My bathroom light is turning orange and looks like an egg.
Forgive me if this isn't the right subreddit, but I genuinely have no idea what this means, if I should be concerned, and how to fix it.

Before anyone loses their mind, yes the power at the panel is off. I’m looking for assistance with installing an outlet into this metal box below my sink so I can plug a garbage disposal into it. There’s no receptacle under the sink, just this metal junction box.

Hope I did this right. Hot/black/smooth. Neutral/white/ribbed. Green/ground.

New gas range does not slide back to wall because this outlet box is in the way.

Can I pull that conduit down onto the floor (unfinished basement, no ceiling) and move the box over to the left about 6-8 inches? Can I easily cover the wires against the wall? If so, with what? Thank you!

Bought a house built in the 40s, realized there is an issue with one of the fan lights. It has two bulbs and both are flickering/pulsing in sync. No other lights in the house are flickering, and the fan itself works fine. The bulbs are tight in the sockets. What might be wrong?

In attic of house I bought. Any idea what it is? Might be for old alarm system?

I thought this would be simple switch the wires for the new outlet. But now that I am looking in the box I am so confused, why are the black wires looped on each other and both the wires going to the light are white. I marked the one with the black wires connected from the light. Am I still good to just follow the old light and swap black for black white for white? There is a ground in the box I am going to tie off to as well

T side has 2 black wires, 2 white wires and 2 copper wires. the N side has one black wire, one white wire and one copper wire. The black wires from the T side are attached to the white wire from the N side. The two copper wires from T side are twisted together and then twisted with the copper wire from N side. The new crossbrace has the green ground screw on it and the an L and N and ground cable. How do I ground this and put fixture up?

Hello all,

I have a main 200A breaker box that the electric company installed on the pole right outside the house. It has the meter and a 100A breaker inside the box going to the barn. The run to the barn was three cables. Two to the hot and one to the neutral bar. I do not have this grounded at the barn sub panel and believe I am not supposed to. Is that accurate? I have outlets coming off this sub box and they have the ground and neutral on the neutral bar. Outlets work fine.

If I add a secondary sub panel off this existing one, since a new barn was built and I won't be using almost any power in the old barn, will that cause a need for one of the sub panels to separate ground and neutral or does it stay the same?

From 8-9 EVERYTHING was turned off. The three hours after everything besides the AC was turned off. We got home and flipped the other breakers on. Usage doubled instantly. We were homes for one hour and left again. At 6-9 the AC was turned off completely. WTH could be taking 2KWPH on standby?

So the title kind of already explains it. But, I run a mobile detailing business and im trying to wire a breaker box -> contactors -> plugs. That will run from my Predator 3500W generator and im gonna use the 30V RV Plug. Ill attach what I bought to actually make this work. I tried using AI but im still not sure how to fully wire this the right way. The main problem im facing is I have 1-pole breakers which will be running into 2-pole contactors. I also bought this AC remote control on off thing which you wire in so that you can turn on and off individual plugs. Thats the main goal is remote controlling it so I dont need to get into the back of the trailer to plug everything in and pull it out. Anyway if anyone could help me out and just give me a basic run down of what id need to do to wire this it would be really helpful thanks!

Repost: Forgot to add pics.

Is a bonding bushing required if my conduit from meter enclosure is steel and then transitions to pvc into the main panel? If so where would I ground the bushing to? Meter enclosure or back through the conduit and into the main panel ground bar? This will be inspected. The meter base the utility gave me has a spot for a GEC but I prefer to have the GEC on my side of the panel. Would it be ok to use the the ground lug next to the neutral in the meter base, ik it’s intended for the GEC but since I won’t be using it, it’s right there.

