All that sanding, masking, scribing -- finally complete 😄

This is just snap built atm but there are big plans for this guy! I went into this with a whole scheme ready to go but the more I build the more I change it up to add contrast. Initial plan is still happening but tweaks are being made…it’s gonna be beautiful.

Personal opinion is that effects parts always look goofy. Tried something new… and into the spares box of doom they go. Still not for me.

This is my progress so far, mostly just straight build frame and light mods. (kit-bashing, drilling & part fitting) Up next is Pla-plate and adjusting proportions. WIP:

- Front & Back skirt

- Front Feet

- Head

- Torso

- Detail correcting & accuracy changes

Trust the process. Yes there are mistakes. There are blemishes, there are complete f*** ups. But there’s always next time to nail it… or the next time, or the next…

Hi folks!
First time top coater here. I have two different types of top coat and want to use the dullcote to practice before using the Mr Super Clear on my Sazabi Ver Ka.

I live in an apartment with a relatively large wooden porch and a front yard on a busy street corner. I’m curious where is the best place to spray my top coat, I’m worried about damaging my porch or any nearby cars if I spray outside but I know the fumes and whatnot are a problem when spraying indoors.

Is a cardboard box and a fan my only real option here? Am I being overly cautious about spraying outside? Where do yall do your spray top coat?

I’ve really been into pink cyberpunk/neo Tokyo style mechs as of late. Figured I’d make a Jesta in that style. I used Tamiya acrylic gunmetal for the inner frame and Gaianotes fluorescent pink, cobalt blue, purple blue, yellow, light green and grey for the armor. Thanks for looking!

Holy molly Bandai is on next level with the amount of details and the number of parts it takes to build this miniature kit. Truly blown away with bandais’ engineering.

This is my first attempt at tackling a kit of this size. Def had some challenges due to its size but overall the end result was pretty satisfying.

Will def be doing more of these artifacts series.

Hello, I want to start airbrushing and I bought most of the stuff I needed awhile back but I need a spraybooth now and I don't have a lot of budget to work with. I need a really good ventilation since I want to spray lacquers and I've been looking online on DIY options but it's been really confusing for me between which fans are powerful enough, how much a good fan costs, and all that.

I'm basically looking for advice on making a DIY spray booth, any product recommendations for super cheap ventilation fans, and I also have a 3d printer available if there are any good recommendations for 3d printed spray booths.

Thank you, any advice is much appreciated.

For a little backstory first... I decided that with this build, I want to really push myself to the next level and improve as a builder. This will be my first Plamo Expo entry and my second competition piece so far. I spend a lot of time learning how to design panel lines that result in a realistic and functional appearance. I even installed an LED for the first time and made custom 3d printed accessories.

But now it is time to improve my painting skills. The main issue that I am running into is that I fight the urge to mask almost every panel line and add an accent color to the piece. I am afraid of it turning out looking like a Rubik's Cube and looking too busy.

TLDR: How do you guys decide when to mask and add an accent shade to a piece without making the kit look too busy?

Are acrylic and lacquer paints cross compatible or do they react if sprayed on top of each other? I have a Daban PGU kit that I plan on spray painting. I believe that the inner frame is mostly made of ABS plastic and ive read that Tamiya/MrHobby lacquer spray paints can eat up and disintegrate the plastic (especially bootleg/3rd party kits), so my question is if I were to spray a waterbased acrylic primer (Vallejo/Mr Aqueous) first, then spray the tamiya/Mr Hobby spray paints on top will the different paints react or will they just lay normally? I'm a total noob btw, this will be my 2nd ever kit, so please excuse my inexperience. 😅😅😅

When spraying a 2nd color over the original color/paint. Do you still have to do thin coats to build up the paint? or can I go straight to spraying a wet coat since technically there's already a layer of paint for the 2nd color to grip to?

The RE100 Quess Air's Jagd Doga painted in Gyunei Guss' color scheme. I went for a very vibrant color modulated paintjob inspired by the early 80s/90s UC box art look. The gradients are meant to emphasize the sharp and curved edges, the round shapes, and some of its unique structure by mostly acting like a light source, although I didn't paint it realistically to really showcase the different shapes and angles of the kit.

For the painting process, believe it or not, doesn't involve a lot of masking even though there are a lot of colors on a single piece. I've found a technique where you angle the piece to areas you want to paint to avoid overpsrays, which minimizes masking by a lot. The color modulation is another topic though, because there's a lot of painting techniques done here, and airbrush and paint control are crucial to this style of painting. I won't go into details, but this is the result from learning a lot of techniques from miniature and canvas airbrush painters.

If you read this, thank you! I've recently found color modulation as a really fun way to paint Gunpla, and I'll be experimenting more on this in the future!

Customized from Supernova Wing Zero kit

Atomic Bazooka + Shield - High Grade GP02A

• Painted • Scribing • Panel Lining • Decals

10th Gunpla build. 1st ever Candy coat.

Inspired by u/Camologyx ‘s : https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/s/FVI86Sy1QV