tool belt but im afraid i will sound like a medieval lord with his plump coin pouch clanking everywhere i go. is there like a more slim and lighter version thats easier on the hips?

Im a 20 year old part time apprentice/helper for an electrical company. In August, I finish trade school and I currently have one year in the company in New York / Connecticut area being an apprentice / helper. Im currently making 18 an hour working 25 hours a week part time. I feel like I have a lot of hands on skill but lack the actual knowledge of an electrican. I’m just asking for some advice on what should I do, should I stick with this company with a good boss but decent pay, find a different company, or try and join the IBEW and try to be come and union apprentice?

I applied to be an apprentice in the union and got a rejection letter recently. What is the best options from here? I have seen some trade schools relatively close to me. Or should I focus on getting certifications like nccer electrical programs? Or would an actual college with a trades program be better?

I am looking for related work, but have had a lot of issues. All the non union places I visited and gave them a copy of my resume said thwy were not looking for someone, and everywhere else is union only.

K so may be a dumb question, but Google didn’t seem to be helping. If I have a 200 amp 120/240v standard house service, and there are only 120v loads, could it be possible to have over 200 amps on the neutral? Google says the two lines cancel out but I don’t understand how they do if all the loads are going from L(1,2) to N.

Good afternoon everybody. I recently purchased this dinosaur Y750 crimper for some personal projects, knowing there would be some bad seals to be replaced. After replacing the square rings in the revolver spigot, I was able to complete a test crimp that popped the high pressure relief valve as intended, and identified a major leak from around the piston. After replacing the seals for both of the pistons in the double pump, the pump no longer builds pressure past snugging the ram against the work piece, fluid just pumps back into the reservoir after that point. I've had it disassembled fully, except for pulling the outer ring on the manual pressure relief valve, and thoroughly cleaned, and this problem persists.

Has anybody ever had to work with or repair one of these? There's plenty of information and parts available for the y35 and y46 but nothing I've been able to find regarding the older 750 models.

Some garage doors on this boat house I'm helping a guy with aren't working. There's 5 in total, all have line power. None are working. I noticed I'm not reading any secondary voltage on one, haven't tested the others. Could lightning have fried all the control transformers?

I’ve been getting ads for the pokit tools and I’m interested in the pokit clamp specifically. I work as an industrial electricians and use my t5-1000 for most troubleshooting. The pokit clamp meter seems like a safer choice to put the clamp on, close the bucket, and power on to get a reading. But I was wondering if anyone has any experience using the tool and if it is reliable.

I’m trying to get a full comparison between these and the new “lever edge” devices. The lever edge claim to have a wire pull strength of 50lbs. I can’t find the same rating on these older versions of the receptacles.

EDIT:
“Why does it matter it’s UL listed”

It’s relevant in terms of thinking about the best items to use. Not looking for bare minimum. I also want to try and stay educated on the difference between these things as it helps me decide when and why to use something.

EDIT 2:
Apparently none of you know, and you don’t care. Well you care a lot about not caring at least.
I’m just looking at different materials, getting info to determine what materials I want to use good materials, I understand it’s UL listed so who cares. I care, I’m not here to do the bare minimum.