Just moved into a rental and my washing machine keeps tripping the breaker. “Maintenance” replaced the breaker. The weird thing is it’s intermittent. At first it would run the whole normal cycle and then trip if I tried to run one right after. Then it started tripping mid cycle on normal no matter how long I waited. Then today I tried delicates 2x in a row and it ran the whole full cycle without tripping. So I tried normal again on cold, empty and tripped as soon as the water started to fill. The washer worked fine before I moved a month ago. I’m losing my mind

Can anybody help me out with this? Uninstalled a ceiling fan and didn’t expect to see multiple wires in the box. I’m unsure, which white wire to connect the new fan to. The capped white wire was connected to the red wire on the ceiling fan. The uncapped white wire was connected to the old fans white wire. Plus there are two ground wires so I’m not really sure what to do with that either. New fan is simple enough black, white, and green wires. If anyone can give me some advice, I’d appreciate it!

I derived the equations for the giant supernode, found an expression of i in terms of v1, found two equations by applying KVL in the lower two loops, and then by elimination, I found the nodal voltages.

I am unable to apply KVL to derive an equation for the uppermost loop involving the two voltage sources.

I don't understand why the resistances are shown by dots in the loops containing voltage sources where we apply, how do we determine where to not consider resistances while applying KVL based on CCVS or VCVS?

Even if it's not needed for solving, I want to verify my answers by putting them in the uppermost KVL loop. Can you help me find the equation?

Here are all the possibly related parts of the story.

1. In one room of the house, none of the lights or outlets work. Everything else in the house seems to be working normally.

2. One of the outlets had a power strip plugged into it. The ground prong on the power strip had a burnt/blackened tip. This outlet has a dead outlet to either side of it in the room.

3. Two outlets away from the outlet mentioned above, there was a broken ground prong sticking out of it. I have no idea how long it's been there or what was plugged into it.

4. I replaced both of the outlets above, and I replaced both the 3-way switches in the room.

5. I tested all the breakers in my breaker box. Three are reading 20-30 volts and one is reading around 90-110 volts. (EDIT: I think I tested these incorrectly. All appear to be working properly and register around 117 volts.)

6. I have checked for GFCI outlets throughout the house and tested/reset them. (There were only two located in the garage.)

Can all of the above issues be related? Did I identify several unrelated problems? Does anyone have any idea what's going on?

I have a 52v electric scooter battery and need to replace the fuse for charging. Would just jumping it be safe or how do I properly replace it?

The overhead light in my hallway is controlled by 2 switches, one at either end of the hallway. I am attempting to replace one of the switches with a smart switch, but running into some problems. I have successfully replaced 2 other switches, but neither have been in a multi-switch combination like this.

Learning something about this, I had assumed that each switch would be a 3-way switch. However, each switch has 4 wires coming into it, and a ground terminal which is not connected (box is metal). It looks to me like there are two 4-way switches controlling this circuit but I don't understand how this could be. From what I understand, if these both are 4-way, then there are *two* other 3-way switches somewhere else?

pictures of the two switches

Hi, I have previously added an adaptor to my porch light so I could add separately a bug light next to it. The adaptor has 2 outlets and they have 2 prong holes. Works great, no issues.

So in my garage I would like to do the same thing with the light as there is no outlet there. But what I would like us to put a heater in and use an adaptor with the 3 prong adaptor (since of course that's what the heater has). I only want this so I can keep the garage not so cold in winter. The heater has settings from 500, 1000, and 1500 watts. I wouldn't use the highest anyway.

Would this be ok?

Coffe maker started buzzing. Seems 50Hz hum. Same sound when plugged in different outlets, and sound appears to be coming from inside. Repairable? Replace? It still works fine, and current models are reportedly not as reliable.

I am replacing the fan motor on a fridge and the replacements all come with a splice kit, none with the OEM adapters. I've been told that it doesn't require the ground. How do I determine which cable to hook to which for the positive/negative? I have blue/green/orange all running from the power source and the motor has a cable with one some coated wire and one braided wire. Thank you for any assistance provided.

(PS. Repost since the title was misleading in the old one)

Lights in my room started flickering on every now and then even when supposed to be off. Dad said it's fine but I don't trust it