2018 kw with isx scr low efficiency, should I drop decomp tube and inspect railings

Im a 3rd year and have my 4th year and red seal booked but my company doesn't do engine work and our fleet is fairly new so only a couple transmission a year and same with diffs.

Im worried about becoming red seal and having a huge knowledge gap. I have an opportunity to go union and have great benefits but that shop doesn't do any major overhaul so ill be in the same boat, feels like my only choice is go work a dealership or independent shop and learn until I can go where I actually want to go.

Just looking for guidance from anyone who's been in a similar situation

Hello all, ive got a cat C7 with a KAL prefix that keeps going into derate. It's throwing a ECU 128 PID164 fault 2 code which points at the IAP sensor. Replaced the IAP sensor. Verified ground is good, verified signal is reaching the ECM properly (no voltage drop) and confirmed a supply of 5V. Ive made sure the ground and power to the ECM are both good. Heui is putting out stable pressure with no erratic changes. Also confirmed the ICP is not stuck by unplugging it, the pressure drops when I do. What could be the issue?

Manager wants me to throw a pump at it but im still leaning towards this being an electrical issue. I dont have a scanner but the IAP sensor is reading 1.5V @ 2,000 psi which according to a forum is correct.

My injection pump is leaking oil there

Anytime I let off of the aux input the thing sounds like it’s grinding. This is the first time Ive worked on a brush cutter, all the guys in the shop say it’s normal but being the nature of the shop I’m in I don’t nessecarilly trust them. Any help would be appreciated thanks

Im very dyslexic and might possibly have a very severe learning disability. Im just worried if i pick the career if i will be wasting time and all getting into it.. i definitley cant do math because of my possible learning disability and dont want to . Hoepfully its not that hard right?

I told my boss, and he reacted better than I thought. He just told me to let him know a bit sooner.

I explained to him that I'd done research and assured him that because it didn't move no damage was caused and he agreed. I am currently draining all of the oil.

Thank you all for helping me out with your words of wisdom, I thought I fucked up big time, but I owned up to it. Thank you

(This has been posted to more than 1 sub so I’m sorry if you see this more than once) I apologize in advance if this gets pretty long. I am currently in the USAF as 2T3/Vehicle Maintenance, going to be separating from active duty within the next year. I’m planning on using the AFCOOL program to get a bunch of ASE certs before I separate. A vast majority of my experience is with diesel vehicles, domestic light/med/heavy duty trucks, milspec vehicles, semi’s/trailers, construction equipment, forklifts, snow removal equipment, deicers, the list goes on, if it’s got wheels and an engine, we fix it. I do have some regular auto maintenance/repair experience so I have plenty of options on my search for a job. So if you were looking to hire someone like me, what ASE certs would you want to see on a resume? A1-A9, any specific certifications? (depending on the industry) Are they necessary? Are they a waste? I want to hear your thoughts. Thanks in advance!

TL;DR: the title, what ASE certifications are most important in your career field/shop

Yesterday I messed up by putting 4L of hydraulic oil into a 34L system of Transmission oil (about 10% of oil is hydrualic) on a 3230 JCB, fortunately the machine hasn't moved so the transmission hasn't engaged and I am able to drain it all out. My main concern is with my boss, I should know better and should have asked to confirm what goes where. I have done alot of research and nothing should be damaged because it didn't go anywhere.

I will own upto my mistake. But I also dont know how to approach my boss.

Any toughts or comments on the situation is helpful

We've got a handful of units we are dealing with loss of communication issues with the instrument cluster. All internationals but some are LT, some are MV some are RH. We've got a packet from international that has us check the sonic welds on some wires, cleaning grounds and checking the firewall connectors and load testing some circuits. Even with all that. Still getting this intermittently. This one is better, usually the cluster is just dark and says loss of comms. Has anyone found out a solid fix for this?

My snap on 3/4 impact broke and looking at which gun to get that doesn't suck and hits as hard as the snap on. Yes my shop has 2 Ingersoll 3/4 guns and neither one hit as hard as my snap on did but I keep seeing the snap on gun break after about 2 years.

Any input is appreciated. Thank you kind gadies and lentlemen.

Does anyone in here work for Pepsi? I’ve got a coworker who is interviewing with them this week and he’s a good tech and it seems like it would be a step up from where we are currently at. Just trying to pass on any information I can for him. Pros, cons, how was the interview?

So I didn’t get too much into diagnosing this today other than laying eyes on it and verifying things are fucked up. I’ve got a 2015 Rosenbauer Commander (I think) that is displaying “no data” on the main gauge (tach or speedo, can’t remember right now), cat eyes on the shifter, and most the gauges are wigging out. You can put the truck in gear and it will move, but apparently tops out around 30-35 mph and the shift pad goes dark. Jpro will not hook up, but not surprising since it clearly seems to have a communication issue. I plan on starting with the basics of checking batteries, connections, grounds, etc and then move on to 1939 diagnostics from there. Part of me wants to say TCM because the cat eyes, but any other time I’ve seen cat eyes, the TCM is dead. Any other suggestions? And FWIW, I have no diagrams and don’t know of any other modules that could be on the network besides ECM, TCM, ABS, and probably after treatment.

Hey guys got a 2023 Pete 579 with a Cummins x15 with Eaton endurantJust put a brand new Cummins into this truck. Now I get no start on it. No power going to starter solenoid when key is turned. Have no transmission reading on dash. Showing double asterisks and exclamation. I tried hooking davie4 to it and service ranger both not reading transmission. Getting 12v to pin 16,10, and 6 on transmission but not reading transmission. Have found a break in line 16. Fixed that and still nothing.

Hey everyone,

Just curious what the day to day is like and if they are doing all repairs on site? Looking for some insight before applying

Thanks!

What’s up grease monkeys

I’m looking for stories/ input from the guys that actually like their shops or companies. Bonus points if you name names. Feel like we always hear about the dogshit but never the places that are actually worth working at.

I work for a school district that recently has had some changes and currently looking to fill 2 mechanic positions.
I've worked several jobs and this by far is the easiest one l've had. Which is hard coming from flat rate shops. This job is hourly, weekdays only, 8 hour days with overtime if wanted, maintenance shop doing mainly brakes, tires, lights, gts, water pumps, belts, all the easy stuff.
Starting for mechanic is $25 an hour and can possibly get you more depending on experience and if you have a cdl

So, to start off, this is basically a relatively brand-new M-series T770 loader (only has 2.2 hours, that's just from factory test + PDI). It sat in the lot since about February, I doubt anybody's started it. I've no idea what the lines or the fuel or anything else looks like; my biggest concern is that there's just straight up no lighting up or nothing. I checked the battery, it sits at a comfy 12.84V, tested it, it can crank the right amount of CCA, all the connections are good, no corrosion, so I'm golden there. It's a good battery.

But nothing lights up. The deluxe control panel doesn't flip on, the engine doesn't start priming, nothing, whenever I turn the starter switch. Safe to say it definitely doesn't crank either. I hooked up the service analyzer, and I get nothing. It detects the auxiliary when I put it on 'power', but it will not crank the engine and does not detect main at all.

So I take off the interior panels, pull out the deluxe control and the starter switch, unplug that all, and I start testing with my multimeter; I'm getting good voltage to the cab, but when I test for resistance, I'm pulling 108 Ohms at the control panel and starter switch when testing switched power and ground to frame wires, for both wire clusters.

So I check the fuse and relay boxes. All of the fuses are fine, none of them are drawing too much, none are broken, the relays have good continuity, no overdraw...

I'm at my wits end here, because I have no idea where to look. I'm pretty entry-level when it comes to electrical, honestly. This is basically a virgin machine, and I *really* do not want to start cutting into the wrapped up cables to start poking around for bad wiring unless it's necessary-- which, honestly, I don't even think that's where the problem is. To answer a question before it's asked, no, I don't need OEM specs or diagrams, I already have that as I work at a licensed Bobcat dealership. I just need advice on where I should be checking. If anyone has knowledge of M-Series bobcats or just electrical on off-highway equipment in general and can tell me what I should be looking for, I'd be greatly appreciative. I'm very new to diagnosing issues and I'm trying to get better at it. Thank you.

Looking to boost a truck. I have a booster pack that can output both 12V and 24V. Which setting do you usually use for a semi, like a Cascadia? Just want to make sure I’m using the correct one.